Hi All,
I'm contemplating buying a used M5, that V10 is just glorious and I'd like to own one for a while. I've owned older BMW's, so I know to expect basically all the overcomplicated stuff in these cars to break, which is ok, I can fix it. My E92 335i was POS when it came to maintenance, but I kept it running great, it just needed 2-3 repairs a year after warranty, things like hoses, gaskets, bushings really don't last much longer than the warranty in modern BMW's.
Anyhow, does this high-strung V10 have any common weak points to look for? I'm having a hard time finding long term information. The car I'd be picking up would probably have in the vicinity of 80,000-100,000 miles on it. I'm also going to get the manual transmission, as I don't trust BMW's SMG one bit. I can rebuild a manual transmission no problem, they're simple.
Dear Friend, I own a 2008 M5 E60(6-speed) with about 114,000 miles here in California. My car has been at the dealer twice this month for some "big projects". The first one was for the throttle actuators which is common,...I had both of them changed along with reprogramming the car. This cost me $4,000. My second visit this month was for a new dual mass flywheel and clutch replacement. This was another $4,000. All I can say is that since I've owned this car, now 2 years, I've spent almost $14,000. Last year was a $3,000 tune-up which was spark plugs and new ignition coils. My car runs great now, but my wallet is a lot lighter now! I'm not even including new tires and cost for springs/install. All in all these cars need to be serviced or all sorts of performance issues can occur. Not to scare you, but I am an owner that likes to have my cars running correct at all times with zero issues. Along with maintenance and very careful oil changes, keep in mind that you might want to do some "mods"??? I've only had wheels painted gloss black and lowered the car with HR Sport Springs and it still turns heads. This is my second M5 in 6-speed Manuel and I love the performance. I feel that my previous E39 M5 handled a little better, but the newer M's are always better! Every once in a while I get people asking me if I want to sell my car, I just reply no never because I think there will NEVER be another V10 and I hope that this car commands a premium in a couple years like the M3's from the late 80's?!?!????
Last edited by KLLRV10; 04-20-2016 at 12:57 AM.
My experience has been rather pleasant with my 2007 6MT. Had it shipped to ohio from the west coast and now has 108,000 miles. In three years of ownership I have only had to change the alternator when it failed. I tend to all my own maintenance items and have been able to save cash in labor but parts are still a bit more expensive. She has been very reliable for me as a daily driver. No complaints
2007 E60 M5 Silverstone/Blk 6speed
2001 E38 750il Shadowline
2002 P38 Range Rover Holland and Holland
2008 E65 Alpina B7
- Rod bearings are the number one catastrophic failure. If you own an S85, they are worn...period.
- Throttle actuators failures are quite common as well
- SMG PLCD clutch position sensor. $350 parts, 2-3 hours labor.
- SMG pump motor failure: around 60-80k usually, only need to replace the motor itself, about $350 in parts, 4-5 hours labor.
- SMG hydraulic unit wiring harness failures. Insulation degrades and shorts on sensor strip and actuator solenoid wiring.
- DSC hydraulic unit. Same cause as SMG, the motor is a DC brushed design and the brushes wear out. $400 to repair, 2-3 hours labor.
That's the most common by far, speaking from 10 year of familiarity, 15 rod bearing changes, 3 full engine rebuilds, 20ish throttle actuator replacements, countless SMG repairs, and salvage dismantling 26 S85 powered vehicles.
Good to know! Can the rod bearings be replaced from under the car like the M3's? Or is this an engine pull situation?
NEVERMIND:
https://www.germanautosolutions.com/...change_diy.php
Yep, not buying one of these. Would rather get a E60 550i M-sport. LOL
Last edited by Simann; 01-10-2017 at 10:39 AM.
2005 Silvergrau E46 M3 SMG
"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention to arrive safely in a pretty and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming: Wow!!! What a ride!"
Sorry I'm waking up an old thread but if you keep changing your rod bearings without ensuring they are all spaced correctly and not flushing all the oil channels in the block itself you're going to keep having failures.
This DIY link is a joke https://www.germanautosolutions.com/...change_diy.php. If you just check all the removable parts for scoring and don't flush the whole block, you'll have the chaff pumped right back through and destroy the bearings again within a few thousand miles. Even if you get everything clean, if you just pop on a set a bearings the oil clearance can vary wildly. You gotta measure each rod, measure each journal AFTER they've been polished, order bearings as a custom fit for each and then measure the final clearance with micrometers as you need to be accuate within a few thousandths of an inch on each to ensure proper oiling. On a 9000 rpm motor, I'd say you want less than .001'' - .002'' difference between each rod across the board as the oil flow with just .004'' or .005'' difference between each rod can be 200% off.
I've worked on Subarus for years - not nearly as delicate or sensitive engines, they are kinda crude and simplistic compared to the S85 obviously but people experience multiple rod-bearing failures when the engine isn't completely disassembled and flushed with the oil pan, oil pickup tube, oil cooler, oil pump all catch screens REPLACED regardless of visual inspection and then each Rod Bearing sized accurately between .0014'' and .0018''...
That's on a 30 year-old flat 4 engine ripped off from the original aircooled VW design..what do you think you need to do with a V10?
If you have a rod bearing failure, pull your engine and have the entire thing rebuilt and you'll easily get another 100k + trouble free miles. Also, don't follow the factory Oil Change Interval, it's insanely stupid for a 9000 rpm car to go that long between changes. It's like a race car, after drifting events and spirited runs you should replace the oil within 4,000 miles.
Insanity. No wonder the S60 M5 is worth less used than a 100,000 mile Subaru STI. It's laughable what I read on here.
No need to pay $4000 for a tune up! All you have to do is change the plugs and coils. You should either have a good amount of money to own this car, or be a decent DIY mechanic (my preference).
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