Member
I am not sure I am going to be able to control the urge to install them.
Have you checked RealOEM?
BMW CCA Member
What's the idea behind fender venting? Never seen that before.
1993 E36 325is
2003 E46 325iT
SpeedHunters feature: http://www.speedhunters.com/2018/04/...t-dtm-tribute/
APEX feature: https://www.apexraceparts.com/blog/m...-arc-8-wheels/
Member
It's to reduce drag - to give the air in the fender a place to exit easily.
You can see it more clearly in this pic
Untitled by Chris Mayfield, on Flickr
Member
Awesome thread man! Really excited to see those ITB's get installed
Member
Upper shock mounts arrived this week and got them all installed. RTAB reinforcement plates arrived as well. When installing found both pockets had cracks (not present a few months ago when I did all the bushings). Got the cracks welded up and the reinforcement plates in today. Also finished up the fender venting (bondo, paint and clear).
Member
Word came out from DIYAUTOTUNE that the PNP Megasquirt wont be ready until late June (initially thought it would be ready April). This is a bit of a "setback" from me as I had planned to do the throttle bodies and the MS at the same time to prevent dyno tuning twice. Well, I am too impatient to wait until June to install the ITBs, so I will be installing them after my April event and tuning them on my current ECU (Miller WAR) with MAF. Once MS is ready, I will install that and re-tune.
I like this approach from the standpoint that it gives me good data on what each modification is doing for the car. Doing them both at once would mask what did what (although I would still have preferred to do it that way for simplicity and dyno time).
Hope to get them all installed and been the dyno by April 21st - ish.
Member
Just finished a NASA weekend at NOLA Motorsport Park. New to the car from the last event was:
1. Hood vents
2. Radiator cowl
3. Fender vents
4. Wing supports
5. Rear suspension reinforced
I had a few issues on Saturday with the motor sputtering. I thought it was pulling timing but it turned out to be water in the spark plug sockets (from washing the car). Pulled and cleaned all the plugs and it ran great the rest of Saturday. Ended up 3rd in TT3.
The "good" news is that the aero/drag mods seemed to actually have worked. This is my home track and I have in excess of 1000 laps on this track. This weekend, I was 2.8MPH faster hitting the breaking zone going in to T1 that I have ever been before. I suspect that the sum of the front aero mods actually resulted in a net savings in drag. Prior to the installation of the radiator cowl, a good bit of air was getting under the car. Now it all goes through the radiator and out the vents. Also, I can that the fender vents are moving allot of air as the vents were covered in dust that I think would have previously been spattered on the fender lining.
Member
Car is looking fierce! Nice work.
Member
Started the ITB install today.
Going to take this slow and do some other things while I have the manifold off.
1. Euro oil filter housing with aftermarket oil cooler setup.
2. Sent injectors off to be cleaned/rebuilt
3. Sent valve cover to powder coater. Had a very small leak in valve cover gasket, so changing that
4. Removing the AC plate off the block (have to remove crank pulley to get it done)
Plan to take about a week to get it all done and done right.
Also got great news this week. Got a call from DIYAUTOTUNE and they want to use my car as a test platform for the new MS PNP for E36. They want to tune the car for the ITBs at their facility. So, I will be towing her to Atlanta sometime in early June for them to knock that out. Also going to plan a trip to Atlanta Motorsports Park while I am there for a good shakedown of the tune. Pretty stoked about these guys taking care of her. I know the tune will be right and safe.
Member
Those looks amazing! Pretty awesome about the turning as well!
Member
You've been keeping secrets from me!!Originally Posted by darbyfam
Member
You can remove the AC compressor bracket without removing the crank pulley, unbolt everything you can unbolt, then smash it with a 5lb mini sledge and it should crack in the right places. (ask me how I know)
Member
The pulley is so easy to remove, but still not worth the risk of damaging something else.
Member
Take lots of pictures of the itb-install, please.
Z3 & E36 RamAir systems, send private message for more information.
Member
Once I get ready to fully install them, I will probably do a step-by-step. The instructions are pretty lacking in details. Such as how to deal with the idle air inlet, etc.Take lots of pictures of the itb-install, please.
Member
If you're going to take off the crank pulley, you can get crank pulley bolts from a nonAC car which are shorter so you can take off the A/C pulley leaving only the main pulley. If you try to use the stock bolts without the AC pulley, they'll be too long and interfere.
Member
I just put lock washers on the bolts that were the thickness of the AC pulley.
