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Thread: DIY 1995 M3 with an S54/Mk60, California Smog Legal!

  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bimmerman535i View Post
    I agree entirely. My plan with the CSL airbox is to swap the OE US stuff back on if the shops around here care, knowing that it'll pass that way without any issues.

    Definitely PM gpeterson on the DME stuff. My BAR ref didn't raise a fuss about the DME flashing and CVNs (and to be honest I haven't looked at them at all), so I can't help there. The only DME thing that I did was code out EWS, and I have the EWS modules to use if that becomes/had been an issue in my case, so probably wouldn't have been an issue. My ref did check that the VINs were flashed to all the right modules and were in agreement with each other and with what vehicle I was certifying as, but he didn't go further than that.

    Smog legality, DME/CVN stuff aside, is pretty easy nowadays. Gpeterson's CAN controller gets you the CEL, Andrew's harness gets you the plugin checks, so all you need to do is run factory US headers, install a E46 M3 secondary air pump, Z3M airbox and filter tube, and the DMTL/charcoal canister. Boom, done, emissions legal once you wire it up and code/align the modules appropriately. Functional DSC was waaaaaay more difficult and involved than emissions legality was.
    Funny how much the experience differs from ref to ref. I went to 2 different locations and neither cared about the VIN on any module other than the DME but they both cared about CalIDs/CVNs and told me all refs will be doing the same. It really sucks because the ref has no way to validate the CVN, mine wanted documentation from a dealer stating the DME was flashed to stock and listing the CalIDs/CVNs.
    Last edited by gpeterson; 04-25-2017 at 01:44 PM.
    S54 swap DME flashing - $100
    S54 swap CAN interface board (for proper A/C & check engine light) - $275
    e36 SAP sim/secondary air pump simulator:
    $75 - standard or $170 - plug & play
    e36 post-cat O2 sims: $115 shipped, plug & play

  2. #52
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    Thanks both of you for the info.

    Now that you run the CSL Airbox and presumably an air temp sensor instead of a MAF, do you go through the entire re-tune and reinstall of the MAF sensor for smog check?

    My other issue is that I will definitely not be willing to do an s54 swap using the OEM US spec headers. Would I be able to get certified if my cats were located in the midpipe?

    I don't have an issue with the biannual "funny" smog, my main value for being BAR certified would be in the case of selling the car within the state of CA. I really don't think the cost/headache benefit is there unless there is some sort of large criminal liability in unaware of.

  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by OptionlessM View Post
    My other issue is that I will definitely not be willing to do an s54 swap using the OEM US spec headers. Would I be able to get certified if my cats were located in the midpipe?
    Probably not. *Maybe* if you get euro headers & section 1, but depends on the ref. I'm probably going to do euro headers & section 1 and guess that my next smog in 2yrs will be fine. I think things looking clean & stock go a long ways.
    S54 swap DME flashing - $100
    S54 swap CAN interface board (for proper A/C & check engine light) - $275
    e36 SAP sim/secondary air pump simulator:
    $75 - standard or $170 - plug & play
    e36 post-cat O2 sims: $115 shipped, plug & play

  4. #54
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    I think I'm zeroing in on wanting my setup to be plug-in passable, but visually failable and not BAR certified.

    Would you be willing to take me for a ride in your S54 E36 some time? I am in your area I believe.

    As it sits now, Evolve Automotive has a pretty nice deal going on Airbox + DME "cracking" + Alpha N tune. I will just purchase an eBay E46 M3 DME to use.

    I would do some sort of aftermarket header, catted midpipe, and the usual modified wiring harness.
    Last edited by OptionlessM; 04-25-2017 at 02:56 PM.

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by OptionlessM View Post
    Thanks both of you for the info.

    Now that you run the CSL Airbox and presumably an air temp sensor instead of a MAF, do you go through the entire re-tune and reinstall of the MAF sensor for smog check?

    My other issue is that I will definitely not be willing to do an s54 swap using the OEM US spec headers. Would I be able to get certified if my cats were located in the midpipe?

    I don't have an issue with the biannual "funny" smog, my main value for being BAR certified would be in the case of selling the car within the state of CA. I really don't think the cost/headache benefit is there unless there is some sort of large criminal liability in unaware of.
    You might, but 95% likely not. I know a few people who have been able to get euro headers/cats and/or supersprint parts past a visual inspection, but that would not fly with the referee. I know there are a few smog stations that don't know E46s while some are very clued in, so...it's a crapshoot whether you'd get aftermarket parts past the visual inspection post-referee.

    It takes a day to swap the headers out. I'd go for the smog legal US headers, get through smog and the ref, and then toss on the fun parts.

