Ordering a Suspension Refresh Kit... 328i vs M3?

[wghummel]

I'm looking on ECS Tuning's website for front/rear suspension refresh kits. I noticed their front and rear kit is only $682.41 for the 328i, but it' an eye-watering $1,095.59 for the M3.

Comparing the parts list, they're nearly identical except the M3 kit includes 2 more sway bar end links, for a total of 4 (compared to 2 in the 328i) kit.

I know some suspension parts on the M3 are tweaked like Front Control Arms, that kind of stuff. But why couldn't I just order a 328i kit for $682.41 and two more sway bar end links... saving me a few hundred dollars I could then use to pay for my brake upgrade?

Links:
328i Kit:
https://ecstuning.com/BMW-E36-328i-M...ear/ES2222307/

M3 Kit:
https://ecstuning.com/BMW-E36-M3-S52...its/ES2226208/


Thanks for the help.

[PeterHall]

The front control arm bushings are different. The non m have gaps, M's are solid rubber. Weird that the 328i kit already has them assembled.

[guymandude]

Front control arms are different. Strut tower tops are different (more camber). some of the bushings look different (probably stiffer). The front sway bar links attach to the struts, not the control arms like the non-M(only go with M struts) you also need an M swaybar ( I think). Looks like you have to assemble the lollipops on the M package (front control arm to body).

[anonymous4l]

Hi I'm about ready to upgrade my E36 coupe's suspension. I have a 97 E36 328is. What would be the least expensive and most fun in turns? Should I go stock or is there something out there that is better than stock and costs about the same?


Thanks,

[snaponbob]

A couple notes --- the comments and observations are correct. The sway bar links a) are different, and b) NOT interchangeable. Next, the control arms are a LOT more expensive for the M3 and there is no value on the 328i. Basically, anything that is M3 specific will add $$$$. You'll need a bushing tool for the rear control arm (RTAB). When done, an alignment will be needed.

As for improving the handling a bit, install M3 front control arm bushings instead of the 328 ones. This will add caster and help the steering response. For the RTABS, poly bushings will sharpen the rear handling a bit, will add a bit of cost, and sometimes will get squeaky if the bushing grease is not plentiful (during installation) of simply works its way out.

The only ways to really sharpen the handling (in a meaningful way) is upgrading the dampers, sway bars, and add some front camber (with camber plates). If you don't care about adjustable damping (and for daily use may just be bling) Koni RED strut inserts and shocks will help a good bit and are not real expensive. Koni Yellows are rebound adjustable, can be firmed up to assist body control, and therefore sharpen handling. Handling is like horsepower -- the more you want the more it costs !!!!!

P.S. DO nOT cheap out on suspension parts and bushings. As an experiment (since I work on a LOT of E30s and 36s) I intentionally DID go cheap just to see how they would last. Well, I got to repeat a lot of the work !! You can NOT go wrong with Lemforder. None of the low priced stuff is worth the time or money. Since I catch hell from someone for naming low end brands, I won't. Message me, and I will.

[cyberwolph]

+1 On the getting the best stuff you can get, or afford. RTABs get the best you can as well as the m lollipops. Those seem to have the most stress applied to them in the twisties. But as far as going with all M parts, I would suggest going with all 328 stuff, except where previously mentioned and I believe you will be more than happy. There is nothing like have a car that goes from a worn out suspension to totally new. If you must have the M parts, most of the time you can find somone that is upgrading their M and willing to sell all the stuff they dont need. At least that way if you dont feel like you can justify spending the extra $ up front it gives you the piece of mind knowing everything is new. I dont personally throw my car around on the track or drive too hard on the road to need the M stuff, although it would be nice to have. Anyway if you have the $ to spare then go for it otherwise keep it mostly stock except for the few bushings that have already been mentioned.

[curry]

If you go with poly for the RTABs don't use UUC red ones. You'll regret it if you do.

[somebody5788]

Pretty confident the sway bar link bracket is transferable. I just used M ball joints and bushings pressed into my 328 control arms / lollipop's.

