Engine Fail Safe. Got Codes. Need Help?

[srq]

2 Days ago on the freeway, Engine Fail Safe came on and cut power to engine. Coasted to the side and the engine RMP was fluctuating between 700 to 1500. Let car cool for 10 min and was able to coast to nearest gas station where the car stalled. Took car home on a flatbed. The car sat for a day, and I started the car today and pulled the following codes. After getting the codes, I cleared the code & adaptations and run the car for ~ half hour. No codes came back.

Note that I also have the ABS/ASC trifecta issue for about 2 months (I think this is unrelated)
Also, a week ago, I had an issue with the transmission while city stop/go driving. The car stayed in second gear and would not shift up. This happened once and never again since. I am also posting Transmission codes.

Please advise if I have a Mass flow sensor issue, voltage issue, or other?

Codes from Engine:
Image2.jpgImage3.jpgImage4.jpgImage5.jpgImage6.jpg

Codes from Transmission:
Unable to load image for transmission. I think 5 is the limit. Will load in a followup post.

Question: All my post images seem to be thumbnails. When inserting images in this forum posts, how the you make them show up expanded like I see elsewhere.

[srq]

Codes from Transmission:
Image7.jpg

Please note the high voltage in transmission, and possible low voltage reading in the engine code. I did not check teh voltage when the Engine Fail Safe came on, but this morning, the Cluster voltage shows 13+ volts while at idle.

- - - Updated - - -

Here are the code in text. Reads better than the above images...

Engine Code:
E R R O R M E M O R Y R E P O R T
-------------------------------------
Date: 02/04/16 10:47:42
ECU: ME72KWP0
JobStatus: OKAY
Variant: ME72KWP0
-------------------------------------------------------------
RESULT: 7 errors in error memory !
-------------------------------------------------------------
115 Hot film air mass meter
Error frequency : 6
Logistic counter: 40
Error occured 1. times at:
Engine speed 1080.00 /min
Intake air temperature 36.75 Grd C
angle DK oriented to DK-at stop 5.49 % DK
ADC HFM 1.29 V
Error occured 2. times at:
Engine speed 1160.00 /min
Intake air temperature 35.25 Grd C
angle DK oriented to DK-at stop 3.53 % DK
ADC HFM 1.10 V
Error occured 3. times at:
Engine speed 1200.00 /min
Intake air temperature 35.25 Grd C
angle DK oriented to DK-at stop 5.49 % DK
ADC HFM 1.35 V
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
voltage value to low current,
--
--
--
voltage value to low Initial,
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
Fault sporadic
--
--
-------------------------------------------------------------
131 DK-controller Regulator area
Error frequency : 11
Logistic counter: 40
Error occured 1. times at:
Supply voltage 12.81 V
Intake air temperature 35.25 Grd C
angle DK oriented to DK-at stop 3.53 % DK
Setpoint DK-angle oriented to lower stop 1.95 %
Error occured 2. times at:
Supply voltage 12.62 V
Intake air temperature 36.00 Grd C
angle DK oriented to DK-at stop 3.53 % DK
Setpoint DK-angle oriented to lower stop 1.56 %
Error occured 3. times at:
Supply voltage 11.30 V
Intake air temperature 48.00 Grd C
angle DK oriented to DK-at stop 4.31 % DK
Setpoint DK-angle oriented to lower stop 1.95 %
--
Error tested
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
current to low,
--
--
--
Initial to low,
--
--
--
CARB debounce
SCATT-active
--
--
Fault sporadic
--
--
-------------------------------------------------------------
134 Test lower at stop
Error frequency : 5
Logistic counter: 40
Error occured 1. times at:
Supply voltage 11.78 V
Intake air temperature 39.00 Grd C
voltage DK-Potentiometer 1 0.90 V
udkp1a_u 0.04 V
Error occured 2. times at:
Supply voltage 11.78 V
Intake air temperature 37.50 Grd C
voltage DK-Potentiometer 1 0.90 V
udkp1a_u 0.04 V
Error occured 3. times at:
Supply voltage 11.30 V
Intake air temperature 48.00 Grd C
voltage DK-Potentiometer 1 0.84 V
udkp1a_u 0.04 V
--
Error tested
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
Test lower at stop faulty current,
--
--
--
Test lower at stop faulty Initial,
--
CARB debounce
--
--
--
Fault sporadic
--
--
-------------------------------------------------------------
136 Test emergency air position
Error frequency : 1
Logistic counter: 40
Supply voltage 11.96 V
Intake air temperature 36.75 Grd C
wdknlp 8.24 %
Setpoint DK-angle at NLP-position 8.23 % DK
--
Error tested
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
Test emergency air position faulty current,
--
--
--
Test emergency air position faulty Initial,
--
CARB debounce
--
--
--
--
--
--
-------------------------------------------------------------
117 DK-Potentiometer
Error frequency : 1
Logistic counter: 40
Engine speed 1440.00 /min
angle DK oriented to DK-at stop 4.31 % DK
voltage DK-Potentiometer 1 0.88 V
voltage DK-Potentiometer 2 4.52 V
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
current unplausible,
--
--
--
Initial unplausible,
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
-------------------------------------------------------------
119 Throttle-valve potentiometer 2
Error frequency : 1
Logistic counter: 40
Engine speed 1240.00 /min
Setpoint DK-angle oriented to lower stop 2.73 %
Ambient temperature 27.75 Grd C
air mass meter 20.00 kg/h
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
Deviation between Potentiometer 1 and 2 to big current,
--
--
--
Deviation between Potentiometer 1 and 2 to big Initial,
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
-------------------------------------------------------------
135 DK-controller Error to Amplifiers adjustment
Error frequency : 2
Logistic counter: 40
Error occured 1. times at:
Supply voltage 11.68 V
Intake air temperature 65.25 Grd C
voltage DK-Potentiometer 1 0.80 V
udkp1a_u 0.04 V
Error occured 2. times at:
Supply voltage 11.49 V
Intake air temperature 42.75 Grd C
voltage DK-Potentiometer 1 0.66 V
udkp1a_u 0.02 V
--
Error tested
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
DK-controller Amplifier adjustment faulty current,
--
--
--
DK-controller Amplifier adjustment faulty Initial,
--
CARB debounce
--
--
--
Fault sporadic
--
--
================================================== ===========

