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Thread: HWY vibration - running out of things to replace...

  1. #1
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    HWY vibration - running out of things to replace...

    I have owned this 01 Sport for about 3 years. When I bought the car, I knew it had a slight vibration 65+...it has been tolerable but I also hate it. My recent front end work ended any vibes in the steering wheel. I can feel it in the seat - empty passenger seat noticeably moves. I can feel it at about 45mph, it seems to go away and show back up at 65+. There seems to be a sweet spot when I accelerate smoothly it seems to dissipate slightly, but I can really feel it when coasting there after.

    Over the years I have steadily replaced worn out suspension pieces, each time thinking - that would be the cure. I am running to of things to replace and its irritating. I am hoping you guys might help me find something I have overlooked or have solved a similar problem.

    Over the course of ownership I have replaced:
    driveshaft & flex disc
    front center link, tie rods
    front traction struts
    front control arms
    rear control arms
    rear guide links
    integral links
    rear ball joints
    New tires

    So.....

    I can't think of anything but bent wheel or some bushing - subframe, etc. My new tires have been road force balanced more than once and I am told a bent wheel would show up - no one has ever said anything. Still could be bent - will have to investigate further, but still....

    When doing some research, I notice that subframe bushing replacement is common on E39's. but you rarely here of anyone doing this for E38's. My friend at the BMW dealer said they never remember doing this repair on E38's in the 11 years he has been there. Does this mean they never fail or that people just don't get them replaced. My car has 161K miles, has spend its entire life in TN, so i don't think it has seen any harsh wear like in Northern climates. The job to replace these is not a small or inexpensive undertaking. Is there a way to feel confident the bushings are either shot or good?

    Bad CV joints? they make no noise - and i would have to think the vibration would speed dependent - would increase with the speed of the car- doesn't appear too
    Rear end, ring & pinion? No noises


    I would love to hear your thoughts on what it might be or what else to check
    Thanks in advance...

  2. #2
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    I think it's simpler than you think. You are describing what, in my experience, is always true: vibrations above 65mph are almost always wheel/tire related.

    I also went on a wild goose chase, replacing suspension components, etc. You say you have new tires. This doesn't mean anything. In fact, I had a vibration problem begin AFTER replacing tires on my E31 (to the tune of about $800). For this reason, never skimp on new tires.

    If your steering wheel does not vibrate, then it's coming from the rear. I'd say: time for rear wheel straitening or new rear tires.

    Frankie
    Texas, USA
    frankies-bmw.com

  3. #3
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    Yeah, bent wheel for sure. Some shops don't care to tell you, they are told "put this tire on and balance it" and they put the tire on and balance it, as best as they can and say "there you go."

    Shouldn't cost much at all to get the wheel balance checked.

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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jamos View Post
    Yeah, bent wheel for sure. Some shops don't care to tell you, they are told "put this tire on and balance it" and they put the tire on and balance it, as best as they can and say "there you go."

    Shouldn't cost much at all to get the wheel balance checked.
    I have the same vibration and have done all the same steps as the OP, if not more. I have tried two different sets of rims with different tires (both Michelin's), replaced my axles, all front and rear bushings, control arms, tie rods, center link, steering box, brakes, front wheel bearings, struts and associated parts, springs, etc. The only things I haven't done are replaced the rear subframe bushings and rear diff mount bushings, rear wheel bearings, and the driveshaft CV joint. I even have a different diff than was installed originally and it has always had the same vibration. I have even had all four wheels on the balancing machine with no tire mounted and they were all straight and true. I'm planning on replacing the driveshaft CV joint, but my next step if that doesn't fix it is to replace the subframe bushings. After that, I am not really sure.

    -Paul
    2003 "M5" - Full M5 conversion, AMG C63S 6 piston front calipers, Porsche Panamera 4 piston rear calipers, GC Coilovers,
    Eibach ARBs, UUC Evo3/DSSR, Borla Exhaust w/Muffler Delete, BMW NBT with Carplay/Android Auto, Bi-Xenons, e38 Style 37 M-Pars, e60 Hubs 530i 6-speed swap build thread
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  5. #5
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    Yup, same issue here. I know it's coming from the left rear side. I do know it's not wheel related. I'm now on a different set of rims and tires and still have the same vibration. It's almost harmonic.
    It only vibrates at certain speeds and if I accelerate or slow down the vibration will immediately stop. Even a touch on the accellerator, not enough to speed up, just a quick blip is enough to stop the vibration.
    Absolutely NOT wheel and tire realated.
    Last edited by kulgan; 11-11-2015 at 12:52 AM.
    95 740i 99 750i

  6. #6
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    I have this issue as well. Only I notice it, passengers don't feel it. OP does it almost feel like road surface, but it's coming from the car? That's what I'm getting and I've done everything you have except driveshaft and rear guide links. Also did engine/trans mounts, which were totally shot, and rear brakes. Front brakes coming soon as I think they are warped.

