1999 E36 M3 RB26dett project

[auaq]

Understood.

[Inflame]

In for updates on the booster delete, I am heavily considering this for my track car. Are you going to change the pedal ratio? The 7/8th's (22.25mm) master is fairly large for a booster-less setup. The OEM size, 25mm (for M3) is usually removed and replaced for a 17/17mm or 19/19mm along with a pedal ratio change from 4:1 to 6:1 using the "Massive-Lee" kit.

[Dcreech0]

The entire kit did come with a Bias valve that I have yet to install. The little bracket that was issuing from the kit is what I need to mount it to the firewall then run the lines. Some I'm kinda stuck at the moment. Here is a picture of it for reference.

[dmw16]

Enjoying the build.

The one thing however is the Chase Bay kit is a little sketchy, IMO. It's a single circuit design compared to BMW and most other setups which are dual circuit. The single circuit setup means that if one brake line fails you lose all your brakes rather than just the fronts or rears. And I think either SCCA or NASA doesn't even allow single circuit setups to run in most classes for safety reasons.

The booster-less option is a great way to pick up engine bay space, but I think the Massive (from Lee) with an OEM style (tho probably different size) MC is the better and safer option. Just my 2 cents.

[Dcreech0]

Another small update for you all. I finally decided to take some time to tackle the fuel pump. I knew the OEM BMW pump would not support my goals using the 1000cc injectors and planning for around 20psi. I also didn't want to do anything crazy like a standalone fuel cell.
I decided to call upon a group called Rally Road that machined and install sleeve to make many after market pumps a drop in affair. I opted to pay a little more money and got the Aeromotive 345lph. I have read these pumps can support pretty big numbers when using 93 octane. Here is what the kit came with.....



I didn't get alot of picture when taking it apart, but its pretty straight forward. I was actually surprised how easy it was to remove the rear seat and gain access to the fuel pump assembly. I did take some pictures as I put it back together. I did make sure to shop vac alot of gunk that had built up on top of the assemblies. I also would like to note, I opted to connect the wiring the correct way by soldering and heat shrink the connections. You can see this if you look at the pictures close.

[natem31995]

interesting build!

[Dcreech0]

Another small update. Actually it was a large key to finishing up the build, but not alot to report. My custom driveshaft came in from Shaftmasters. I decided to go with the aluminum 3 inch variation. I was for sure a tight fit under the car but does fit. Here are a couple pictures for records. Sorry for the crappy pictures under the car. I dont have a lift at my disposal. I tried to get shots of both ends....

[dmw16]

The custom driveshaft is pretty cool. No need for a CSB?

[Jkpgt96]

I have a single piece driveshaft as well..no need for the CSB R154 trans.

Looks good! Are you going to wire a relay to power the Aeromotive pump? I don't know what kind of power it draws in comparison to my Walbro 485, but I think that is usually suggested with these larger pumps and is pretty simple with the relay kit that Eric (RallyRoad) sells..

[mbfinatic]

AWESOME BUILD! Im actually waiting on my chase bays bias valve bracket as well.

[jalopi]

Enjoying the build.

The one thing however is the Chase Bay kit is a little sketchy, IMO. It's a single circuit design compared to BMW and most other setups which are dual circuit. The single circuit setup means that if one brake line fails you lose all your brakes rather than just the fronts or rears. And I think either SCCA or NASA doesn't even allow single circuit setups to run in most classes for safety reasons.

The booster-less option is a great way to pick up engine bay space, but I think the Massive (from Lee) with an OEM style (tho probably different size) MC is the better and safer option. Just my 2 cents.

this.

also, the massive delete plate will NOT fit on an e36, i found that out the hard way

i'll admit that i also currently have a single circuit 3/4" master cylinder, but i fully understand the risks associated with this system and am also single with no kids... no responsibilities. eventually i'll replace the wilwood unit with a mk1 golf master cylinder, it's a dual circuit 17ish mm master. problem with using that on the chasebays plate is the VW master bolt holes are on the X axis instead of the Y axis like wilwood does it, so some effort will be required to make something like that work. i didn't change my pedal ratio and the car stops fine, but then again i have 4.8sq.in wilwood calipers on 330i rotors. i imagine you'll need to use a bit more force to get the car to stop

interested to see how the downpipe gets run, seems like it's gonna be a real PITA

[Dcreech0]

I have a single piece driveshaft as well..no need for the CSB R154 trans.

Looks good! Are you going to wire a relay to power the Aeromotive pump? I don't know what kind of power it draws in comparison to my Walbro 485, but I think that is usually suggested with these larger pumps and is pretty simple with the relay kit that Eric (RallyRoad) sells..

i actually have been pondering adding the relay dedicated to the fuel pump ever since I have installed it. I have just been confused on how to wire it. I will in the end probably add one, will just need to research a little more.

