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Thread: How to refill the liftgate pump on an E60 - Tailgate not opening fully

  1. #51
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
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    Fairfax, VA
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    1
    My Cars
    2006 530xi
    Any alternatives to the Royco 756? Hard to find.

  2. #52
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    Napa, Ca
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    1,796
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    1987 M6
    I looked around and found this cross-compatibility listing.

    APPROVED DOMESTIC COMMERCIAL FLUIDS FOR MIL-H-5606 Manufacturer’s Designation: PQ 2890/2863/2903/2905/2950/4140/3808/4328
    Mobil Aero HFD Stauffer Aero Hydroil 500
    Brayco 757B/756F/756ES/756E
    Brayco Micronic 756ES
    TEXACO Aircraft Hydraulic Oil 15/TL-10711
    Cheveron Aviation Hydraulic Fluid D PED 5225
    Penreco Petrofluid 4606/4146/4607
    Royco 756C/756D/756E
    Castrol Hyspin A
    Aeroshell Fluid 41

    Jose
    1987 M6
    Livin the dream!

  3. #53
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Crystal Lake, IL
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    1
    My Cars
    2010 535Xi E61
    Huge thanks for this! HUGE!

    I'm really lucky to have found this post via another post on BimmerFest. I had searched previously and came up empty handed. My last visit to the dealer I had them look at it and they said they would need to replace the hydraulic cylinder...over $5,200 for the estimate. They had just sent out an email for pre-Memorial Day service discounts and I was about to pull the trigger when I made one last search.

    Previously the liftgate seemed to be catching upon opening, made a loud noise, and then dropped back down. It would often take 2-3 attempts to open, and sometimes lifting it slightly by hand while opening seemed to help. Based on that, I wasn't sure whether it was hydraulics or something happening with the locking mechanism. But then it was also making a much louder noise while opening.

    At this point, I thought it was worth the try, as long as I didn't do any additional damage!

    So, the net of all this:
    1 additional hour of research
    1 quart of Aeroshell Fluid 41 from Amazon for ~$22
    1 marinade injector from Menards ~$6
    1 2" clamp (could probably get by with one size down) from Menards ~$2
    left over aquarium air hose (previously paid for)
    ~2 hours of work

    And so far it's opening fine and sounds much quieter.

    Some notes:

    Again, I might go with a slightly smaller hose clamp.
    If the tubing is a little small, put a pair of needle nose pliers in the end and "stretch" them a little bit and they'll slide on much easier and further than otherwise.
    For flushing the hydraulics, be sure the hose is well covered and cover your feed container... my hose was curling up a bit and it sputtered some, spraying some hydraulic fluid inside the car...not a huge mess but one more thing to clean up.
    I forgot to get and didn't have a strap wrench, but I pried it off carefully with a smaller screwdriver. I don't think it was overly tight, but it is a very cramped space and you have to pull it off fairly evenly.
    The hardest part was actually removing the original clamp. It is hard to get to and to really leverage anything, at least with what I had. Mostly tried to pry it up a little bit with a small screwdriver (careful not to damage anything in the process) and some pliers (squeezing and twisting the crimped part), until all of a sudden it just gave way.

    Beyond that, it was all very straight forward as mentioned. It sounded too simple, especially after the quote I got, but I think that was a full replacement of the entire system.

    Cheers!

  4. #54
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Napa, Ca
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    1,796
    My Cars
    1987 M6
    WOOHOO!!!! Yet another win for the DIY warrirors!

    I fully expect you to use some of that moolah you "saved" to have a full steak dinner with all the trimmings and adult beverages, and toast the mighty power of the BIMMERFORUMS!!!!

    It is REALLY satisfying to know we are all benefiting from some good old fashioned collaboration, and ingenuity. I will toast your triumph at dinner tonight.

    Jose
    1987 M6
    Livin the dream!

  5. #55
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Cromwell, CT
    Posts
    1
    My Cars
    2010 E61 530i Touring
    This is a great thread and original post...thank you DaHose. I have a 2010 E61 with all the same symptoms. This method worked like a champ!

