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Thread: Rajicase's First Turbo Build, Ballin' On A (Nonexistent) Budget

  1. #1
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    Excited this is finally happening

    My car is a 1995 M3, I purchased a few years back for $3k as an automatic with a blown HG and completely falling apart. I have since refreshed the entire suspension, cooling, engine, drivetrain, etc etc. It is no gem, but its getting there A year and a half ago I decided it was smart to shift into 2nd going 85. Well that was the end of my s50. In went the s52 and I was determined to make it a NA beast, and so I did. Got massive cams, longtubes, 3" exhauast, etc etc. Bolt on e46 m3s are a breeze, 350/370s? LOL. Evo X? No problem. B6 S4? HAH. VF SC e36 m3? Couldnt get me either But alas, I grew tired of that and here I am.

    SO Ill start off by saying I am completely inexperienced when it comes to FI builds. I have never put together a boosted car of any kind so I really will be learning as I go. My goal is a reliable and daily drivable turbo M3. I love driving this car so reliability is a must. I want to be able to take it to the grocery store or cross country road trips without worry and I will gladly sacrifice power for reliability.

    Due to my incredibly tight budget, I have spent the better part of a year searching for used/second hand new parts. Im hoping I can pull this off and maybe show some people that you don't need to spend $10k on a turbo build without sacrificing quality and reliability.

    I will be keeping track of prices and listing/updating them here. My goal is to purchase name brand parts where important; despite being on a budget, I wont sacrifice quality. I will also add that I will be fabbing up all of my own exhaust and intercooler piping, so no $$ spent for fab work.

    Current parts list w/prices:
    38mm (genuine)Tial wastegate: $70
    TCD T4 cast iron bottom mount manifold: $75
    Brand new (genuine)Tial 50mm BOV: 80
    AEM digital wideband gauge w/02 sensor and harness: $35
    Autometer analog boost gauge: $30
    Cometic .140 HG $190
    Mandrel bent aluminized steel piping(various diameter and bends): $50
    Misc AN fittings: $15
    Misc: PTFE braided hose($20)
    Ebay 24x12x3 3" in/out intercooler: $80
    F1 stage 4 6 puck clutch/PP $220
    New ARP head studs: $80
    Borg Warner S256sx $500
    Full 3" Exhaust: FREE(built myself about a year ago for my NA build)
    Bws256sx $500
    Catch can: $15
    Turbo motor mount: $60
    NEW TRM OBD1 Turbo tune(New MAF, injectors, flange, pigtail, software): $830(after trade in of my old tune+20% off cyber monday)


    Build officially starts Monday, which is when my S52 gets pulled. But I have started some stuff the past few days; mounted the IC and started on the cold side piping.
    Last edited by rajicase; 08-27-2016 at 12:04 AM.

  2. #2
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    I am not sure the TCD manifold is a good choice. My recollection is that they locate the turbo differently than most other manifolds, requiring a tangential turbine housing. I would stick with the tried and true Spa.

  3. #3
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    Put the maf where you're planning up on the underside. Did you already mount the bov?

    98 Fern Green M3/2 - Precision 6870/AR Designs Twin Scroll/RK/E85
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
    I am not sure the TCD manifold is a good choice. My recollection is that they locate the turbo differently than most other manifolds, requiring a tangential turbine housing. I would stick with the tried and true Spa.
    Hmm are you thinking of this one? And tangential? Opposed to on center? If im not mistaken arent most of the exhaust housings tangential? Seems like all the pt, garrett, BW, etc that I see are tangential? Unless im confusing this term? I really LOVE the wg placement on the TCD mani. Its so nice being up top and easily accessible. Lemme give you pics and you can lemme know what you think:




    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by NY98M3 View Post
    Put the maf where you're planning up on the underside. Did you already mount the bov?
    Why on the underside?

    I havent mounted either the maf flange or BOV yet. Wanted to make sure all was well with that and get yalls feedback before I tore up my IC piping. The other place I was thinking was down here to hopefully avoid getting rid of cruise control:

  5. #5
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    Put it on top, in the straight as far away from BOV possible. But also take in consideration , you may want to add a meth kit someday. So not right up to the tb boot.
    Last edited by Butters Stoch; 12-05-2015 at 11:07 AM.
    1996 332IS
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  6. #6
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    Will be following this closely! I am going to start piecing together a kit too. Sorry if I missed it, but who are you going with for tuning?

    1995 M3 S52 turbo (Sold, like an idiot) -----------------------------------1998 M3/4/5 (Hopefully turbo soon, Nope sold this too)..................................E92 335i(God, I miss the E36's)

  7. #7
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    Put it on the underside, looks much cleaner and its still easy to get to.

    Put the bov by the IC so even if its slightly open it wont interfere with maf voltage.

