94 540i 6 spd swap finished now won't start

[jawnswagg3r]

you could always try pulling pin 66, i believe that that will allow your car to start if it is not starting because of an EWS issue..

edit: this should aonly be a problem if you have a 408 dme... if you wanna toss in a 404 dme i think i have a spare one i would sell you for cheap to try it. it has a b40 chip in it and using that plus pulling pin 66 would completely disable EWS. i'm just not sure if solely pulling pin 66 on a 408 would disable it and allow the car to start.. i think i read somewhere it would, but, idk lol.

[govee]

I am going to pull the OBC and swap the GM.

[AHenry014]

...edit: this should aonly be a problem if you have a 484 dme....

fixed for future searchers

[govee]

I have a 404 dme. If EWS was the problem what step could I take?

[demetk]

I have a 404 dme. If EWS was the problem what step could I take?

Cutting wire to pin 66 may help.

[mboor]

If you have a 404 DME then i HIGHLY doubt it's an EWS issue. IIRC, all ews does is immobilize the starter, not fuel and spark. This wasn't really an issue until EWS 2 on 1995 and up models with the 484 DME. I have a known good spare 404 DME you can borrow if necessary, PM me if you need it. I think Rick already swapped DME's, correct?

[govee]

Yes, DME was swapped with known good one.

[demetk]

If pin 66 is non-empty then it's probably being used by EWS even if it's the early version as explained in the pdf document "Drive Away Protection System (EWS)".

[mboor]

I am not fixed yet but I have moved further along. I am going to have to rethink my assessment of fuses. I visually inspected fuse 23 and it looked fine. After jumping pins 2 and 6 at the FP relay I was getting voltage at fuse 23 but not the FP. Out of frustration I replaced fuse 23 and my FP came on...... I am slowly showing just how dumb I am.
I know now:
I have 12v at the DME pins 26 and 56
I have 12v at pin 30 of the FP relay
I have 12v at pin 30 and 86 of the ECM relay

If I:
jumper pins 2(87) and 6(30) on the FP relay - the FP comes on
Jumper pins 8 (30), 2(87), and 5(87) on the ECM relay without jumper in FP relay location(relay installed) - the FP does not come on which means even though I have power at pin 8(86) from the ECM relay I don't have the ground from the DME (DME pin 1) at pin 4(85).


I think that means I am not getting a ground from the DME (pin 27) on pin 4 (85) of the ECM relay which means I don't get 12v at pin 8(86) of the FP relay. And even when I jumper the ECM relay I still don't get ground from the DME for the FP relay. The DME and/or an input to it are at fault! Where to go next?

jumper both relays at the same time?

I was bored at work so i studied the ETM for a bit. DME pin #1 going to the FP relay is labeled as an output, not a ground. I believe this is the "hot" signal wire going to the FP relay to turn it on/off. Also DME pin#27 is also labeled as an output, not ground. This should be the "hot" signal wire that activates the main relay. page 1210.11-a in the ETM has the 88 pin DME connector listed by pin#, description and function. Not sure if this helps.

I think your on the right path as far as it being a ground issue. Seems like you have 12v power at the right places. Possibly a grounding issue with the DME relay? I can't find where it picks up it's ground signal...

[govee]

I realize pin 27 is listed as an output but 12v is already sitting on pin 8 (86) of the ECM relay. The ECM relay needs a ground applied to pin 4 (85) to throw its switch which will bridge the 12v from pins 30 to 87. I believe in this case the "output" provided by the DME is ground. Any other signal application on that pin would be meaningless.....But I'm the guy that didn't find the bad fuse or wrong relays so I could be very wrong!

I do appreciate the help.

[demetk]

I believe in this case the "output" provided by the DME is ground.

I think that is a correct interpretation.

[mboor]

Normally I'd be in agreement about the output signal. My memory kept telling me that's not the case with these cars. My Ebox is half apart because I'm lazy, my dme was prime for some probing. I just went down to Frankenbimmer and With the ignition in position 2 (run), on pins 1 and 27 on the dme I'm getting 10.97v and 11.00v.

- - - Updated - - -

Sorry the pics are a bit fuzzy, it's hard to hold the multi meter probes, the flashlight, the dime and take a pic at the same time. I triple checked to make sure I had the correct pins on the back on the dme. The connector is numbered (kind of) so it's not hard to verify pin location.

