E46 twin turbo 5.3 4l80e swap

[stix]

Subscribed, great build.

I'm very surprised the 4L80E cleared without any issues.

May I ask what oil pan you're using with the CX Racing mounts?

I'm considering trying out the the GM muscle car pan. Do you think this pan will clear?

http://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Perf...ductId=1221210

I ended up using the holley pan, there was a small clearance issue with the pan hitting the rack once I moved the 4l80 up into where it's suppose to be at. I think I'm going to shave alittle off the rack ,maybe bend the tabs that hold the rack in place and or place a washer under the mounts to raise the engine just enough to clear.I don't think the GM pan would work i think it would hang to low.

[stix]

Finally got around to working on the car again, and updating. I got it all wired in all I have left is to run fuel pump wire back. Got it to crank over with the key took me alittle while to find the starter wire. Fuel lines are mostly done waiting on fuel filter to finish them up.


Turbos will end up somewhere here
I'm going to run ebay headers down and foward, we will see how long they hold up clearance is good on both sides.

Its a thight fight by the water pump I tapped it and ordered 90 fittings for that, ac is still a big question might have to massage the bottom of them a good amount.

[richzx]

Would the headers fit in the normal orientation with the exits facing the rear?

[stix]

Would the headers fit in the normal orientation with the exits facing the rear?

No they are too long and the steering shaft is in the way, primaries are too big also

[fallguy]

Cool project, looks like its going to be tight for the down pipes.

Do the headers fit flowing upwards facing forwards, then the turbos would be hung off them?

[mapleridge]

great thread. did you mention if this is an iron or aluminum block. also, would really love if you could document the whole headlight build. love the rings you made.

[Albertan]

For my E36 LS swap I used a Rally Road adapter to use an E32 7 series differential. Got LSD 3.62 ratio. It is 210mm which would be the same as an E46 M3 but much more
easily available ie cheaper.

[stix]

Cool project, looks like its going to be tight for the down pipes.

Do the headers fit flowing upwards facing forwards, then the turbos would be hung off them?

They do but its a way tighter fit, there's more space for the downpipe with them down and foward I think, they can go either way I'll find out next when we start mounting the turbos what will work then

[stix]

great thread. did you mention if this is an iron or aluminum block. also, would really love if you could document the whole headlight build. love the rings you made.

It's an iron block 5.3 , rings were taken out of a 2015 x5 and I cut them down to fit the e46 housing, still haven't finished them I'll post more pics when I get back to them

[stix]

Finished fuel lines last night, found a filter at autozone that transitions from 3/8 to the oem 5/16 lines under the car.In the feature I might run 6an line all the way back to the fuel pump, but for now I had some fittings laying around and it worked out

[stix]

Slowly it's been coming togheter.Finally made up my mind on rear end and going the m3 route. I have mostly everything just waiting on diff. Sent headers out to get cut down and should have them back before saturday to mount turbos up and start to figure out downpipes. These next 2 weeks will be busy trying to finish it up this month.

[stix]

still trying to figure out what to do about the driveshaft. So far I have called the driveshaft shop and could have one made with the 6 bolt flange (kinda pricey) atleast more than I was expecting to pay for one. The other option would be to buy a 4 bolt flange for the diff but in the end comes out to be about the same for either option. I am now looking at the stock m3 driveshaft but don't know if that will bolt up the same in the sedan or if I would be able to source a u joint up front for the 4l80.

[ssburns]

still trying to figure out what to do about the driveshaft. So far I have called the driveshaft shop and could have one made with the 6 bolt flange (kinda pricey) atleast more than I was expecting to pay for one. The other option would be to buy a 4 bolt flange for the diff but in the end comes out to be about the same for either option. I am now looking at the stock m3 driveshaft but don't know if that will bolt up the same in the sedan or if I would be able to source a u joint up front for the 4l80.

An e30 yoke will work and gets you to a 4-bolt pretty cheaply.

[stix]

An e30 yoke will work and gets you to a 4-bolt pretty cheaply.

Will it work with the 210mm diff ?

[unnatrl]

Will it work with the 210mm diff ?

I can lend a bit of experience with this. There are 4 bolt flanges available for the 210mm, but it has to come from another 210mm. The E30 188 flange will not work on a 210. I bought one from Waganstyle (BFC and eBay username). The Jags That Run (JTR) flange bolts up to the 210mm 4 bolt flange without issue. You are limited on u-joint size (1310 if I recall correctly) on the JTR flange.

You also mentioned something about the 4l80. Can you clarify that question? Do you need the 4l80 slip yoke? Are you trying to reuse the stock driveshaft by cutting the factory guibo off and welding in an aftermarket weld yoke?

[ssburns]

I can lend a bit of experience with this. There are 4 bolt flanges available for the 210mm, but it has to come from another 210mm. The E30 188 flange will not work on a 210. I bought one from Waganstyle (BFC and eBay username). The Jags That Run (JTR) flange bolts up to the 210mm 4 bolt flange without issue. You are limited on u-joint size (1310 if I recall correctly) on the JTR flange.

You also mentioned something about the 4l80. Can you clarify that question? Do you need the 4l80 slip yoke? Are you trying to reuse the stock driveshaft by cutting the factory guibo off and welding in an aftermarket weld yoke?