    For the CSL airbox, I'm running the MAP sensor and full CSL conversion (no alpha/n nonsense). I didn't cut and splice any of the wires-- instead I just labeled and depinned the DME plug for the IAT portion of the MAF. My plan, should it be needed, is to simply swap the MAF IAT pins back in and run the CSL DME and MAP sensor with the regular manifold and Z3 airbox, negating the need for a retune entirely (OE IAT is in the MAF). I'm hoping to not need to do that but it'll take maybe 30 minutes to do.
    "Fear disturbs your concentration" -Sabine Schmit

    1995 BMW M3/2/5-- S54 + Mk60 DSC, California Smog Legal (Build Thread)
    1998 BMW M3/4/5 Alpine/Modena, Z3 Rack, otherwise stock-- DD without burbles
    2017 Chevy SS, Orange Blast Metallic, 6MT -- DD with burbles

  6. #56
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    I read these threads and am reminded of the many reasons why I don't live in CA.

    In WA there's emissions every other year which consists of someone sticking a probe in the exhaust and checking some things via OBD2 and that's it. As long as you don't do anything like remove the cats or generate a bunch of nasty CEL codes, you're good.
    Last edited by TostitoBandito; 04-25-2017 at 04:20 PM.
    1999 M3/2/5 - Titanium Silver - Track/Weekend Toy


  7. #57
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    Having a very hard time getting a shop to perform the swap for some reason. Any recs near the Bay Area

    or perhaps gpeterson would allow me to pay him to do it... heh.

  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by OptionlessM View Post
    or perhaps gpeterson would allow me to pay him to do it... heh.
    Haha, I'd consider it if I didn't have so much real work right now.

    I wonder what a shop would charge. I didn't track hours on mine but know it was significant. Quite a bit of that was wiring as I didn't use the z3m harness and ran everything through the factory connectors & firewall grommet. I guess developing the CAN board, fabbing A/C lines, learning to tig stainless exhaust, etc really added up for me. Would be much quicker if I were to do it again.
    Last edited by gpeterson; 05-13-2017 at 12:19 AM.
    S54 swap DME flashing - $100
    S54 swap CAN interface board (for proper A/C & check engine light) - $275
    e36 SAP sim/secondary air pump simulator:
    $75 - standard or $170 - plug & play
    e36 post-cat O2 sims: $115 shipped, plug & play

  9. #59
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    ^performance technique and/or edge motorworks should have no trouble doing such swap, though they will both charge a pretty penny


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  10. #60
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    Probably like a $25k swap right there, that's not worth it
    98 Estoril ///M3 4/6
    S54 swap CSL

  11. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by TH3 Shifty View Post
    Probably like a $25k swap right there, that's not worth it
    You think that much? Say 10k in parts and 15k labor?
    S54 swap DME flashing - $100
    S54 swap CAN interface board (for proper A/C & check engine light) - $275
    e36 SAP sim/secondary air pump simulator:
    $75 - standard or $170 - plug & play
    e36 post-cat O2 sims: $115 shipped, plug & play

  12. #62
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    My friend had his swap done at Ptech, after his s50 decided to blow a hole in the block. Cost him a little under $25k and they had the car there for months.


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  13. #63
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    Yeah I can't imagine paying labor for an engine swap. That's the sort of thing that you only really do if you can do it yourself. If you enough disposable money to pay the outrageous amount of labor for a swap, you buy a faster car instead.
    1999 M3/2/5 - Titanium Silver - Track/Weekend Toy


  14. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by th3turk View Post
    My friend had his swap done at Ptech, after his s50 decided to blow a hole in the block. Cost him a little under $25k and they had the car there for months.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    That is nuts. I don't want to be in the business of S54 swaps but value my time and would do it for much less than that. Motor + parts isn't cheap, the mechanical stuff doesn't require much skill & knowledge beyond the basics, maybe a few $k in labor to get things all wired up proper & clean, DME flash, smog legal.
    S54 swap DME flashing - $100
    S54 swap CAN interface board (for proper A/C & check engine light) - $275
    e36 SAP sim/secondary air pump simulator:
    $75 - standard or $170 - plug & play
    e36 post-cat O2 sims: $115 shipped, plug & play

  15. #65
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    Before I get into the update, I should mention it's been two years so I had to get a smog renewal. That was a massive pain in the ass. Most smog shops don't know the engine swap rules, even STAR certified ones. Most shops turned me away under the excuse of "I don't understand or want to understand please leave" while some asked for a "donation". I ended up finding one legit STAR shop that didn't know the rules, but called the BAR to ask how to test the car. They actually called the exact referee who had certified the car, and from there it was smooth sailing. After being turned away for modded car by the first shop, I pulled off the airbox and headers and reverted back to stock.

