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Thread: An N/A guy looking to the darkside. Help me build boost!

  1. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by E36 HateR View Post
    3.2 gtx35 m3 vs 2.5 hx40 325, 40 roll both cars make a hair over 600whp but one "makes no torques"
    Skip to 4:14



    Had him 3-4 cars and i was driving horribly, banged the limiter before every shift just to flex.
    From 0-100 the smaller turbo is the better choice but if you are going to race to 140-150mph id take the larger turbo every day.
    Sweet vid man!

  2. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by bry195 View Post
    If you are set on 6466 then go for it. The list of stuff you have to replace above 550 is pretty big but given time and money you will get it for sure. The problem will be keeping the HP down before the car is ready and I've seen you at the track!

    Riverview has a thorntons with e85. I think i found about 20 stations in 40 miles with e85. You realize Nick is in Florida right?
    Haha, I agree the problem will be keeping the power down before the chassis can handle it, which has previously resulted in 2 blown diffs at the track lol. Or maybe it was the drag radials instead of slicks on a stickshift car, who knows lol.

    What is the 40 mile radius, starting from Brandon area? And I definitely didn't know Nick was in FL, within driving distance of us?
    Infiniti G35S Turbo BMW M3/4/5 Ninja ZX6R 636
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  3. #78
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    If you can get an in person Nick G tune, your crazy not to.

    I agree with Bry, when going to the next level above 500 things get much more $$$. Maybe for first, get yourself a 35r make 500-600 wheel. Unless you want to start out with a $1650 clutch ? These last years you have been stoked with your NA car, jumping into a 62mm turbo will make the na car look stupid. I would start there. Get used to it. Then go for the bigger power.
    1996 332IS
    Built 3.2
    CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
    Technique Tuning 80# tune.
    1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
    Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
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  4. #79
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    What do you guys think about this fuel pump kit? Is there an E36 specific one or one such as this on ebay would be fine?

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/3216995...chn=ps&lpid=82
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  5. #80
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    Be careful of fake stuff. Not saying that's fake, but just be careful.
    1996 332IS
    Built 3.2
    CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
    Technique Tuning 80# tune.
    1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
    Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
    WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM

  6. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by Da Infammus 1 View Post
    What do you guys think about this fuel pump kit? Is there an E36 specific one or one such as this on ebay would be fine?

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/3216995...chn=ps&lpid=82
    That part # is what you need for E85 use...youll need to ask whoever is tuning if you need 1 or 2 pumps...

    98 Fern Green M3/2 - Precision 6870/AR Designs Twin Scroll/RK/E85
    2017 Toyota Tundra Crewmaxx - Family Whip
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  7. #82
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    i think the real ones are 140-150 or something like that

    the walbro 485 is a great pump, I have one and made over 700whp on e85.

  8. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by Butters Stoch View Post
    Be careful of fake stuff. Not saying that's fake, but just be careful.
    I've seen the horror stories of fake ones killing engines due to fuel starvation so I'm not trying to go that route. I rather have a known genuine pump and would pay more for it. The price seemed kind of low to me. I see CES has a walbro kit, but do you need a complete kit or just the pump?

    Quote Originally Posted by NY98M3 View Post
    That part # is what you need for E85 use...youll need to ask whoever is tuning if you need 1 or 2 pumps...
    Did you use 1 or 2? Can this pump be used on 93 also or is it e85 specific?
    Quote Originally Posted by E36 HateR View Post
    i think the real ones are 140-150 or something like that

    the walbro 485 is a great pump, I have one and made over 700whp on e85.
    Hadn't looked at the 485. Is that E85 specific? Did you buy just the pump and place it in the stock location or a full kit?



    Thanks for all your help guys, I really appreciate it!
    Infiniti G35S Turbo BMW M3/4/5 Ninja ZX6R 636
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  9. #84
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    I'd say contact Jordan he can provide many interesting things with obd 2. I still say stay N/a
    “If liberty means anything at all, it means the right to tell people what they do not want to hear.”
    ― George Orwell

  10. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by GG///M3 View Post
    I'd say contact Jordan he can provide many interesting things with obd 2. I still say stay N/a
    8.5 cr, staying N/A is not gon' happen
    Infiniti G35S Turbo BMW M3/4/5 Ninja ZX6R 636
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  11. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by Da Infammus 1 View Post
    8.5 cr, staying N/A is not gon' happen
    I'm confused
    “If liberty means anything at all, it means the right to tell people what they do not want to hear.”
    ― George Orwell

  12. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by GG///M3 View Post
    I'm confused
    New long block is built for boost. Thus no going back now.
    Infiniti G35S Turbo BMW M3/4/5 Ninja ZX6R 636
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  13. #88
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    Hes using my low compression motor.

