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Thread: E39 Touring hatch stuck in "soft" close position cycle

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    5
    My Cars
    '75 2002 and E39 wagon

    E39 Touring hatch stuck in "soft" close position cycle

    Hello Everyone!

    I've searched and read many thread about hatch problems, through google, bimmerforums, bummerfest, etc... but can't find the answer for my situation, since most threads are about not electrically opening or not closing.

    My Hatch - Tailgate is stuck in the closed position. When I activate any of the open buttons (drivers footwell, key fob, ext trunk button), the door lock actuator activates, gives the initial pop and immediately closes again, as if it thinks i had closed it softly. And no, I am NOT talking about the glass window. NO issues with glass window.
    It got stuck when I was parked on a somewhat steep incline and triggered the open trunk button on key fob. I can't exactly say that this was the factor, because I had the issue once about a week earlier, but I used "pressure and timing" to get it unstuck, worked after 3 or 4th time... Currently, I've been stuck for 2-3 days and tried the same technique, and prayed to the petrol gods, many many times.
    I am using master key, battery is running strong, no error codes, no "open door" lights on dash, car unlock/lock lights function like usual. The gas struts/springs for the hatch are shot, so it's fair to say that it has been closing a little harder than usual.

    So i read around, these are the steps i have taken:
    -Manual release cord through the inner tool casing. No luck, same exact result.
    -Remove and Inspect "central locking system" fuses, 1 by 1, both the front and back ones, till all were removed. No luck, but DIFFERENT result: hatch opens initial pop, but gets stuck there, still locked. when you hit any of the trunk release buttons, it then closes just like a normal soft cycle. basically, it does the same issue, but in two steps instead of one.
    -Physical pressure with different timings to make sure the hatch is shutting completely, as well as pulls to help assist the opening before the soft close activates.

    I got in the "flatbed" and tried to open the trim up to get a better view of the actuator and mechanics to see if the "ziptie" trick was the solution. I could be wrong, but it looks like the plastic is there and still holding it together.
    OF COURSE, because its stuck closed, i cannot completely remove the plastic trim panel cover and i cannot access the bottom actuator.
    HELP!
    here are pics and videos:

    IMG_3174.JPG

    Outside:
    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2E...ew?usp=sharing

    Inside panel trim
    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2E...ew?usp=sharing




    Ps: Yes, this is my first post on this forum. I normally read, find the solution and go on my way. i hate going through a thread with 1000 comments.. haha
    Last edited by moblu; 01-26-2016 at 12:07 AM. Reason: "when it happened"

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Raleigh, North Carolina
    Posts
    332
    My Cars
    '11 328xiT, '01 525iT
    Have you pulled the inspection panel off and looked at the locking unit itself? I hear there is a pin in there that can shear. That "might" be your problem.
    Rodney
    '12 128 convertible
    '11 328ix touring, wife's ride
    www.thscc.com

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Mauritius
    Posts
    5
    My Cars
    e39 touring 520i
    I fixed mine by removing the latch and actuator and ( you will need to pull off some trim) and re installing it.
    Could have been the position of the latch is not well aligned.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    paradise
    Posts
    298
    My Cars
    the shinny one
    Probably just in need of an adjustment (that's where I would start).

    I would use the emergency cable to open the hatch (you may have to disconnect the battery first).

    Then, re-adjust the latch and retry (it's probably too tight).

    Start by adjusting the latch on the loose side, move in increments until the horizontal area of the body panel approaches that of the fender.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    5
    My Cars
    '75 2002 and E39 wagon
    Quote Originally Posted by juststeve View Post
    Probably just in need of an adjustment (that's where I would start).

    I would use the emergency cable to open the hatch (you may have to disconnect the battery first).

    Then, re-adjust the latch and retry (it's probably too tight).

    Start by adjusting the latch on the loose side, move in increments until the horizontal area of the body panel approaches that of the fender.
    Sorry for the delay, this seemed like the most correct answer, but I am still stuck with it closed, even after i disconnected the battery. and i pulled the manual cord really hard! The hatch didn't budge at all...
    I made sure the car/hatch was unlocked before pulling the manual opener. but no luck... ​HELP!!!!

