Fans on an intercooler are very effective at getting the heat soak out at slow speeds. I'm going to be building a new intercooler for mine and thinking about selling my vibrant core and getting a Garrett. I've read really good things about them.
Also; to those running dual 450s, are you running both pumps full time or are you triggering the second pump off a hobbs switch?
Two 450s full time seems like a retarded amount of fuel at idle and also probably heats up the fuel unnecessarily. However, I would much prefer to cut out any weak links or potential failure points, such as a hobbs switch... Thoughts?
If its a split feed tank you have to run both
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1989 535i - sold
1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current
1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53
I run both 450s in parallel from each side continuously and monitor fuel temps on the OBC from an ethanol sensor.
In addition to doing the fans on the intercooler I also sealed the intercooler to the rad which isolates the air from the intercooler and the from the kidney grill inlet. I did some testing to confirm that if the two aren’t sealed from each other the efficiency of the intercooler is crap. To test it I put plastic bags over the kidney grills and did highway WOT pulls and saw great improvements on the IATs. Water temp went up with the kidney blocked, that’s why I went with isolating the top and bottom inlets. If you don’t isolate the top and bottom inlets the kidney grill air goes down behind the intercooler and you don’t have a pressure differential across the intercooler which is required for any heat exchanger to work as it should.
Last edited by chikinhed; 02-10-2018 at 10:45 AM.
Guess its about time for an update;
So a lot has happened in the last 8 months. Crashed the M3, fixed it, got it back on the road, yada yada..
Shortly after getting it back on the road I blew up my 3rd ZF 5 spd. Thought it was the bottom end so I pulled the motor like an idiot. While the engine was out I decided to replace the rod bearings for the hell of it. Upon first start I was getting a really bad bottom end knock. Sounded like rod knock. Super frustrated with the car so I said f**k it and gave up.
Fast forward to a few days ago, I got the car towed to my new house and pulled the oil pan to investigate. Im 90% sure what happened was when I had the engine out I leaned on one of the tabs on the windage tray; was bent in and had damage from what looked like where a rod cap was smacking it. Pretty sure that was the source of my knock. So hopefully gonna get it back on the road real shortly here.
Other news; bought a 2007 Kawasaki Zx6r and a house so got myself a nice little 2 car garage to work in and have been enjoying the bike and my 135 in the absence of my m3.
RACEKAR en route to my new house. Looks pitiful , I know. Flat tire up front. License plate crooked from a screw missing. Almost a years worth of dust. Almost done neglecting the poor thing.
Below is also pictured the spot on the windage tray that I believe was the source of my knocking. Also a pic of my bike and the 135 on one of the best roads in Alabama!
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Last edited by rajicase; 10-21-2018 at 05:45 PM.
It looks like the turbo E36M3 is no longer the most important thing in your life. I have had mine for 13-14 years and it has never been parked for a year. Broken many times. Shared my driving with 4 other cars. And been with my through 3 or 4 houses. But only one wife. I think you should give the E36M3 more attention.
Keep in mind you also don't have to make 800-900 whp in a 3200lb car to have fun either lol. (Stop breaking shit and know your limits!!!)
Some food for thought:
My local speed shop runs 2 drag cars. Both have engines making just over 1000 HP N/A. He runs the same model power glide transmission in both cars, which is rated for 3000 HP. He has to rebuild both transmissions after a season of racing, which in Canada is limited to about 8 to 10 track events.
Having a transmission that is rated for X HP, doesn't mean it will last forever.
At one point I had 4-ZF transmissions in my shop in anticipation of "breaking parts". I put serious $$$ in a clutch and shifter thinking that this was going to be the way to go. After less than 2000 miles of driving the car with that setup, I decided it wasn't for me. I knew torque wise I was on the edge of breaking 3rd gear, and I wasn't even fully turned up. Secondly, the transmission didn't shift as fast as my arm wanted to.
If I was to do all this again, I would think 2 steps or "build revisions" down the road. While I knew that I wanted to make 450rwhp with the car in 2011 when I started, I should have been thinking about the 800hp, and 1000hp goals that would follow. That would have saved me years of headaches, and nearly $20k in transmission related expenditure.
Buy an SMG from an E46, they're super cheap and you can just add the shifter detents to it to make it a normal old 6 speed. It's a small amount of machine work to the bell housing to add grooves for the C clips but overall simple and seems to save a few hundred at least. But you also need the front half of the driveshaft, shifter linkage and carrier and the correct clutch disks.
1997 328is - Megasquirt PNP, Holset HX35, Deka 80lb injectors, SPA T3, Precision PW39 WG, Synapse Synchronic BOV, DKM Organic Twin Disc Clutch, Innovate LC-2 W/B, Mishimoto Intercooler, Mishimoto Catch Can, Mishimoto Rad, Devils Own Meth, Porsche 911 calipers with E46 M3 rotors, Corsa Exhaust
So was one of rods hitting the windage tray?
I BELIEVE so. I have been unable to find anything else that would cause a bottom end knock. All the rod caps were on the correct rods, in the correct orientation and all were torqued to spec. All the bearings looked fine. All plastigauged in spec. I got everything back together and should be able to start it in the next couple days and ill know if its fixed or not.
- - - Updated - - -
I haven't decided what Im going to do for the trans. Maybe ill get a few thousand back come tax season and Ill just bite the bullet and do a conversion.
1989 535i - sold
1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current
1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53
Welp. Engine still knocking as bad as ever. Dont know any more. But this is no longer fun, I do know that.
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does the knock go away when u press in the clutch alittle?
just had to ask because mine did this and it turned out the tranny was blown instead.
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