    I don't think I've helped you; mostly commiserating. I do recommend checking the engine/tranny mounts if you haven't done so. Easy to do and like I said, if they haven't been done they're probably shot.

    Maybe also take it to the tire place and tell them you're getting a vibration and would like to check for bent wheels. They may alter their approach and help you diagnose rather than just blindly balancing the wheels.
    2000 740i Sport | 2004 330xi | 1988 325i Vert | 2003 Z4 2.5 | 1995 Ford F150 | 2018 GTI

  7. #7
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    Thanks guys. I feel better ( I think) that I am not alone on this one. It would be nice to find a solution - as this appears to afflict a number of us.

    I spoke to my Indie Mech about this yesterday - he agreed with my Dealer friend. In 20 years, he has never replaced subframe bushings on an E38. He has a car with 300K miles on the originals. "they do not fail" he said. Why don't I take comfort in blanket statements like that? I have grown old and cynical i guess...but for the $1300 quote to replace them...I may have to live with it or find the time and tools to attempt myself.

    Just to add to the list: I have new brakes all the way around and new motor mounts.

    I even went to the trouble of finding a vibration absorber (33311092147), although I have been told they don't do anything and most cars don't have them.

    I am going to check more closely into the bent wheel scenario...is it possible the hub, spindle, etc has been hit/bent and it would give the impression of a bent wheel? How would one know? Would this show on when attempting an alignment? I just had a 4 wheel job done last week...nothing was mentioned. I am also going to do a wheel swap and see what its like.

    I suppose I could be being unrealistic...my mother had an E39 528 - that thing was smooth as glass on the hwy. Is it too much to expect that? My friend at the dealer has accused me of having an overly sensitive back side...I just have the belief that this things we built to be rock solid and vibration free for hours of 120+mph cruising, am I wrong?

    I will report back on what I find...if anyone has any other suggestions, I am all ears.

    thanks again for all the feedback!

  8. #8
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    I'll throw in my $0.02 on this one.

    I've done quite a bit of vibration diagnosis between my '85 Mustang and this E38. Two things I start with: if it is felt in the steering wheel, it is most likely in the front. If it is felt in the seat / chassis, it is most likely either in the rear wheels, rear suspension, or driveline related.

    I posted a while ago for another member who was trying to diagnose things. It was long; I wish I could find it. You have had your tires road-force balanced, which absolutely would have revealed a rim or tire problem by now, unless it was not done properly or done by a shop that doesn't care.

    It sounds to me like it is coming from the rear, which is either wheel, suspension, or driveline related.

    What I did with my Mustang to rule out rims and tires was to put the rear of the car on jack stands and drive the car in the air. The wheels themselves are balanced by weight, so in the air, you should not feel anything from the wheels. By taking the wheels off the ground, you are accounting for any excessive runout that could be causing the vibration driving down the road. NOW, big disclaimer here because I have never done this with the E38 -- I do not know what the computer system will do if it senses the front wheels stationary but the rear spinning. It may just set off the ABS light, which will go away when you take it for a drive

    If you can run that test, you will go a long way to helping narrow down your problem. If you feel no vibration, you have a rear tire/wheel runout problem. If you feel the vibration, have someone keep the car running at that speed and visually look at the different components for runout (i.e. drive shaft cv, differential, diff cv, wheels, etc). For example, if the balance is off on the wheels, you may see them flopping around while they spin. It will be hard to see the anything forward of the driveshaft CV with the exhaust and heat shielding in the way. If anything is moving, wobbling, or looks out of round, that's where you want to start.


    Without doing that, here's what I would check otherwise:

    Transmission mounts. These compressed about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch on my car, altering the driveline angle and creating a mild vibration. I noticed a difference in the seat when I replaced them. OP comments about acceleration vs deceleration would support something like this (or a driveshaft issue).

    Center support bearing. This item is bolted to the underside of the car. If it is bad, that's easy. But if it has been replaced, there is a specific preload that this bearing is supposed to have on the center of the driveshaft, otherwise you will experience vibrations. There is a TIS document on this.