[Jkpgt96]

It is very simple. Get power and ground from the battery, then use the stock wires basically as a trigger for the relay.

I used a couple bolts though the top with ring terminals to get power to the pump. Just drill a couple holes in the top and use marine grade ring terminals.

[Dcreech0]

It is very simple. Get power and ground from the battery, then use the stock wires basically as a trigger for the relay.

I used a couple bolts though the top with ring terminals to get power to the pump. Just drill a couple holes in the top and use marine grade ring terminals.

I am going to be using the oem harness and connection on top of the fuel pump assembly. So I assume I just splice into the wiring above the metal fuel pump cover? Then mount the relay somewhere out of site.

[Jkpgt96]

I am using the oem wiring, but just cutting off the connector that would normally plug into the hanger (only the one for pump power, you still need the other for the gauge). I am then running the wiring under the rear seat and back to the battery. Yes, I intend to connect before the wiring goes under the metal cover.

[auaq]

Any updates?

[Dcreech0]

Hello again everybody. I wanted to post real quick since i have not in a while. I am in the process of purchasing my first home. Not a whole lot has happened with the car since I last posted. I am having Saikou Michi build me a custom catch can with my build. I have alos been gathering more and more parts to complete the downpipe, Exhaust, and charge piping (thanks to Treadstone and Vibrant Performance). The car will be running a 3.5" downpipe and keep that same size all the way to the rear of the car. I also plan to utilize 3" charge pipes from turbo the intake manifold. I did take the car to my Fab guy, which it is where it sits now to get all this done. I will post updates as he sends them to me.....
I can not believe how dirty the car got over the winter in the garage. It was the first time it saw daylight since the BMW motor was pulled....








Here are the first small updates I received from my car away from home.....

[Alpina7]

bad ass build man. I know the owner of chase bays, he stays a few miles from me here in Bham... awesome build too... What kind of numbers are you thinking of pushing (reliably) with this motor? also how often will you drive it..

and just curious... is there a reason you choose this motor over say a 2jzgte?

keep up the good work.

[bmwbitz]

Absolutely love this thread, just read it all way through! Well done mate your doing exactly what I wanna do! Lol

[auaq]

bad ass build man. I know the owner of chase bays, he stays a few miles from me here in Bham... awesome build too... What kind of numbers are you thinking of pushing (reliably) with this motor? also how often will you drive it..

and just curious... is there a reason you choose this motor over say a 2jzgte?

keep up the good work.

Meh .... 2jz are too common mod/swap around here. Why not be different?

[Alpina7]

i was just curious =)

me personally id love a 2jz swapped 740iL, but that 6000$ price tag for the Getrag V160 is a no go for me

[Dcreech0]

bad ass build man. I know the owner of chase bays, he stays a few miles from me here in Bham... awesome build too... What kind of numbers are you thinking of pushing (reliably) with this motor? also how often will you drive it..

and just curious... is there a reason you choose this motor over say a 2jzgte?

keep up the good work.

thanks everybody!!!! There should be a huge update in the next week or so. I have been taking a ton of parts to my fabrication guy. Only thing that is left needing addressed is to wire up the Haltech standalone, and figure out a throttle cable that will function.

[Dcreech0]

Ok guys, Just a small update with the car in the shop still getting some fabrication work done.
While the car has been at the shop I have decided to consider some heat management around the turbo and the manifold. I picked up a PTP turbo blanket, DEI fire sleeve for the turbo oil feed, A fire sleeve from Heatshield Products to protect the -10an turbo drain, some DEI titanium wrap for the down pipe, and some DEI gold tape that I plan on placing on the turbo intake and the cold side of the charge pipes. I also have picked up some Aluminum sheath from DEI that has yet to come in, for the protection on the fuel lines. I wont bore you all with much pictures on this post.
Most of the charge pipes were completed today. It is straight 3" aluminum from the turbo to the opening of the inlet manifold. I This the placement of the Tial BOV is ideal as close to the Throttle bodies as I could get. The one in the picture was just used for mock up. It was a spare the shop had laying. Mine will be in black.
On a side note, I hope to pick up my Haltech ECU this next week...... Cheers until next time....:2f2f:

[DoriDori]

Meh .... 2jz are too common mod/swap around here. Why not be different?

Agreed. And RB26 sound 10x better than 2JZs.

[auaq]

Looking good!

- - - Updated - - -

Agreed. And RB26 sound 10x better than 2JZs.

Well, I like the sound of both to be honest. It's just a preference which I like more.