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Thread: E36 M3 RallyCross build!

  1. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by 95maxrider View Post
    Are you sure that will kill the backup light in the cluster?
    It worked in my 93 325is.

  2. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by 95maxrider View Post
    Although, the back seat is already up, so I can easily disconnect the module. Are you sure that will kill the backup light in the cluster?
    Quote Originally Posted by jakermac View Post
    It worked in my 93 325is.
    and my 95 M3.
    always trying to make it lighter and faster

    ^^former build: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-neglected-M3/
    current build: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...car-build.html
    instant grams: doktor_b

  3. #128
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    RTAB brackets arrive yet?

    I put my rear suspension back together yesterday, so hopefully I will be aligning this sucker within the next couple of days...

  4. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by tptrsn View Post
    RTAB brackets arrive yet?

    I put my rear suspension back together yesterday, so hopefully I will be aligning this sucker within the next couple of days...
    The brackets arrived, but they don't work with my Bimmerworld sealed bearings in the trailing arm. They would work perfect with stock or poly bushings, but the BW ones are too wide and bind. I'm having a buddy I race with modify the stock ones to work, so if anyone wants to buy the aftermarket ones, they are for sale!

  5. #130
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    Ah, bummer!!! Is the fix to the factory ones as simple as just slotting out the holes with a die grinder, or is there more to it?

  6. #131
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    Quote Originally Posted by tptrsn View Post
    Ah, bummer!!! Is the fix to the factory ones as simple as just slotting out the holes with a die grinder, or is there more to it?
    He is going to weld on another plate of metal on the underside that is larger than the original piece, weld the two together, then notch out the holes. I believe that if you just slot the holes you pretty much run out of material and the ends will be open and thus not be very strong.

  7. #132
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    Excellent!!

  8. #133
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    Can anyone help me figure out why my exterior temperature is still reading -35* after I installed a new sensor?

  9. #134
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    Disconnect neg terminal on battery for 5 minutes so sensor can recalibrate. If that doesn't work, check voltage to sensor along with the wiring.

  10. #135
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    I found a break in my sensor wire partway down the line, the wire insulation gets brittle and the copper corrodes.

  11. #136
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    I did my alignment over the weekend, and now I understand the relationship between rear camber and toe. It made me curious why you didn't dial out some of your rear negative camber to help your toe-in situation? Maybe you wanted that much negative camber in the rear, but it seems like a bit more than you need on a rally car with nice solid suspension links like you have...

    Interestingly (to me anyway lol), I initially roughed in my rear camber at zero, and with the RTAB bracket bolts in pretty much the same place as they had been the car had about a 1/4" toe out on my toe plates. With the RTAB brackets levered all the way inward, I ended up having to go to -.5 degrees rear camber to get my 3/32" toe in. That will work!

    EDIT: One other little note, I did take the car for a quick ride and donut with the rear toe out and zero camber. Strangely, it drove really quite well and stable like that..... :/
    Last edited by tptrsn; 07-18-2016 at 09:16 AM.

  12. #137
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    Alright, I'll post up an update about the alignment later, but for now I'm trying to get this thing through inspection so I can drive it, but even after I unplugged the airbag module under the back seat while the battery was disconnected the air bag light still comes on on the dash. Is there a second air bag module that I also need to unplug?

    Also, after leaving the battery disconnected for a while, the temp sensor still reads -35*, so I guess the problem lies elsewhere.....

    Edit: While I'm asking questions, I might as well ask for tips on removing the gauge cluster. I followed the instructions in the books I have as well as some videos, but no matter what I do, I can't get enough room to disconnect the plugs on the back of the cluster. The instructions say to rotate the steering wheel, but no matter how I do it, the cluster won't come out far enough for me to get behind it. Does it have anything to do with the 3 spoke steering wheel?
    Last edited by 95maxrider; 07-21-2016 at 11:20 AM.

  13. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by 95maxrider View Post
    Alright, I'll post up an update about the alignment later, but for now I'm trying to get this thing through inspection so I can drive it, but even after I unplugged the airbag module under the back seat while the battery was disconnected the air bag light still comes on on the dash. Is there a second air bag module that I also need to unplug?

    Also, after leaving the battery disconnected for a while, the temp sensor still reads -35*, so I guess the problem lies elsewhere.....

