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Thread: An N/A guy looking to the darkside. Help me build boost!

  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Da Infammus 1 View Post

    I would actually love to be able to do some dig racing with the car once the trans and rear is set up for it, chikinhed indicated a bigger turbo would be more suited to that. Would you concur? (Without thinking that it would help your sale lol)
    If all the car is for is racing, sure higher HP the majority of the time. But for a street car do you want to always be 5k+ in the rpm range ? There is something to be said for taking a little bit of loss of peak power and shifting the graph to the left. Makes for much more fun on the street honestly.
    You really need to pick a #, and buy a turbo accordingly.
    If your looking for 650 and under I would say get a 35r based turbo. If your looking for 700+ go gt40/6466 based.
    There is no need to lose that lower end and buy a 4094 if your looking for 600.
    Having the power on tap at all tines for 600 wheel is nice with a 35r ish turbo. But with a 4094 and running around with 600 your downshifting all the time.
    I really think for a street car , having a fat power band is more fun.
    Having driven everything in between, I can tell you this, if this TS steed doesn't wake up this 6466 a bit more, I'll take the hit and not have 700wheel on pump and fatten up the power band and get a wide 650 with a gtx35 or a 6266.

    But to answer your question, from a dig, its going to be hard for the big turbo car to catch the smaller turbo car light to light.

    Pick a fuel, pick a whp# this should pick the turbo.

    Ie , 93 octane and 600 HP is a 35r with 22-23 psi. That's doable. If that # was 700, then the 35r ain't going to cut it with out e85 or 109.

    My opinion is that everyone should experience a hard hitting 35r style turbo as a street car. While your sorting it out , if you decide you want more than 600 then upgrade. 600 should amuse you for a little bit . coning from 275 or whatever you were at. Try that first. You have a lot to sort out on your first turbo setup.
    1996 332IS
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  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Da Infammus 1 View Post
    I don't really have intentions of using the 286's unless a tuner or someone else knowledgeable tells me otherwise.

    Any other help on the parts list or any info I asked for in my 1st post?
    Ask Jordan what he thinks
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  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Butters Stoch View Post
    If all the car is for is racing, sure higher HP the majority of the time. But for a street car do you want to always be 5k+ in the rpm range ? There is something to be said for taking a little bit of loss of peak power and shifting the graph to the left. Makes for much more fun on the street honestly.
    You really need to pick a #, and buy a turbo accordingly.
    If your looking for 650 and under I would say get a 35r based turbo. If your looking for 700+ go gt40/6466 based.
    There is no need to lose that lower end and buy a 4094 if your looking for 600.
    Having the power on tap at all tines for 600 wheel is nice with a 35r ish turbo. But with a 4094 and running around with 600 your downshifting all the time.
    I really think for a street car , having a fat power band is more fun.
    Having driven everything in between, I can tell you this, if this TS steed doesn't wake up this 6466 a bit more, I'll take the hit and not have 700wheel on pump and fatten up the power band and get a wide 650 with a gtx35 or a 6266.

    But to answer your question, from a dig, its going to be hard for the big turbo car to catch the smaller turbo car light to light.

    Pick a fuel, pick a whp# this should pick the turbo.

    Ie , 93 octane and 600 HP is a 35r with 22-23 psi. That's doable. If that # was 700, then the 35r ain't going to cut it with out e85 or 109.

    My opinion is that everyone should experience a hard hitting 35r style turbo as a street car. While your sorting it out , if you decide you want more than 600 then upgrade. 600 should amuse you for a little bit . coning from 275 or whatever you were at. Try that first. You have a lot to sort out on your first turbo setup.
    Thank you for that info Butters, super helpful! I agree, getting into my first turbo setup 600 would be fine for the time being. Maybe even 500 just t get used to it. What's the torque numbers usually look like with 600whp, around 500wtq? Also in a 35r-ish turbo, would an HTA upgraded 35r serve for more sustainable higher RPM power than say a standard gtx35r?