    A few additional suggestions/tips on this method.

    Definitely 3/16" ID tubing worked on the waste and pickup tubes. Also worked on the marinade injector (without attached needle) I bought from Bed Bath and Beyond.
    Do NOT try smaller that a 2" hose clamp. 1 3/4" did not work (yes found out the hard way when auto parts guy gave me the wrong size).
    A small strap held with vice grips does indeed make a good strap wrench!
    Before removing the reservoir, I made an alignment mark using a permanent marker so it was just easy to line it back up again on reassembly.
    I used binder clips to hold the hoses in place in the waste and pickup containers...helps keep that curly end of the tube right where you want it in the bottom of the container.

    Thanks to all for this thread!
    Steve

  6. #56
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Napa, Ca
    Posts
    1,796
    My Cars
    1987 M6
    Hello again to anyone reading this thread. It has been just a couple days more than 1 year since I the last refill, and I had to top up my reservoir again this month.

    I looked, and E61 pumps are still around $250, so I can't justify buying a spare to figure out exactly which seal is leaking, but I'm still not driven to replace seals. Yearly refills are acceptable to me.

    Putting the paper towel down to catch the spillage is AWESOME! Do not omit that step.

    Jose
    1987 M6
    Livin the dream!

  7. #57
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Northbrook IL
    Posts
    1
    My Cars
    2007 BMW 530xiT

    e61 refilled reservoir- new problems

    Hello- new to the forum but very helpful!

    Just refilled the reservoir on my 2007 e61 wagon (it was way down) and now the tailgate will only occasionally close when I hit the button and when it's closed is just opens a few inches! Any idea what went wrong? It was not doing this before the refill- then it was just occasionally stopping halfway up.

    Any help would be appreciated!

    Kuzbayne

  8. #58
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Napa, Ca
    Posts
    1,796
    My Cars
    1987 M6
    A guess would be that the system needs priming to get air out, and the early stopping is confusing the position sensing.

    Try cycling the liftgate open/closed a few times, pushing it all the way open by hand if it stops early.

    Jose
    1987 M6
    Livin the dream!

  9. #59
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Slovakia
    Posts
    3
    My Cars
    2005 BMW E61 525d

    Angry

    Hi guys, I´m new to this forum, but facing a faulty tailgate opening, and also faulty closing. When I push the button near driver legs or directly on the trunk, tailgate starts to open but stops after few seconds - and this time is never the same - sometimes it´s 3 secs, sometimes 5, and occasionaly the trunk opens fully. Very annoying I must say. Closing is the same - sometimes stops in the middle during the process, sometimes closes fully... Is it due to low hydraulic liquid level? Video attached - sorry for low quality, small son on my hands and quite dark outside, but I´m sure you´ll get the idea.

    Thanks in advance

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ngphtQFl78
    Last edited by Kiski; 12-22-2018 at 01:18 PM.

  10. #60
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Napa, Ca
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    My Cars
    1987 M6
    I would definitely start by checking the fluid level. It's kind of loud, which is another indicator of low fluid. You can use the button to get it open, then push it fully open to work on things. It really is a fast/simple fix. Get a really short screw for the fill hole you drill into the reservoir, and have the oil, clamp, and syringe on hand. I could do it in 20 mins. now.

    Jose
    1987 M6
    Livin the dream!

  11. #61
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Slovakia
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    3
    My Cars
    2005 BMW E61 525d
    Fluid level checked, it´s just a few milimeters below the "+" mark...

  12. #62
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    Napa, Ca
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    1987 M6
    That level is about right, so I don't think the problem is fluid. There are position sensors on the liftgate, and the you can adjust the fully open position in iDrive. Verify it isn't set to a low open.

    Jose
    1987 M6
    Livin the dream!

  13. #63
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Slovakia
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    3
    My Cars
    2005 BMW E61 525d
    I don´t think that would cause this. Just because the trunk occasionaly fully opens...

