Member
That's okay.Originally Posted by E36 HateR
I have personally loctited three oil pumps on three different engines, all of which were beyond a pain in the ass to remove 10s of thousands of miles down the road.
I have also had two local buddies loctite their oil pumps and one of them was torn down a few months back after 50k miles of track/drifting/street, and it too was a bitch to remove.
Like I said, if you ever tried loosening an OPN that had red loctite applied to the threads, you would know that nut would never come off on its own.
Last edited by rajicase; 06-16-2017 at 07:48 PM.
LICENSE SUSPENDED
#red/loctite/is/no/joke
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
Troll level: Master
I kmow what red loctite does, i have it everywhere, oil pump nut, valve cover studs, flywheel bolts, crankshaft bolt, harmonic balancer bolts.
Ive done it, id rather the safety wire and spot weld to keep in check.
Then again 7700 rpm is a little more.
LICENSE SUSPENDED
Agreed.
Your there, its a sense of security.
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
Cantry Member
I like lockwire but then again I'm always doing it.
'97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.
Member
I spun my last s52 to 7500 and my buddy did as well for 50k miles; nut was damn tight.
Id never weld the sprocket on for several reasons; 1) for removal later on, wtf 2) I have seen several people with welded OPNs have their shaft shear off. No definitive proof that it was the weld that weakened the shaft, but the correlation is strong enough to make me suspicious. SO great, your OPN didn't back off, but the shaft sheared off.
If it helps you sleep at night knowing you welded/loctited/wired/staked the nut on, great. But I have NEVER seem a loctited OPN come loose so I am going to go with what I know works and what has worked for me on three separate engines.
- - - Updated - - -
Wire is great if done right; key word there though <<<---
But I don't think it has any advantage to Loctite, simply cause I have never seen either one fail. Seeing them as equals, I prefer the easier method.
Member
Is it that much harder to wire and run the other pre-requisites while your in there though? Just a thought. I'm all about future proofing, regardless
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Member
Wire is a bit more work; I would never ever stake the threads or weld the nut. Either Loctite it, Loctite and wire it, or wire it; at some point you are beating a dead horse and doing work for the sake of doing work. And that doesn't make your engine more reliable. A loctited OPN is more than adequate. If wire makes you happy, do that as well. Your call.
Member
It's seems we are doing work for the sake of doing work to begin with. When I build my motor I will do the exact things that people making 700+ tell me to do
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Member
Better safe than sorry
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Member
No, I am doing work for the sake of building a reliable motor.
If you want to do work for the sake of doing work, go for it. If it helps you sleep at night, then its worth it to you. Doing useless shit just because some people on the internet said so doesn't help me sleep. What helps me sleep is knowing that my method for securing my OPN has never failed to my knowledge.
Member
I'm a big fan of the lockwire (Thanks Brad). I have also put a spot of red Loctite on for shits and giggles. Raj, you mention how much of a pain it is to remove the red Loctited OPN. Wouldn't it be a shit ton easier to clip some safety wire and just unscrew the nut when the time comes?
Member
Pain in the ass on install vs. removal. Doesn't really matter to me!
LICENSE SUSPENDED
Jesus Christ,
Failures happen to those that have nothing or shit luck. Even that's not even the case, I have stock 350k E36's coning to my shop with original bottom ends.
/ oil pump nut discussion.
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
Member
Yes, oil pump nut failure is very unlikely even from the factory. How many E36s were sold? How many of them ever lost an OPN? A very small fraction. Do whatever makes you comfortable, because whatever it is will work...
Ring Master
I tack mine with the tig. 0.01% heat added.. takes 12 seconds..
Whatever works and is easiest.
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Last edited by vollosso; 06-17-2017 at 12:31 AM.
1989 535i - sold
1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current
1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53
u owe my mule an apology
Well a stock E36 325i doesn't twist up the front of the crank like an 89.6mm stroke with 900 hp at 7200 rpms does. Its the torsional vibration of the crank that backs the nut off and breaks oil pump shafts so its dependent on RPM, stroke, and power. Anyway carry on.
86 325es, 2.8L m50, S476sxe, ProEFI 128 ecu, e85, solid rear axle, TH400 trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties, popsicle sticks, tape
best time 9.06 @ 151.8 mph, best 60 foot 1.30
Member
Oil pan and drivers motor mount arm painted black and finished with a 2k clear.
ForumRunner_20170617_125537.jpg
Member
Probably should have asked this before I installed everything but the middle oil expander/spacer ring ; it doesn't matter which side faces up or down right? It didn't mention it on the JE ring sheet so I just put them on the piston and clocked them according to the sheet.
Cantry Member
The expander ring swings both ways.
'97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.
Member
u owe my mule an apology
Did you get that snap ring all the way in on the 4th piston? Oh well, I'm sure its fine. Sleep tight tonight!
86 325es, 2.8L m50, S476sxe, ProEFI 128 ecu, e85, solid rear axle, TH400 trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties, popsicle sticks, tape
best time 9.06 @ 151.8 mph, best 60 foot 1.30
Member
Diabolical
always trying to make it lighter and faster
^^former build: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-neglected-M3/
current build: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...car-build.html
instant grams: doktor_b
Ring Master
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1989 535i - sold
1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current
1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53
Member
Lmao!
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