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Thread: Leather Seat Restoration

  1. #26
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    This is what I used. Cheap, dense, disposable foam makeup sponges. Just wish they were a little larger.

    Last edited by zubbie; 03-03-2016 at 08:12 AM.

  2. #27
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    Let me apologize in advance for the one crappy picture below, but work has been super busy, blah, blah, blah...

    As you can see I put the cushion back in the car. The final product looks pretty close to the earlier pics I posted. I am very pleased with the results; as you can see in the before pics, the cushion was borderline trash. However also as you can see below, the color does not match. I thought I had done my due diligence in researching the right color, but now I am not so sure.

    Before I mess with the rest of the seats (which are all in fantastic shape) I need to verify. The color is close and maybe once the rest of the seats are cleaned, the colors will be even closer. BTW I ended up using about 8 oz of dye on the cushion.
    Rick
    <><

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  3. #28
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    I recently re-dyed my entire interior using the Leatherique system. The overall look is stellar, but I have a major issue. I CAREFULLY followed their steps. Now completed, I am able to rub the dye if I rub my finger over the leather with any pressure. I am guessing there was a prep issue. Anyone else have this issue? OP- your seats look great!
    IMG_2066.jpgIMG_2063.jpgIMG_2064.jpgIMG_2068.jpgIMG_2070.jpg

  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by precisionmike1 View Post
    I recently re-dyed my entire interior using the Leatherique system. The overall look is stellar, but I have a major issue. I CAREFULLY followed their steps. Now completed, I am able to rub the dye if I rub my finger over the leather with any pressure. I am guessing there was a prep issue. Anyone else have this issue? OP- your seats look great!
    XIMG_2063.jpgIMG_2064.jpgIMG_2068.jpgIMG_2070.jpg
    did you use the prep agent in the leatherique kit? It's the step just before dyeing. Sounds to me like the surface had residue on it before dyeing. The prep agent is the one which contains rubbing alcohol. I.e removes all oils and residue.

    Also so many thin coats are better than thick ones.

    Come to think of it I had noticed a similar issue with the leatherique dye I experimented with. (Bought a steering wheel kit). I had chocked it up to poor mixing on my part as the leatherique instructions said not to shake and had separated out badly. I attempted to mix it by hand but it still looked thick to me. Ended up using the other dye I bought which could be shaken and had the consistency of bottled ink. No peeling.

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by zubbie View Post
    did you use the prep agent in the leatherique kit? It's the step just before dyeing. Sounds to me like the surface had residue on it before dyeing. The prep agent is the one which contains rubbing alcohol. I.e removes all oils and residue.

    Also so many thin coats are better than thick ones.

    Come to think of it I had noticed a similar issue with the leatherique dye I experimented with. (Bought a steering wheel kit). I had chocked it up to poor mixing on my part as the leatherique instructions said not to shake and had separated out badly. I attempted to mix it by hand but it still looked thick to me. Ended up using the other dye I bought which could be shaken and had the consistency of bottled ink. No peeling.
    I did use their prep kit. I started with the rejuvenator, pristine clean, prep, and several VERY thin layers with an airbrush. I followed their instructions to the t. I have done many dye project in the past, never with this brand and always with impeccable results. I will redo the whole interior (regrettably) , perhaps with a different brand. Very disappointing.

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by precisionmike1 View Post
    I did use their prep kit. I started with the rejuvenator, pristine clean, prep, and several VERY thin layers with an airbrush. I followed their instructions to the t. I have done many dye project in the past, never with this brand and always with impeccable results. I will redo the whole interior (regrettably) , perhaps with a different brand. Very disappointing.
    bizarre. I wouldn't think the leatherique stuff to be substandard. Too many positive reviews out there. I might email them with your issue and see if they offer any advice. Could also be a top coat applied to your leather by the PO. Who knows

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by zubbie View Post
    bizarre. I wouldn't think the leatherique stuff to be substandard. Too many positive reviews out there. I might email them with your issue and see if they offer any advice. Could also be a top coat applied to your leather by the PO. Who knows
    Yes, odd. I've used the Leatherique process without any issues too for much of my leather restoration in my M5.
    My M Tech II steering wheel was in rough shape and I did the full restore on the steering wheel using the Leatherique process and the dye hasn't warn off yet.

