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Thread: How to refill the liftgate pump on an E60 - Tailgate not opening fully

  1. #1
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    How to refill the liftgate pump on an E61 - Tailgate not opening fully

    Hey, everyone. I just fixed a tailgate problem that I thought would be worth writing about. My wife and I bought our family a 2006, 530xi sport wagon earlier this summer and it started having problems fully opening the tailgate when it got cold this winter. On top of that, the pump seemed a bit noisy altogether when we got it. I did a bunch of looking around to get information, and decided the problem was most likely a pump low on fluid. I opened up the rear/left side compartment and sure enough the bottom was sticky, under the pump was sticky and you could see a pinkish film on the bottom of the pump assembly. The fluid level was definitely low and I decided I would tackle the job of filling it.

    I found a number of recommendations online and the best one seemed to indicate a couple hours worth of pain in the butt to unscrew the bracket with the whole pump assembly, fill it upside down and go through a whole process of adjusting the level until things were right. Well, I came up with a MUCH simpler process that I think would take about 30 minutes now that I can provide a parts list and straightforward procedure.

    First, you need to gather the following parts. A can of Royco 756 oil, a marinade injector, two sections of 1/4" tubing and a 2" hose clamp.

    bmw530liftgaterefillsupplies_zpsuzjewqky.JPG

    Open the tailgate of the car, open up the left side panel and pull back the inner lining reveal the pump and the reservoir. Notice that it has a non-reusable clamp holding the reservoir to the pump. Use a pair of wire cutters to take off the clamp. I grabbed one edge and just opened it up. Now you can use a plastic tool to pop the reservoir off the pump body.

    bmw530liftgatereservoirlevel_zpsco7nyszh.JPG


    You can then use the marinade injector with a small piece of the tubing on it, to suck out any oil left in the reservoir. Once the reservoir is empty, you can just tilt it and slide it out WITHOUT REMOVING A SINGLE MOUNTING BOLT FOR THE PUMP ASSEMBLY!!


    bmw530liftgatefiller_zpsrfrtqswa.JPG

    With the reservoir removed, carefully put the longer sections of 1/4" tubing on the two siphons sticking out of the pump body. Notice how the one on the left (closer to the main pump body) has all the air bubbles? That is the overflow. Put both hoses into an empty container and close the hatch. That will drain out any fluid left. If any comes out of the pickup hose, drain out the line. Now leave the overflow hose in the dirty oil container, and put the pickup hose into a container filled with plenty of hydraulic oil. You will now cycle the liftgate open/closed a few times. It will refill with fresh oil and you will get extra coming out of the overflow, creating bubbles. Cycle as many times as necessary to make sure the overflow has fresh oil in it.

    bmw530liftgatepumpnozzles_zpsncodxseb.JPG

    The system has now been primed and is ready to be refilled and closed up. Take off the pieces of tubing from the pump and slip the reservoir under the pickup/overflow tubes. Let the reservoir rest flat on the panel below the pump, and there is enough gap between the edge of the reservoir and pump to slip in the end of the 1/4" hose. Fill the reservoir with fresh oil, using the injector. I added 53cc of oil, but I think that was a bit much. I recommend 50cc instead. When you have added the oil, just carefully lift the reservoir up and clip it back onto the pump.

    530xitailgatepump_zps4cttnzsi.JPG


    Finish by securing the reservoir with the new, reusable screw clamp and you are done. Close everything back up and revel in having refilled the pump so quickly and easily. If you refill and it leaks out again really quickly, then your pump might need new seals. When I was researching the pump issue, I came across a web site from someone who can rebuild our pumps for $300. http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/b...gate-pump.html From what I see on my pump, I bet rebuilding is just a matter off popping off the square plate at the bottom of the pump and replacing a bunch of O-rings.

    Well .... hope this post is helpful to some of you out there.

    Jose

    Jose
    Last edited by DaHose; 01-23-2018 at 01:18 AM.

  2. #2
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    Thanks for info!

  3. #3
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    Boston, MA
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    2007 BMW 530xiT
    excellent write up. thank you.

    i have a small pile of sticky goo under the storage compartment on that side of the car. i always assumed it was something that the previous owner had spilled down there. now im realizing that it is likely a slow leak in the pump fluid. it's now on my list to check out this weekend.

    thanks again.

  4. #4
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    Thanks, DaHose. Worked like a charm on my '07 530Xi wagon!

  5. #5
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    Excellent! How long did it take? Now that we have a process with minimal teardown, I figured it should take about 30 minutes if you have all the parts ahead of time.

