If it isn't leaking now, I don't see a problem. They don't seem to leak from the reservoir. The symptoms say fluid change to me.
Jose
Thanks Jose,
I hope you right. I'll try to do your trick just need to order everything first! I'll get back with the result when its all done!
Hi,
Is there anyone here who knows what kind of symptoms
the tailgate gets if the amount of oil is slightly above the + symbol?
Was going to attach a photo, but didn`t understand anything about the "URL-stuff...."
Hi Jose
I have 2006 530 Xi (wagon) with 146,000 miles and I have been suffering with the tailgate problem for last 12 months. I will try your solution once it warms up a bit in Michigan later this year. Based on your notes, I checked and looks like your solution should fix the problem. Will keep you posted. Thank you for providing excellent details on how to refill the oil.
Thank you to Jon325iT too for add more details and pictures.
I will be ordering my oil this weekend. My 2008 535xi needs this terribly.
Also beware that at the top of the hydraulic strut is a distance sensor, the sensor reads the distance as the hatch opens. This sensor can fail, so the hatch only opens halfway, because the sensor is sending the signal that it thinks it is fully open. The sensor travel can be read with autologic
HI All,
I just wanted to send a big THANKS to dahose for posting this. I just did it to my 2008 535xi. It wouldn't open on really cold days. The strap wrench helped too - thanks for the tip.
One more thing to add-I got 1/4"ID hose, this it TOO big. You need 1/4" hose with .170" ID.
Again - THANKS!!! I haven't tried it it really cold weather yet, but my reservoir was almost empty, with a stain under it. I hope I get a few more years out of this.
Another $800 - $1000 saved! WOOHOO!!!!
Now go get some beer and barbecue with those savings.
Jose
Last edited by DaHose; 01-24-2017 at 01:07 AM.
1987 M6
Livin the dream!
Related problem? I refilled the reservoir, it seems to be workign better. Now the top part of the hydraulic arm keeps popping off the ball joint. I imagine there is some small spring or something that is supposed to hold it in. Any ideas?
Turned out the ball of the joint was worn out. I replaced this, and seems to be working properly again, I think.
Well done write up. Serviced mine the moment hydraulic oil arrived. It's nice to have the tailgate operational.
Sweet! Another win for the little guys!
Jose
1987 M6
Livin the dream!
I just want to thank Jose (aka DaHose) for this post. You Sir are a Genius! Saved me a lot of time with your method. Thank You!
Glad it helped you.
José
1987 M6
Livin the dream!
Thanks for this. New e61 owner here (previously had an e46 wagon). So this is kind of a double edged sword for me... I followed the guide and was able to fix the hatch lift problem but now I think the wiring may have broken because its throwing all sorts of warnings related to hatch lighting (plate bulbs, reverse light etc). Im guessing the hatch wiring is broken... any DIY to cover fixing it on here?
Oy! If you have the dreaded broken harness, that will be a bugger to fix.
Jose
1987 M6
Livin the dream!
I had to do the harness on my e39. Best not to put it off as to avoid any further wiring damage.
Good morning from Italy!
I am thinking to replace fully the hydraulic oil of the tailgate motor, and not just add the missing portion up to level.
Does anyone know the amount of oil needed for full replacement? (I have easily available 100 ml, but may be is not sufficient).
Thanks,
Andrea
I had the same problem with the pump not drawing in the clean fluid. I noticed that the 1/4" ID (inner diameter) tubing seemed a bit too loose around the pump intake.
Using calipers, I measured the pump intake to be 5.0 mm diameter and decided to get some 3/16" (4.76mm) ID clear vinyl tubing for a tighter fit. The 3/16"
sed calipers to measure the diameter of the pump intake. I also used a plastic zip tie to clamp the hose tightly to the pump intake. With this setup, the pump finally could draw in the clean fluid.
I just fixed my liftgate by following the instructions in this post. Thanks Jose and Jon for the detailed writeups and photos!
I'm in the San Jose, CA area. I have some leftover fluid. Message me if interested.
Last edited by waddles; 05-07-2017 at 10:01 PM.
I got frustrated trying to remove the reservoir, so decided to do this the easy way. I drilled a small pin hole in the reservoir and filled it to the full mark (+) with a very small gauge needle attached to my marinade injector. I replaced the clamp with a much wider one that actually covers the hole I drilled. Tail gate works fine now. We'll see how long it lasts. Now I have to put all this krap back together again. IMG_0631 (900 x 675).jpgIMG_0632 (900 x 675).jpgIMG_0633 (900 x 675).jpghyd. res.jpg
is there a reason you took apart half the car? i suppose it doesnt matter now, but for future reference you can dismount the pump without taking out any trim. the top bolt is a pain but it can be reached with standard tools. im not sure i would want a hole in the reservoir - dont you think the fluid would slosh around during driving a seep out over time? maybe a small piece of a wide rubber band under the new clamp over the hole would provide some extra insurance against leaks.
I would hardly call it taking apart "half the car". I had to take the inner panels out to get access. I also had to remove two electronic modules and move them out of the way to access the reservoir. I didn't want to dismount the pump, just access the reservoir. If the fluid level goes down again, I'll simply fill it again. I like the idea of using a piece of rubber under the clamp. If I have to service the reservoir again, I'll do that. The hole I drilled is so tiny, I don't think it will be a problem sloshing out.
Cheers, Elliot
I have a small update. It's been almost
2 years since I posted this thread, and today I needed to top up the oil again. I removed the reservoir and found a really small amount of muck, so I cleaned it out. To refill, I actually did what Elliot suggested. While the reservoir was out I drilled a tiny hole that I could fill with a syringe, and a screw sealed it up just fine. I agree that leaving it open is a bad idea. It could seep, but of more concern is that it will evaporate when the car gets hot.
It was definitely a good idea to pack some paper towels under the pump. They soaked up all the oil, but theres no sticky residue on the inside. As slow as the leak has been, I am totally comfortable just refilling it again.
Jose
Last edited by DaHose; 11-20-2017 at 01:17 AM.
DaHose: I'm new to the forum but I really appreciate your engagement! As it relates to the Royco 756 fluid, Amazon only carries it by the gallon and it runs about $60 including shipping. They also carry an AC-Delco product that is specifically for liftgates: ACDelco 10-5041. Only a quart and $38 on Prime, but I can't imagine needing a gallon in my lifetime. Do you think this stuff would work or am I better off not being cheap and sticking with the Royco? Thx again.
I would not be cheap, and stick with the Royco. That is an aerospace grade hydraulic oil. On the plus side, I found a quart of Royco for $13 a quart at the link below, although it's backordered till the end of the month.
http://www.skygeek.com/royco-756-air...oaAoWjEALw_wcB
I didn't open my quart of oil up completely. I punched a hole in the side, right near the top with a nail. Then I can shake out the oil I need for a fill, and seal the can back up with a small piece of duct tape. When the job is done, put the oil away until you need it again in a couple of years. As noted in my last update, definitely remove the reservoir and clean things out, but drill a tiny hole you can fill with a syringe, and then seal it back up with a very short screw. That is a GREAT way to be able to refill in the future.
Jose
Last edited by DaHose; 01-23-2018 at 01:25 AM.
1987 M6
Livin the dream!
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