    98 Fern Green M3/2 - Precision 6870/AR Designs Twin Scroll/RK/E85
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  14. #89
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    Going back to NA would be like some form of cruel punishment.

    Sent from my GTX3582R
    '97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.

  15. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by chikinhed View Post
    Going back to NA would be like some form of cruel punishment.

    Sent from my GTX3582R
    Lol I agree.
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  16. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by chikinhed View Post
    Going back to NA would be like some form of cruel punishment.

    Sent from my GTX3582R
    This car has ruined me. Every time a customer shows up with a new/used car, either a mustang or corvette and asks me "wanna take it for a rip?". When driving, holding to the boards, they ask " are you bored ?" Lol.
    1996 332IS
    Built 3.2
    CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
    Technique Tuning 80# tune.
    1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
    Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
    WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM

  17. #92
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    I think you are obligated as a fellow car guy to at least pretend to be impressed

    I had the opportunity to drive a supercharged e92 M3 at an autox event and after a couple of runs I couldn't wait to get back in my car.

    Sent from my GTX3582R
    '97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.

  18. #93
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    I've been in a lot of fast cars before. But the only really fast BMW I've been in had an LS swap on a very healthy shot of nitrous. All others were Supras or turbo American V8's.
    Infiniti G35S Turbo BMW M3/4/5 Ninja ZX6R 636
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  19. #94
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    I run the walbro 485. I cannot even hear it and it flows like crazy. You are always welcome to stop by and check it out.

    I checked google for technique tuning and no address. I checked techniquetuning.com and no address. Its either in Daytona or Down around Miami. I cant remember now. AA is in Miami for sure.

    So what is the hardest thing about leaving the NA world and entering the FI world? Its the knowledge gap.

    High end tuners may not be available at all times for questions but if you are comfortable with the relationship or response time get the tuners opinion and do what he advizes after you know what you want for HP and so on.

    I know you have talent and know guys with talent. Second choice is to fab the stuff yourself but you have to coordinate the project.

    Reasons to stay conservative on first build
    1-tuner availability
    2-you have to manage the project and picking a well documented base of components will help you
    3-cheaper (from tune to mech and mistake correction)
    4-you will make less mistakes
    5-you will have more advice
    6-powertrain
    7-daily driver

    Most guys start SC or do a 400hp turbo build. They all get hooked even at this level and develop a feel for what works and what doesnt. Whether you start at 400 550 or 750 you will go for more if you like power and cars. Shoot high enough to not create a bunch of show stoppers or demotivators during the process but not so high that you dont know its your fault that the car broke at the track and why it broke.

    There are some foundations that you can implement that can be used as you move further up.
    Clutch
    Steed
    T4 but do your plumbing in a way that you can move things around when you change. I v-banded everything so angles and lengths are easy to change if required at all and the clutch is easier to get to.
    485 pump whether you use E85 or not
    Very large arcing motor mount arm
    I'm sure there are a million more little things that will set you up for expansion later.


    Here are some problems you need to research
    Bottom mount oil return and oil smoke
    Coil grounds
    IACV clean
    Maf placement
    BOV placement to not mess with MAF placement
    Wastegate lines that dont burn
    Opump nut
    Over rev brown note (car shites the bed)
    Cam timing
    Leaks in the manifold and plumbing
    FMIC mounting
    Temperature problems and techniques to solve them. Fans, sealing, oil cooler
    Dif bolt breakage and how to make it easy to replace
    Plugs (ngk 4554 at .023)
    Vacuum routing
    Crank case ventilation

    I cant believe I'm saying this but try not to reinvent the wheel. You will have enough problems.
    Count on friends to help and make mistakes like anyone. Feel free to give me a call or message anytime.

  20. #95
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    I used to go all-motor once upon a time. Once I drove a 600+ skyline I was ruined. There was no way I could stay NA.
    4 different turbo cars/1 BB chevy/1 all motor+nitrous...7 different turbos, 4 different intercoolers, 6 different EMS systems etc etc. Looking to play E36 on boost.