  14. #64
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Issaquah, WA
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    2
    My Cars
    2006 BMW 530xi
    Another satisfied customer! Thanks DaHose! I'm going to go skiing with my saved money.

  15. #65
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    Napa, Ca
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    1,796
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    1987 M6
    Woohoo! Have a hot buttered rum for me.

    Jose
    1987 M6
    Livin the dream!

  16. #66
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Polk City, Fl
    Posts
    8
    My Cars
    e39 M5 , e61 535iXT
    I think we might need to consider this option a bit more. This is the official BMW "small parts kit" that was used by the dealer to top off mine. BMW dealer and RealOEM did not originally have a picture of what the kit was comprised of. Seeing that the kit does include enough fluid to fill the pump, and various O-rings/seals seem to be part of the screws, etc this might be a good choice to use for a longer fix. BMW Part #
    51-24-7-163-663, I BELIEVE

    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...s/51247163663/ has it for $106+. eautoparts has it cheaper and FCP was a bit more. I'm sure the prices fluctuate and different sources also have it.

  17. #67
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    Memphis
    Posts
    2
    My Cars
    2006 E61
    My failing tailgate has been a pain for a long time. Well not anymore! Thanks DaHose for the write-up and pics; pretty straight forward and easy to follow. My reservoir was almost empty and had a small amount of dirty sludge in it. Got it cleaned, primed, and refilled and just like new.

  18. #68
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Napa, Ca
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    1987 M6
    Right on, jonesdavide!

    sfcacique - The parts kit you show looks to me like it's just the clip that holds the hoses, the nuts that mount the bracket, the vibration isolators, a new drain plug for the reservoir, and some oil. I don't see o-rings to re-seal the pump. Given the price on the kit, I don't find value there. Just get a hose clamp, the oil to refill, and have at it.

    Jose
    1987 M6
    Livin the dream!

  19. #69
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Napa, Ca
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    1987 M6
    I have yet another update for this thread. I just refilled my reservoir again, and it seems to have been about a year once again. This isn't so bad, but I do think I would like to try and find new seals for the pump. I found one thread that talks about rebuilding the pump, and finding a seal for the main piston, however no part number was provided.

    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...mp-leak-repair

    It really looks like we can replace that main piston seal without removing the pump at all. If I can actually track down what seal we need, I will put the part number in this thread.

    Jose
    Last edited by DaHose; 11-16-2019 at 03:50 PM.
    1987 M6
    Livin the dream!

  20. #70
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    128
    My Cars
    2007 BMW 530xiT
    Let us know what you find out about the pump seals. I also have a slow leak and need to fill up every 6 months or so. My leak seems to be coming from the bottom plate of the pump body so I think the leak is an internal seal.

  21. #71
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    1
    My Cars
    535i wagon 2010

    thanks, DaHose et al

    Removing the interior trim panels was a big hassle (This was first time doing this and it took hours!), but instructions and photos were really helpful. Thank you. The tailgate of our 2010 535i is working Now that we've done it, I think it will go much faster next time, which it sounds like will be a regular maintenance task.

    We used BMW's hydraulic fluid for convertible tops. Small bottle ~ U.S.$32

    Still a bit worried about the leak. Like BostonJon's, the leak appears to be from the bottom plate. Might give the folks at Top Hydraulics - https://www.tophydraulics.com/ - a call to see what they can tell me about the BMW tailgate pump.
    Last edited by rincat; 01-02-2020 at 10:12 AM.

  22. #72
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    Grand Rapids, MI
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    3
    My Cars
    2008 BMW 535xi
    Thank you DaHose! Perfect instructions, took about 30 mins, most of which spent on removing the reservoir off the pump, rest was easy peasy.

  23. #73
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    Napa, Ca
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    1,796
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    1987 M6
    Woohoo! Another beer fund rescued!

    Joze
    1987 M6
    Livin the dream!

