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Thread: Rajicase's First Turbo Build, Ballin' On A (Nonexistent) Budget

  1. #26
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    Buy a spa. Be patient. Steedspeed is coming out with a twin scroll. It will cost about $1200 and the first run is pretty much sold. That means people will be selling their old manifolds.

  2. #27
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    No pics with the turbo mounted so we can see clearance?
    -Nick
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    Turbo Camshaft Thread

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by rajicase View Post
    Engine is coming out today. Bitter sweet. Had a ton of fun with the NA set up and it was reliable. Hope im making the right decision...
    Yes, you are. KEEP GOING!

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  4. #29
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    Subscribed.

  5. #30
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    Not a whole lot done today. Pulled the head off old S52.

    But short block arrived Got it on the stand and checked it out. Looks real pretty

  6. #31
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    when's first startup?
    ready for hwy pull vids.
    always trying to make it lighter and faster

    ^^former build: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-neglected-M3/
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    instant grams: doktor_b

  7. #32
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    Hah.. I miss the hell out of this car already Im hoping it wont be too long, but realistically probably 4-6 weeks??

    Today I brought the head to the machine shop to get cleaned and resurfaced. I got the oil pump transferred to new motor, sprocket red loctited on. Put the crank pulley, knock sensors, water pump and pulley onto the new engine. Thats really it. Not much done today.

    Waiting on the .140 MLS HG to get here and then I can get the head back on.

  8. #33
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    Ditch the MLS and go cut ring. And for God's sake, safety wire that OPN or spit weld it!

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  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Da Infammus 1 View Post
    Ditch the MLS and go cut ring. And for God's sake, safety wire that OPN or spit weld it!
    MLS are fine as long as prep work is done right. I have seen plenty last, hell, werent you running one?

    My block/timing cover and head have both been surfaced to a mirror finish. Should be good for quite a while. As far as the OPN goes, Im comfortable with it being red loctited. They really arent as likely to come off as its made to seem here. Gotta think about the shear number of e36s sold in the US and how few(relatively) lost their OPN. Did yours let go? Is that what killed your engine? If so, I can definitely see your side of this lol. But again, your motor had 200k+? and no red loctite. If my OPN backs off WITH red loctite, im doomed lol...

    - - - Updated - - -

    As far as updates, Ill be working 40ish hours over the next three days, so FML and not shits gonna get done. But I did place a big order the other day with all the gaskets needed to reassemble the long block and hopefully will have the engine back in the car by the end of next week!

    Ive decided I am going to make the TCD manifold work. I really really like that manifold, and the WG placement is brilliant IMO. So its going to stay;if I have to get a new turbo, use a spacer to drop my turbo, or fab up some whack ass motor motor mount arm to make it work.. so be it.

  10. #35
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    Thick MLS may not be as reliable as thin one. Smart people are using spacer and cut ring. It's cheaper than doing a thick MLS twice.

    Turbo spacer might make TCD manifold work better. Hopefully you wont need a scavenge pump with the lowered turbo.

  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
    Thick MLS may not be as reliable as thin one. Smart people are using spacer and cut ring. It's cheaper than doing a thick MLS twice.
    I was running an MLS, but it was an N/A setup. I'm a fan of doing things once the right way, and from research the cutring gasket definitely out performs MLS setups like pbonsalb said.

    Also yes, my OPN was the culprit. And mine was tach welded, broke the weld. I wish I had safety wired it, thus my recommendation to you.
    Last edited by Da Infammus 1; 12-10-2015 at 02:52 PM.

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  12. #37
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    I already have the Cometic HG so Im going to run it. It should last quite a while with a freshly decked head & block. I know tons of people on various car platforms than run them for long long times with no issues. It seems like the BMW community has some special dislike of them. I wonder how many of the failures here were due to lack of prep work?

    Hey, this may bite me in the ass.. But if a MLS HG cant last me 20kish miles, FML. I figure I drive this car 10kish a year, and I have no problem doing a HG in 2 years. If it cant last that long with a fresh head and block and ARPs... then shit..

    Quote Originally Posted by Da Infammus 1 View Post
    Also yes, my OPN was the culprit. And mine was tach welded, broke the weld. I wish I had safety wired it, thus my recommendation to you.
    Damn thats some shit right there.....

    - - - Updated - - -

    I spent $190 on the MLS, I cant spend $500ish on a HG. If I had the money, i would go cutring/spacer. Not the case unfortunately.

  13. #38
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    All up to you bro, I'm sure it'll be fine. Just offering up some info on what I've experienced is all.

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  14. #39
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    Go cut ring... You will regret it if you dont
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  15. #40
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    Just an FYI, most people do not place the WG like that because boost control is severely comprimised. You want the exhaust flow to go to the WG as primary and turbo secondary.

