Did the electric fan changeover. Dealt with two bad power steering pumps in a span of 600 miles before I sourced one that worked. Also had to change the one-year old suction hose (PS reservoir to pump) as it had delaminated with the interior ends looking more like badly clogged arteries.
On Christ the solid Rock I stand, all other ground is sinking sand. (Edward Mote 1797-1874)
Replaced one of two window regulators. Seriously wonder when the last time that window was up all the way. Here's one of the PO's fix.
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Replaced the rear bumper with a replica M-Tech II.
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(click to enlarge)
Last edited by spacecase; 02-17-2020 at 08:19 PM. Reason: typo
Confirmed a fuel delivery issue, very low pressure. I already have a new filter/regulator waiting for install but a new pump is now on the way too.
Removed both tail light assemblies to find possible cause of parasitic drain. PO had tried their hand at bypassing the brown ground wire (known issue) and done terrible job. Connection plug had lots of corrosion residue which I believe was arcing across between terminals and creating a slight short. Female plug I'v cleaned up a bit from what it was, white powder all around terminals.
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I added rain-x window washer fluid, it was 20 degree's & felt like 8...Must....move...south...
Put the top down and drove home from work with a huge smile on my face!
Installed new fuel pump, cleared codes. Engine still misfiring but only one cylinder instead of 3 and no vacuum leaks detected so far after my last repairs this month on the CCV, valve cover gasket, intake boot and DISA o-ring were fixed. This car has been an incredible learning experience so far but as glad I am to learn all this new stuff over the past 6 months, it looks like this week I will finally be driving it once my new ignition coil shows up. Fingers crossed!
Replaced my crank sensor and gave her a tune up, no more rough idle or long start. Still got misfires on 3 4 and 5, gotta make time to swap around my coilpacks and see what's what.
Hoping to soon get my angel eyes wired in but still not sure where to tap in to for those, I saw a guy on youtube tap in to his signal lights and they flash when he turns, looks goofy as hell.
I cleaned the windshield drains on the 2002.
I always had a drip on the passenger side and decided I'd solve this issue on this nice day instead of just placing a bowl under that drip. I used an industrial strength drain cleaner (Hair & Grease) from Home Depot. I squirted it in using a sacrificial hair color dye bottle from Dollar Tree. After a few minutes, the drain was running as clear as I could squirt in the cleaner. Followed that up by rinsing thoroughly with water. Fingers crossed.
I just disabled mine! I never liked the look. Call me old school I guess. Went out a few days ago and found a conglomeration of wiring from the headlights to a connection junction in the passenger side engine bay well. I unplugged it and voila! Now the AE's don't come on at all and all other lights working fine.
Last edited by All2kool; 03-19-2020 at 01:26 PM.
I took it for its first drive in over a month, and only its second real trip out of my driveway since I bought in August. It's still got a few codes, but nothing new has popped up. For the first time the idle is smooth as silk. I've driven it for a total of 115km's since it was certified in December. Hopefully I'm over the hump here and can get some serious driving out of it now. I feel like I've rebuilt 25% of this car just to get to this point.
Replaced threads (Time-sert kit) for spark plug on #4 cylinder plus new coil. All new plugs and she's on the road again.
Replaced a failed coolant return hose (11531436410) and the water valve (64118369805). The valve I suspect was stuck open, which in turn might explain why I had warm air coming from the center vents with the AC on.
On Christ the solid Rock I stand, all other ground is sinking sand. (Edward Mote 1797-1874)
Tie rod ends and 2 new tires. Cleaned the front wheels while they were off. First phase under-hood detailing.
Tire place wouldn't align because control arm bushings are bad so new control arms and bushings are next.
Bald tire in the boot was dented on the inside but not bad enough for them to mount new rubber I guess.
May have damaged one wheel removing it for the tie rod, the lug bolts keep backing out after about 25 miles at 87 ft/lbs. Fml
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Renewed the registration for another two years on the 2002. Sailed through emissions testing like a new car.
Got the new control arms and bushings in. Way easier on those inner ball joints than I thought it would be. Didn't need to move motor mounts at all.
Not sure if hammering the mounts was going to work so I just went pickle fork right away. I didn't feel I had enough room with just jack stands at lowest level holding up the front end.
Unfortunately the ball joints felt pretty good but those bushings were toast. Now those joints have torn boots. Maybe I can give them some new ones.
Feels a lot better but I think strut mounts are next, along with struts. Still get some noise and I think that's the last part that is clunking, unless the sway bar link could make that noise over bumps.