[Timm]

First point of call is this:

http://www.meeknet.co.uk/e31/BMW_M62...e_Problems.htm

[cazal740i]

My 7 did this very thing 3 years ago....On Freway and BAng! Engine fail safe and loss of power....Pulled to side of fwy and had car towed home...Replaced the MAf sensor and everything back to normal

[srq]

Timm - Thanks for reply. I read your suggested link. I checked the 30A fuses (the cluster of 5x30 amp fuses) all good. Checked all the connections to the connections into the engine ECU (All clean and dry).

I will dig in more tomorrow to get to the thermostat heater connection to see any evidence of leak. May need to take the air intake & Mass flow to get to it. While I am at it, will attempt to clean the Mass Flow sensor.

Any other suggestions?
Could I have a bad Mass Flow Sensor (MFS)?
Any way to test the MAF?

[psjr]

One common cause of engine failsafe is low voltage. There are some voltages below 12V on the engine readouts, and the variety of different codes for the throttle to me would indicate a system issue rather than a problem with one component.
The voltage above 16V is also troubling.

The fluctuating RPMs and dying at a stop are MAF symptoms, but the MAF code is for voltage too low as well, so that could be the MAF or the MAF could have been a victim too.

[srq]

Good news/Bad News - Good news is Timm is correct. Bad news is I may need a new DME. Closer look w/DME out revealed what Timm suggested. There were no 30AMP fuses blowout but DME harness did have corrosion and one broken pin. See picture below. Far left pin second row from the bottom. (Unless that pin is supposed to be missing - Wishful thinking).

DSC_5270.JPGDSC_5269.JPGDSC_5269a.JPG

Options:
1. Use existing DME hopping that is the pin that controls the T-Stat switch and maybe I can do without when I convert my t-stat w/out the heating element.
2. Buy new or used DME. Is it plug & paly, or will it need programming from dealer?
3. Other option? Please suggest....

[740iSport303]

Contact DUDMD and he will have you send your old DME the EWS and 1 key. He will hopefully have another DME that he can "virginize" and copy your DME to it. Then he'll send it back all plug and play. However with the moisture you have in the current DME you need to replace your thermostat dry out the wiring, pull the broken off pin out of the harness connector, prior to installing a new DME. Otherwise you will just have the same issue again very soon!

[Timm]

Yes, as above if your DME is a gonner - but, give the connectors a good scrubbing with a contact cleaner - do the same with the DME (do it connector facing down with a small brush) - obviously sort out the source of the moisture - you never know, that might just do the trick.

[srq]

Contact DUDMD and he will have you send your old DME the EWS and 1 key. He will hopefully have another DME that he can "virginize" and copy your DME to it. Then he'll send it back all plug and play. However with the moisture you have in the current DME you need to replace your thermostat dry out the wiring, pull the broken off pin out of the harness connector, prior to installing a new DME. Otherwise you will just have the same issue again very soon!

Fairly new to this forum. DUDMD???