    So, moral of the story-- just because it's certified as legal doesn't mean the smog shops care or want your business. It would have been easier and less of a pain to go back to the referee for a smog check!

    Anyway. That grumble out of the way....

    Update time, because apparently I'm terrible at updating this more regularly!


    Over the last year I've been trying to drive the car as much as possible rather than mod it. I've been.....mildly successful at that. I ended up joining a Lemons team and have been spending most of my track time on that.
    Anyway, in semi-chronological order:

    Karbonius airbox + CSL DME conversion + TTFS tune
    Again, with the wiring....


    Airbox with snorkel,
    snorkel doesn't quite fit.


    The flap position sensor contacts the strut tower, so for now I've left the snorkel off. Eventual plan is to space the snorkel out.


    Friend from Lemons was at the shop.....


    One last glamor shot:


    And, the big question, how does it sound? Pretty darn good, IMO. Camera is a gopro suction cupped to the driver's headlight.
    https://youtu.be/OFQNAxqqOfo

    Blower motor....this sucked.



    Cracked subframe, woo.
    Replaced the AKG Poly motor mounts with a set of Bimmerworld Rubber ones while I was in there.


    Suspension clunking....
    No, was not because of this. Don't forget to use the RSM washers though, or this happens within about 300 yards.


    I haven't figured out what the issue was/is, still. My main suspects are either the Bimmerworld RTABs, the AKG subframe bushings, or the spherical bearings at the bottom of the MCS shocks. Everything else I've replaced, so....has to be one of those. My plan for the winter is to literally replace all the things in the rear before I kill it with fire.

    Gauges!
    Stack Oil Temp and Water Temp


    Differential!
    I got bored of the 3.15 long ago. However, it somewhat worked for a long time, and other things needed attention. That said, it became super clear that the clutches were worn out and the car would just spin tire when unloading the inside tire. Fun, but not very effective.
    So, m3forum to the rescue! Found a rebuilt 3.91 40% lockup unit locally, and with another friend hooking me up with a 4 bolt driveshaft (vs my 6 bolt), I had it installed and ready for the weekend's event.


    I also said screw it to the $17(ea) OEM diff bolts and bought a bunch of higher grade ones from McMaster....for $20 for 20.


    M3 output flanges are different from non-Ms. Confirmed.


    And, installed!


    Easy way to empty diff fluid? Grab allen socket, grab wrench, apply leverage.


    Exhaust!
    Installed Supersprint V1s and catted section 1.


    Look at all the space there's not!






    Now, what good are the headers and cats if there's nothing to attach to?
    Hmm... well I forgot to take enough photos. Jeff on the lemons team helped me merge a stock E36 M3 muffler to the front half of a hacked up E46 M3 Section 2. It looks ugly but man, it works really well. Quiet, no rasp, just....quiet. I'm using this as my Laguna exhaust and probably will use it as my daily driving one going forward.






    But, the inner child in me wanted a freer flowing exhaust for track duty. As luck has it, I found a damaged resonated Supersprint Section 2 on craigslist.


    Turns out the single pipe diameter is 3", which matches the AA Race exhaust I had before. I decided to match the rear muffler of the AA Race with the SS Sec2, but to not modify the AA Race. Here's how that went down.




    AA Muffler, 3" inlet, Burns Stainless Vbands are what I found to fit.


    The wizard at work


    All fabbed up!


    alternate view


    How does it sound? Nicely! Granted, airbox overpowers the dyno. I don't know if I have a good exhaust specific vid.
    https://youtu.be/vnKql6Pnwuo

    This might be the best exhaust video I've got right now. Thunderhill bypass with NASA HPDE3, setting a new PR although I've got quite a bit of time to drop before being TT competitive.
    https://youtu.be/dtMyrKpkO2E

    Shifter!
    You may notice I don't shift in the above video, I left it in 4th. That's because the pressure plate bolts had backed out about a mm and the car was grinding gears. I didn't take pictures of that repair, but it was a simple R&R and loctite.
    I did install this while I was in there, because racecar or something. Also because flying shift knob surprise gets old after a while.


    Oil Cooling
    The other thing the last few track days have identified was that my oil cooling setup is having issues. I'm seeing crazy high oil temps per the Stack gauge. I'm chasing this down still, but here's what I've done so far.
    First, there was no ducting. 2016 Thunderhill had very high oil temps, so I added little wings to the side of the cooler so that air couldn't spill around it.



