An N/A guy looking to the darkside. Help me build boost!

[Butters Stoch]

Another problem is keeping up with the Joneses. Not a good idea I have found. To be honest, the best advise I can give you is start with a simple 500/500 system. Make sure its fully sorted out. There is always something to sort out. Get the car to the point where it can handle the 500 your throwing at it. You should feel comfortable that the car will hold under all conditions. Its much more than just "putting a turbo on it". Get EVERYTHING dialed in at 500.
Then move up to the next level.

Personally I think it would be a big mistake going from 200 something up to 650-700. Handling the power , having the suspension, drivetrain and chassis needs to hold up.

Do you really want a car that's breaking shit all the time ?

I would start with a simple 500 and get it to the point where you feel comfortable handing over your keys to someone to take for a drive. Make it bullet proof. Have it drive like it rolled out the factory with that type of power. You want full traction in 2nd gear, you want to be able to meet up with buddies at the drag strip for some fun runs without leaving on a tow truck. Once it can handle that , go to the next level. Don't jump over vital steps just for a #.
Your going to want to spend thousands in cooling/suspension/drive train/chassis just to handle 500.

[mean4g]

I agree with a lot of what has been said. A 500whp good responsive setup is a ton of fun to drive and will satisfy most. I would ignore all the noise that people talk....

[Da Infammus 1]

I have a snow meth system. It's OK but its boost activated. Spend a little extra and get an aquamist that's activated off injector duty cycle. Much more accurate.

For boost control you have a couple options. The eboost2 is great. It offers multiple boost settings. You'll need a separate wideband. I use the Innovate SCG-1 boost controller\wideband. I've been extremely happy with it. It offers boost triggered failsafe and AFR triggered failsafe. I like the standard sized gauge pod vs the larger eboost2. The only downside ive seen is the SCG-1 only offers 1 boost setting. Settings are easy to change on the fly but some people prefer multiple settings. It hasn't been an issue for me. A big plus is the SCG-1 is less expensive than eboost2 and it includes a wideband.

You're probably going to want some kind of data logging. I've looked into lots of systems. The one that Butters has is the best hands down. He can give you more details. If you're budget is tight BMW logger is very inexpensive. Innovate offers some options beyond the free stuff. In all honesty I'm not impressed with their data logging software.

There's been almost no discussion of your drivetrain. Maybe you're all set on that part. I know from my experience with the New England forum you're looking at a pretty big investment if you're planning on taking a big step over that 500hp threshold.

As far as turbo choices.... I love my setup but its not for everyone. I've got a gt35r with a .63ar exhaust housing on a T4 SPA manifold and a Tial 38mm wastegate. That setup spools about as quick as anything you'll see. I do almost entirely street driving around town. A few drag strip runs. This setup starts spooling at 2800. Also running a NickG tune, 42lb injectors, walbro 255 pump, stock FPR, 3" vband exhaust. My gt35r does not hit hard. It's extremely smooth.

There's a lot to be said for keeping it simple your first time out of the gate. Bigger fuel pump would mean aftermarket FPR and more $$$$ bigger turbo probably means bigger exhaust and more $$$$ it all gets more expensive and more complicated.

just saying.....500hp is a nice place to live. Especially if you don't live at the track.

Figure out what your budget is. Budget drives the bus. My choices were pretty easy to make. I bought a used tune and built my setup around it. You've heard the old saying "there's always a faster car"? Same thing holds true for turbos. Theres always a better turbo. Just choose one and move on.

I've looked into some data logging systems already as well as boost controllers so I have an idea of what I'd like for my setup and will budget accordingly for the ones that I like. Although I'm not trying to go crazy throwing around cash, I know the importance of buying quality parts to get the job done right the first time so I'm not cheaping out.

As for drivetrain, I think what I have now in suspension and drivetrain would be good for a 500whp and under setup. Stage 3+ SPEC full faced sprung clutch and JBR Ltfw, built diff, and koni adjustable shocks/H&R springs. I do plan on doing suspension research to see what kind of setup would be useful in the future.

Turbo I'm also still up in the air about. Not sure whether I should have a bigger turbo and just use it at a lower boost level to make 500 or to get a smaller one suited to that range. I know later on I'll be shooting for more once I'm comfortable with the car and it's capabilities so it might be better to make that investment now. I have a few choices but my top 2 are HTA3586 or PT6466, although a friend of mine offered me his s366 for a great price. I'm just not sure that turbo would be a good fit for the CES manifold I'll be using, and the other 2 definitely are.