  21. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by bry195 View Post
    I run the walbro 485. I cannot even hear it and it flows like crazy. You are always welcome to stop by and check it out.

    I checked google for technique tuning and no address. I checked techniquetuning.com and no address. Its either in Daytona or Down around Miami. I cant remember now. AA is in Miami for sure.

    So what is the hardest thing about leaving the NA world and entering the FI world? Its the knowledge gap.

    High end tuners may not be available at all times for questions but if you are comfortable with the relationship or response time get the tuners opinion and do what he advizes after you know what you want for HP and so on.

    I know you have talent and know guys with talent. Second choice is to fab the stuff yourself but you have to coordinate the project.

    Reasons to stay conservative on first build
    1-tuner availability
    2-you have to manage the project and picking a well documented base of components will help you
    3-cheaper (from tune to mech and mistake correction)
    4-you will make less mistakes
    5-you will have more advice
    6-powertrain
    7-daily driver

    Most guys start SC or do a 400hp turbo build. They all get hooked even at this level and develop a feel for what works and what doesnt. Whether you start at 400 550 or 750 you will go for more if you like power and cars. Shoot high enough to not create a bunch of show stoppers or demotivators during the process but not so high that you dont know its your fault that the car broke at the track and why it broke.

    There are some foundations that you can implement that can be used as you move further up.
    Clutch
    Steed
    T4 but do your plumbing in a way that you can move things around when you change. I v-banded everything so angles and lengths are easy to change if required at all and the clutch is easier to get to.
    485 pump whether you use E85 or not
    Very large arcing motor mount arm
    I'm sure there are a million more little things that will set you up for expansion later.

    Here are some problems you need to research
    Bottom mount oil return and oil smoke
    Coil grounds
    IACV clean
    Maf placement
    BOV placement to not mess with MAF placement
    Wastegate lines that dont burn
    Opump nut
    Over rev brown note (car shites the bed)
    Cam timing
    Leaks in the manifold and plumbing
    FMIC mounting
    Temperature problems and techniques to solve them. Fans, sealing, oil cooler
    Dif bolt breakage and how to make it easy to replace
    Plugs (ngk 4554 at .023)
    Vacuum routing
    Crank case ventilation

    I cant believe I'm saying this but try not to reinvent the wheel. You will have enough problems.
    Count on friends to help and make mistakes like anyone. Feel free to give me a call or message anytime.
    These are some great points. I was wondering about vacuum routing and CCV, how do you turbo guys usually do it? Some of them I've already addressed or intend to address once the car goes back together, there's still a lot for me to learn as I keep googling and searching the forum.
    Infiniti G35S Turbo BMW M3/4/5 Ninja ZX6R 636
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    UTI Class of '10, BMW "STEPchild"
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  22. #97
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    I know for the CCV you can either dump to atmosphere, to a catch can or back into the exhaust. I wanted to do the exhaust route since I was tired of the oil smell.

    1995 M3 S52 turbo (Sold, like an idiot) -----------------------------------1998 M3/4/5 (Hopefully turbo soon, Nope sold this too)..................................E92 335i(God, I miss the E36's)

  23. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmuum3 View Post
    I wanted to do the exhaust route since I was tired of the oil smell.
    His motor is solid. I had it dumped to the ground and never had any exhaust smell in the car.

    98 Fern Green M3/2 - Precision 6870/AR Designs Twin Scroll/RK/E85
    2017 Toyota Tundra Crewmaxx - Family Whip
    2011 Pierce 75' Quint - Fire Apparatus West Islip FD

  24. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by NY98M3 View Post

    His motor is solid. I had it dumped to the ground and never had any exhaust smell in the car.
    Any pics of the routing?
    Infiniti G35S Turbo BMW M3/4/5 Ninja ZX6R 636
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  25. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by Da Infammus 1 View Post
    Any pics of the routing?
    Use the factory vent tube that goes from the VC to the CCV and vent it to atmosphere down low.
    Last edited by NY98M3; 12-29-2015 at 05:50 PM.

    98 Fern Green M3/2 - Precision 6870/AR Designs Twin Scroll/RK/E85
    2017 Toyota Tundra Crewmaxx - Family Whip
    2011 Pierce 75' Quint - Fire Apparatus West Islip FD

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