    Edit: While I'm asking questions, I might as well ask for tips on removing the gauge cluster. I followed the instructions in the books I have as well as some videos, but no matter what I do, I can't get enough room to disconnect the plugs on the back of the cluster. The instructions say to rotate the steering wheel, but no matter how I do it, the cluster won't come out far enough for me to get behind it. Does it have anything to do with the 3 spoke steering wheel?
    -did you removed the small ground wire by the ABS module? that could be enough to keep the light on.
    -the temp sensor, idk. i spliced in a new connector and bought a new sensor and mine came back to life/accuracy without issue. *i have since removed the OBC and relegated all that work to obsolescence.
    -i have yet to get a cluster out with any factory wheel. my 330mm Personal wheel leaves me just enough space to wriggle the cluster out. but the stock wheel on my sedan needs to be removed to pull the cluster. pull the top forward and down, then push the right side back into the dash to access the plugs behind the left side of the cluster. that's how i do it every time. *i'm not left-handed either. it just seems to work better that way with regards to wiring harness slack and finagling the cluster about.
    always trying to make it lighter and faster

    ^^former build: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-neglected-M3/
    current build: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...car-build.html
    instant grams: doktor_b

  14. #139
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    I can get my cluster out with the stock four spoke. Between getting the tach and all of the other lights working, I did it a lot of times. The first couple were the worst, but once you get the muscle memory down, it's not too bad. There's a lot of hand disfigurement involved, though.

  15. #140
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    Time for some quick updates!

    I replaced the e-brake lines when I rebuilt the rear end and everything seemed fine, but a few weeks ago I pulled up the e-brake handle and it seemed to slip a bit and didn't grab like it was doing before, so I knew I had to get in there and adjust it. According to the 101 Projects book, I first needed to check the brake fluid level. I'm glad I did, because it was overfilled.



    Much better now



    I had to remove one of my Motorsport Hardware studs to gain access to the adjusting wheel:



    The book said it adjusts in opposite directions on the DS/PS of the car, but mine seemed to get tighter when I turned both wheels towards the back of the car, which threw me for a loop. After some time I got the shoes adjusted and moved into the cabin to adjust the e-brake handle.



    This whole process would have been much easier with a second set of hands, but I didn't have any, so I had to keep going back and forth until both sides were even and seemed to match what the book said.

    Next up was the ambient temperature sensor. You may recall that I bought a new sensor since the car didn't come with one, but that didn't fix the problem, nor did unplugging the battery, so I started inspecting things a little more closely. Right off the bat I noticed what appeared to be non-OEM electrical tape around one of the wires going to the sensor. I peeled back the tape and found the problem!



    And I'm not surprised it wasn't fixed. The wire broke right at the end of the rubber protective elbow, and there was nothing to grab on to. With nothing to lose, I disassembled the connector:



    And cut off the rubber protective elbow:



    And proceeded to do very stupid things with my butt connectors. Had I thought about what I was doing before I did it, this would have turned out much prettier, but I didn't.







    Yeah, that new wire is probably going to break in five years, but for now, I have ambient temperature!



    I then drained the trans fluid. It was not pretty:



    It's tough to see, but there is a fair amount of metal bits in there. Not a good sign. When I took the drain and fill plugs out, I noticed there was a fair amount of teflon tape on them, which made me worry about the plugs leaking. Thankfully, I had bought this nifty stuff for my wife's Escape:



    What I didn't realize was that the stuff takes 72 hours to fully cure! WTF kind of product is this? Who has 72 hours? Crap. Oh well, I'm only going to replace the trans fluid every couple years, and if this is what I need to do to keep it from leaking, then so be it. I'm going to be putting in Redline ATF tonight after this goo is supposed to be cured.

    I also swapped out some of the nasty power steering fluid for some new stuff.



    Now I just need to do that like 10 more times and the system will be clean!



    More coming later!

  16. #141
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    Time for another quick update!

    After no more than 2 hours of use, one of the bulbs that came with my $25 fog lights burned out, so I replaced both with new Sylvania units. Let's hope these last a little bit longer.



    I also chased the threads for the passenger seat rear bolt holes, as the bolts would not even get started. Thank god for my tap and die kit!



    I had to remove the b pillar to get proper access to the outboard hole, which gave me a good opportunity to take another picture of the frame damage that extends all the way up to the roof:



    Hooray, nice clean threads! Now I can get start installing the Recaro on the passenger side....