    Then, after the winglets made no difference, before an early-2017 Thunderhill I added a scoop to force air into the cooler more directly. My theory was the air was being blocked by the AC condenser and aux fan.




    Well, that still wasn't that effective. Oil temps were skyrocketing as before, within 3-4 laps the stock CANbus temp sensor was reading 290F. So, I tried a bunch of things, including pulling the AC and using speed tape to seal the OE shrouds to the coolers.
    Look how much of the oil cooler was blocked by the AC!



    FREEDOM



    That brings me to this last track day in September at Thunderhill. None of the changes made any difference in oil temps, so there's more work to be done. Water temp has been 190-200F on track this whole time, so I'm not concerned about it at all. Just oil temp.

    Next Steps?
    Well....once the oil temperature issue is solved, there are a few things I have planned and have been acquiring parts for.
    --Euro E36 M3 AC conversion, which won't block the oil cooler.
    --Remove ALL poly from the car. I'm over the NVH.
    --Figure out whether the BW RTABs are the source of my clunking after removing the poly.
    --Drive the car a lot
    --convert the SMG in my garage to a 6 spd and install, so that I can do One Lap without driving myself insane.
    --Drive the car some more
    --Remote TTFS tune once the oil issue is solved, to finish dialing in the tune. Some weirdness was identified at the August dyno that I'm addressing before a) posting the dyno and b) retuning
    --Maybe a 3.5" exhaust?
    --fab up a splitter to go with the Brooks wing
    Anyway, thanks for reading, and I'll try to update more regularly going forward! As always, a huge thank you to Jeff, Dmitriy, and the Lemons group, Chris M, Kalim M, Chris P, and Ant N, Tony and Joe C at TC Design, and Tony Z at EDGE.

    It's also high time for an update for the mod list, so here's what I can remember.
    Engine
    ~76k mile S54
    CSL DME, CSL MAP, CSL IAT
    Karbonius CSL Rep Airbox
    Stock Cams
    Stock pullies (for now, am lazy)
    TTFS CSL tune (working on fine tuning before showing dyno plot)
    Bimmerworld Street/Track rubber motor mounts
    Bimmerworld dual fuel pump conversion, with E46 M3 fuel pump to feed engine

    Cooling
    C&R E36 fat radiator
    C&R E36 oil cooler
    Spal Fan
    no AC, for now, Euro M3 AC in progress
    Motion Motorsport underpanel.....with worn out hardware.

    Exhaust
    Supersprint V1 Stepped Headers
    Supersprint V1 Stepped Catted Section 1
    Customized Supersprint Resonated Section 2
    3" Active Autowerke Race muffler
    --also, customized OE Section 2 + US E36 M3 muffler--

    Transmission and Drivetrain
    ZF 310 5 speed transmission, original to car, have done 5th gear lean detents/pins
    Bimmerworld/Clutchmasters JB Racing lightweight flywheel/clutch package
    AKG DTM Shifter
    OE Rubber transmission mounts (the HD-ish version from I think a 750iL)
    3.91 LSD 40% lockup, hilarious fun except when going places

    Suspension and Brakes
    MCS 2WNR shocks/struts
    650/800 lb/in springs
    GC camber plates, (bushing) RSMs, sways, articulating rear perches
    Bimmerworld front camber shims
    Turner LCAs
    OE FCAB and fresh new control arms
    Bimmerworld Spherical RTABs
    AKG black poly subframe bushings
    AKG orange poly diff bushings
    Stoptech 332x32 x4 BBK
    Hawk DTC60 pads
    ATE Typ200 fluid
    DSC Mk60 conversion
    Z3 non-M steering rack
    Z3 steering column (for steering angle sensor)
    X-brace

    Interior
    Stack Pro-control Oil and Water temperature gauges
    Sparco Evo2+ driver seat
    Corbeau Seat-shaped-object for passenger
    VAC seat and harness mounting kits
    Schroth 6pt harnesses
    TCKline Roll bar
    Z3M S54 Cluster
    Speaker-shaped objects

    Wheels
    Wheels: round and shiny
    Tires: black, sometimes grippy

    Misc
    Working cruise control
    Working AC, until I pulled it for oil cooling testing
    Working E46 ABS and DSC, coded with M-track mode
    OBD2 and CANBUS converted for full diagnostic, coding, and emissions checking
    Certified as fully California Smog legal by the California BAR. Recently went through the first post-certification smog check, and was straightforward once I found a shop who knew the engine swap rules.
    Really really damn fun to drive. Not much of a looker, but damn if it isn't a blast to drive. It's been a great 8 years with this monster and I'm looking forward to many more!