Fueling is another choice I still haven't made, I was fully set on going 93 and meth, then an e85 gas station opened up 2 minutes from my house yesterday. That makes it readily accessible to me at both my home and my job now.

Lots of choices to still make, but luckily my "consultants" and this forum has really helped me narrow down choices and focus on what would be right to start with. I do think starting slow, getting dialed in and working from there would be the right thing to do. Not worried about the faster cars, I have too many friends with 800+whp cars to do that lol. Just concerned with making my car a faster, reliable and efficient setup. I mean how much power do you really need to make a gutted E36 fast and fun anyhow? Lol

[Butters Stoch]

Here's something to think about. Pbonsalb and Chikinhed both have trapped in the 134-135 mph range with awesome spool from a 35r based turbo. Both of their cars were/are fairly heavy at the time. Take a look at this list. Scroll down to the 135ish trap and look to see where you will fall. http://www.autosnout.com/Quarter-Mile-Car-List.php trap speed is a direct comparison of what would happen in a 60 roll. Better than any dyno could ever show you. Now running my 6466 with a little less boost I gain a little bit of trap (137) but sacrifice a ton of midrange. If I wasn't shooting for 700+ next year, knowing this , I would drop down to a slightly smaller turbo. I think if you want 650 or under get a 35r/6266 if you want 700 get a 6466. Don't get a 6466 to drive at 600-650 cause your losing your midrange for nothing. Start with the smaller turbo IMO. You got plenty of years to play. Experience a hard hitting 500-600 turbo.

[NY98M3]

While I've been down the road before of having a small turbo making 500whp/500wtq, the money I threw at the car back then is similar to what I did to make 800whp. I should of did it all at once when I had the time/money. You have a sweet built engine to make 800+whp/700wtq, you can make 500/500 on a stock block.

I saw some videos of your car doing roll racing on the street. Youre always boosting hard in the upper RPMs.

Make sure you make the decision you want now, I can tell you from experience, kids slow everything down. You'll have no time after you have the baby to do it again. I haven't touched my car since I pulled the motor out 4 weeks ago.

Id go e85, not sure why anyone who has it available would not do it. Im curious if the winter blend E85 we have up here is the same as it is down south.

[pbonsalb]

Fueling is another choice I still haven't made, I was fully set on going 93 and meth, then an e85 gas station opened up 2 minutes from my house yesterday. That makes it readily accessible to me at both my home and my job now.

Make sure E85 is also available wherever you go, unless the car is just a toy you drive fairly close to home and you don't mind always checking the fuel level before you go anywhere.

[GG///M3]

Ahhhh the simpleness of N/A leaving for the sadnesses of boosts.

[gstuning]

Make sure E85 is also available wherever you go, unless the car is just a toy you drive fairly close to home and you don't mind always checking the fuel level before you go anywhere.

Or get an ECU that can do flex fuel sensing controls?

[pbonsalb]

Yes if you do not need to have your car OBD2 plug in inspected and want to buy and wire in and tune a standalone, that is an option. But as you recently posted, after trying a few standalones, you think the driveability is best with a factory ECU.

[mean4g]

Or get an ECU that can do flex fuel sensing controls?

or switchable maps. ;-)

[Da Infammus 1]

Make sure E85 is also available wherever you go, unless the car is just a toy you drive fairly close to home and you don't mind always checking the fuel level before you go anywhere.

The car will be just a toy. Between my gf and I we have 2 other cars and 2 motorcycles to use if we commute or go anywhere. If I'm driving this car it'll be for the sole purpose of driving enjoyment. Luckily the e85 station by my house is n the way to the highway, and the one by my job is also near the highway. It would be nice to have switchable maps though, just in case I'd like to make a trip in it.

[Da Infammus 1]

Ahhhh the simpleness of N/A leaving for the sadnesses of boosts.

Had to try sometime if I want to be competitive, since I didn't have any plans of changing platforms or LS swapping the car.

[bry195]

All this standalone talk is heresy. Who wants to spend 5 minutes tuning fuel?