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  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by GG///M3 View Post

    Ask Jordan what he thinks
    I'd also like to know what ALL tuners, including both Jordan and Nick, would think on that camshaft matter. I'm pretty confident they'd tell me to stick with 264's or 276's

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  5. #55
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    looking for E36 328i
    HTA3586 is a monster. Very popular.
    4 different turbo cars/1 BB chevy/1 all motor+nitrous...7 different turbos, 4 different intercoolers, 6 different EMS systems etc etc. Looking to play E36 on boost.

  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by mean4g View Post
    HTA3586 is a monster. Very popular.
    What makes it so different from a gtx35r straight from Garrett though?

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  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Da Infammus 1 View Post

    What makes it so different from a gtx35r straight from Garrett though?
    3582 vs 3586
    1996 332IS
    Built 3.2
    CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
    Technique Tuning 80# tune.
    1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
    Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
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  8. #58
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    It goes like this

    Gt35r, hta3582/86, gtx3582, the hta is a forced performance upgrade.

  9. #59
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    I had the HTA upgrade...it was good but I expected better results. The only reason I did it was because I nicked one of the blades on the compressor wheel when I was installing the cover on a brand new GT3582R.

    Id like to see:

    Steedspeed V2
    6466
    E85
    RK tuned

    You'll be in the 800+whp range for sure.
    Last edited by NY98M3; 12-27-2015 at 08:20 AM.

    98 Fern Green M3/2 - Precision 6870/AR Designs Twin Scroll/RK/E85
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  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by E36 HateR View Post
    It goes like this

    Gt35r, hta3582/86, gtx3582, the hta is a forced performance upgrade.
    How is the HTA3586 behind the gtx3582? Wouldn't the 86 be a bigger turbo, although the gtx denotes journal bearings?

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  11. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by NY98M3 View Post
    I had the HTA upgrade...it was good but I expected better results. The only reason I did it was because I nicked one of the blades on the compressor wheel when I was installing the cover on a brand new GT3582R.

    Id like to see:

    Steedspeed V2
    6466
    E85
    RK tuned

    You'll be in the 800+whp range for sure.
    The only problem I have with that setup is that the car isn't able to hold that kind of power yet, I'd just be blowing up my drivetrain constantly at that power level and then have a slightly laggy system when turned down to an acceptable power level. Thus why I was thinking start at 550-600's, learn the car and get acclimated to turbo life while compiling parts to go big later on.

    But umm.. that 6466 you got is a t4 twin scroll housing? That would be tempting
    Last edited by Da Infammus 1; 12-27-2015 at 11:56 AM.

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  12. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Da Infammus 1 View Post

    How is the HTA3586 behind the gtx3582? Wouldn't the 86 be a bigger turbo, although the gtx denotes journal bearings?
    I think the HTA3582 is like the gtx3582. So more like

    35r < hta3582 = gtx3582 < hta3586
    1996 332IS
    Built 3.2
    CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
    Technique Tuning 80# tune.
    1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
    Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
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  13. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by Butters Stoch View Post

    I think the HTA3582 is like the gtx3582. So more like

    35r < hta3582 = gtx3582 < hta3586
    Ahh, that makes sense. Wouldnt the 3586 and PT 6466 be in the same performance range though?

    Also what diff ratio are you guys using? Mine is currently 3.46 from having an N/A setup, wondering what I should change it to.

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  14. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by Da Infammus 1 View Post

    Ahh, that makes sense. Wouldnt the 3586 and PT 6466 be in the same performance range though?

    Also what diff ratio are you guys using? Mine is currently 3.46 from having an N/A setup, wondering what I should change it to.
    Hta35 will spool much quicker than the 6466. Both will make 700 , the 6466 will do it with less boost. If goal is 650 or under HTA is your turbo, if you want 700+ go 6466
    1996 332IS
    Built 3.2
    CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
    Technique Tuning 80# tune.
    1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
    Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
    WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM

  15. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by Da Infammus 1 View Post
    How is the HTA3586 behind the gtx3582? Wouldn't the 86 be a bigger turbo, although the gtx denotes journal bearings?
    I liked it better then driving a 4094 car .
    “If liberty means anything at all, it means the right to tell people what they do not want to hear.”
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  16. #66
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    3.2 gtx35 m3 vs 2.5 hx40 325, 40 roll both cars make a hair over 600whp but one "makes no torques"
    Skip to 4:14



    Had him 3-4 cars and i was driving horribly, banged the limiter before every shift just to flex.
    From 0-100 the smaller turbo is the better choice but if you are going to race to 140-150mph id take the larger turbo every day.