    Photo credit: Dito Milian @ gotbluemilk.com
    Last edited by Bimmerman535i; 09-20-2017 at 05:31 PM.
    "Fear disturbs your concentration" -Sabine Schmit

    1995 BMW M3/2/5-- S54 + Mk60 DSC, California Smog Legal (Build Thread)
    1998 BMW M3/4/5 Alpine/Modena, Z3 Rack, otherwise stock-- DD without burbles
    2017 Chevy SS, Orange Blast Metallic, 6MT -- DD with burbles

  16. #66
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    Awesome!

  17. #67
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    what a beauty also you taught me how to use a 14mm allen socket and a wrench to take my diff fill plug off.

    I bought the dang 14mm Allen socket and it was too big so I just used a vicegrip to take my plug off, marred it all to heck.

  18. #68
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    joenationwide is offline Makes Cars Dance BMW E36 M3 Expert
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  19. #69
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    The clunking is the shocks. Really common for multi adjustables to make noise....
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  20. #70
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    Awesome build. I have an S54 and 6 speed for my E36 that I'm currently acquiring parts for to do this swap with the same goal, to be Cali legal. This is really helpful.
    -Brian


    -Varis-Hartge-Seibon-Umnitza-TRM--Mason Engineering-Zionsville-Mishimoto-Stewart-Conforti-BMW ///M/LTW

  21. #71
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    Thanks all! It's been a fun car to build over the years, still a ways to go to be ready for OLOA. Also a lot of driver mod is still needed, but that's the fun part.

    Quote Originally Posted by DocWyte View Post
    The clunking is the shocks. Really common for multi adjustables to make noise....
    Yes and no. They did make noise similar to the TCK DA rattle, but they got rebuilt, and the clunking was still there when I had stock shocks installed (that picture was from the first attempt at installing stock stuff). Post shock rebuild the only clunking left is from something else. My GC swaybar endlinks have also just now started to clunk, so that's nice.
    "Fear disturbs your concentration" -Sabine Schmit

    1995 BMW M3/2/5-- S54 + Mk60 DSC, California Smog Legal (Build Thread)
    1998 BMW M3/4/5 Alpine/Modena, Z3 Rack, otherwise stock-- DD without burbles
    2017 Chevy SS, Orange Blast Metallic, 6MT -- DD with burbles

  22. #72
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    I just realized it's been nearly two freaking years. Update pending-- went through post-BAR smog again, flying colors. Recently redid the rear suspension, added aero, redid the coolers and ducting......aiming for a big update after a shakedown at Buttonwillow this weekend.


    For now, have some CSL rawr.

    In-car at Laguna, setting a new fast lap for myself last year. Pre-aero, with audible CSL and rattles.



    [


    This is with the kludged together E36 M3 stock muffler exhaust. 300whp in this config, down ~25ish or whatever it was from the 3" setup.


    and, for shits and giggles, me autocrossing my SS (poorly)



    Also, pictures of pending update items:











    Last edited by Bimmerman535i; 05-23-2019 at 03:07 PM.
    "Fear disturbs your concentration" -Sabine Schmit

    1995 BMW M3/2/5-- S54 + Mk60 DSC, California Smog Legal (Build Thread)
    1998 BMW M3/4/5 Alpine/Modena, Z3 Rack, otherwise stock-- DD without burbles
    2017 Chevy SS, Orange Blast Metallic, 6MT -- DD with burbles

  23. #73
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    Damn! You're car is so freaking bad ass!

    These are goals for me for sure, Dave. One day I will have that same heart.

    Interested in Thill 6/1 and 6/2? I'm already signed up with NCRC!

  24. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by golgo13 View Post
    Damn! You're car is so freaking bad ass!

    These are goals for me for sure, Dave. One day I will have that same heart.

    Interested in Thill 6/1 and 6/2? I'm already signed up with NCRC!
    Thanks! I'm super excited and hesitant for Buttonwillow. I've only ever driven the lemons car there, so this'll be interesting.

    Lemme see how well the car survives BW before Thill. I also need to get the diff swapped in, rotors swapped, and ideally a non-eyeballed alignment! I've got a week, that should be fine...........
    Last edited by Bimmerman535i; 05-24-2019 at 05:00 PM.
    "Fear disturbs your concentration" -Sabine Schmit

    1995 BMW M3/2/5-- S54 + Mk60 DSC, California Smog Legal (Build Thread)
    1998 BMW M3/4/5 Alpine/Modena, Z3 Rack, otherwise stock-- DD without burbles
    2017 Chevy SS, Orange Blast Metallic, 6MT -- DD with burbles

  25. #75
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    Dude, that track is so good. It's my favorite. I bet you'll do a 1:58 at least with your set-up.

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