I've made efforts searching some, attempting repair, and have not had any luck. I hate starting threads but not really sure where to go from here as I'm pretty dumb in regards to electricity. Situation below--any suggestions appreciated.
Car is a new to me 95 M3 (My other 95 M3 was rear-ended at a redlight....). I was warned before purchasing that the car had recently not cranked by seller so the car was delivered to me and successfully push-started. Car is a stripped track car with a switch for power and a push button start (note: no ignition tumbler or key anymore.)
0. Attempting to start car results in dash light dimming and maybe a faint singular click.
1. Swapped batteries with my other M3. No change to starting. Made sure to have battery on trickle charger for a few days prior--no change. Voltage 12.5~ if I recall. This has ruled out the battery.
2. Removed intake manifold, checked voltage at starter posts per Bentley manual and it was OK. Ordered Bosch remanufactured starter "http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=273452&jnid=299&jpid=0". Installed "new" starter, reinstalled all the parts I took off.
3. Battery voltage checked at 12.6V, attempt start, lights dim, maybe the same faint click, no crank or any improvement.
Potential diagnosis questions:
I have heard before that sometimes remanufactured starters are dead on arrival. I really hope this isn't the case. I'm not in a huge hurry to remove everything again and replace the starter with a different one. Is there a way to test a starter out of the car?
I've seen on other threads to check for grounds, but if my lights are dimming would that rule out a ground issue? If so how would I check?
I would think that the lights dimming means that I can rule out the immobilizer system as a culprit--any argument to that?
I haven't checked to see what happens in regards to voltages on the starter terminals when I try to crank--I may be able to get some leads in there to check--what would this tell me and which terminals to try (there are 3 terminals) ?
Again any suggestions or answers are greatly appreciated.
Update: Found something that looks "off" finally. Voltage at the solenoid terminal (black wire, bottom most post on starter) to ground when cranking only goes to 7.0V when attempting to crank. Main battery power post showed same voltage as battery (12.1V today.) Across my ignition switch I have 12.1V with switch "off" and then 0V across it when cranking. What could this be--could I have a voltage drop between ignition switch and this terminal--would this be attributed to bad wiring or what?
Top post showed 1.3V when attempting to crank..I don't know what the top post actually is for though so I don't know how relevant it is.
Last edited by knc; 11-27-2015 at 11:59 AM.
The solenoid contains a coil, the coil is a resistance so it will not read 0V as that would be a short circuit to ground.
Check the engine earth strap (resistance from outer case to an earth on body should be zero)
Check the battery earth strap at both ends.
If earth good (sometimes I add another earth with a jump lead to test if being lazy) I'll start to run through it properly.
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^^^^^ check this first. Remove that strap and clean all the contacts. Replace the strap. It runs from your passenger engine mount bracket to the chassis of the car.
If that doesn't fix it check the 3 wires going to the starter. Each one has a different sized eyelet. The biggest one is obvious. The other 2 are not as obvious. The nuts that secure each of those 2 smaller ones are different sizes. Make sure the larger of the 2 is on the stud that uses the larger nut.
Your car is a 95. If it has a production date prior to 1/95 you can test the starter from the engine bay without a key. Take the cover off the round 20 pin diagnostic port. Look to make sure there is a pin in the pin 11 slot. Put a jumper wire between pin 14 and pin 11. Make sure the car is in neutral. This will make the starter crank.
Bleed your cooling system http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1709482The ULTIMATE OEM Alarm/Keyless thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1792200
Tried to look for diagnostic port start option, pin 11 not populated on my car unfortunately. Was fairly confident that I got all the eyelets correct as I labeled them--for kicks I had tried to put the smallest one on the 2nd biggest post and it was difficult but possible, but due to this and labeling I was pretty confident I had it right.
Cleaned up ground straps and associated studs/nuts/bolts for block and for battery. Found a decent amount of grime on block ground strap connections. Cleaned up and it cranked! Multimeter was showing ~9.7V across solenoid post to block when cranking as opposed to the early 7.0V when it would not crank. Now I noticed I have a significant fuel leak from having removed the fuel rail, likely at a hose clamp. Not looking forward to hunting this down and potentially removing the intake manifold (and fuel rail) again.
Lesson learned for anyone reading--before replacing starter clean your ground straps. Thanks for the help.
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