E36 M3 S50 turbo build

[flyfishvt]

Damn....that's a tasty nutritious treat

[Butters Stoch]

I have a bearing puller if someone needs to borrow. I would think auto zone or PepBoys has them to borrow.

[Trev51001]

Nice build so far. Always nice to see quality work and attention to detail. You can make your own pilot bearing removal tool with a piece of bar stock and a 3/8" bolt and nut. Any bolt will do as long as the hex head is just a tiny bit smaller than the center hole of the pilot bearing. Drill a hole in the bar stock. Put the bolt through it and attach the nut. Slide the hex head through the hole of the pilot bearing and slide it to one side so the lip of the head grabs the pilot bearing. Tighten the nut and pull out the bearing.

I didn't have any bar stock





A bit of inspiration for you after I saw that valve cover

I live right across from an Oriellys so I rented there tool for the day, but I must say that that's a beautiful engine bay! Mine wont look nearly as nice but it makes me excited for the matching valve cover to bay color, and definitely gives me an end result goal

[Trev51001]

Made a little progress today, got the crank seal from BMW ($58 way too much, should have planned ahead and ordered a new one a while ago) and got the lower timing components in along with the timing cover. Got the new pilot bearing installed with the rear main as well. I was going to get the oil pump installed but quickly realized that the bracket near the back wasn't bolted in during the short block assembly.. Going off memory here as it's one of the few things I didn't take a picture of but pretty sure it goes sandwiched between the bolts as in the picture so I'll have to look more into it tomorrow to get the torque specs for those bolts for when I take them off and then reinstall on top of the bracket. Other then that I decided to throw my new water pump in and and done for the day.

[Trev51001]

So I finally got the oil pickup tube bracket on and everything torqued down. Used loctite on the oil pump nut and made sure it was nice and tight.



Then I got my oil return threaded in on the oil pan and used some rtv around there in addition to the washer gasket it came with to make sure I don't end up with a leak. Threw on the oil pan as well.



Following the pan I flipped her around and got ready to throw the head on; got the ARP's hand tight and put on the cutring head gasket.



Next I finally got to take a peak at the cylinder head as it's been in packaging since I got it back, sure looks clean!



Then the fun part, got the head on and had a fun time fitting the ARP washers and nuts down onto the stud but eventually got them all on and did the first of three torque sequence following ARP's instructions.



Lastly, I decided to do a little mock up to see how she'll look and set on my valve cover and bolted up the manifold This really got me excited! Anyways thats as far as I got last night, tomorrow I'll pull the manifold back off and continue the torquing of the head and figure out how top dead center for the cams to be aligned correctly before timing.



- - - Updated - - -

By the way the external wastegate pipe will be modified, bought it simply as a starting point a while back.

[Trev51001]

Well I was going to do the timing today but quickly realized the machine shop that did my head work installed the exhaust cam where the intake cam should be and vise versa Honestly can't believe a mistake like this was made from a shop I had multiple people recommending to me (different than the shop that did my short block). So the head came back off and I'll be going into the shop tomorrow to have them correct their mistake. I could do it myself but I feel they should as I payed for it to be done right.

[Butters Stoch]

Well I was going to do the timing today but quickly realized the machine shop that did my head work installed the exhaust cam where the intake cam should be and vise versa Honestly can't believe a mistake like this was made from a shop I had multiple people recommending to me (different than the shop that did my short block). So the head came back off and I'll be going into the shop tomorrow to have them correct their mistake. I could do it myself but I feel they should as I payed for it to be done right.

Your going to ruin a HG for this ?

[rajicase]

Your going to ruin a HG for this ?

Seriously. .

Lol

[pbonsalb]

Would have been much quicker to just swap cams and trays.

[crazyyardie]

Cuttings already cut in the head of you already torqued it. That will need a resurface if u lift the head. Just swap the cams around. Don't pull the head

[rajicase]

Sounds like he already pulled the head; "Head came off"

[zJACKRABBIT]

bummer dude...

[hakentt]

Well I was going to do the timing today but quickly realized the machine shop that did my head work installed the exhaust cam where the intake cam should be Honestly can't believe a mistake like this was made from a shop I had multiple people recommending to me (different than the shop that did my short block). So the head came back off and I'll be going into the shop tomorrow to have them correct their mistake. I could do it myself but I feel they should as I payed for it to be done right.