[snaponbob]

Pretty confident the sway bar link bracket is transferable. I just used M ball joints and bushings pressed into my 328 control arms / lollipop's.

Nope. Need an M3 strut to attach it properly.

[somebody5788]

Nope. Need an M3 strut to attach it properly.

I mean the other way around. The bracket from a 328 control arm can be mounted to an M3 control arm to use stock non m links. They seem to use the same control arm casting.

[anonymous4l]

Thanks for all the info y'all...very helpful. After doing some more research and actually looking at my car on a lift. My mechanic suggests that I only replace the front shocks and rear bushings. Sorry for the language...but he's saying "all the metal stuff is good...just replace the bushings and shocks/struts".

This is what I'm considering now:
https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E36-32...ion/ES2650952/
https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E36-32...ion/ES1905687/

Thoughts? Comments?

Thanks (again) for the positive feedback.

[xxxxxxx]

Never heard of EOM. Can anyone comment?

I would consider the Ground Control coilovers. Proven, and relatively inexpensive.

[anonymous4l]

P.S.

I think the idiot that had the car before me was attempting to drift with it and the passenger rear trailing arm bushing is demolished, so is the parking brake. Where can I get an affordable parking brake replacement? Anything else y'all can think of that I should tend to while I do the bushing, coilover, and parking brake replacement?

Thanks.

[Jaws]

P.S. DO nOT cheap out on suspension parts and bushings. As an experiment (since I work on a LOT of E30s and 36s) I intentionally DID go cheap just to see how they would last. Well, I got to repeat a lot of the work !! You can NOT go wrong with Lemforder. None of the low priced stuff is worth the time or money. Since I catch hell from someone for naming low end brands, I won't. Message me, and I will.

AGREED! I also learned the hard way and cheaped out on coilovers, all the rest of the stuff was lemforder. Never again will I go that route. I upgraded to KW as soon as I could, and continued to refresh the bushings and got camber plates.

What I did:
On my 328i I went with lemforder m3 control arm assemblies, the bushings are a bit stiffer if I'm correct. Refreshed the sway bar bushings, did tie rod assemblies, KW v1, BMW reinforcement plates on my UUC camber plates, Rogue engineering rear shock mounts, (haven't touched the rtab or subframe bushings yet) Swapped in a lower mileage LSD so the bushings were good there. I went the extra mile and did m3 motor mounts and Rogue engineering tranny mounts. Also did new exhaust mounts. Everything you do will feel worlds better. I'm about to do the flex disc and the full shifter upgrade/refresh.

[snaponbob]

P.S.

I think the idiot that had the car before me was attempting to drift with it and the passenger rear trailing arm bushing is demolished, so is the parking brake. Where can I get an affordable parking brake replacement? Anything else y'all can think of that I should tend to while I do the bushing, coilover, and parking brake replacement?

Thanks.

The car is designed with that system and engineering a different e-brake system would be wildly expensive. Actually, that system is only a parking brake -- as an EMERGENCY brake system it is a joke. That said, a set of shoes are actually cheap. If the hardware is broken inside the rotor, it is as well. At some point you'll need new rotors anyway, so if the inner drum surface is torn up, rotors will be needed.

As for the JOM stuff, you get what you pay for. You really need to KNOW how much that system drops your car. The specs say "These coilovers offer a range of adjustment from 1 1/4" to 3 1/2" drop in the front and 1 1/4" to 3" drop in the rear ." I know personally that 1 1'4" is MORE than plenty. If you drop it 3" you will NOT be happy. Besides having trouble in parking lots, driveways, and practically ANYWHERE that is not a billiard table, you will not be able to correct all the negative camber that will be created without replacing the rear lateral links and installing camber plates in the front.

To put it more bluntly, there is no positive feedback for that JOM stuff. Calling that set up junk is being kind. Sorry, but it is awful. If there is doubt, let others share their thoughts on that stuff. I am sure that is not what you want to hear (read), but I hate to see guys burn cash.