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Thread: limp mode on my 328i 2007

  1. #1
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    limp mode on my 328i 2007

    I have a 2007 328 e 90 . The check engine light is on and all the car wil do is idle . Pressing the gas has no effect at all on the power or the Rpms.i did a scan and got code p105b and p1056. The codes say vvt supply voltage control motor low input bank 1 and internal control module vvt error voltage to low. Can anybody tell me what to do to fix this and get the car out of limp mode any suggestions would be awesome.

  2. #2
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    Take the car to a good BMW specialist shop, or a dealership. You have incomplete information. P-codes cannot diagnose your engine.
    Last edited by bmwdirtracer; 08-27-2017 at 03:25 PM.

    Chris Powell
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  3. #3
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    I k ow bmw can fix the issue was asking if anyone else had this issue and what they found to be the problem. O was hoping somebody could tell me what might be the cause . When you have no power when pressing the gas.

  4. #4
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    What might be the cause:

    Throttle pedal potentiometers, throttle pedal wiring, throttle body unit potentiometers or wiring, DME output stage fault or DME plug or circuitry, perhaps BUS faults with some other module in the circuit, perhaps a wet computer or electrical connector.

    VVT might be referring to the valvetronic or vanos system. A good BMW diagnostic computer would use words for the code.

    Did you jump start the car or do any work just before this happened? The valvetronic motor might have lost it's end points, or might be unplugged, or you might need a new valvetronic motor.
    Last edited by bmwdirtracer; 08-19-2017 at 09:03 PM.

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  5. #5
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    The battery was dying and yes i jumped it off. Is there a code reader that will read bmw codes correctly. The car is acting very strange . It starts fine and will set an idle fine but the second any gas is given it goes into limp mode and it will drive just fine in forward gears and reverse.. just on its own power. the engine light pops on showing half power.

  6. #6
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    Even if you are able to read codes correctly, nothing but a pro quality computer with BMW software can reset the valvetronic limit points. And nothing except a BMW ISTA / ICOM computer can actually work through the correct diagnostic program to identify the exact problem and likely solution.

    I've heard reports from several technicians about incorrect jump starting causing valvetronic motor voltage issues; sometimes it has required a new valvetronic motor, sometimes a new DME, because the output stage has been fried.

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  7. #7
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    Thanks for your help. I will get it to a shop and see what happens. My luck stinks. I shut the hood yesterday and now the cable release will not open the hood. This is my 4th bmw but this one has been the biggest pain to deal with.

  8. #8
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    As bmwdirtracer noted, find a reputable shop that specializes in BMWs. Try www.bimrs.org. Also ask for recommendations from the local chapter of the BMW Car Club of America.

  9. #9
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    Will try that. Does anybody know of a good scanner for bmw. I do alot of my own work bit the scanner i have is generic and doesnt give much info. I have owned bmw foe several years and got very familiar with the quirks of the car. But a decent scanner reasonably priced would be awesome.

  10. #10
    dworthy's Avatar
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    Most hand scanners are generic. If you want to pay for a good one, Snap-on offers a very nice diagnostic machine for around 2k.
    Darin
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  11. #11
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    Thats out of my budget . I read stuff on the C110 scanner but as usual some say its great some say it is a piece of junk. I would just like the capability to read the cars codes accurately and reset codes . I have 2 BMW s now a 2004 325i and. 2007 328i. So just needing one to make it a little less painful trying to figure out issues as they pop up.

  12. #12
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    i've done a lot of research on this topic, and you do have some options. your options boil down to what you want, and how computer savvy you are.

    In general, if you want to read BMW codes there aren't any generic OBD-II scanners that are going to perform that job.

    In summary:
    actually, one of the potentially cheapest options is to check if your local BMW CCA chapter has a DIY program. If they do, they may have special tools, including BMW specific scanners. If so, membership is much cheaper than nearly any scanner you could buy.

    another option would be a bavarian technic scanner:http://www.bavariantechnic.com/
    their site explains everything the software can do, and if you only want to ever work on up to three cars its quite affordable.

    from there, the route gets quite interesting - if you only want OBD-II codes and the ability to log live data, and you have a smartphone, an OBD-II adapter (WiFi for iOS and Bluetooth for Android) along with the OBD-Fusion app is an excellent combination. Obviously, this is a limited option, but it's actually better at live data graphing and logging than some of the more expensive items.

    There are BMW products from Snap-On, OTC, and others; however, that price point is going to be aimed at the pro market. From time to time, you can find one for sale used but you really need to do your homework to know what you are getting. Some, without the proper software or keys, can be no better than a generic scanner.

    There are preconfigured kits on eBay using GT1/DIS/INPA/ISTA - pricing and quality varies.

    Apart from the configured kits, you can build your own setup using a laptop and cables. The diagnostic software forum has lots of resources on how to do that.

    BMW themselves also offer access to their diagnostics, TSB's, service manuals/repair procedures, and nearly everything else the dealer has - from a site www.bmwtis.com - on a subscription basis. You will need some specific hardware if you intend to use the site to diagnose your vehicles. That hardware can get expensive fast.

    The other item to remember is the need for a vehicle power supply - this is more critical on the newer vehicles (e90 onward). For most code reading sessions, it's not necessary; however, BMW is rather clear of the need to provide stable power to the vehicle while performing diagnostics, programming, etc. Do your homework and determine what level of risk you are willing to take on this part. There's many that have been just fine without using anything more than a simple battery charger; however, there's also many documented instances of issues. So, read up and be an informed consumer!

