How much does it cost you to maintain your E36 M3?

[Ace328]

Im looking into buying a E36 M3 and just wondering what price points i should be looking at. If something major breaks and stuff and just pretty much the adverage price people pay for stuff. Thanks

[shogun]

Question: Are you a DIYer and make everything DIY, or do you have to pay a shop to do all the work? That makes a big difference. In addition the spare parts prices in Australia are much higher than for example in the U.S.
I am doing all repair and maintenance work DIY, so only the parts cost I have to count.
I have my M3 now 6 years, bought it with abt. 30 k miles. Parts I repaired/replaced:
both front shocks as they were leaking
broken glovebox button replaced
glovebox cover re-glued
engine oil and filter
trans fluid and filter
repaired my alternator with parts from another used alternator
4 new tires
microfilter
1 foglight replaced due to broken glass
replaced leaking power steering hoses DIY
some vacuum hoses replaced in engine bay
hanging headliner DIY will be done next month
brake pads replaced, rotors I bought for stock till they need to be replaced
giubo and center bearing replaced
exhaust rubber hangers replaced
sound absorbing mat removed partially above the giubo, as it was touching the driveshaft
airfilter replaced
outer door handle gaskets replaced
Thermostat and thermostat housing replaced incl. coolant
fuel filter replaced, also the leaking fuel line around fuel filter
passenger seat occupancy sensor mat repaired
That is basically all I remember except some smaller cosmetic stuff

Free of charge done by BMW:
AIR BAGS:SIDE/WINDOW recall/defect on 1998 BMW M3 Build Years/Makes/Models: 1997 - 1999 BMW M3 - reprogramming control module.

Voluntary Emissions Recall Campaign No. 99E-A01 - UPDATED Crankshaft Position/RPM Sensor should be BMW part# 12 14 1 709 616, made by OEM Siemens. BMW e36 e39 z3 Adapter Wire for Updated Position Sensor should be 12514592703. BMW Sensors Problems and Faults Voluntary Emissions Recall Campaign No. 99E-A01
Model: E36 – BMW 323i and BMW 328i with M52 engine produced June 1995 - December 1998 E36-BMW M3 with S52 engine produced January 1996 – December 1998. Complaint: Vehicles that have a faulty crankshaft position sensor have had a Voluntary Emission-Recall Campaign. This is to check the illumination of the check engine lamp as well as fault code 83 – Crankshaft position sensor, and fault code 244 – Crankshaft segment timing. Remedy: The crankshaft position sensor should be replaced with the same sensor used on a M52TU engine. An adaptor harness must also be installed so that it has a 12V operating voltage instead of the 5 volts currently supplied by the DME.

So in my case that was not much and only material cost, but I did not drive it a lot, abt. 25 k miles in these years.And I do not drive it hard, no drifting or racing, no use in winter, as I have some other cars, just a fun car.

[MisterM52]

I am a DIY Guy, mostly the only things that go wrong with these motors as any BMW motors is... Usually Nothing. Just some Sensors, as Crank/CAM/O2, Maybe the double Vanos needing new seals, Some parts need cleaning as ICV, MAF, You are better overhauling your cooling system (radiators, water pump) thats the number one killer for these engines dying or getting a bad HG/overheat etc. You may require some interior work as saggy headliner/door cards, etc, all which can be done, some may be subjected to suspension work or may just be fine, watch out for rust under neath, maybe some soldering in the trunk, where there is always some broken wires, the trunk harness.

the myth about the ubber expense of owning a bmw is just that, a myth created into reality by some shops and how much some people will try to charge you for parts.

If you can buy it, for a good price, and can do most stuff DIY (have a sect of screw drivers, sockets, hammer and what not) then you can do it. No big expenses.

[Ace328]

For the most part i will be DIY'ing most of the stuff... if it gets hard i might need some help from others (dad etc) but i don't think i will be going to a mechanic for a simple job i can do myself. I also want to learn more about the car and cars in general.

[MisterM52]

Look, if you can change your own oil, change your own wheels, understand how a car works, take you time every now and then, top up your radiator, comfortable taking off panels and insides after looking at guides on how to do things, can follow simple instructions then you can own a BMW. Its a Drivers Car... the E36 in particular has a very easy and nice as in enjoyable learning curve to it. Make sure its a EVO as in S50B32 motor. Just rebuild the vanos with seals worth ~40. Then redo some of your cooling system, your crank and cam sensors may also be nice to replace, do a bit of maintenance in the engine bay and change out al fluids (trans,motor and radiator) check for broken hoses here and there in the intake and you are done. Trust me there is nothing to it. The biggest issue you may come across would be insurance if you are at a young age like under 20.

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your username suggests you already are familiar or have in mind the 328i, if so, then the m3 is not that far off. there is nothing special about owning a particular sub model, most of the work is the same, some parts may be a bit more expensive, but how often do you need that.

[B320i]

Prices in Australia are obviously nearly double the U.S., as with practically everything else (whether fuel, groceries, house prices etc) and are based on wages we earn vs yours and the exchange...

