Nate J.
(oOO\ (|||)º(|||) /OOo)
Titanium Silver/Black Nappa Full 07-18-2001 E39 M5 Heritage (BZ99672). 198,000mi+. Increasing daily. Engine rebuild thread.
(eŌō\ (||||)º(||||) / ōŌe)
Alpineweiss III/Black Merino Full 03-26-2007 E60 M5 Manual (CX08265). 157,000+. Dead starter -_-
RIP, Seabiscuit. Black Sapphire/Schwarz 03-11-2003 530iA Sport (CK39185). T-boned 03-01-2017 at 155,861mi.
Take 2 "Otto" - Toledo Blue/Sandbeige 04-25-2002 530iA Sport (CH98032). Sold 11-10-2017 at 147,743mi.
Take 3 "Manuel" - Toledo Blue/Grau 10-29-2001 530i5 Sport (CE92358). Sold 02-01-2019 at 217,600mi. I regret that. Build Log
Reliable P.O.S. - Green/gray 1995 Camry V6 LE. 270k mi. Sold for space.
My rusty trusty diesel touring made it to Le Mans and back in one weekend and even managed to get 35 mpg out of it. I'm starting to get fond of this car now and will want to fix the rust. Which will be the end of my finances.
Live slow, die whenever
I might be able to get an F30 335i with 97,000 miles. Seems like the N55s are reasonably stout, but the F30 forum is mostly filled with people still under warranty and N20 timing chain guide issues so I am not sure.
95 E34 553i6 LS TR6060 Project
93 E34 525iA Beater with no heaterVANOS kicked in yo!
95 E34 553i6 LS TR6060 Project
93 E34 525iA Beater with no heaterVANOS kicked in yo!
I've been trying to sell my Mom's 04 Mazda 6 off and on for a while now. When Bob's trans lost all gears but 1st and reverse it even ended up being the winter beater till it was nice enough for Jerry to come out of hibernation. By time it's due for a synth oil change, by mileage conventional.
Last fill was M1 at the recommended viscosity of 0w-20 which I've always thought too thin for a 'performance' engine, the 3L Ford Duratec 32v v6.
Considering it's now over 100k miles I really want to up to 0w-30.
Is there any reason other than MPG why such a thin oil would be the spec?
Hang up & Drive!
Jerry .. 85 Toyo MR2 140K .. ( 20V wiring gremlins *grrrr* )
Björn .. 03 BMW 540i///M 148K .. ( beat up allstar *oof* )
Gerta .. 03 BMW 540iT&A 151K .. ( chain guide triage *shakes head* )
Franz .. 96 BMW 318ti 207k .. ( the new, new daily *GRIN* )
Wendy .. 20 Honda Refrigerator 28k .. ( for the wife and kids, has flappy paddles? *squint* )
Resistance was Futile...
"Now, it takes me three months just to fix a door lock because .. crying babies" - rammstein
Easier winter startups?
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
I was also surprised to see our new Highlander (3.5L V6) also uses 0w-20 synthetic oil.
Love the free 5K oil changes and tire rotation for the first 25K miles.
Nate J.
(oOO\ (|||)º(|||) /OOo)
Titanium Silver/Black Nappa Full 07-18-2001 E39 M5 Heritage (BZ99672). 198,000mi+. Increasing daily. Engine rebuild thread.
(eŌō\ (||||)º(||||) / ōŌe)
Alpineweiss III/Black Merino Full 03-26-2007 E60 M5 Manual (CX08265). 157,000+. Dead starter -_-
RIP, Seabiscuit. Black Sapphire/Schwarz 03-11-2003 530iA Sport (CK39185). T-boned 03-01-2017 at 155,861mi.
Take 2 "Otto" - Toledo Blue/Sandbeige 04-25-2002 530iA Sport (CH98032). Sold 11-10-2017 at 147,743mi.
Take 3 "Manuel" - Toledo Blue/Grau 10-29-2001 530i5 Sport (CE92358). Sold 02-01-2019 at 217,600mi. I regret that. Build Log
Reliable P.O.S. - Green/gray 1995 Camry V6 LE. 270k mi. Sold for space.
I am excited I can actually afford one because I was looking into E90s but I am not super thrilled with the looks of them and saw that for a few grand more I could get into an F30. But WOW collision insurance is high as a kite. I might be 22 but if I can get into adult like debt, I should get adult like rates dang-it!
95 E34 553i6 LS TR6060 Project
93 E34 525iA Beater with no heaterVANOS kicked in yo!
Tire rotations are every 5k miles but oil changes every 10k miles. So at 5k you only get tire rotation, then at 10k you get rotation and your first oil change, at 15k tire rotation only, 20k both rotate and oil change, and so forth.Toyota recommends oil change at every 10k miles but tire rotations are done every 5k miles.
Considering there's some 0-20 left in the garage from last time, light weight it is.
Good thing I'm not keeping this mangy ........ er, rusty whip much longer.
Not a stick, the oil filter's 'down there', the turning circle is horrible, and I hate working on transverse V engines.