- - - Updated - - -

Yes, as above if your DME is a gonner - but, give the connectors a good scrubbing with a contact cleaner - do the same with the DME (do it connector facing down with a small brush) - obviously sort out the source of the moisture - you never know, that might just do the trick.

Timm - I just cleaned the DME with contact cleaner, put it back in and fired up car. Initially ran rough (Maybe needed to adapt), but now idling fine. Still need to fix the source of the moisture into the harness. That will eventually be taken care of when do a new non-mapped thermostat conversion.

In the meantime, my DME still has one broken pin as shown in the thread above. Can I live with that. Is there a source that describes the pin-out of the DME. Would like to know what is the broken pin connected to?

[740iSport303]

Do a search for him and you can PM or maybe find his facebook page.

Get a can of "Wire Dry" by CRC. Disconnect the wire from the thermostat then clean and spray with the wire dry. I'd also leave it unplugged until you do your thermostat change or you will simply keep wicking coolant to the DME and potentially kill it completely.

[srq]

Do a search for him and you can PM or maybe find his facebook page.

Get a can of "Wire Dry" by CRC. Disconnect the wire from the thermostat then clean and spray with the wire dry. I'd also leave it unplugged until you do your thermostat change or you will simply keep wicking coolant to the DME and potentially kill it completely.

Thanks 740iSport303...

The Mystery of Pin#39
Further looking at DME issue, found that the broken pin on DME is #39. According to WDS, #39 is for Oil Level Sensor. Quick Google search and found that 740iSport303 had the same problem with the same pin missing/broken.
Looking at my DME harness, it does not seem that there is a broken pin in the harness (unless it was completely dissolved). Since the car is running fine after the cleanup and since all other pins are intact and solid, I am wondering if this pin was not there all along, or maybe removed by PO for some reason.

Suggestions
Any thoughts on pin #39? Any reason why it would be missing? I am not getting any error codes with pin not being there.
Shall I fix water pump and keep driving, or also replace/fix DME?
Does driving with the T-Stat heater wire unplugged throw any error code?

[DUDMD]

Open the DME cover and see if any corrosion is inside near the pins. If yes, replace the DME as it may fail at an unexpected time.
Otherwise you can leave it alone and hopefully nothing happens due to previous water damage.
We are able to supply and reprogram a used DME to match your car, just like an original. Since you have inpa, we can send you a virginized and preprogrammed dme, you just plug it in and sync ews/dme with inpa.
Send me PM or facebook message for pricing and other details/questions.
Thanks.

[740iSport303]

I thought the same thing about that pin, but I did find it in the harness after looking multiple times. That pin is there on a good DME and like I said you don't want anymore damage. Dima (DUDMD) helped me out and does a great job.

[psjr]

If it were me I would get a free/cheap DME from a parts car and solder on a good pin. The whole virginizing thing is very time consuming and expensive.

[740iSport303]

Cost from Dima was negligible and I had a good DME that had been virginized and reprogrammed to match my original DME back from him in less than a week. Plus, I didn't have to worry about messing up when trying to solder in a "replacement" pin.

[Timm]

I reckon that is Pin 26 - and, not used!

[srq]

I reckon that is Pin 26 - and, not used!

Timm - I really hope you are right. Is you picture above looking at the harness or the DME socket?

Also, I think the original pictures that I posted maybe upside down. Below are the same pictures rotated.
Copy of DSC_5269a.JPGCopy of DSC_5269.JPG

Options:
1 - If Timms photo is the harness, and if the above photos are right side up, then missing pin is #39 (oil level sensor).
2 - If Timms photo is the DME socket, and if the above photos are right side up, then missing pin is #27 (Cyl 8 fuel injection valve).
3 - If Timms photo is the DME socket, and if the above photos are wrong side up, then missing pin is #26 (which is a "not used" pin).

Timm - is your photo of the harness or the DME & are my above DME photos right side up?

- - - Updated - - -

Cost from Dima was negligible and I had a good DME that had been virginized and reprogrammed to match my original DME back from him in less than a week. Plus, I didn't have to worry about messing up when trying to solder in a "replacement" pin.

I will be in contact with Dima to discuss my DME options. My current one now seems to be working, but do not mind having a backup one and maybe with some mods...

I also checked the T-Stat electrical connection and it is bone dry. I think PO had replaced teh T-stat and the residue in the DME was from a previous issue. Right now, I have the T-Stat unplugged and I do not seem to be getting any faults on the dash. Maybe the faults will only show up when the DME tries to activate the t-stat switch.

Thoughts....

[purplecty]

Tsat code wont case a check Engine light. Ot will be stored in the DME. If its dry and no longer and issue, plug it back in.