    Incidentally, we have been getting tons of rain the past couple of weeks and the battery box ended up getting flooded. My research says it is probably the sunroof drain, so I pulled off the end plug and confirmed the drain is flowing freely on both sides and at the fronts. I will know if that did it this weekend, as we are supposed to get a lot more rain on Saturday.

    Jose
    1987 M6
    Livin the dream!

  6. #6
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    85 M635, 98 Z3, 00 528iT
    Hey Jose,

    Funny I should run into you here! I am in the research phase of looking for a new (to us) wife-mobile and have been pondering an e61. We've been running an e39 528iT which now has ~210k miles. Any thoughts you can share on e61 ownership would be most appreciated. Currently looking at 535 versions.

    BTW, nice write up, but then you've been doing the same in the e24 forums for awhile now, so I'd expect nothing less.

    Take care,

    Eric
    Last edited by eric1ono; 01-31-2016 at 09:12 AM.

  7. #7
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    Hey there, Erik. How about I make a new post to share what owning an E61 has been like as a third owner? I will try to get that posted tonight.

    As far as this tailgate issue, the hydraulics look pretty solid and easy to work with. I would not worry if an E61 I was looking at was low on fluid. As long as there is SOME fluid cycling in there, the pump gears should be in good shape and easy to rehabilitate.


    Jose
    1987 M6
    Livin the dream!

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    Willis, TX
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    2007 530ix Sportwagon
    Great idea DeHose, but I had a hard time trying to get a plastic tool, or anything else in to pry the reservoir off. I finally got my strap wrench and used that to grip the reservoir and just gave it a few good shoves and it pulled off. The O-ring holds it on there quite securely and it takes some force to overcome it.
    The plastic tubing I had bought didn't fit the tubes, so I ended up dumping the old oil and gook out of the reservoir and placing it in its position to replace it, but offset so that I could get a turkey baster tip in to fill the reservoir (if you fill the reservoir first, most will spill out when trying to get it under the metal tubes to replace it). I cycled the lift gate down and up a few times, then took the reservoir off and replaced the oil with more fresh oil, and put it back on and repeated the cycling. Repeat one more time. It helps to let the foam disappear between actuations. Top off the reservoir as best you can before final assembly. Once installed it may take a few actuations to get it working smoothly. Works great!
    You can also use a plastic measuring cup that is made for measuring detergent for your washing machine. Cut the front end of it down with scissors enough to fit it under the tubes, fill it with fluid and operate several times. Suck most of the fluid out with a baster and remove it and install and fill the reservoir.
    Hyd res removal.jpgHyd res strap wrench.jpg
    Last edited by Ken356; 03-19-2017 at 07:51 PM.

  9. #9
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    Way to get the job done, Ken. Now do something fun with the $500 you just saved by not having a shop do the job. :-)

    Jose
    1987 M6
    Livin the dream!

  10. #10
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    R12GS 535xiT 98 M3 ZHP
    Great DIY, thanks for taking the time to post it.

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    Chapel Hill, NC
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    BMW 530
    Thank you for this excellent post. I am amazed at the difference that a few ounces of fluid can make. I lived with the problem for two years before seeing these threads, and particularly this one. I followed your instructions, and then added my own little touch.

    Thinking that I will eventually need to do this again, I drilled a small hole in the reservoir tank, approximately 1/2 inch below the top, and about 10 degrees offset from the flat side of the pump. ( I drilled the hole while the tank was removed, so that I would not damage the siphon tubes, etc.)

    The hole was just slightly larger than the needle of the marinade injector. I then used a self-tapping screw to plug the hole.

    I secured the reservoir with the reusable screw clamp, after realigning the reservoir with my original marks, and ensuring that the self-tapping screw was not binding as I re-installed it.

    Then, I was able to remove the screw, and fill the reservoir using the marinade injector, with the reservoir in place.

    I plugged the hole with the screw, and ran my tests. When I was satisfied that everything was running smoothly, I checked the level in the reservoir, and buttoned everything up.

    If I do have the problem again, all that I will need to do is remove the screw.

    Thanks again for helping to resolve a very irritating problem.

  12. #12
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    I had the thought to do the screw as well. That should also allow for pulling the drain to flush it in place. In the end, replacing the clamp was easy and allowed me to connect hoses that make the flushing job more complete. Plus, I don't let the fluid run out and try to catch it in that cramped space. The two hoses neatly pull/drain into little containers. Either your or my way, it sure beats the BMW solution of tearing things down!

    Jose
    1987 M6
    Livin the dream!