    The WG still works in that location, just dont plan on running low boost
    -Nick
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    Turbo Camshaft Thread

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by rajicase View Post
    I already have the Cometic HG so Im going to run it. It should last quite a while with a freshly decked head & block. I know tons of people on various car platforms than run them for long long times with no issues. It seems like the BMW community has some special dislike of them. I wonder how many of the failures here were due to lack of prep work?

    Hey, this may bite me in the ass.. But if a MLS HG cant last me 20kish miles, FML. I figure I drive this car 10kish a year, and I have no problem doing a HG in 2 years. If it cant last that long with a fresh head and block and ARPs... then shit..



    Damn thats some shit right there.....

    - - - Updated - - -

    I spent $190 on the MLS, I cant spend $500ish on a HG. If I had the money, i would go cutring/spacer. Not the case unfortunately.
    That head gasket repair is alot more involved when you have that turbo, manifold, piping, etc, down there. At least what I remember with the spa manifold I'd rather pull the motor than do that job in the car. I wish I had gone with cutring the first time also. The Mls worked but I was never as comfortable as with the cutring. Just my experience

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by wazzu70 View Post
    The WG still works in that location, just dont plan on running low boost
    What do you consider low boost? I have no issues running 10psi on mine but that to me that is low. It's pretty boring at that level too.
    '95 M3 GT35R


  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAWe36boost View Post
    That head gasket repair is alot more involved when you have that turbo, manifold, piping, etc, down there. At least what I remember with the spa manifold I'd rather pull the motor than do that job in the car. I wish I had gone with cutring the first time also. The Mls worked but I was never as comfortable as with the cutring. Just my experience
    I ran 3-4 years and about 20k miles on the MLS without issue. I don't think they will last as long as a cutring. I have run .080, 0.098 and 0.140 with forced induction. Now on a cutring.

  19. #44
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    I know the cutring set up is better. But I cant put $500 into a HG, unfortunately. If it can last me 20k miles Ill be content with the MLS.

    As far is boost levels, my goal was to run off WG spring pressure(8 psi) initially and go from there.

    Id like to break in my new engine NA.. Anyone know if I could run around for 1000 miles or so with the turbo bolted up but w/o the charge piping connected to the intake. Shouldnt be a problem as long as the turbo is getting oil, right?

  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by rajicase View Post
    I know the cutring set up is better. But I cant put $500 into a HG, unfortunately. If it can last me 20k miles Ill be content with the MLS. As far is boost levels, my goal was to run off WG spring pressure(8 psi) initially and go from there. Id like to break in my new engine NA.. Anyone know if I could run around for 1000 miles or so with the turbo bolted up but w/o the charge piping connected to the intake. Shouldnt be a problem as long as the turbo is getting oil, right?
    I wouldnt do this. If anything cut a plate to seal the front of the turbine housing.
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  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by vollosso View Post

    I wouldnt do this. If anything cut a plate to seal the front of the turbine housing.
    Okay, why is that?

    - - - Updated - - -

    Any opinions on a BW S256? Got a buddy who can get me one for pretty cheap. Kinda tempted to go that route.. Thoughts?

  22. #47
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    Easy to overspin the turbo with no piping going to it, finish the job, piping and all and just part throttle everywhere while you break in engine and clutch.

  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by rajicase View Post
    Id like to break in my new engine NA.. Anyone know if I could run around for 1000 miles or so with the turbo bolted up but w/o the charge piping connected to the intake. Shouldnt be a problem as long as the turbo is getting oil, right?
    I would say run without the WG, but that will be loud with the placement of yours. If you could just make some stub pipes and connect with cheap flex tubing that would be great.

    A few hundred miles break in are fine. I was at the dragstrip at 200 miles.
    Last edited by pbonsalb; 12-11-2015 at 07:46 AM.

  24. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by SyCK View Post
    What do you consider low boost? I have no issues running 10psi on mine but that to me that is low. It's pretty boring at that level too.
    10psi is pretty low boost. With a 3.0/3.2L and a GT35 you must be able to make enough backpressure to have the WG work well enough. With a GT40 it probably wont be the case. Good news is the OP has a GT35 too so the manifold should work well for him.

    OP, the BW S256sx is a really nice turbo. Since you already have a GT35 though I would just stay with that.
    -Nick
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    Turbo Camshaft Thread

  25. #50
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    You could always separate the turbo and run just the exhaust housing during break in. This would need a plate to seal the turbine side. Obviously this would be annoying if you need to pull the motor again in 500 miles to install the turbo, but it's an option that won't risk over spinning

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