    But first, I need to start test fitting wheels. You might remember that the front coilovers are rather modified, as JVAB dropped the lower perch down an inch or two to allow for a longer spring. Well, this just happens to put the lower perch right around the area of the wheel and tire, which means I pretty much need to run a 12mm spacer for every wheel in order to not rub. I have been running two of my 12mm spacers up front so far with no issue with my 16x7 style 30 wheels, but I hadn't tried the 12mm spacers in the back yet. When I went to put the new one on the driver's side, it wasn't even close to fitting over the hub:



    After some work with a hand file and a wire wheel, I was able to get it closer to fitting, but it still wasn't perfect. I ended up compromising and just marking which spacer fit which side.





    Check out that droop!





    So I don't think I've mentioned that I picked up a used set of 17x8.5 +40 Apex ARC 8 wheels from my buddy who had them on his E46 330 before he sold it. I've always loved those wheels, so when he told me he was getting rid of them, I had to snatch them up. They of course needed a 12mm spacer up front, which pushes them just outside the fender. Time will tell how bad they rub. However I ran into a problem when I went to install them on the rear wheels. You may remember that I have brand new front hubs on the car, so everything fits great on them. However, the rear hubs are close to 20 years old and proved to be a much tighter fit with wheels and spacers. Sure enough, when I went to try a wheel on that bad driver's side hub, it wasn't even close to going on. Crap! I thought I had that hub cleaned up well enough, what happened? After swapping wheels around, it turned out the problem was with the one wheel that I had tried to install on the DS rear and not so much the hub. I then spent the next hour or two test fitting every single spacer in every single wheel I have (4 sets of wheels....) and using some sand paper where necessary until every spacer fit smoothly into each wheel, and each wheel fit smoothly onto each hub.



    When I got around to working with my new rally wheels, I was greeted by a surprise:



    My missing 12mm spacer had been stuck in one of them this whole time! That's what happens when spacers fit too tight!

    Anyways, I did all of this for a few reasons. The first is that I don't like having to use my impact gun just to get a wheel to fit over a hub or spacer. I've found that when a wheel doesn't fit smoothly, I have to keep going back and check that the lugs are torqued and stay torqued. After a few rounds they seem to hold the torque spec, but it makes me uneasy. The other reason is because I can't afford to have problems with this car like I did with the E28. On that car, the rear hubs were so jacked up that if you were somehow able to get the 12mm spacers on, they would NOT come off without a lot of fighting and smashing. With this E36 and all my different wheel fitments, I need to be able to quickly remove spacers at the race without having to spend 20 minutes chiseling them off just to get my other set of wheels to fit. So, when it's all said and done, all wheels and spacers fit smoothly on any hub, which will make life much easier when I'm swapping wheels on a frequent basis.

    And now, behold the glory of my new summer wheels!


  17. #142
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    Is the car sitting at ride height in that last pic? How is the alignment working for you/is it driving well?

  18. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by tptrsn View Post
    Is the car sitting at ride height in that last pic? How is the alignment working for you/is it driving well?
    Yup, that's now my ride height. The alignment isn't perfect, but it's close. I'll be posting up details about that ordeal ASAP.

  19. #144
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    Wow, you're way up there. I'm interested to know how ride height effects toe, since my feeble brain is probably unable to sort it out without a lot of effort. Lol

  20. #145
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    Alright, time for a big update on the trailing arms and general state of the car!

    You may remember that I bought a set of rear trailing arm brackets off a guy on Instagram who makes ones from scratch that allow for more toe-out adjustment than the stock brackets can provide. They are mainly for stance guys it seems, but I figured I might as well give them a shot. The guy quickly answered all my questions and I was impressed by his service, so I was happy to pay $150 for what I hoped would be a quick and easy fix.

    Here they are:





    Compared to stock:



    Hmm, that could be stronger...



    However, I ran into a problem when I went to install them over the Bimmerworld sealed bearing rear trailing arm bushings/bearings. Because the bearings are held together with three screws that stick out past the normal area of the OEM bushing, they were too wide to fit into the new brackets. After going back and forth with the guy who made them, we figured out that he wasn't aware these BW bearing existed, and thus only designed his brackets to work with OEM style poly or rubber bushings. Crap!



    I tried a couple stupid things to get more clearance before realizing that no amount of grinding and spreading would fix the problem. It was the day before I was scheduled to take the car to the Rallycross National Championship event at our home venue in Frostburg, so I was desperate!