  13. #13
    Join Date
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    Danville, CA, USA
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    1996 BMC 530xi
    Getting ready to do this task myself, and wondering whether (1) flushing is really necessary (thus saving even that 30 minutes... what can I say, I'm more than a bit lazy), and (2) if one drills into the reservoir and uses a self-tapping screw, it is likely to be able to withstand the pressure differentials as the fluid is moved around during operation? BTW, this is a wonderful thread you started, DaHose -- many karma points to ya!

  14. #14
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    I would have no problem with the self tapping screw approach, as far as pressures in the reservoir. I did worry about plastic shreds falling into the reservoir, so removing the reservoir was more appealing to me.

    Flushing to remove all the old, possibly gummed up fluid is just a few more minutes of effort. Don't skimp on doing such a simple job right.

    Jose
    1987 M6
    Livin the dream!

  15. #15
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    Cerritos, CA, USA
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    2007 530xi Wagon
    I just bought myself a 2007 530xi wagon last night. the only major issue was the auto-lift door not working and I was hoping to discover a nice DIY fix. This is an awesome post full of what looks like exactly what is needed. Thanks guys!
    Will pull the pump next week when I finally receive the car.

  16. #16
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    '02 325iT, 06' 530xiT
    Sorry to revive an old thread...

    Just curious if anyone sent in their pump to be rebuilt to that Tophydraulics outfit. My pump is still working but just barely. Worried it's been limping along too long without adequate fluid.

    As an aside, has anyone had to repeat the refill procedure? Curious how fast these tend to leak on average.

    Thank you for posting the DIY!
    Last edited by Jon325iT; 09-23-2016 at 08:37 PM.

  17. #17
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    It's been less than a year and I haven't looked at it since. The liftgate is still smooth and very quiet.

    I honestly don't think you will have to worry about rebuild, as the pump mechanism is very simple and robust. If it had any oil at all, it was staying lubricated. It just had no volume with which to operate and sounds terrible. I would just flush it well, refill, and see if it is good to go. If it leaks right away, then for sure pull it and rebuild all the seals.

    Jose
    1987 M6
    Livin the dream!

  18. #18
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    IMG_0357.JPG

    Just accessed the pump. The level doesn't seem terribly low but I do see evidence of leaked fluid. Would you all say this is low enough to cause problems?

    Not seeing a good way to pry that thing off! Going to give the strap wrench a try.


    Edit: Compared to Jose's filled reservoir pic above I would say mine is maybe only 10cc's low. Makes me wonder if I need to get the pump rebuilt.

    - - - Updated - - -

    11779.jpg

    In German...partial translation: "the correct filling in mounting position"

    - - - Updated - - -

    Flushed and filled to the appropriate level as shown in the photo above. Works beautifully.

    I have a few tips I'll write up later.
    Last edited by Jon325iT; 10-04-2016 at 05:45 PM.

  19. #19
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    Procedure notes:

    Accessing the pump: Remove the side panel on the driver's side of the tailgate. There is a mounting rack (think for satellite radio) that was the only thing that needed to be removed. Lift the carpet from the bottom, no need to remove or cut it. I held it out of the way with a bungee cord.

    Remove the metal clamp holding the reservoir: This took a little time for some reason. The area that is raised is where it's crimped on so that is where I focused my efforts. It can't be reused so just get it off of there - wire cutters do work.

    Removing the reservoir: The strap wrench worked great. A piece of nylon strapping twisted tightly would also do the trick. It's on there tight...but not that tight. Just need to be able to pull straight down.

    Removing the old fluid from the reservoir: When you tilt the reservoir to remove it some fluid may leak out depending on how much is left in there. Not a huge deal - can put some paper towels under it. I did use Jose's method of sucking out the fluid first and it worked great.
    IMG_0359.JPG

    Removing the old fluid from the pump/lines: I attached 1/4 inch inner diameter tubing. That diameter of tubing fit well but could have been tighter. I cycled the door up and down (I first activated the pump - pushing the button on the tailgate. I also tried to just manually open and close the tailgate). Very little fluid came out and it didn't suck up the clean fluid like I wanted. Not sure what I did wrong here. The tubing could have been tighter like a said. Might have to prime the pump by using a syringe on the clean side and inject fluid in? Not sure. Either way I couldn't get this to work for me. I took the tubing off and just cycled a few times with the cup on. There was some debris in the fluid so it felt good to flush the system out.

