So I've broken it down to 2 ways that I'm going to get this exhaust off, first I'm going to try using a rotary tool and metal cutting disk to cut thru the nut that is now not only rusted but beyond stripped, then hopefully the flanges will just be able to seperate, so I can finish cutting the stud and drilling it out when its not underneath the car. If that doesnt work I'm just gunna go with a cutting torch, I really want to avoid this because I dont have much space under the car.
Too anyone that wants to do this job in the future I figured out how to get this off it's actually the "power steering hard line" and has a very simple quick release system, all you have to do is find 2 appropriate tools to grasp either side of the hard line and depress the little plastic clip on the connector. push the clip in while pulling lightly on the hard line and it will disconnect. you should not have to pull very hard to get it out and you will almost feel it pop when youve pushed the clip in properly.
Last edited by Brickk; 04-21-2016 at 01:09 AM.
I used a hack saw and metal cutting blade (duh)...I ended up buying a short hack-style pull cut made by Stanley for the shorter throw areas of my exhaust (bank #1 I think?). Also, I had to cut the blade down to size so I had a stable blade in that small area.
I had an additional issue of the flange being seized together as well, nothing that a large flat head with a hammer wasn't able to (eventually) get free.
I tried to use a thin-kerf rotary attachment on my drill, but it didn't work as well as I hoped...the demo blade on a recip would have worked but I didn't have enough articulation to pull that off...When that boy is on...he don't want to come off.
When I put my exhaust back on the studs were so corroded that I have a small leak at the flange now.
tha boy.jpgkey for scale
It was not easy...I did end up ramming the heat shield a few times, but no puncture. (Also, the blade has to be reverse of a normal hack-saw which is a push-cut...pictured is a pull-cut)
No joke, just getting the exhaust off was a day for me. My shoulder kept giving out since I was relegated to using one arm, but thankfully that was the hardest nut to bust.
Notice how only the top 2 inches are really utilized, that was from the particular nut in question...I did also use that rig for the adjacent nut on that flange, but I was able to start it with the aforementioned rotary cutter.
18tpi will rip right through them nuts, but persistence is required...I was very close to using a torch myself, but I was worried I may slip and do any number of bad things with it. On my back with a torch...yikes.
Yeah that tool would be perfect! how much did it cost to make that? **EDIT**
https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.c...000406127.html
SWEET! I found one in canada for 10$
Last edited by Brickk; 04-21-2016 at 01:17 AM.
So I went out today and bought said tool and as expected it works brilliantly! as you said it definately requires some patience as 2 bolts have taken almost 2 hours and I dont even have the 2nd one out yet! but I have some time before the clutch arrives so im just so happy that it works! I actually didnt cut the end of my blade and some of the ways I found to hold the tool I like the extra 3 inches or so to get into the tighter spots
Last edited by Brickk; 04-22-2016 at 08:32 PM.
Awesome man!
I'm glad I could have helped. I had my suspicions that cutting it was not completely necessary, but I had already done it..That pinch bolt was getting in my way and getting hung up on the exhaust pipe, but it worked for me (plus I had 12" blades, not 10"..that extra 2" would have been a bit too bendy).
I kept having to pause and I was reverse grip on it for most of the job. Holding it fore-grip caused my wrist and forearm to get gassed.
If yours is like mine was, you'll find that flange is the next problem.
There is always a way - Keeping my eye on this thread as I'm thinking of a 330 swap myself! Best of luck
Hahaha yeah I've had my concerns about the flanges but if it comes down to it I will probably just end up cutting the exhaust below the cat on the exhasut manifold so that I dont even have to orry about the pesky flange until after its out of the car. the new engine comes with the exhaust manifold so im not that concerned about getting a little destructive. Would like to try and save that exhaust manifold if I can though. And yes exactly Sam! I never give up because that just means you've failed. xD I am glad that I can be of some help to you as that was the purpose behind starting the thread!
So I have a few questions for the more experienced members out there as this is my first swap I need as much help as I can get I found the donor engine, and the new flywheel and clutch should be here soon. my problem is the engine is an automatic I found the engine really cheap and really close and none of the other ones I was looking at had as low of km either. I had read some forums and it said it shouldnt be too difficult to swap the auto in, basically just a flywheel conversion but does anyone know what will have to be flashed afterwards I mean the engine will be reading as an auto wont it? or because my car was already a manual will it just run properly?
you should be using all your original electronics and original engine computer so it will already be manual... but you will need to get it flashed to 330 software to run well.
You wont be able to install any other engine computer in your car because of the EWS immobilizer.
Last edited by legoman67; 05-01-2016 at 12:02 AM.
Current:
- 09 335i MSport, FBO.
- 98 Euro M3, Estoril Blue
- 04 M3, Carbon Black, 6 Speed Coupe
- 06 M5, Black on Black, Full Leather.
- 73 3.0CS, Tagia Green, 5 speed M30b35 converted
Ex's: 1984 325e, 1988 325IX, 1992 525I, 1995 540i/6, 2002 330i, 2005 330xi, 1992 850i, 2003 330i #1, 2003 330i #2, 2002 330ci, 2004 330ci, 2007 328CI, 2007 335i, 2001 M3, 2006 M5 6 speed
New flywheel and clutch kit came in today. I went with the fx racing stage 1 kit with the chromoly lightweight flywheel. Unpacking I dont see why it would be so cheap, both pressure plate and clutch disk are clearly marked LuK which is the oem brand. I read a bunch of good reviews on them and I can now understand why.
**EDIT** So after some more research it seems to be the m5 organic self adjusting clutch which is almost the same kit that uuc sells.
Last edited by Brickk; 05-30-2016 at 02:12 PM.
13292847_10154237432041170_1407554485_n.jpg
Never posted a picture of the new clutch/flywheel set-up, here she is for anyone who cared to see.
Last edited by Brickk; 06-03-2016 at 01:26 AM.
You did finish this right?
Encounter any other headaches that us aspiring B30 swappers need to know about?
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