In any case, LABOUR costs are what cost a bomb, not so much the parts.
When the dollar was more favourable, you could get stuff from the U.S. even cheaper and that made it worthwhile. Not so much anymore, although some Aussie retailers for Euro parts are *still* gouging, owing to our higher cost base.

If you can DIY some of the work, you are already ahead most of the way in working on the BMW. Big things to factor in ASAP are the Cooling System and exchanging fluid in transmission and differential once every 50,000km. After that its pretty routine, I think, not too much to worry about. Look after any care, and it will look after you. BMW's are the same, but just don't appreciate neglect.
Suspension work may be next on the agenda, depending on the vehicle's history.

That said, in the eastern states you have the annual road-worthy tests, so the fact the car has it should be a starting point (or a cause for concern...).

[MisterM52]

Great Points, By B320i, Basically Your Cooling System & Fluid (I Use the Type A Coolant Mixed with a little distilled Water, Works Great), Engine Oil & filter, Transmission Oil and filter, Differential Oil and few Electrical Gremlins here and there, over all if its well taken care of, you will be fine. Tell us when you got the car.

Prices in Australia are obviously nearly double the U.S., as with practically everything else (whether fuel, groceries, house prices etc) and are based on wages we earn vs yours and the exchange...

In any case, LABOUR costs are what cost a bomb, not so much the parts.
When the dollar was more favourable, you could get stuff from the U.S. even cheaper and that made it worthwhile. Not so much anymore, although some Aussie retailers for Euro parts are *still* gouging, owing to our higher cost base.

If you can DIY some of the work, you are already ahead most of the way in working on the BMW. Big things to factor in ASAP are the Cooling System and exchanging fluid in transmission and differential once every 50,000km. After that its pretty routine, I think, not too much to worry about. Look after any care, and it will look after you. BMW's are the same, but just don't appreciate neglect.
Suspension work may be next on the agenda, depending on the vehicle's history.

That said, in the eastern states you have the annual road-worthy tests, so the fact the car has it should be a starting point (or a cause for concern...).

If you think Australia is bad, I will swap places (including cars) with you in a heartbeat right about now, if I could.

Prices and Labor here are still ridiculous, the 20 year old M3 here costs 3x times the US price, and there is a bmw old boys network full of the usual kiwi suspects, mr. tall poppy, mr high and mighty, mr. I am in denial, and mr. ripoff, imagine paying $500 for used M3 bumpers? Yep, they charge it because they CAN. And if you got anything going, they want it for free. Never had that problem with anyone else, phew, cant await for my exit.

[scooper]

$500 is not completely unreasonable if it's an OE bumper in good shape and repainted to your particular color with high quality base coats and clear coats. Basically, the amount you should budget depends on how much of the work you can do yourself.

[tmswell]

All of the points above are great.

Rule of thumb for cost on these: More than most, less than some

[downandout]

1-2k a year lol

[MptyWall3t]

Unless already done, plan on doing a lot of bushings. Ask me how I found out.

[somebody5788]

Purchased 2 years ago not running. Restored it to like new mechanically for about $3000. Only thing that's wrong right now is the catalytic converter which I have other plans that will leave that as no longer a worry. As of now though I don't expect it will need anything for a while. Preventative maintenance goes such a long way.

[tmswell]

42

[tynwarrior]

If you only fix what needs to be, it wont be much annually.

The problem is these damn forums, they suck you into the cars. Next thing you know youre spending fortune on new rims, fancy engine mounts, led taillights. Thats when shit gets expensive.

[B320i]

If you only fix what needs to be, it wont be much annually.

The problem is these damn forums, they suck you into the cars. Next thing you know youre spending fortune on new rims, fancy engine mounts, led taillights. Thats when shit gets expensive.

Got that right. Thankfully old fogies (at heart, like me) dislike visual appeal and go for functionality first... That said, the OE Pioneer speakers in the rear have developed "fart" syndrome...

[Mike WW]

To date, with just under 100K in my ownership and about 215K total, my costs are about 4.3 cents per mile for maintenance and repairs. That will take a jump soon as I've got a new radiator ready to go in and it's almost due for O2 sensors too, but the tires are new, which is one of the big costs. $.043 or under a nickle a mile. That's cheap. Granted I do everything myself and look for good value pricing, but it's still cheap.

[O neill m3]

Where would I get a full timing chain kit for a s50b32

[Stephen Max]

Where would I get a full timing chain kit for a s50b32

https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E36-M3...ing_Chain_Kit/

[somebody5788]

https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E36-M3...ing_Chain_Kit/

S50B32 not S50B30, he has dual vanos, that kit is for a single vanos.

[Stephen Max]

S50B32 not S50B30, he has dual vanos, that kit is for a single vanos.

Ah! Thank you. My apologies to all.

[NoRon]

If you only fix what needs to be, it wont be much annually.

The problem is these damn forums, they suck you into the cars. Next thing you know youre spending fortune on new rims, fancy engine mounts, led taillights. Thats when shit gets expensive.

Haha, isn't that the truth... enter the black hole at your own risk