    Do i really have to unscrew the whole lock off? the problem i found with that, is that i am stuck trying to figure out how to squeeze the right screw heads in the cramped space, which i tried unsuccessfully.
    Last edited by moblu; 02-01-2016 at 05:09 PM. Reason: spelling

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
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    paradise
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    298
    My Cars
    the shinny one
    sounds as if it's too tight.
    with the window open, try pushing down on the hatch... up & down hard... while pulling the emergency cable

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    5
    My Cars
    '75 2002 and E39 wagon
    Hey everyone, finally have time to try and nail this.
    so I'm still stuck here. I removed the spare tire cover and the tire so I could actually see the lock on the bottom side.
    All moving parts seem to be good on the top/trunk panel side. I even disconnected the battery and tried manually opening the trunk. Same result. I get stuck in the soft close position but with out the electronic pull, the pull to close it, basically, i get a wiggle room
    NOW THOUGH, i can see what is not moving, it's the hook on the bottom. Doesn't matter if I unlock the car, lock it, pull emergency switch, hit open trunk button, it never changes position... The hook inside the (upside) U that goes into the bottom latch is stuck.. (I put a picture link below)

    How do I get the hatch open with the "rotating hook" stuck?
    Last edited by moblu; 02-13-2016 at 06:02 PM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    paradise
    Posts
    298
    My Cars
    the shinny one
    what you describe is not very common.
    I would sign on to ebay and purchase a used replacement (going for about $75).
    when it arrives, look it over to see how it works and how to get it apart.
    your first video shows access to the top of the latch,
    after reviewing the replacement, you may be able to trip the latch from above with tools.

    worst case, you may have to, break the plastic housing to gain access then drill the body or cut the old one off the car.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    NL
    Posts
    1
    My Cars
    e39 528 touring

    I have exactly the same issue.... what was the solution?

    Hi everyone,

    old thread but I have exactly the same issue with my e39 528 touring. thanks for the excellent write up and images. I was hoping to find the definite answer to fix this issue. Any chance someone can share the fix here?

    thanks, Maarten

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    Austin,Texas, USA
    Posts
    1
    My Cars
    2000 5401 wagon

    I have exactly the same issue.

    I have same issue. Seems I can not take it apart while it's stuck closed with the hook not releasing. If there were pics of the mechanism's internals it might help.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Portland, Oregon
    Posts
    1,139
    My Cars
    1984 318i, 1998 M3
    Bump. Just started having this issue as well. I was pulling fuses looking for a drain before this started. So that could be a clue for why this happened.To make matters worse my window hatch has been stuck closed as well before this.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    quechee vt
    Posts
    151
    My Cars
    1995 540i/6sp - 2001 525it - 1994 525it
    Another bump as I just got a similar issue. Any help would be really appreciated. Sorry for the length....

    My car went in for service and while in the shop I got a call asking about the rear hatch, locks, interior lights, remote open, and wipers not working. I never had any issues in the past before. The mechanic did say he used the button next to the hood release near the drivers feet which I never knew about and had never used it before.

    He says that with his tester he could make everything function correctly and all the fuses were OK. I ordered a used general module from eBay as a test unit (same part numbers) and am now told that everything but the rear hatch and glass now works. The rear hatch and glass still do not work, but the manual release will open the hatch. He did also say that the lock sounds like it is trying to release but doesn't fully. I am not sure about the glass as I thought they are separate from each other. Perhaps the new unit is from a sedan without glass that can open????

    The mechanic says the original general module will not test out at all and the eBay one tests OK all the way around. I searched the board earlier and and reached out to a member who I will be sending mine out to for repair when I pick up the car. I am concerned that even fixed I will still have issues.

    Can anyone help me out here?

    Thanks!

    Bill Mann

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2021
    Location
    Fort Collins Colorado
    Posts
    1
    My Cars
    E39 528, 540iT, M5
    Bill, Well 4 years later I am in the same position, I have a 2003 Msport 540it just back from total respray and I am finding myself with the same exact problem, from other threads I think it is probably an issue with the GM module - I can confirm the paint shop killed the battery and jumped it multiple times probably causing the GM to have issues- I saw your post here so thought I’d reach out….

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