If you want to log-standalone hands down
If you want motor, drivetrain, electrical protection...
If you want anti-lag, boost by gear, electronic fuel/boost pressure regulation
Change injectors without retuning
Launch control


But one project at a time. I wouldnt suggest a standalone install in the middle of other projects.

Isnt the HTA bigger than the GTX3582? Will it fit the steed?

The 3582 is a beast of a turbo. Just because its been done to death doesnt mean its not a beast. I know the HTA is better but I get mixed reviews on whether it makes a significant difference.

[GG///M3]

All this standalone talk is heresy. Who wants to spend 5 minutes tuning fuel?

If you want to log-standalone hands down
If you want motor, drivetrain, electrical protection...
If you want anti-lag, boost by gear, electronic fuel/boost pressure regulation
Change injectors without retuning
Launch control


But one project at a time. I wouldnt suggest a standalone install in the middle of other projects.

Isnt the HTA bigger than the GTX3582? Will it fit the steed?

The 3582 is a beast of a turbo. Just because its been done to death doesnt mean its not a beast. I know the HTA is better but I get mixed reviews on whether it makes a significant difference.

Yes the hta3586 is just a bit bigger if I remember correctly. It fit my steed speed t4, and with a twin scroll housing should easily fit the new SS mani

[pbonsalb]

I don't think the HTA is physically larger than a stock 35R with S cover and turbine housings are your choice with stock or HTA. The compressor cover is machined inside for the bigger impeller.

[Da Infammus 1]

I don't think the HTA is physically larger than a stock 35R with S cover and turbine housings are your choice with stock or HTA. The compressor cover is machined inside for the bigger impeller.

I think you're right from my research lately. I don't think there's a physical size difference. I've also not even been able to find an HTA35 for sale lol. But I do see FP has started something called an HTZ upgrade, and also selling Xona Rotor turbos. No clue of they're good or not.

[pbonsalb]

Look under turbo upgrades at FP and scroll down to Garrett. HTZ is the name of the upgraded impeller.

[Da Infammus 1]

Look under turbo upgrades at FP and scroll down to Garrett. HTZ is the name of the upgraded impeller.

That's what I did, and it now looks like all the Garrett turbo upgrades are HTZ instead of the aforementioned HTA.

[Da Infammus 1]

Checking pics in threads and galleries for some sort of indication on what gauges people find necessary to have in their boosted cars.

What are the necessities for gauges? Oil temp, water temp, oil pressure?

[bmw328m52]

Unless your tracking the car, I wouldn't be too concerned with water temps if you have a low temp tstat, aftermarket hoses, high flow radiator, and stewart water pump. Oil temp would be nice but oil pressure is the most important IMO. Even if you secure that oil pump nut, last thing you want to do is blow up the motor after the light of death comes on and you don't notice it right away. Bavauto offers a nice VDO setup. Obviously boost pressure and afr gauges are a MUST.

[bmuum3]

Checking pics in threads and galleries for some sort of indication on what gauges people find necessary to have in their boosted cars.

What are the necessities for gauges? Oil temp, water temp, oil pressure?

I had oil temp, oil pressure, water temp, afr and boost pressure.

[NY98M3]

Checking pics in threads and galleries for some sort of indication on what gauges people find necessary to have in their boosted cars.

What are the necessities for gauges? Oil temp, water temp, oil pressure?

I never liked the A pillar gauges, get a Rally Road pod for the column and look at loosing the sunglass tray for gauges. If your going ethanol, tuck away an ethanol sensor. I put mine in the glove box and check it only after adding fuel.

I went with Innovate Motorsports A/f and all Autometer ES gauges for the rest.

[Butters Stoch]

Here's what I did, .... For 1 gauge that I felt is important.

[Da Infammus 1]

Here's what I did, .... For 1 gauge that I felt is important.

Now that's fancy lol. I'll be getting the RR pod for my eboost2 and zeitronix gauge, just wanted to know what 3 to put in the center console under the radio, and if there's a gauge kit for that location also. Sounds like oil pressure, oil and water temp is the general consensus

[rajicase]

AFR and boost for sure. Id get a water temp gauge, mine has come in handy more than once. Oil pressure is great too. Oil temp isn't all that important unless you track the car ... but its nice to fill up that 3rd spot in the sunglass holder..