    Congrats on going turbo! Its really addicting, and you are right, 10k doesn't have to be put into the build up front but things add up quickly. Just the upgrades im going to do for the springtime are to totaling around 5500-6k, and im still going to add paint and bodywork and I'll probably be 10k all said and done for next year and still be on a stock block.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmuum3 View Post
    Will be following this closely! I am going to start piecing together a kit too. Sorry if I missed it, but who are you going with for tuning?
    Don't you have a turbo m3? What are your plans? I am going with TRM for a few reasons; 1) they are fairly close(within driving distance) 2) I had their NA tune and it was flawless. I highly recommend TRM when people ask me about tuning. I have had three tunes from different vendors and theirs was by far the best. And they always responded to my questions quickly. Cant say the same about some others. Great all around.... 3) I am getting it brand new for $830 which I feel is very reasonable and Ill get free revisions and a dyno tune included. Tuning was one thing I was not willing to cheap out on, period.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by E36 HateR View Post
    Put it on the underside, looks much cleaner and its still easy to get to.

    Put the bov by the IC so even if its slightly open it wont interfere with maf voltage.

    Congrats on going turbo! Its really addicting, and you are right, 10k doesn't have to be put into the build up front but things add up quickly. Just the upgrades im going to do for the springtime are to totaling around 5500-6k, and im still going to add paint and bodywork and I'll probably be 10k all said and done for next year and still be on a stock block.
    Thanks bro, read through both of your threads a while back

    Yeah I could have turbod my stock s52. It was in amazing shape considering it had 220k+ miles on it. I spun it to 7500 daily and it never missed a beat. 200psi across all 6, used little oil, etc. BUT I have always wanted a new engine. Like brand new. And this one has;
    New KOLB bearings
    ARP rod bolts
    ARP mains
    Arias forged pistons w/ hastings nitrided rings
    Line honed/decked
    New timing chain
    Magnafluxed rods(I still MIGHT put eagles in, not sure)
    New pilot bearing, gaskets, seals, timing cover, etc etc..

    So for $2050 I figured it was a solid deal.. would have cost significantly more to put together if I did it and after I sell my S52 I should end up with it for $1400ish. Not bad.
    If it werent for the short block purchase, I would actually be making money so far

    And yeah, I know all the small shit I will need at this point will add up, but it shouldnt be TOO awful.

    I think if you can do the fab work yourself(IC piping, exhaust, etc) youll save A LOT right there. Having a shop supply mandrel bent pipe and weld everything up including a full exhaust, charge piping, etc would probably run close to $1500.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Butters Stoch View Post
    Put it on top, in the straight as far away from BOV possible. But also take in consideration , you may want to add a meth kit someday. So not right up to the tb boot.
    Good idea. Long term plans include either meth and 93 OR converting to E85. I have plenty available locally and my pistons are 10.5:1 so if/when I go to E85 I can just run a stock thickness HG and run with it. Not any time soon though.
    Last edited by rajicase; 12-05-2015 at 01:03 PM.

  9. #9
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    He meant on center housing for the TCD, not tangential. As you say almost all turbine housings are tangential.

    I know the TCD M20 manifolds required on center housings, but I didnt even know they made M5x manifolds. Determine if on center housings are required as there may not be any for the GT series turbos. Its all for oldschool T4 turbos that I have seen.
    -Nick
    91 E30 M42 on VEMS

    Turbo Camshaft Thread

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by wazzu70 View Post
    He meant on center housing for the TCD, not tangential. As you say almost all turbine housings are tangential.

    I know the TCD M20 manifolds required on center housings, but I didnt even know they made M5x manifolds. Determine if on center housings are required as there may not be any for the GT series turbos. Its all for oldschool T4 turbos that I have seen.
    The guy I bought it from was running a pt6766 on it. So I figure if a 6766 could fit, a 35r should be no problem. There was also a build thread where a guy used a comp turbo(which im sure was tangential). So im optimistic it will work. Would the concern be about it not clearing the frame rail or the block?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by E36 HateR View Post
    but things add up quickly. Just the upgrades im going to do for the springtime are to totaling around 5500-6k, and im still going to add paint and bodywork and I'll probably be 10k all said and done for next year and still be on a stock block.
    Yup, lol my bill for next year is looking to be 7-10k, and I still need to paint the car. But I have to buy a place this year or il be living In my car Maybe 2017 I'll paint, maybe lol

  12. #12
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  13. #13
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    Raj

    Nice to see you going turbo. Looks like you're heading in the right direction. I did a similar build last winter.

    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...et-turbo-build.

    Put the BOV as close to the IC as possible. Ideally you want as much straight pipe before the MAF as possible to reduce/eliminate turbulence. You want as much distance between the MAF and BOV as possible. My BOV is a little higher than what you have in those pics but not much.

