I just finished the swap on my 94 540i. The car ran and started fine before the swap. I started with a freshly charged battery. I have a checked my wiring to include the swapped engine start relay on the fuse box. I don't think I'm getting spark or fuel. Its hard to do some of the testing as I am alone, but my spark tester shows no spark. I replaced both FP and ECU relays. I have 12 volts at pin 30 of the FP relay. I jumpered 30 to 87 and I don't here the pump. Truth be told I dont ever remember hearing it when the car ran. I measued pins 1-2 on the CPS and its 530 Ohms. All other electronics seem to be working. I did have to reset the door locks after reconnecting the battery when I finished the swap. Tomorrow I am going to power the pump at the pump connector and BimmerRick is coming down with a CPS and DME to try swapping some parts and get a pair of different eyes on the problem.
Anything else I should check?
Thanks
Last edited by govee; 01-06-2016 at 08:22 PM. Reason: fixed problem
There is a wire to the automatic transmission shifter that must be grounded for the engine to start. The car must think it's in the "P"(park) position for the engine to start.
Last edited by Analog; 01-02-2016 at 10:18 PM.
E34 525it/5 S52
E30 318is slicktop M50T
F15 X5 50i M Sport
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=768139
Follow this tread for electric wiring
good luck
Andy, I just read thru the thread linked above by Carlito, and in post #29 the OP actually "un-splices" the "make the car always think it's in park" mod and the car still starts and runs. The OP says:
"So, update on the cruise control!! I found the blasted starter immobilizer relay up inside the chassis behind the kickpanel, bridged terminals 2 with 6 and cut the the Green/Red wire that I previously spliced together under the shift console and VOILA!!!!! I now have cruise control."
So still not sure what's going on with your car but I don't believe this is the answer. WRT swap wiring, I followed these instructions and documented them here. I did not do the "shifter in park" mod and my car starts.
Disclaimer: My car is a 95 with EWS2 and ASC and I know your car is a 94 non-EWS2, non-ASC, and currently non-running...!
Last edited by Bimmerick; 01-03-2016 at 05:27 AM.
Rick
<><
1993 325is - The New Daily?
1998 323is - The Daily Beater
1995 530i - The Alternate Beater
1995 540i/6 Touring - Lord Borthwick
1995 540i - The Donor & Parts Locker - Finally sent to the Crusher - RIP
Like Rick, I too followed the wiring instructions in his first link with no issues. My cars were a 6/94 530iT and a 7/94 540i/6. Looks like Rick is coming to give you a hand. I'm sure with his recent experience, you two will get it sorted. Good luck!
I followed the BMWE34 swap instructions. I have rechecked my work there and it is correct. I don't get the trans error and reverse lights work. Going to go try and power the fuel pump at its connector to see if come on.
- - - Updated - - -
Update.... We swapped DME and CPS with no change. I applied 12v to the fuel pump atthe pump and it turns on. we are struggling to to come up with other options. We are going to check the voltage at the fp relay and jump the relay.
Anything else we should check.
Rick
<><
1993 325is - The New Daily?
1998 323is - The Daily Beater
1995 530i - The Alternate Beater
1995 540i/6 Touring - Lord Borthwick
1995 540i - The Donor & Parts Locker - Finally sent to the Crusher - RIP
Did you check to see if 1. the dme was powering up and 2. the main relay was turning on?
demet
No, on the DME. Yesish on the relay. I attempted to listen for the relay to tick. I did not here anything. I am reading up on checking these items.Did you check to see if 1. the dme was powering up and 2. the main relay was turning on?
OK, the dme powers up the main relay so if the main relay isn't being activated then check the 2 power inputs to the dme. Pin 26 should always have power direct from the B+ junction point. Pin 56 is powered with the ignition in the ON position and is what turns the dme on.
demet
I have 12v at both pins.
I went out and checked a few items as some post and pictures I read were confusing me. I took the 2 bolts off to release the bracket that the relays are fastened to so I could look at the wiring underneath. I took a few pictures so I could come in and bounce the colors against the wiring diagrams. What I found is the pictures I viewed previously seemed to indicate the ecu relay is white, the fuel pump relay is brown and o2 relay is blue. Once i looked at the wiring diagram against the pictures I discovered my fuel pump relay as it was siting was in fact the blue relay and the the o2 is brown.With this new knowledge in hand I jumpered 2-6 on the newly discovered fuel pump relay and immediately the never heard before e-box fan came to life. I checked fuse 23 and here was 8v. The pump did still not come on, but we are getting some where! When i pulled the blue relay it was marked DME (hand written). Are they trying to trip me up!
I am not fixed yet but I have moved further along. I am going to have to rethink my assessment of fuses. I visually inspected fuse 23 and it looked fine. After jumping pins 2 and 6 at the FP relay I was getting voltage at fuse 23 but not the FP. Out of frustration I replaced fuse 23 and my FP came on...... I am slowly showing just how dumb I am.
I know now:
I have 12v at the DME pins 26 and 56
I have 12v at pin 30 of the FP relay
I have 12v at pin 30 and 86 of the ECM relay
If I:
jumper pins 2(87) and 6(30) on the FP relay - the FP comes on
Jumper pins 8 (30), 2(87), and 5(87) on the ECM relay without jumper in FP relay location(relay installed) - the FP does not come on which means even though I have power at pin 8(86) from the ECM relay I don't have the ground from the DME (DME pin 1) at pin 4(85).
I think that means I am not getting a ground from the DME (pin 27) on pin 4 (85) of the ECM relay which means I don't get 12v at pin 8(86) of the FP relay. And even when I jumper the ECM relay I still don't get ground from the DME for the FP relay. The DME and/or an input to it are at fault! Where to go next?
jumper both relays at the same time?
Last edited by govee; 01-05-2016 at 01:50 PM.
Did someone mix up your relays? The blue relay is for O2 heaters. White is for the DME and the orange/brown is for the fuel pump, at least the few M60 E34's i've worked on were that way. Just for shiggles, Did you try swapping the O2 and fuel pump relays and see if it starts?
"**if you suck at driving, it certainly could put you into a curb. Don't suck."
I have switched out all relays with different ones with no change.
If you're not sure of whether the relays are in the right place you need to identify placement by wire colors.
demet
I went through the wire colors and placement and they are correct. That is once I realized which relay was which.
So does the main relay turn on with the ignition?
demet
No it does not
After looking at that pic above, and searching the E34 ETM, i still think the fuel pump relay and O2 sensor relay are backwards. Looking at the wire diagrams, the FP relay does not have a red/blue wire, just a solid red wire and a red with white stripe (like the ones on the back of your blue O2 sensor relay). Going off my memory from last week when i was checking my O2 sensor relay and wiring, The wires coming from your fuel pump relay are the exact same colors as the wires i was checking for my O2 sensor relay. Swap locations between the FP relay and O2 relay and see what happens.
"**if you suck at driving, it certainly could put you into a curb. Don't suck."
Those pictures are before I realized that the relays were swapped. I know now that the FP relay is the lowest furthest relay from my fingers in the second picture.
I pulled the OBC relay thinking it was the DWA....SO obviously no change.
Last edited by govee; 01-05-2016 at 07:40 PM.
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