    I think it's a matter of the prep work to really lay down a good foundation for the leather dye.

    Before (but after using the Rejunvenator Oil (RO) and Pristine Clean (PC)):


    Filled in holes with polyurethane adhesive, light sanding with the prep solution:




    Finally, light coats with an airbrush (but without the Leatherique polish):





    Sorry for the thread jack OP...
    Last edited by chunkster; 03-05-2016 at 02:16 PM.
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  8. #33
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    I also read great things about their products. I will contact them, and see their advice.

  9. #34
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    Rick, I remember that issue ...I believe the seats change color over time. Pull a panel that has never seen sunlight, see if there is a difference. But, it can still change without sunlight. Sorry that yours is that noticeable.

    That seems like a lot of dye. It's been a while since I've done a re-dye, so maybe my memory is just off.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Precisionmike- that interior is beautiful. I'm kinda partial to light grey / dove

  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by mgoods50 View Post
    Rick, I remember that issue ...I believe the seats change color over time. Pull a panel that has never seen sunlight, see if there is a difference. But, it can still change without sunlight. Sorry that yours is that noticeable.

    That seems like a lot of dye. It's been a while since I've done a re-dye, so maybe my memory is just off.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Precisionmike- that interior is beautiful. I'm kinda partial to light grey / dove
    Thank you. Still a ton of work to do

  11. #36
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    Your interior looks amazing!! I also have a Dove Grey interior on my 1995 540i/6. I want to also dye everything to give it that perfect new car look, as you know it tends to pick up stains and some of the plastic yellows over the years. A simple interior dye would make my car look great. Let us know what you figure out, and which product you end up going with next time.

    Quote Originally Posted by precisionmike1 View Post
    I recently re-dyed my entire interior using the Leatherique system. The overall look is stellar, but I have a major issue. I CAREFULLY followed their steps. Now completed, I am able to rub the dye if I rub my finger over the leather with any pressure. I am guessing there was a prep issue. Anyone else have this issue? OP- your seats look great!
    IMG_2066.jpgIMG_2063.jpgIMG_2064.jpgIMG_2068.jpgIMG_2070.jpg
    2016 Cadillac ATS-V/// Vector Blue Metallic/Black Recaros
    2013 X5 35d Platinum Grey Metallic/Black Nevada Leather
    2003 Audi A8L Silver/Gray
    1998 BMW 740iL Black/Parchment



  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by googone20 View Post
    Your interior looks amazing!! I also have a Dove Grey interior on my 1995 540i/6. I want to also dye everything to give it that perfect new car look, as you know it tends to pick up stains and some of the plastic yellows over the years. A simple interior dye would make my car look great. Let us know what you figure out, and which product you end up going with next time.
    Thanks for the compliments! I actually re-dyed anything that was light grey, including the plastic (which was yellow)
    I spoke to Leatherique today and they asked me to send some pics. I will keep you posted.

  13. #38
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    Wow the steering wheel is awesome! My 4Runner could use that bad.

  14. #39
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    Not to threadjack- but this is kinda related to the topic...

    That sounds like thick coats, or still wet...considering you live in negative humidity, (I lived in litchfield park for about amyear) neither of these really make sense. This is something I would expect in Texas , not Arizona . Is it pulling / rolling up all the way to the base / leather? Or is it I certain coat that is coming up? Regardless Leatherique will get you straightened out. They are good people with a top notch product.let us know what they say please.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Now that I think about it, lacking humidity might be your enemy here.

  15. #40
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    I am not sure about the humidity. When I was spraying (airbrush) it was about 65-80 degrees and not too dry. I was out of town on business all last week. I will be emails pics to Leatherique tomorrow. I will keep you posted.

  16. #41
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    Just wondering, but where did you buy the kit from ?

  17. #42
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    Direct from Leatherique.

    I hope this is not considered hi-jacking a thread. If so, my bad. Here are a couple of pics of my issue. Email has been sent to Leatherique.

    IMG_2466.jpgIMG_2467.jpg

  18. #43
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    OMG!!! I need this!!! Or, at least, to do this!!! My 'new' black leather drivers seat is turning grey in some spots, and they're some red paint or something on the back... I did not know I could redo the leather!!! EEEk. Happy happy!
    Stuff Goes Here.

    My heart beats like an old VW engine. Backfires a bit, but runs forever.