  17. #67
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    We're the cars dynoed on the same dyno, the same weight, same gearing, both getting traction and both driven to max potential? One of those factor had to have played a role there.

    Sent from my GTX3582R
    '97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.

  18. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by E36 HateR View Post
    3.2 gtx35 m3 vs 2.5 hx40 325, 40 roll both cars make a hair over 600whp but one "makes no torques"
    Skip to 4:14



    Had him 3-4 cars and i was driving horribly, banged the limiter before every shift just to flex.
    From 0-100 the smaller turbo is the better choice but if you are going to race to 140-150mph id take the larger turbo every day.
    nice. A lot of variables of course....but I always loved smashing people with their $2K+ turbos as well. Their jaws hit the floor when they see you are running a diesel truck turbo that cost you 400 dollars. lol.
    4 different turbo cars/1 BB chevy/1 all motor+nitrous...7 different turbos, 4 different intercoolers, 6 different EMS systems etc etc. Looking to play E36 on boost.

  19. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by Butters Stoch View Post

    Hta35 will spool much quicker than the 6466. Both will make 700 , the 6466 will do it with less boost. If goal is 650 or under HTA is your turbo, if you want 700+ go 6466
    Might as well go 6466 or similar sized turbo and go from there since my new engine will be high whp capable. My area is all highway, there isn't really much stop and go driving. Plus this is no longer my DD, if I take the car out it'll be to do some sort of racing.

    As for diff ratios, the popular two that I see for boosted cars are 3.15 and 2.93, am occasionally the 3.23. Any input on any of those to replace my current 3.46?

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  20. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by Da Infammus 1 View Post
    Might as well go 6466 or similar sized turbo and go from there since my new engine will be high whp capable. My area is all highway, there isn't really much stop and go driving. Plus this is no longer my DD, if I take the car out it'll be to do some sort of racing.

    As for diff ratios, the popular two that I see for boosted cars are 3.15 and 2.93, am occasionally the 3.23. Any input on any of those to replace my current 3.46?
    Is the 3.46 a built diff? If so I have a built 3.15 in my car with about 1,500miles on it
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  21. #71
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    I wish we had a local here with a large frame turbo so I could see if I could tolerate the lag.

    Sent from my GTX3582R
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  22. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by GG///M3 View Post

    Is the 3.46 a built diff? If so I have a built 3.15 in my car with about 1,500miles on it
    Yea, built 3.46 with 40 % lockup. It's a noisy diff but has done it's job very well. Just want something I can depend on that'll be conducive to the new turbo setup.

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  23. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by chikinhed View Post
    I wish we had a local here with a large frame turbo so I could see if I could tolerate the lag.

    Sent from my GTX3582R
    It isn't that bad, but it wasn't what I liked honestly.

    Quote Originally Posted by Da Infammus 1 View Post
    Yea, built 3.46 with 40 % lockup. It's a noisy diff but has done it's job very well. Just want something I can depend on that'll be conducive to the new turbo setup.
    Same here 40% lock
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  24. #74
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    For anyone like me who was trying to gain more knowledge of turbos, this article helped me understand the basics

    http://www.superstreetonline.com/how...urbo-tech-101/

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  25. #75
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    If you are set on 6466 then go for it. The list of stuff you have to replace above 550 is pretty big but given time and money you will get it for sure. The problem will be keeping the HP down before the car is ready and I've seen you at the track!

    Riverview has a thorntons with e85. I think i found about 20 stations in 40 miles with e85. You realize Nick is in Florida right?

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