    Finally, it's one thing to have access to the codes and the gear, but its another to understand what its trying to tell you! That's where the real learning begins!
    '95 325iS - auto to manual swap done!

  13. #13
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    Ok thanks so much. Got another issue as if i dont have enough. The hood latch on the inside will not release the hood now. I took off the cover and pulled the cable with pliers but it would not release the hood any ssuggestions on how to get my hood up so i can replace the cable .

  14. #14
    dworthy's Avatar
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    Does the cable pull back once you release it?

    The odd part about most BMW's built after the E-36's is that your hood cable is two cables, with a connector under the hood. If the cable doesn't come back then it has detached from the "box" under the hood, which is made out of plastic. You will need to come up from the bottom to be able to get to the front cable and pull on it to loosen the hood. You will need to raise the car and remove the plastic under body panels to get access to the engine compartment. You will need to go in front of the radiator support and to the driver's side behind the headlight to get to the cable. Give it a tug, and that should loosen the hood. Then look behind the radiator support, on the fender for a black rectangle plastic box. That box is where the cables attach to each other.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Darin
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  15. #15
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    Thanks to all you guys out there . It is so awesome to be able to reach out to other bimmer owners and hear your propestives on issues and suggestions. This site is amazing. Againg my gratitude for you assistance. Will diffinately try these recommendations.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Is there a special applications to view the images you sent when i download it all that was there was a image of a paperclip

    - - - Updated - - -

    Is there a special applications to view the images you sent when i download it all that was there was a image of a paperclip

  16. #16
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    No the cable from the inside will move but does nothing . Feels like it is not attached to anything. I couldnt view the pictures you sent was just a picture of a paperclip.

  17. #17
    dworthy's Avatar
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    Odd, as I can see them at work, as well as home where I uploaded them. It maybe because you are a new user, and you need 10 posts to pretty much do anything here.

    Again I think the cable has gone kaput, and thus it's not pulling on the locks releases like it suppose to. If you can get the front end up in the air, you can try to go from the bottom to get to the cable.
    Darin
    Current:
    16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
    Past:
    95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
    84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
    91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
    82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
    79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
    79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
    M-Flight Member

  18. #18
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    Ok got the drivers side of the hood to release bit the passenger side will not is there a trick to get it to release. I removed bothe wheel well covers and when i tug on the cable the drivers side release but not the hood lattch on the passenger side .

    - - - Updated - - -

    Was able to release the drivers side of the hood but the passenger side is still locked any idea how to get it to release .I tried the center latch but it is still locked in on the passenger side

    - - - Updated - - -

    I was able to get the drivers side to release but not the passenger side of the hood any suggestions on how to get it to release. I pulled the cable like you said under the fender well but it didnt release the passenger side just the drivers side . Any help or suggestions would be great

  19. #19
    dworthy's Avatar
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    Then you will need to go thru the middle. The cable goes in front of the radiator, also if there is something under the hood, you may need a friend pushing down on the hood to get the tension released as you pull the cable.
    Darin
    Current:
    16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
    Past:
    95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
    84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
    91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
    82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
    79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
    79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
    M-Flight Member

  20. #20
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    Finally got the hood up. Had ro go thru the wheel covers and tug on the cable on both sides. Thanks for all your help. For those trying it . It is not an easy task but can be done .

  21. #21
    dworthy's Avatar
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    It is not designed to be easy, this keeps the theft down on BMW's. But it is good to see you were able to get it open, which one of the cables was bad?
    Darin
    Current:
    16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
    Past:
    95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
    84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
    91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
    82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
    79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
    79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
    M-Flight Member

  22. #22
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    The junction were it splits at the drivers side fender had come out of the two holes that it snaps in. It rendered the cable release useless. But as a precaution i am going to replace the complete cable as it is rusty and the coating is missing in a section. . The task to get the hood up was far more time consuming than replacing the cable before it actually breaks. So for everybody out there check your hood release cable and be assured that replacing it before it breaks is well worth the twenty bucks for a cable than the agrivatio you will go thru if you ignore the cable as part of your preventive measures.

  23. #23
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    Hey Bobby!

    Did you ever find a resolution to the p1056 and p105b codes?

    I just got the same issue, except my Bimmer just won't start!

    Any help would be appreciated man!



    Quote Originally Posted by bobby9761 View Post
    The junction were it splits at the drivers side fender had come out of the two holes that it snaps in. It rendered the cable release useless. But as a precaution i am going to replace the complete cable as it is rusty and the coating is missing in a section. . The task to get the hood up was far more time consuming than replacing the cable before it actually breaks. So for everybody out there check your hood release cable and be assured that replacing it before it breaks is well worth the twenty bucks for a cable than the agrivatio you will go thru if you ignore the cable as part of your preventive measures.

  24. #24
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    Did you ever get your car fixed? I'm in the same position

    - - - Updated - - -

    Did you ever get your car fixed? I need help I have the same code

  25. #25
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    Same problem help!

    I am having the same problem code p1056 did you ever take it to a shop? What was wrong? Please reply
    Quote Originally Posted by bobby9761 View Post
    I have a 2007 328 e 90 . The check engine light is on and all the car wil do is idle . Pressing the gas has no effect at all on the power or the Rpms.i did a scan and got code p105b and p1056. The codes say vvt supply voltage control motor low input bank 1 and internal control module vvt error voltage to low. Can anybody tell me what to do to fix this and get the car out of limp mode any suggestions would be awesome.

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