What did you do for your E46 today?
I ordered replacement kidney Grills because everything I tried to keep them in place failed, and I'm resourceful. Once the tabs are broken, just replace them and save yourself the anguish.
Oh, and I replaced the first boot off the MAF in the hopes of eliminating my P0171/0174 code that keeps popping up every 30-60 miles. Of course, while I was doing that I noticed the the smaller of the two hoses that branch off it look pinched at the connection - so I snipped off a 1/4 inch for a better fit. And although I bought both boots, I replaced the one only (for now) as my hands are larger than those of a 4-year old.
Last edited by All2kool; 04-14-2016 at 08:51 PM.
I do remember you bringing that up, though I was going to have at it myself.
I'm guessing you'll say that ultrasonic cleaning the manifold is necessary if I want to do a good job, right?
What type of paint? I have paint markers at work but I would have to check their specs.
It was just one of those peace-of-mind things. Starting with clean parts on a rebuild is always nice, but I wouldn't say its necessary. And to me, the price difference between the Besian kit and the DrVanos swap was well worth the saved labor on my part.
For paint, I would think something high-temp wouldn't hurt. Engine Enamel or one of those brands, if not just plain old rustoleum.
Vaico makes the only non OEM DISA valve my stickler Indy uses... He claims they are just as good which is very rare to hear that from him... Altho mine is perfectly fine at 130k mi. Maybe PO replaced it or I've been just lucky... But I think it's 175$ compared to 395$ OBM
I refuse to be defeated.
I just can't drive around with no grills so I tried again this morning to get mine to stay in place. Several methods were not successful: zip ties, wire, fishing line. I finally crafted 'hooks' out of a coat hanger. Works fine, cannot be seen from the outside. The grills could not come loose if they wanted to. If not for the holes in the underside of the hood, this method would not have worked.
Grill1.jpg Grill2.jpg
I also went for a 40-mile drive and have yet to get a SES so perhaps the first boot off the MAF was the fault. While I was installing it, I did notice that the small line that branches off it seemed pinched a bit at the connection. I snipped off a 1/4 and reinstalled. All seems well at the moment but as I have now claimed this P0171/0174 issue solved, it will pop up just the moment I start the car next I'm sure.
Last edited by All2kool; 04-15-2016 at 04:22 PM.
Partsgeek.com sells action crash grills for like 8$ each looks VERY good fitment is 99.999 and looks great
Changed the driver's window regulator with a minimal amount of swearing (my first time)--runs smooth now. My only problem is I must've had a bad connection when I plugged in the airbag (before connecting the battery) to test the regulator, because I now have an airbag light. So, I ordered the Schwaben scan tool from ECS to clear it. There aren't a lot of reviews on it, but it sounded decent for the money.
Last edited by Reasoned1; 04-17-2016 at 08:47 AM.
Today, I cleaned my MAF sensor and, dare I say, the engine ran smoother than ever?
Changed my oil for the the fifth time in 11k miles, detergent sludge removal is really Reviving this motor, probably from the previous owner believing the whole 15000 mile service interval... it's really satisfying watching all that black nasty oil come out of your motor, knowing it wouldn't be that bad if I hadn't used detergent and change it frequently... Which proves the engine was full of sludge when I bought it in December... runs perfect no more rough idle
Picked up a Whalen shift knob and a zhp one. Love the weight of the Whalen one. Got the zhp as a back up one.
2001 BMW 330 CI
2006 Merc C230
Changed out my front wheel bearings with new FAG, new inside and outside dust caps. Also, refreshed front sway bar bushings...with 24mm from 23.5mm. But the 24s hold the bar firm as opposed to the 23.5s which allowed the bar to rattle since it was likely original. A good day.
I just got done with the valve cover gasket on my 330. It was leaking at the back, enough that oil was pooling and i could smell it burning.
The gasket that came off was super brittle. It snapped with almost no pressure in between my fingers. It felt good to get that new rubber gasket in!
Just installed my //M3 side mirrors on my vert.
2001 BMW 330 CI
2006 Merc C230
Yeah I bought mine for my girlfriend this past summer, we got it for 1200$ its got 211,000 on the odometer but it was in a parking lot accident before we bought it so the drivers side is all dented up and its rusting out pretty bad, and the passenger rear wheel bearing and control arm need to be replaced :/ I wanna get that looked after this summer so I dont have to drive my baby in the salt though! xD
Went to drop the top and.... No dice... It started and then stopped... I'm thinking bad sensor/wiring...
Here's my help thread if u guys have any advice
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...alfuntion-HELP!!!
Took her in for a front end inspection...My tech showed me a bulge on the inside side-wall.
These were Fuzion tires, I was planning on replacing them eventually. But with the imminent threat of a blow-out looming, figured no better time than the present.
Introducing Pirelli P7s on the front of my car.
Update: This also fixed my tram-lining, bump-steer, and periodic pulling to the right...Still have a front end shock service to do, but docket for tomorrow is new lug bolts for the front and adjusting my e-brake again, again...again.
Last edited by Doge; 04-23-2016 at 10:53 AM. Reason: Things, stuff, words, sentence
Cleared the SRS light using my new ECS Scwaben scan tool--seems like a nice, well-built rig and was easy to use (synched right up and didn't even use the manual to navigate and clear the light). Tomorrow... more headlight refurb and, maybe, paint touch-up.
About done with my front end freshening: control arms, bushings, shocks (Koni), sway bar links done. Lemforder tie rod assemblies on order as mine are rusted solid plus the inner tie rod shafts are chewed up from someone using a pipe wrench to turn them.
Some things I noticed: when the struts were assembled with the Konis, the lower spring seat to top spring seat distance was about an inch longer than with the stock Boges (sport package car). However the lower spring seat to steering knuckle was the same so I said what the heck, shouldn't be a problem, Koni doing a one size fits all RWD 330i cars, I guess.
Also noticed that when I assembled the left side after the right was done, the sway link top stud didn't line up with the bracket on the strut so I had lever the sway bar down a half inchor so to get the stud into the bracket. The right strut tower was mushroomed and I de-mushroomed it via the BFH and block of wood. Maybe I didn't knock it down far enough.
Got to do the rear shocks and then the ZF auto trans service. The trans pan is all rusted to h*** though it is just severe surface rust from West Virginia and Maryland salt. Will clean that up and paint it if that won't hinder what minor cooling air flow over the pan accomplishes. Any thoughts on that?
Last edited by SteveMD; 04-23-2016 at 11:25 AM.
Changed the glass on my driver's side view mirror, and replaced the cover strips (totally dry-rotted) over my headlights--easiest DIY day ever!
Last edited by Reasoned1; 04-23-2016 at 11:24 AM.
I need to do that, too. Is your mirror heated? I'm assuming that with headlight washers and heated seats, mine has a heated mirror. Where did you get your mirror glass if I may ask?
Little overhaul...
BMW 320d Touring e91 -06 ----- BMW 740iA "ALPINA" e38 -00
Audi UrS4 Avant 2.2T Twincharged @624hp/737Nm -93 ----- Audi 80q B4 2.2T @500hp/620Nm -92
Just fix the transmission error. The stupid quarter coin slipped from the holder above into the gear shift assembly pushing the shift lock solenoid connector out of the way, tripping the error. Simply fish the coin out and plug the cable in
Bought replacement light level sensors. Front was broken, will replace during the week.
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