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Nothing. Again.
I've done nothing to it for quite some time. I put snow tires on it back in early November, and changed the oil since then. But, outside of those 2 things, and putting air in the tires on occasion, I've done nothing to it in several months.
Over the past three days, completed the following on the 328Ci; @124K miles:
1. Front Struts: Used KYB 334614/334615 struts.
2. BMW upper and lower spring pads.
3. KYB strut boot kits. I had to trim the length of the bellows. The bump stops were perfect.
4. Gabriel 143082 strut mounts: No real issues with these; came with all hardware, but no grease. Added some grease and installed them. However, the wells on the strut mounts were not sized the same. On one I could use the KYB 22 mm strut nut, on the second one, I had to reuse the original Sachs 21 mm nut as a 22 mm socket would not fit. I wish I had sourced KYB, Sachs or Lemforder strut mounts, but had these laying around since 2015..... Works well though, no issues with steering feel etc.
5. BMW strut tower reinforcement plates. Thankfully, the plate, thickness of the strut tower metal and ECS carbon fiber strut bar went together satisfactorily with the Gabriel strut mounts.
6. Moog stabilizer bar end links.
7. BMW 24 mm front stabilizer bar bushings.
8. Corteco 603820 engine mounts. The originals BMW (Corteco's) were surprisingly in decent shape visually. Used a HF engine support bar for this rather than jacking up the oil pan.
9. Lemforder 1305001 transmission mounts. The original BMW mounts were in decent shape.
10. BMW inner and outer intake boots. This was the most difficult job of all. However, all is well now.
11. Noted some coolant leak and replaced o-rings on the two lower hoses that connect to the expansion tank and mounting plate. Now need to source two new o-rings as I had to steal the o-rings from new spare hoses.
Last edited by aba4430; 03-16-2020 at 02:12 PM. Reason: Added more info.
My weekend projects:
Replaced the rest of my ignition coils since I still had two soft failing coils on cyl 2 and 4.
Did the ATF fluid and filter change which fixed the missed 2nd gear shifts and occasional slipping.
Temporarily fix the ATF leak at the transmission cooler until I can afford new transmission cooler lines. Soon...soon...
Replaced the fuel filter/regulator and the fuel rail connector line because I'm an idiot. PSA for XI owners and also notoriously clumsy folks like myself! When doing the fuel filter check that front clip that holds the hard fuel line against the frame is in place after everything is done. I was careless and knocked it out of its plastic bracket when pulling the regulator off and didn't check that part of the system for problems when putting it back together. I focused only on the direct connections around the filter. That was a $100 mistake that could been much worse. It ended up hanging low enough to rub my drive shaft. I got about 3 miles from the house and pulled over because I smelled gas. It quickly wore a hole in the rubber hose that connects up to fuel rail. Not my brightest moment.
I replaced that fuel line (part#13537548987) and secured the line properly the second time.
Inner tie rods and finally the alignment is done.
Still clunks on bumpy roads. I could get it to make noise by left/right movement of the wheel while I had it up. Driver side and back a bit from the struts. I thought it was going to be the strut mount, but I'm thinking the steering guibo at this point.
And changed passenger window regulator. also checked out the door lock/latch assembly to see why the lock won't stay up when the handle is pulled. Decided I'm not dealing with opening that box up at this point and will probably just find one at the junkyard. I need a lock cover piece for the outside handle anyway. Stupid auto lock on drive...
Replaced all 4 PS steering hoses and reservoir on the 328Ci (@124K miles) with Rein and ZF parts. The most difficult part of the job was the removal of the two hoses that quick-connect to the cooler. Removed the left headlamp, used a Park Tool PT-03 double ended cone wrench (15 mm side) against the plastic spring clips and was able to get enough force to push the clips in and remove the hoses. The old fluid was nasty, but it is done well now and will hopefully last another 75K to 100K miles without a glitch.
The original pressure hose was clamped horizontally, but the replacement part (Rein P/N PSH0100P; BMW P/N 32416774215) is clamped vertically with the top pressure hose section almost resting on the bottom hose section. There is a threaded hole mid-way on the steering rack that would accept a M6 X 12 bolt. I may get a suitable clamp and secure the top hose section to this threaded hole. The only damage incurred was the left turn signal spring mounting clamp broke, so my turn signal will not stay in. Ordered Magneti Marelli replacement turn signals for both sides.
Changed oil and filter yesterday. Today, I replaced rear stabilizer bar end links and bushings with BMW parts. This was an easy job after I removed the rear wheels.
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