You made a mistake by not calling the mistake out when you picked up the head, and it took you two days to find a mistake and it was so obvious. Cutrings already have cut the seating groove onto freshly surfaced head. Now you need another surfacing of the head and that will increase compression even more and you need another cutring gasket set. Project did not even start and is already doomed.

[Trev51001]

Just to clear things up here, I had already spoken to CES about the head gasket and they had told me it would be fine for reuse since a I wont be moving around the rings and gasket, b I had only done for the first torque stage on the head bolts so it wasn't very tight, and c the machine shop gladly took a slight amount of surface off the deck so it would be a fresh head again as far as that goes (I am the first person to be decking the head so no I am not worried about rasing the compression much as there's been very little that has had to be taken off both times). I dropped it off the at the machine shop this morning and had it back within a few hours. Yes I probably could have and should have taken out the cams while the head was on but I felt paying them for the service incorrectly done didn't quite seem right (even though I made work for myself by removing the head). Anyways I'm past that now the heads back on and the build will continue, problem solved.

[MisterM52]

Your going to ruin a HG for this ?

I second that.

[Butters Stoch]

Are you not using honda bondage ? Or RTV on the gasket in the timing area ?

[iRodD]

You made a mistake by not calling the mistake out when you picked up the head, and it took you two days to find a mistake and it was so obvious. Cutrings already have cut the seating groove onto freshly surfaced head. Now you need another surfacing of the head and that will increase compression even more and you need another cutring gasket set. Project did not even start and is already doomed.

[chikinhed]

Video Link: https://youtu.be/nsLmQF29OgU

LOL!

Sent from my GTX3582R

[rajicase]

Hahahah......

[Butters Stoch]

https://youtu.be/uspOs6F_JBo

[Trev51001]

This is gold, glad someone else saw it like I did

- - - Updated - - -

Got the motor just about wrapped up today before night came, still have to throw on a few sensors, valve cover, alternator, and thermostat but other than that she's close to all done. Figured just for point of reference I'd show again the head gasket and head after coming back from the machine shop yesterday:





And then after the three torque sequences for the head, installing the flywheel again for locking it at tdc, putting cam locks on, installing cam sprockets, and installing the vanos unit I've got to where I'm at now! (Vanos not pictured. Also through on the the oil filter housing, power steering, water pump pulley etc yesterday).



Side note: Someone asked if I had used rtv, I can assure you rtv was used anywhere and everywhere prone to leaking. Read way too many forum posts on people having leaks and I don't want to have to dig back into the motor if I don't have to so I've been generous on rtv!

[vollosso]

Wait what? Wait wait wait... Lets back up? Explain me this cam situation...?

[bmw328m52]

Wait what? Wait wait wait... Lets back up? Explain me this cam situation...?

Intake/exhaust cams were installed in the wrong locations. OP removed head to have the problem fixed by shop instead of just leaving the head on block. The head was now decked twice(increasing comp) and the same cutring gasket was used. I think he only followed first torque sequence for ARPs so they shouldn't have stretched. Tolerances should always be checked prior to reinstalling tho.

I didn't see any pics of the rtv around timing cover which is essential but looks like OP did it. If not, sadness awaits.

[Trev51001]

Intake/exhaust cams were installed in the wrong locations. OP removed head to have the problem fixed by shop instead of just leaving the head on block. The head was now decked twice(increasing comp) and the same cutring gasket was used. I think he only followed first torque sequence for ARPs so they shouldn't have stretched. Tolerances should always be checked prior to reinstalling tho. I didn't see any pics of the rtv around timing cover which is essential but looks like OP did it. If not, sadness awaits.

Yes exactly. And studs were removed prior to reinstall to verify they hadn't stretched and we're still within arp's specs. Also it is a bit hard to tell in the pictures but if you look back further on previous pictures you can see the red around the side of the timing cover from rtv.

[Trev51001]

Quick update: Been quite busy with school and work but got a few pictures during my night of wrenching on the m3. First got the clutch on and was the last picture before attaching the transmission as well. (The white is simply paper towls so no dirt or grime got in the cylinders or oil pan while putting the long block in)



And then after playing jenga for a bit to get the right angle managed to get the motor and tranny in the car. Bolted up the drive shaft and motor mounts and re installed the valve cover with new plugs (read a few recommendations for ngk 4554 gap between .021-.026 so that's what I went with). I'll get all the sensors connected tomorrow along with putting in all new coolant and power steering hoses in. Waiting to get my new slave cylinder here on Tuesday and then I'll bleed and still that as well. Getting close to get to mock up the intercooler and then cut and weld the charge piping which should be fun!