    I tried spreading with my caliper tool...



    I tried grinding...



    But it was no use. Time to scramble and find a car to co-drive for the event! Fast forward a day or two and I'm talking with Brian at the event and he agreed to help modify the brackets to get them to work. It turns out Brian lives about 15 minutes from me and is quite handy with welding and fabricating, so I was relieved to find a potential solution so quickly! After the event I went and dropped off both the new brackets and the original ones. In the end, he decided to just extend the stock brackets to allow for longer adjustment slots instead of grafting the stock center portion onto the aftermarket ones. While he was at it he threw in some extra welds around the brackets to stiffen them up a bit. A few days later and I had brackets that were guaranteed to fit! The question was whether it would be enough to get the car back in spec.

    A big thanks goes out to Brian for helping me out with these and getting them done so quickly!!!

    Brian's on the left, aftermarket on the right:



    Stronger!



    More adjustable!



    Painted!



    Installed!





    I spent some time grinding down some rough welds down there that Eric had done when welding on the reinforcement plates to make sure the brackets could adjust as far outward as possible. Then it was off to RRT again for another alignment. Their alignment machine was having trouble printing so I don't have a nice print out, but here's what I remember off the top of my head.

    Front:
    About -0.8* camber

    Rear
    -1.5* camber
    0.35* toe in on the PS (was 1.1 toe in) and 0.15 toe in on the DS (for some reason that's as far as they could go in even though they had it at 1.0 toe in before....???)

    So it's still out of spec, but at least it seems reasonable in comparison to what it was before. On the drive home I didn't feel the rear end doing anything stupid, and with my now butter-smooth steering thanks to lubing the u-joint in the steering column, the car was feeling great! With that, it was time to get the car through VA state inspection, as I was a few days overdue. With a little creative engineering that won't be posted online, I got through inspection just fine, and with that, it was time to really get busy! After two or three months of the project being paused, it was back to being crunch time so the car would be ready for the next race. Woo hoo!!

  21. #146
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    Nice!

    Camber effects toe, and you had a lot more negative camber back there before, didn't you? Also, are you working with the same ride height as before?
    Last edited by tptrsn; 08-01-2016 at 04:10 PM.

  22. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by tptrsn View Post
    Nice!

    Camber effects toe, and you had a lot more negative camber back there before, didn't you? Also, are you working with the same ride height as before?
    I think rear camber is about the same as before, and I didn't change the ride height.

  23. #148
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    I made some more progress on the M3, so it's time for an update!

    The offset Recaro seat was really bugging me, so I went over to Josh's place to have him modify the seat brackets (I don't have a welder) to get the seat closer to being straight with the steering wheel. After taking some measurements, we decided we could move the seat inboard 1", so Josh got to work cutting and welding.

    Off come the old brackets:



    Josh cut out a section of metal, then welded it back on the side.



    Gotta make room for the manual height adjustment and seat belt receptacle!



    Another bracket completed:



    Workin'....



    More bracket!



    A few hours later and BAM! Almost perfectly centered seats!



    No more contact with the door or B pillar:



    Mmmmmm, sexy....





    Big thanks to Josh for spending another day helping me out with my car. I promise it will all be done soon!

    - - - Updated - - -

    It's been a while since I posted up any info about the skid plate, but with a race fast approaching, it was time to get it sorted out. You see, the u-brace that came with the main skid plate was just too short, and as a result, the skid plate was pressed up against the front sway bar really hard, since it sits below the u-brace, which is in front of the FSB. My initial plan was to get a bunch of grade 10.9 washers and stack them, but I quickly realized that installing the skid plate with said washers was bound to lead to much frustration and cursing, as they would obviously not stay in place when I tried to do the install.



    Sure, that could have been remedied by wrapping the stack with electrical tape or something, but even then it would have been a pain in the ass. So I needed something that would stay in place when I removed the skid plate. Hmm, I have a bunch of 3/4" PVC lying around that I use to make speaker adapters with my buddy Patrick (here's my obligatory plug: http://carstereoadapters.com/ ) so I figured I would cut some up and see how it would work as a spacer for the skid plate. Turns out it seems to work well! I cut up a piece and attached it with some high heat RTV:





    I had to enlarge some of the holes on the plate that didn't line up, but after that was all sorted the skid plate bolted up without a hitch.