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by zubbie View Post
    I bought some Chemical Guys leather cleaner and conditioner. They have a decent video on their web site of an old Merc being treated.

    I just bought their 5 bottle leather treatment kit as well, so far is looks good and also smells decent, with the final outcome. It surely removed the gloss and the sticky feel from the coach, havent tried it just yet on the E34's seat yet. But even with the cleaner diluted to 1:6 it still works fine.

    Btw, was the kit you bought package #4 from http://www.leatherique.com ? Im strongly considering to buy this in the near future, also I see that some airbrush pistols cost like 100$, but I dont see a trigger on them, and im unfamiliar with them, what do I need to make it work, and is it ''as easy as using a spray can''?
    Last edited by Chivava; 03-20-2016 at 11:44 AM.

  20. #45
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    E34 interior isn't dove, it's light silver grey, but that is beside the point
    i have leatherique coming for my interior, but no dye yet. Want to restore/clean first and really see what I'm up against. I have a feeling I'll be dying at least the front seats, mine are LSG as well.
    Curious to see precisionmike's outcome.
    my version of a midlife crisis: 20 year old spray painted, lowered BMW station wagon.

  21. #46
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    I am well aware BMW didn't technically refer to it as Dove Gray, but everyone pretty much still refers to it as such.
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    2013 X5 35d Platinum Grey Metallic/Black Nevada Leather
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  22. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by precisionmike1 View Post
    Direct from Leatherique.

    I hope this is not considered hi-jacking a thread. If so, my bad. Here are a couple of pics of my issue. Email has been sent to Leatherique.

    IMG_2466.jpgIMG_2467.jpg

    Any updates on your experience with Leatherique and their response to your problems?

  23. #48
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    I will add some thoughts as I have refinished a few E34 seats.

    The best dye ( they are all actually water base paints) I have used is made by Classic Dye Products. Their Light Silver Gray and Parchment colors are spot on. Classic sells direct or you can buy it from companies like World Upholestery in CA. Classic also makes fillers for deep cracks and additives to give an OE matte finish. Very few, if any, automotive leather seats are aniline dyed through the hide; most are painted.

    Using a brush (specialty type, not just any brush) can result in uneven application and also tends to accentuate the shiny appearance. Using spray cans or a sprayer is better, however, the spray cans are more expensive. Good preparation is key, and for me that was using saddle soap with a round, leather application brush working small areas at a time (with immediate wiping to prevent too much dampening of the leather) and light sanding with 400 grit paper.

    I never bought into the "rejuvenation" idea because the leather is effectively sealed by the factory paint. I have tried rejuvenation oils and conditioners on dry areas like the top of the back seat with no appreciable change in suppleness. If leather is significantly dried out then it is likely dry rotted and not worth the expense and effort to restore it.

    Done correctly with high quality products, you can expect very good results from a redye job.

  24. #49
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    Greg, good stuff, very helpful. I'm looking at doing something to my seats as well.

    Quote Originally Posted by GregT53 View Post
    If leather is significantly dried out then it is likely dry rotted and not worth the expense and effort to restore it.
    How can you tell if it's "significantly dried out" ?

    My leather is more like "gray/dirt" instead of light beige/cream which it supposed to be(?) I was debating between re-upholstering and re-paint. This guy does wonders with leather. Check out this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wPw7SixQb7o

    From what it looks like, leather can be sanded and then painted just like anything else. Paint is pretty simple dye (just like what you say), but it seems like another "sealing" product need to be applied in couple coats. Have you done it and do you have source?

    Also, looks like using paint gun to apply is a way to go. Question is, did you re-dye whole seat or just portions? How did you mask pieces? Do we have any vinyl on seats or they are 100% leather and can be re-painted completely?

  25. #50
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    Dried out leather will be stiff with no suppleness.

    You are best off redying the whole seat because if you just redye areas you will get mismatchs. Just like painting anything else, new paint will look different due to slight differences in shades and, of course, wear, fading, and dirt in the older sections.

    I have never used a topcoat sealer after applying the paint. But, you may decide that this is something you want to do.

    The seats are all leather, no vinyl. Although, you can use this paint to refresh plastic and vinyl parts like the trim on the seat sides that hold the switches.
    Last edited by GregT53; 08-15-2017 at 11:34 PM.

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