What he said.. I bought a 4 bolt flange for a 210mm diff from the same source. I believe that it was originally off of an E32. I used www.driveshaftspecialist.com for my 1-pice shaft. They sourced and used the JTR flange.

[stix]

I can lend a bit of experience with this. There are 4 bolt flanges available for the 210mm, but it has to come from another 210mm. The E30 188 flange will not work on a 210. I bought one from Waganstyle (BFC and eBay username). The Jags That Run (JTR) flange bolts up to the 210mm 4 bolt flange without issue. You are limited on u-joint size (1310 if I recall correctly) on the JTR flange.

You also mentioned something about the 4l80. Can you clarify that question? Do you need the 4l80 slip yoke? Are you trying to reuse the stock driveshaft by cutting the factory guibo off and welding in an aftermarket weld yoke?

I talked to waganstyle, I have been trying to source the 4 bolt flange but he did not have one and I have not been able to find one. He told me that I could find one at the dealerships but mentioned they are around 400, comparing it to the custom 6 bolt driveshaft from dss it comes out to be about the same cost for less trouble it seems.


I went thru your thread and saw you accomplished what my question was. That is welding on a 4l80e slip yoke on the bmw drive shaft but don't know if the e46 m3 drive shaft is the same diameter as the one on a e39 ? And I'm unsure the difference in mounting points between a sedan and the coupe if there is any. I know you questioned how well the bmw driveshaft will perform in a high hp application.

[unnatrl]

I talked to waganstyle, I have been trying to source the 4 bolt flange but he did not have one and I have not been able to find one. He told me that I could find one at the dealerships but mentioned they are around 400, comparing it to the custom 6 bolt driveshaft from dss it comes out to be about the same cost for less trouble it seems. I went thru your thread and saw you accomplished what my question was. That is welding on a 4l80e slip yoke on the bmw drive shaft but don't know if the e46 m3 drive shaft is the same diameter as the one on a e39 ? And I'm unsure the difference in mounting points between a sedan and the coupe if there is any. I know you questioned how well the bmw driveshaft will perform in a high hp application.

I have questioned the HP capability of the BMW part. Rao built a car that was no slouch and didn't seem to have any problems. It's worth a shot! I wouldn't feel comfortable with the original driveshaft if this was a drag car. You can't expect to hook 600+ hp on cheap 18" tires. Traction= broken parts. I'm also looking into the Davis traction control unit to help with this. It retards timing to limit engine power, overall there is less shock on the drivetrain.

You will have to cut the end of the driveshaft off to measure the inside diameter. Speculation won't help much here.

I can't offer any insight to the driveline length on the E46. For what it's worth, they are the same on the E36. I suspect the front half may be different based on what transmission it was intended to mate up to.

[stix]

Well turbos are mounted, will need to relocate abs pump. Everything is really really tight, radiator will need to be moved foward and down some. Headlights won't be sealed as planned originally .The awsome thing about e46 headlights is, I can seal the projector and have two different lens covers. One with a hole one without and swap them out when needed. One turbo is more foward then the other I forgot how the headers sit on the head. But at least I got the halos to turn on lol

[stix]

Forgot to mention, Ups lost or misplaced the m3 diff I bought. I am stuck waiting now to see what happens with that and how long it will take.

[SedanMan]

What's your plan for wiring? I'm also doing a 5.3/T56 swap in my '01 330i and I'm almost debating just running aftermarket gauges in the cluster......

[stix]

What's your plan for wiring? I'm also doing a 5.3/T56 swap in my '01 330i and I'm almost debating just running aftermarket gauges in the cluster......

I'm going to be running thaniel's set up, when I get to that point. He told me it would be easier to keep the bmw guages.

[Slo4x4]

nice man, you're making some major progress! I just have wiring left to do on mine. however I'm still running the OEM diff.

- - - Updated - - -

And either I'm getting confused or everyone in here is confused. you will have to buy a custom driveshaft no matter what diff you go with. once you change the motor and transmission the length and flanges all have to be remade. not to mention a great time to swap to a single axle instead of the two piece.

[stix]

nice man, you're making some major progress! I just have wiring left to do on mine. however I'm still running the OEM diff.

- - - Updated - - -

And either I'm getting confused or everyone in here is confused. you will have to buy a custom driveshaft no matter what diff you go with. once you change the motor and transmission the length and flanges all have to be remade. not to mention a great time to swap to a single axle instead of the two piece.

I was trying to source a complete m3 rear drop out, but never found one. I actually pieced one togheter after alot of research. I got diff carrier, diff (that ups still cannot locate) axles, sway bar, and 330i trailing arm assemblies locally. I would have bought m3 trailing arms but saved some money with the 330s. From what I've read the 330i guys are doing it that way and it works.


I know I will need a custom driveshaft made either way. I was just trying to find the best way to go about it. After weeks and weeks of searching I finally found somebody that makes a 6 bolt flange from m3 diff to a 1350 joint drive shaft and that's they way I think I will go.

[Sebasc300]

Awesome build, did you ever try to fit the CX racing headers while the 4l80e was installed? If not, do you think they will clear the 4l80e since it's a bit wider than the T56.

Also, did you ever address the oil pan/steering rack issue? if so, what did you end up doing to rectify the problem? thanks