- - - Updated - - -

Wait, lemme go verify pin 27 again. I might have been backwards on that one

- - - Updated - - -

CORRECTION. Pin 27 has 8.28v. My battery is weak also. Pin 1 is brown/violet wire and pin 27 looks to be brown? I couldn't verify all the way around the wire with out really tearing into the harness. Odd that pin 27 is brown (typical BMW color) and has voltage to it.

I was was checking the wrong pin for #27. The dome connector pins are labeled at the beginning of each row. Pin 1, 29, and 58 are labeled. You have to count down or up pins to font the appropriate one. I went the wrong way on 27.

I really hope this helps, and doesn't turn you around in circles. I hate BMW electrical issues. Electronics arnt my strong point, but I've stumbled thru my share of problems. If you need me to verify anything electrical wise I'd be more than happy to help.

[govee]

I just swapped GM's, crash relay, and jumpered FP and main relays and car will still not fire. The fuel pump is operating with these jumpers installed. I will check the same pins but I beleive my DME is not activating the tranisitors drawn in etm so the relays as well as other activities are not active so no start.

- - - Updated - - -

I went out and took the backshell of the DME connector so I could measure the V at pins 1 and 27 and something strange happened. I reconnected the the DME connector minus the backshell, turn the ignition to position 2 and started probing. I noticed at i point as i was shifting wires around and generally putting pressure on the bundle that I heard a clicking noise I hadn't heard before. I decided to use my jumper for starting the car in the diagnosis port and the car started! i reassembled the the connector and reattached it and she starts and ran like a champ. So much for finding something other than a bad/loose connection. Thanks all for the help.

[Smoky540i]

Great news! Love your build thread for this project...probably going to have to hit you for advice if I ever get the nerve to do manual swap.

[mboor]

Glad it's up and running, I'm sure it's a relief. Test drive?

[govee]

Great news! Love your build thread for this project...probably going to have to hit you for advice if I ever get the nerve to do manual swap.

Thanks for the kind words. I'm willing to help whenever I can.

- - - Updated - - -

Glad it's up and running, I'm sure it's a relief. Test drive?

Thanks for the help. No test ride tonight as there are some things that need buttoned up before I do that and I like to look it over in the daylight before driving.

[precisionmike1]

I have been watching the progress, glad to hear she is running!

[Bimmerick]

I just swapped GM's, crash relay, and jumpered FP and main relays and car will still not fire. The fuel pump is operating with these jumpers installed. I will check the same pins but I beleive my DME is not activating the tranisitors drawn in etm so the relays as well as other activities are not active so no start.

- - - Updated - - -

I went out and took the backshell of the DME connector so I could measure the V at pins 1 and 27 and something strange happened. I reconnected the the DME connector minus the backshell, turn the ignition to position 2 and started probing. I noticed at i point as i was shifting wires around and generally putting pressure on the bundle that I heard a clicking noise I hadn't heard before. I decided to use my jumper for starting the car in the diagnosis port and the car started! i reassembled the the connector and reattached it and she starts and ran like a champ. So much for finding something other than a bad/loose connection. Thanks all for the help.

When are WE going for a test drive...? That gremlin was tough to find; happy to hear you got it; now WE can focus on my car.

[govee]

When are WE going for a test drive...? That gremlin was tough to find; happy to hear you got it; now WE can focus on my car.

Soon, I hope. I still don't know if the clutch and tranny are installed correctly! I got my front calipers yesterday and they need to be installed.......stupid punch list. Let me know when you are ready to install the rearend.

[mgoods50]

I've been lurking and pondering. Glad too see it will be a straightforward repair!!!

[dwkestell]

I am having nearly the same issue - checking voltage at what I thought was the fuel pump relay (mine is brown too - see photo) and can't figure out why I have no power to the fuel pump. I've checked crank position sensor, etc. and replaced the fuel pump to no avail. In the second photo you can see the blue relay to the right of the white and brown ones.

I just ordered 2 - 4 prong relays (O2 and Fuel Pump) and 1-5 prong (Main Relay).

I think I can just swap the fuel pump and O2 relay to see if I have voltage at the pump / hear the pump run during cranking it.

E Box from Above.jpgE Box with relays exposed.jpg

[Mykk]

The fuel pump relay is grounded by the DME. On my '95 540i/6 it only turns on the fuel pump relay during cranking and running, there was no prime pulse. Different color relays have different pinout locations despite similar pin layout and isn't a good idea to swap around. If there is no ground present at the fuel pump relay during cranking I would suspect EWSII/Security or crank sensor problem. If you swapped 484 DME for 404 DME you'll need to cut and leave unplugged the green wire at DME pin 66, if you leave the green wire @ 66 plugged in on a 404 DME it won't fire