    You can see the curvature of the skid plate here:





    In an effort to keep dirt and mud from getting into places that I don't want, I'm trying to get as much plastic around the engine bay as possible. I was missing one piece on the passenger side, apparently referred to as a "pork chop" which I picked up used. All the mounting points on the car were pretty messed up, so zip ties to the rescue!



    Next up was a piece of plastic that houses some O2 sensor wires around the cats. It was hanging down pretty low, and I wanted to make sure it didn't get ripped off too easily when racing.



    After taking a closer look, I found the protective sheath was worn down from rubbing up against the cat, so aluminum ducting tape to the rescue!





    I then zip tied the two O2 sensor wires together in a few places to keep them from rubbing against the cats, and then used a metal zip tie to secure the plastic housing to the heat shield:



    Is this really the correct placement/orientation of this plastic piece? It still looks like it's the lowest part of the car, which doesn't seem quite right.

    Anyways, that's it for now. There is a race this weekend and I think the M3 is finally going to be able to make this one! Wish me luck, I'm gonna need it!

  24. #149
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    How did this beast work out for you at the event?

  25. #150
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    Before I get to the race "results" I'll fill everyone in on what happened just before the race.

    First up, I wanted to seal off the engine bay from as much dirt and rocks as possible, so I cut up some old fender liners and zip tied them to whatever I could find. It's not perfect, but it's better than it was.

    Before:



    After:



    Next up I wanted to install the non-M side mirrors I picked up months ago. The paint was peeling off the aluminum base, so I taped them up and repainted them. Unfortunately, I didn't use my 3M painters tape and used the cheap stuff and paid the price. It probably didn't help that I left the tape on for a few weeks after painting them. In the end, it didn't matter.

    M mirrors suck at being mirrors:



    And non-3M painters tape sucks at being painters tape:



    None of this mattered because these are apparently coupe mirrors, and they don't fit my sedan. I figured the guy who sold them to me, who parts out these cars frequently, would have known better, but I guess he didn't. Oh, the same thing happened with the a pillars he sent me too. Awesome!

    While shuffling cars around the driveway one morning, the M3 was looking good and the sun was just right, so I took some glamour shots!









    Damn I love these wheels!

    After months of waiting, Rally Road finally had some heavy duty transmission braces in stock, so I ordered one and got busy! I've read some stories about these cars destroying the aluminum trans brace, and with the beating the car was going to be subjected to with rally-x, I figured this is pretty cheap insurance. I was going to be in there anyway to install new trans bushings, so I might as well....

    This thing is beefy, while the OEM piece is pretty fragile feeling. Rogue rubber trans mounts FTW!





    To be able to get a floor jack to support the trans while I remove the brace, I had to back the car onto the lift for the first time.



    As a result, I was able to see things under the car I hadn't previously seen, such as this fantastic piece of engineering that is holding my rear shifter bushing in place:



    No wonder why my shifter still has play in it.....Does anyone know if the metal bracket can be bought or replaced? I couldn't find a part number on RealOEM.

    It was a tight squeeze under the car since the floor jack could only go up so far, but I got it all installed without much trouble!



    The only criticism I have with the Rally Road trans brace is that it lacks the nubs the OEM piece has. Hopefully this won't be an issue....



    The last thing I had to do before the race was get the skid plates installed for the fuel lines. Unfortunately this required welding, but thankfully Brian (who fabbed up my rear trailing arm brackets) came through with more help! Here's his rig:



    The skid plates for the fuel lines come in two pieces for some reason, so we started working on the front one. It bolts up to the back of the main skid plate. To make installation easier, Brian welded on two weld nuts on top of the fuel line plate:



    Then he was somehow able to weld on two more weld nuts into the body, even though the car was only up on rhino ramps and he had like 1' of room to work with....go Brian!



    It came as no surprise that the pre-drilled holes in the plates weren't even close to lining up with anything, so we made a new one, then enlarged both, and were finally able to bolt up the front plate.





    This at least covered up the fuel filter, but there was still the matter of the rear plate. It too didn't really line up with anything, and since it was after 9 PM, I decided to call it a night and hope I didn't need the second plate at the race the next day. Once again, big thanks goes out to Brian for doing things that I can't do at very inconvenient times. Thanks Brian!! At this point, I'm pretty unhappy with just about everything related to these skid plates. Rally.Build has poor customer service, overpriced products, and very poor fitment. Think twice before dealing with these guys.

