I see... can't have a leaking rear now can we.
I have the 210 bolted in and the bracket tacked to the subframe. As far as everyone can tell from the pics am I good t o fully weld? Everything seems square and level and the diff is a mm or two off the subframe.
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Looks good, I'd weld that bitch
328i Sedan Twin s366's, 6.0LS, TH400, MS3 Ultimate
9.20 at 150 on 22psi
I can't see fully, but the diff looks biased passenger side. This could be a problem. That bracket should fit tighter to the subframe. I grind those down so it's almost flush. Can't always see by pics, but even the pic of the input flange seems to be biased to the passenger side. You have one shot, make sure its dead nuts on.
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
Seems pretty centered to me in person. There isn't a whole lot of left/right play since the boomerang centers the diff in that axis.
I think I will bolt up the subframe and diff as is before I fully weld it and make sure the driveshaft connects to it straight and then if so I'll fully weld it.
Should I get hubcentric rings for my 15s?
I found that they were helpful when running Style 19s on the front of my E36. Without them I had a significant steering shimmy at times, and with them there was none. Bummed me out, because I'd rather be lazy and not use them. If you're just talking about rears for sticky tires, maybe you can get away without them. I've drifted on Style 19s in the rear without hubcentric rings, and with unbalanced burners. No problem, but that's only up to 70 or 80mph wheel speeds probably.
Yes I'm talking only for the rears with my 15s and drag radials.
I would definitely use proper spacers with integrated hub extender or separate hub extenders like Turner sells and spacers.
Okay Ill look into finding a set. I think I am going to need custom ones since my wheels hub diameter is weird. Anyone got any opinions on these hoosier drag radials?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/275-50-15-HO...VW--jm&vxp=mtr
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Okay Ill look into finding a set. I think I am going to need custom ones since my wheels hub diameter is weird. Anyone got any opinions on these hoosier drag radials?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/275-50-15-HO...VW--jm&vxp=mtr
^^anyone?
Run a bias ply tire. Not radial. Save you some breakage.
1992 3000GT VR4. 4g63 Swap. DSM 2g Auto Trans. 10:1, E85, AEM, FP Super 99 turbo. Best ET 9.98...Best MPH 137.8
Those hoosiers might as well be a bias ply. Id run the hoosiers.
My car on the bias ply was hands down the shadiest car id ever driven in my whole entire life.
328i Sedan Twin s366's, 6.0LS, TH400, MS3 Ultimate
9.20 at 150 on 22psi
Wow a 3000gt? My friend used to have one, it was a vr4 swap converted to fwd. He ran a projected 10 second quarter mile off an 8 second 8th mile
https://youtu.be/JNe-xpTEq-w
Entire rear end is back in the car. 210mm conversion complete.
All I am waiting for is a new flex disc and it'll be back on the road. Super pumped. Got my 275/50/15 mickey Thompson et street Rs, just need to get them mounted. If all goes as planned I'll be going to the 1/4 mile sunday.
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Last edited by familyMAN; 09-25-2017 at 06:06 PM.
1992 3000GT VR4. 4g63 Swap. DSM 2g Auto Trans. 10:1, E85, AEM, FP Super 99 turbo. Best ET 9.98...Best MPH 137.8
What's your prediction ? Or goal ?
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
Call a tow truck while been ng teched in. That way they will be there for you in time for your first pass.
You do have the best chance with those 15's. Although I'm not sure if M/T still uses steel belts in them. Hoosier and M&H use a different belt allowing for more give. When I first started going to the track years ago I was running 235/60/15 M&H DR's. I never broke on them. They flexed a lot. But, that was with M52 TQ and much much less power. On that setup
m52/gt35r I was able to get an 11.4 @128.x. You have the power to easily do that. Preload using the e brake. You will screwup the first few, and look like a fool, but once you learn how to do it right, you will be able to get into the low 11's and 10's consistently. I think consistency is far more important than a glory run. Even if your a little slower at first. Trust me when I say, it takes a ton of seat time, and you will slowly get faster and faster. Good luck.
I think I speak for all of us when I say "can't wait to see your shaft cum Monday".
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
So speaking to some people the et street r is supposed to be comparable to the hoosier. I was all set to get the hoosier but got a good deal on these et street r's brand new.
Few questions;
What type of pressure should I be running in these tires? Also, do they need burn outs to hook?
I really don't want to twist this shaft so unless I get carried away I'm going to be trying to be pretty conservative with launching.
And bruh, teched in? This is the track where people can run 10s and trap 150+ I'm flip flops and shorts. No tech haha.
For radials to hook you need heat. A good second gear burnout will heat them up. Generally what I do is set the line lock and cook them till I see smoke in the outside mirror. But this will be a catch 22 for you. You definitely want to heat them up some, cause spinning in 3rd or 4th is sketchy. But too much heat they will dead hook and you will surely be getting towed. Start off slow, go and have fun, don't try to break any records the first night out with those tires. Practice the e brake technique, heat the tires maybe the first couple times in 1st gear. Maybe don't even go full throttle in 1st gear the first couple runs. This will be hard to do as adrenaline will be rushing and you will say F it and want to kick ass. Oder that driveshaft as soon as you have the coin cause you will want it soon.
Tire pressure..... Start with 17#-18# cold. This will be more like 19 maybe even 20 after your run. Then lower back to 17-18 ish. If it feels like its wandering at 130+ then add a psi or so.
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
The ET street R is a lot different than the old MT radials. The old MT radials were pretty much a street radial with a very soft compound and you could put alot of miles on them. The ET street R actually wrinkle up like the hoosier radials do. Yes they will require a burnout to work properly. 6500 rpms in 2nd gear for 5 seconds or so would be a good starting point. I would start about 18-19 psi at the track and work down to 16 at the lowest.
Hrrmmmmm I got my two step rev limiter at 4500. Idk if I'll be able to burn out with that. Why 2nd gear instead of 1st?
You need some tire speed to get the tires hot. Remember you will be driving through a water puddle with a slick tire. It is very easy to spin the tires in the burnout box because of the water. You won't need the two step. Do you have a line lock?
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