  24. #74
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    London UK
    Posts
    1
    My Cars
    BMW E61 M5

    Thank You

    Love my M5 Touring but this boot operation has been winding me up for years. Finally got a price £2,000 for parts. Tried to inverse pump but i was worried about taking so much trim off and to be honest I couldn't when I tried.

    Now I know how this takes 20 mins. I didn't bother draining, just topped up the reservoir.

    Thanks again


    Quote Originally Posted by DaHose View Post
    Hey, everyone. I just fixed a tailgate problem that I thought would be worth writing about. My wife and I bought our family a 2006, 530xi sport wagon earlier this summer and it started having problems fully opening the tailgate when it got cold this winter. On top of that, the pump seemed a bit noisy altogether when we got it. I did a bunch of looking around to get information, and decided the problem was most likely a pump low on fluid. I opened up the rear/left side compartment and sure enough the bottom was sticky, under the pump was sticky and you could see a pinkish film on the bottom of the pump assembly. The fluid level was definitely low and I decided I would tackle the job of filling it.

    I found a number of recommendations online and the best one seemed to indicate a couple hours worth of pain in the butt to unscrew the bracket with the whole pump assembly, fill it upside down and go through a whole process of adjusting the level until things were right. Well, I came up with a MUCH simpler process that I think would take about 30 minutes now that I can provide a parts list and straightforward procedure.

    First, you need to gather the following parts. A can of Royco 756 oil, a marinade injector, two sections of 1/4" tubing and a 2" hose clamp.

    Attachment 620909

    Open the tailgate of the car, open up the left side panel and pull back the inner lining reveal the pump and the reservoir. Notice that it has a non-reusable clamp holding the reservoir to the pump. Use a pair of wire cutters to take off the clamp. I grabbed one edge and just opened it up. Now you can use a plastic tool to pop the reservoir off the pump body.

    Attachment 620910


    You can then use the marinade injector with a small piece of the tubing on it, to suck out any oil left in the reservoir. Once the reservoir is empty, you can just tilt it and slide it out WITHOUT REMOVING A SINGLE MOUNTING BOLT FOR THE PUMP ASSEMBLY!!


    Attachment 620911

    With the reservoir removed, carefully put the longer sections of 1/4" tubing on the two siphons sticking out of the pump body. Notice how the one on the left (closer to the main pump body) has all the air bubbles? That is the overflow. Put both hoses into an empty container and close the hatch. That will drain out any fluid left. If any comes out of the pickup hose, drain out the line. Now leave the overflow hose in the dirty oil container, and put the pickup hose into a container filled with plenty of hydraulic oil. You will now cycle the liftgate open/closed a few times. It will refill with fresh oil and you will get extra coming out of the overflow, creating bubbles. Cycle as many times as necessary to make sure the overflow has fresh oil in it.

    Attachment 620912

    The system has now been primed and is ready to be refilled and closed up. Take off the pieces of tubing from the pump and slip the reservoir under the pickup/overflow tubes. Let the reservoir rest flat on the panel below the pump, and there is enough gap between the edge of the reservoir and pump to slip in the end of the 1/4" hose. Fill the reservoir with fresh oil, using the injector. I added 53cc of oil, but I think that was a bit much. I recommend 50cc instead. When you have added the oil, just carefully lift the reservoir up and clip it back onto the pump.

    Attachment 620913


    Finish by securing the reservoir with the new, reusable screw clamp and you are done. Close everything back up and revel in having refilled the pump so quickly and easily. If you refill and it leaks out again really quickly, then your pump might need new seals. When I was researching the pump issue, I came across a web site from someone who can rebuild our pumps for $300. http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/b...gate-pump.html From what I see on my pump, I bet rebuilding is just a matter off popping off the square plate at the bottom of the pump and replacing a bunch of O-rings.

    Well .... hope this post is helpful to some of you out there.

    Jose

    Jose

  25. #75
    Join Date
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    1987 M6
    It's awesome how this thread keeps helping people!

    Yay for DIY!!!!!

    Jose
    1987 M6
    Livin the dream!

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