    If you haven't done anything about the turbo oil drain line I'll offer my 2 cents. Don't bother welding a bung onto the oil pan. Get a fitting that uses the drain plug hole. It's simple and it works. I had a -10AN bung welded onto my pan. The vertical distance to the turbo was pretty short. I finally got it to work but it took a while. The offset angle combined with the short vertical rise caused the drain hose to kink. It also put a lot of stress on the fittings so they leaked. Going directly to the drain hole would have been much easier.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by wazzu70 View Post
    You can live in a car, but you can't race a house.

    Words of wisdom
    Nonsense!

    Ever heard of the VR6 turbos all the VW/Audi guys love? Well Winnebago built an RV with a Eurovan chassis and that engine. Slap a turbo on it and you CAN race a house!
    1997 328is - Megasquirt PNP, Holset HX35, Deka 80lb injectors, SPA T3, Precision PW39 WG, Synapse Synchronic BOV, DKM Organic Twin Disc Clutch, Innovate LC-2 W/B, Mishimoto Intercooler, Mishimoto Catch Can, Mishimoto Rad, Devils Own Meth, Porsche 911 calipers with E46 M3 rotors, Corsa Exhaust

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by flyfishvt View Post
    Raj

    Nice to see you going turbo. Looks like you're heading in the right direction. I did a similar build last winter.

    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...et-turbo-build.

    Put the BOV as close to the IC as possible. Ideally you want as much straight pipe before the MAF as possible to reduce/eliminate turbulence. You want as much distance between the MAF and BOV as possible. My BOV is a little higher than what you have in those pics but not much.

    If you haven't done anything about the turbo oil drain line I'll offer my 2 cents. Don't bother welding a bung onto the oil pan. Get a fitting that uses the drain plug hole. It's simple and it works. I had a -10AN bung welded onto my pan. The vertical distance to the turbo was pretty short. I finally got it to work but it took a while. The offset angle combined with the short vertical rise caused the drain hose to kink. It also put a lot of stress on the fittings so they leaked. Going directly to the drain hole would have been much easier.
    Thanks man

    Read through your thread as well!

    About the drain plug drain idea.. I thought about this, but how would it drain since it would constantly be submerged in oil? I thought that was the whole point of welding a bung on higher than the drain bolt? Draining to the plug would certainly be easiest, but I want to make SURE my oil drains adequately.

  16. #16
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    Engine is coming out today. Bitter sweet. Had a ton of fun with the NA set up and it was reliable. Hope im making the right decision...

  17. #17
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by MisterM52 View Post
    Twin Charge it RAJI! GO!! Lol
    Lol I was tempted to try and make a Whipple or kenne bell work. That would be one sick build on an e36...

  19. #19
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    I'll chime in since I have the TCD mani with a GT35R and tangential housing. As it is the turbo sits too close to the motor mount, so much so that the inlet is maybe 1mm from touching the mount (UUC poly). I have trimmed the mount to try and help but this has not worked but I have the AKG mount for turbo applications though I have not had the chance to install it, it may help and it may not. Not sure what I can do if it doesn’t but I'll figure something out as it is pretty annoying since it interferes with the filter attaching to the inlet.
    '95 M3 GT35R


  20. #20
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    What motor mount arm??

  21. #21
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by rajicase View Post
    what motor mount arm??
    trm
    '95 M3 GT35R


  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by rajicase View Post
    Thanks man Read through your thread as well! About the drain plug drain idea.. I thought about this, but how would it drain since it would constantly be submerged in oil? I thought that was the whole point of welding a bung on higher than the drain bolt? Draining to the plug would certainly be easiest, but I want to make SURE my oil drains adequately.
    Ask Butters about the drain setup. He used the drain plug hole on his previous turbo build. Never had an issue. As long as the turbo drains that's all that matters.

  24. #24
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    subscribed for boosted boston green goodness.
    always trying to make it lighter and faster

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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by SyCK View Post
    I'll chime in since I have the TCD mani with a GT35R and tangential housing. As it is the turbo sits too close to the motor mount, so much so that the inlet is maybe 1mm from touching the mount (UUC poly). I have trimmed the mount to try and help but this has not worked but I have the AKG mount for turbo applications though I have not had the chance to install it, it may help and it may not. Not sure what I can do if it doesn’t but I'll figure something out as it is pretty annoying since it interferes with the filter attaching to the inlet.
    Yup... Got this exact issue. Turbo is like a mm from the motor mount arm and the arm is covering up half the inlet. So now I guess I can either get a different bottom mount manifold, use a spacer to push the turbo further down(any input on this????) or go top mount.... shit.

    Well today was eventful:



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