I also love Hondas.
My lawnmower starts very easily, almost every time, going on almost a decade.
In seriousness i'm a civic, s2000, and NSX fan. Just never owned one.
Before BMW it was Mazda rotaries and Nissan SE-Rs.
I'm honestly surprised the MR2 is a Toyota product.
Well. E90 vs F30? Very different.
I just had a loaner E90 for 2 days. My dad used to have one for a few years, sold it when it needed a small pile of the usual E90 hassles - expensive oil pan gasket job, decarboning, etc. I think he regrets it.
Anyway, having one for 2 days really reminded me how decent those cars are. E90's are proper BMW's I have to say. They have super super low body roll tight suspension road feel, they feel very connected and responsive in a proper BMW manner. Feels like you are operating indeed a 'driving machine'. This one had 225k, and was running out of dash lights to turn on, and it STILL felt really good going down the road and had some good juice for what it was - a non-sport 'plain jane' 330xi.
The F30, those are the real start of the newer cars feel far more generic and less connected. You are operating a luxury transportation appliance. Perhaps a fine one, but nonetheless, barely any BMW feel. IMO. Blindfold somebody and have them drive one of those vs a Lexus and would be hard to pick out the BMW. Watching them drive with a blindfold on would be cool too.
I agree they are not E39/46 attractive, which is why probably I didn't buy one BITD already. But - at least IMO - the key is facelift.
Pre-facelift E90's are awful from the front. That hideous 'eyebrow kidney' is an abomination.
The "LCI" aka facelift E90's are 1000x better. Not only front, but tail of the car is marginally better too.
Not out of the question that I shop for an LCI E90 at some point.
- - - Updated - - -
Dude not even a joke. I have a Honda push mower that we bought for cheap because a small-engine shop said "crankshaft is bent so it vibrates but it still runs great" "other than that always had good maintenance and just had a full service!". I was hugely suspicious of this, and was in a jam for a mower, so I bought it anyway... Ran the thing for a couple weeks and indeed it shook and vibed like crazy. Decided to give it the reward of a quality oil change, with some gucci 'leftover' oil from a car oil change - can't remember what but probably some extra bottle of Rotella or M1 or something.
The nastiest sludge in the world came out of it. After the new stuff went in it purred like a kitten. No shake/vibe at all. I suspect the thing never once had an oil change.
This adventure clued me into the ripoff scam that I believe SOME small engine shops run, and since then I've caught for instance, my father's joint in scamming. When people bring in mowers/snowblowers for the annual once-over, which is supposed to include plugs and oil changes etc. these places won't do crap, knowing that the spark plug has plenty of life in it, and the oil that's in it still has life in it, and the homeowner guy isn't gonna dipstick the oil or check the plug. Seriously my father's joint has been taking his equipment, just sitting on it for a week, then giving it back and charging him a bill for years I think.
Anyway, back to the Honda motor - that was so massively beat on and abused for years and years, but the motor just keeps going and going and runs perfectly, this was all about 6 years ago and I've been running it every week all season ever since. Phenomenal stuff the Honda small engines.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
Agree and lol on above. Trust but verify the shops work. I have a Craftsman mower with a Honda engine for over 10 years now. Open box cheapo score. I've never changed the plug and only change the oil and air filter like every 2 or 3 years, if I remember. Runs flawless. I do run it dry after last cut of season. I do sharpen the blade each year.
98 540i 6, 525 whp, 120 mph 1/4, V3 Si S/C'er @16 psi, W/A I/C, Water/Meth, Supersprint Headers, HJS Cats, 3" Custom Exhaust, UUC Twin Disc, Wavetrac LSD, GC Coil Overs, Monoball TA, AEM FP, Aeromotive FPR, AEM Failsafe AFR/Boost, Style 65's w/275's, M5 Steering Box, Eibach Sways, M3 Shifter, Evans Coolant, 85 Deg Stat, PWM Fan, 10" Subs, B.A. speakers, Grom Aux/BT, Still Rolling as my DD!
My old Torro mower and snowblower got an oil change when they started to knock, lol.
The mower always started on the first or second pull. SB'er had an electric start.
The Craftsman tractor with a Briggs&Stratton engine was a junker but it was free.
Don't need any of them now.
I use a Bad Boy zero turn, damn things got 4 Big Gulp class cup holders, obviously not designed by BMW....
Set the controls for the heart of the sun
I actually had the opposite experience, the F30 felt more like a driver car than the E90 too me. Even the 8 speed auto kept me on my toes.
I have the option today to get an 2013 335i for $15,500 plus my E39. It has 97K miles but its the N55 not the N20. What do you all think?
95 E34 553i6 LS TR6060 Project
93 E34 525iA Beater with no heaterVANOS kicked in yo!
I work at the dealer Jim. I've worked at two Toyota dealerships and every customer gets the same service unless if the customer specifically ask to change oil. Otherwise, there's nothing wrong in changing it at 10k intervals. Have seen cars with 100k+ miles and their internals are still clean.
Bookmarks