    Debris:
    IMG_0360.JPG


    Adding fluid: There is a cross on the cup that denotes where the fluid level should be. You can see in my pic above that the fluid wasn't too far below that level. So loss of even a little fluid does effect the function substantially. I found it difficult to add fluid with the syringe and tubing to that level. When the cup was positioned to go back on the pump fluid would leak out the back. I found myself craving a needle (say 14 gauge) for my syringe which would have fit nicely in the little grooves in the top of the reservoir with the cup almost pushed into place (which would avoid spilling). I used Royco 756 - ordered from Amazon. It's a big can, enough to do this job multiple times.

    In this pic you can see a little gap where a needle would fit to fill the reservoir with the cup nearly back in place.
    IMG_0361.JPG

    Edit: I would try to reinstall the cup with that "+" in a similar position so that the level is correct. I'm noticing in my final pic that the "+" is not exactly in the same spot (it's turned more to the front) which alters where the meniscus of fluid lines up. I probably overfilled a little based on this. Seems to be working OK but just something to keep in mind. I'll go back in the morning and turn it back closer to the original position.

    New/incorrect position of "+"
    IMG_0363.JPG

    Original/correct position of "+"
    IMG_0357.JPG



    I was going to drill a hole in the reservoir as was mentioned above. I noticed while cycling the pump that there was quite a bit of pressure built up as the excess air was removed. Would the self taping screw seal well enough to avoid air leaking in/out? I decided against it this round but if/when the fluid dips down I think this is the best long term solution. Would be interested to know how Kdkauffmann's fix is holding up.

    Final thoughts: Not sure it's worth 300 bucks for a rebuilt pump unless it's leaking out rapidly. But it will leak again obviously. I put down a paper towel under the reservoir and I'll check the level periodically. If I had to do this once a year, that wouldn't be too much trouble.
    Last edited by Jon325iT; 10-05-2016 at 01:05 PM.

  20. #20
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    To flush the old fluid out of the system I used long sections of the 1/4" tubing to connect the suction side of the pump to a container of fresh fluid, and the overflow to the discarded fluid. I pushed the door closed and then cycled it with the open/close buttons. The pump will draw in fluid and you will see fluid come out the overflow. Just make sure you cycle enough times, so that fresh fluid comes out of the overflow. Once you are all done with flushing, top off the reservoir, seal it up and you are done. The hydraulic cylinder seems to function in a push/pull manner, as the fluid level doesn't really change in the reservoir. It just needs a good supply to cycle through.

    Jose
    Last edited by DaHose; 10-05-2016 at 12:03 PM.
    1987 M6
    Livin the dream!

  21. #21
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    Thanks Jose! Your DIY saved me a ton of time and cash.

    Here are a few more photos for someone approaching this for the first time.

    Access:
    Driver's side rear:
    IMG_0366(1).JPG
    Need to remove this bracket holding what I think is the satellite radio thing if you have it. There are four 8mm bolts securing it.
    IMG_0367(1).JPG
    Just need to lift up the carpet:
    IMG_0368(1).JPG
    Hold up and out of the way with a bungee cord.
    IMG_0369.JPG
    Last edited by Jon325iT; 10-05-2016 at 12:43 PM.

  22. #22
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    Improvised strap wrench. Works great.
    IMG_0370.JPG

    Finished product with "+" aligned correctly.
    IMG_0372.JPG

    - - - Updated - - -

    After all this I think my pump is leaking pretty rapidly. The paper towel I left under there yesterday was nearly soaked with hydraulic fluid.

    So, I'll see if the O-rings rehydrate somehow with proper fluid circulating. I may be reporting back with news of a rebuilt pump from that outfit in Oregon.

    One last thing...is there a way to change the title of this thread to "E61" from "E60"? Touring pride!

    Thanks again to Jose and all the contributors to this thread.
    Last edited by Jon325iT; 10-05-2016 at 12:53 PM.

  23. #23
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    I wish you were nearby. We could take a look and see if it is possible to replace the seals on the pump without removing it. I swear it looks to me like you could just remove the end plate and get access to all the critical seals. Can you tell where it is leaking from? Is there a clear wet area on the pump?

    Jose
    1987 M6
    Livin the dream!

  24. #24
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    Would be an interesting project! Think it could be serviced without removing it? That would be worth it. It must be pretty basic maintenance if TopHydraulics does it for "only" 300 bucks.

  25. #25
    Join Date
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    2006 BMW 530xi wagon
    Hello,
    my tailgate is working fine from spring to the late fall seasons.As the weather gets colder so does the oil in the pump my gate won't close! I'm considering to change the oil just like to get a second opinion on how likely will my pump leak with the new oil!? Any thoughts on this? Please let me know,thanks guys!!!

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