Turned out to be a pretty easy job.
Member
These are exactly things that I am interested to hear! Thanks!
Z3 & E36 RamAir systems, send private message for more information.
Member
As part of the ITB install, I decided to utilize the S54 oil filter housing I had and put an oil cooler on the car. While installing the cooler, I found some "issues" when using the S54/Euro housing an an S5X motor.
The S54 housing has a 12mm outlet that is utilized for vanos on the S5X motor. The outlet on the S54/Euro is 12mm while the banjo/banjo bolt on the S5X is a 14mm. There are a few ways to deal with this:
(1) Drill out the housing and put in a 14mm insert of helicoil it.
(2) Use the conversion bolt found at VAC and others which has a 14mm shoulder for the banjo and 12mm threads. (https://store.vacmotorsports.com/vac...2mm-p1482.aspx)
(3) Use the "custom" vanos line available from Achilles Motorsport (http://www.achillesmotorsports.com/V...11-am-vlch.htm) This does a few things that I liked:
(1) Gives you a 12mm banjo/banjo bolt at one end. This allows you to keep the larger shoulder on the oil filter housing without any modifications
(2) Replaces the vanos line with a better solution which also allows you to rebuild the vanos line track-side if needed.
Here you can see how modifying the housing not only reduces that shoulder for sealing, it also severely decreases the amount of metal and leads to cracks
Mine cracked when trying to torque down the banjo bolt.
This is the stock S54/Euro inlet with the larger shoulder and much more metal around the threads
This shows the 14mm bolt against the 12mm threads (like you didn't know what that looked like)
I bought a new housing and the Achilles banjo package so I, hopefully, won't experience issues again.
Last edited by darbyfam; 04-12-2017 at 01:04 PM.
Member
This might be in your interest: https://www.facebook.com/magnusracin...type=3&theater
Z3 & E36 RamAir systems, send private message for more information.
Member
Made a bit more progress on the ITB install today. Valve cover came back from powder coater, injectors came back from WitchHunter. Re-re-installed the oil filter housing (this is housing #3 because I shouldn't be trusted to work alone), got the oil cooler all mounted and plumbed, mocked up the vacuum system. I just need to install the vacuum system tomorrow and, theoretically, she should be ready to start. All appendages crossed.
Member
Had a few little hiccups on the first start. Oil cooler was leaking a tiny bit, just needed an O right and proper torque. Played with the setup on the vacuum quite a bit to get it "right" but in the end, it started right up. Still have to play with the linkage and get is synched up. It started right up despite no MAF, idle air, or inlet air temp input.
http://vid208.photobucket.com/albums...pstnvpop3p.mp4
Member
Got it pretty much buttoned up today. Had an issue with idle and found that the TPS mount was adjustable. Just had to get that in the right place and all is well.
Member
Bad day at the dyno.
I will put some good news first: We were able to tune an extra 25WHP/30TQ while on the dyno.
Bad news is the peak was down 100HP/100TQ.
First thing I will say is it's NOT the ITBs killing power. At my last NASA event, the car started giving me issues on Saturday. Dug around and found some water in the #6 spark plug "cup" and figured that was it (new vent hoods, car washed, you get the idea). Dried that all up and it ran wonderful. Set a personal best on Saturday afternoon. Sunday morning I go to go out for the first session and she is running bad again. Sounds like a Subaru and just not making any power. I figured it was water again and I didn't feel like fixing it that day (I am the local TT Director and don't always have time to wrench on my car). I ran a lap in each session to make sure the class got contingency and put her in the trailer. When I started installing the ITBs, I went ahead and changed all the plugs. I found some slight condensation in #6 again and just assumed that was my problem. Apparently it wasn't.
Today on the dyno, the car showed the same symptoms. I pulled the coil packs and none have condensation/water. The car idles fine, revs pretty good, just isn't making any power. After doing some thinking and using my "phone a friend" options, I am thinking it's the cam position sensor or crank position sensor. Will be looking into both tomorrow.
The good news is that as we were playing with the tune, etc, we were able to make more power with the ITBs from run 1 to run ????. Also, the car is also making more TQ than HP. Today's dynos mimic the old 279/279 as far as the curve, where the peak power is and where the peak torque is, it's just down across the board. I expect, once I fix whatever issue this is, it will make some nice gains over the previous tune.
And I don't think the ITBs are the issue.
Anyone have thoughts in crank/cam positions sensor??
Member
Scan it for codes? sensors should throw something.
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