    - - - Updated - - -

    With all the work out of the way, it was finally time to race this freaking thing!! Saturday was a test and tune, and the race was on Sunday. Since I still have my old rally wheels and tires from the E28, I decided I would use them up for the TNT and save my newer, nicer tires for the race. Thankfully, I can somehow fit 6 wheel/tires in the back seat!

    I had some time before it all started to fix two little issues in the most rally-x way possible. The crappy intake that came with the car doesn't seal very well, so someone whipped out some aluminum tape and we sealed it right up! The intake tube was also moving around a little too much in its heat shield, so half of the cardboard roll of aluminum tape came to the rescue. This is next level stuff right here people!



    With the old wheels on the back and the new ones on the front, it was time for more pretty pictures!











    Then it was time to take it out and see what it could do. The test course was tight and rough, but the M3 felt pretty damn good considering! After a few runs, the rear "diffuser" fell off, but no biggie. I turned the car off for a few minutes to go and do something or other, and hopped back in to get going again. Unfortunately, I was greeted by a CEL and a low coolant warning. Crap!

    Oh no, this isn't good:





    It looks as if a zip tie that was holding up the upper radiator hose broke which caused the hose to fall down into the fan, which then proceeded to explode itself all over and into my nice aluminum radiator. This is not good. I frantically searched all the local parts stores (remember, we race in the middle of nowhere) and of course none had a radiator or fan. After calling Josh, he called Jim, who happens to have an E36 M3 as well. Long story short, Jim came through in the clutch and pulled his nice Behr Z3M radiator and Bimmerworld electric fan kit off his chump car and brought them with him the next morning! Then I called Brian up for one more favor- could he pick up my special fan clutch removal tools from my house, along with all my BMW coolant and distilled water? Well sure, of course he could, because Brian is awesome!

    With that all figured out, it was time to get the car ready for the new parts that would arrive in the morning. Shawn and Katie let me park the car on their trailer overnight so I could get easy access to everything. This is one instance in which an open deck trailer is awesome!



    The Pelican and Bentley books both say you have to remove the fan before you can get the radiator and shroud out, but I guess with no fan blades I had some extra clearance. Great success!



    Much fail....



    Look, the parts fairies left me goodies!





    Boom, installed and burped with minutes to spare! Big thanks goes out to Jim for bringing the radiator and fan and for helping do the wiring while I did other things, to Josh for helping with wiring, and to Brian for grabbing stuff from my house. I couldn't have done any of it without you guys!!

    Well, it was finally crunch time. How will the car do out there? I got the car up to the line, launched, and then.....nothing. It felt like the car had 10 HP. WTF??? Did I somehow blow the motor up? Oh wait, what's the flashing on the dash? Oh right, the traction control light. I better turn that off. Ahh, much better! On my second run I was feeling more confidant and the car felt great out there. Steering was tight and responsive, the suspension was absorbing everything, and I had more power than I knew what to do with. BANG! What was that? Hmm, I must have bottomed out or something. I pulled in and immediately knew something was wrong, as the back of the car was sitting way too low on the driver's side.

    Fuck.



    And just like that, my fancy articulating Rogue Engineering rear spring height adjuster failed, the spring was sitting cocked, the top plastic perch had fallen out, and the car had clearly bottomed out very hard.





    Yeah, those threads stripped right off! I guess these aren't rally tough.

    Oh, but the carnage didn't stop there. There is not supposed to be this gap at the top of my Bilstein struts. I really hope this doesn't mean it's blown. I was able to tap it back down with a hammer, but I have no idea what's going on inside the shock. Can anyone speculate on what happened here? I assume these are gas shocks....does this mean it's now depressurized? Or was this just the bumpstop going up way higher than it should have. Or both???



    I then checked that strut tower, and it appears as if some paint flaked off, and I'm pretty sure there's a tiny crack now. Fucking great!

    Thankfully, Josh came to the rescue again with a spare 8" 300 lb spring he had lying around, so I threw that in and drove home.



    Fuck. This. Shit.

    Oh, and to top it off, the car started stalling at idle when I had the AC on during the drive home, which it's never done before. And I'm also getting some whine through the speakers with the AC on, which is also a new problem. I wonder if the compressor is going bad.....WTF.
    Last edited by 95maxrider; 08-16-2016 at 03:55 PM.

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