    Rear CV. When this went on my gf's E39, there was a noticeable vibration in the seat. After replacement, the car is glassy smooth. It was such a difference, I want to replace this on my car now just to get rid of any little whatever I feel, but it is a PITA to replace. I'll wait until something else breaks or gets worse.

    Rear alignment. I imagine this must have been done at the time of rear suspension replacement. If it wasn't, it needs to be done. If it was, maybe try to get a print out of the specs to see what things look like.
    Last edited by racer2086; 11-11-2015 at 02:41 PM.
    '98 740il | 9/97 build | schwarz 2 | sandbeige | 5AT | 270k
    '04 330i ZHP sedan | Mystic blue | Alcantara | 6MT | 120k
    '00 540i sport | Titanium silver | Black | 5AT | 152k
    '85 Mustang GT convertible | Medium charcoal metallic | Gray | 5MT | 216k | one owner, all original

    mods: m-pars | Bilsteins & B&G springs | ValentineOne | StealthOne
    retrofits: full nav | MKIV | bluetooth TCU | BM53 w/ AUX input | video module w/ AV input & backup cam | oem sirius xm | xenon | shades | PDC | rain sensor | BMW DWS TPMS | lighted door handles | front seat heaters | heated steering wheel | euro rear fog lights | ski pass | folding mirrors


  9. #9
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    My E39 530i was smooth too, as was my '87 Audi 4000Q. Like butter. The E38 is also smooth, but just that bit on the highway that I am constantly wondering if it's road feel, or some weird vibration.

    Need to drive another E38 to be sure. I never have driven another one.
    2000 740i Sport | 2004 330xi | 1988 325i Vert | 2003 Z4 2.5 | 1995 Ford F150 | 2018 GTI

  10. #10
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    I had a vibration in my touring that I could not find. I finally realized that the torque had caused one of the rear subframe bushings to pull out (and crack) a tad. Once I replaced them, the vibration was gone. $1300 seems super high for subframe bushings. If the tool is the same as the E39, you can probably rent it from a forum member. It only takes about 2 hours to actually replace them.

    I would also look at the diff bushings, wheel bearings, engine and trans mounts. The last two are very easy to replace IMO.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by racer2086 View Post
    I'll throw in my $0.02 on this one.

    I've done quite a bit of vibration diagnosis between my '85 Mustang and this E38. Two things I start with: if it is felt in the steering wheel, it is most likely in the front. If it is felt in the seat / chassis, it is most likely either in the rear wheels, rear suspension, or driveline related.

    I posted a while ago for another member who was trying to diagnose things. It was long; I wish I could find it. You have had your tires road-force balanced, which absolutely would have revealed a rim or tire problem by now, unless it was not done properly or done by a shop that doesn't care.

    It sounds to me like it is coming from the rear, which is either wheel, suspension, or driveline related.

    What I did with my Mustang to rule out rims and tires was to put the rear of the car on jack stands and drive the car in the air. The wheels themselves are balanced by weight, so in the air, you should not feel anything from the wheels. By taking the wheels off the ground, you are accounting for any excessive runout that could be causing the vibration driving down the road. NOW, big disclaimer here because I have never done this with the E38 -- I do not know what the computer system will do if it senses the front wheels stationary but the rear spinning. It may just set off the ABS light, which will go away when you take it for a drive

    If you can run that test, you will go a long way to helping narrow down your problem. If you feel no vibration, you have a rear tire/wheel runout problem. If you feel the vibration, have someone keep the car running at that speed and visually look at the different components for runout (i.e. drive shaft cv, differential, diff cv, wheels, etc). For example, if the balance is off on the wheels, you may see them flopping around while they spin. It will be hard to see the anything forward of the driveshaft CV with the exhaust and heat shielding in the way. If anything is moving, wobbling, or looks out of round, that's where you want to start.


    Without doing that, here's what I would check otherwise:

    Transmission mounts. These compressed about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch on my car, altering the driveline angle and creating a mild vibration. I noticed a difference in the seat when I replaced them. OP comments about acceleration vs deceleration would support something like this (or a driveshaft issue).

    Center support bearing. This item is bolted to the underside of the car. If it is bad, that's easy. But if it has been replaced, there is a specific preload that this bearing is supposed to have on the center of the driveshaft, otherwise you will experience vibrations. There is a TIS document on this.

    Rear CV. When this went on my gf's E39, there was a noticeable vibration in the seat. After replacement, the car is glassy smooth. It was such a difference, I want to replace this on my car now just to get rid of any little whatever I feel, but it is a PITA to replace. I'll wait until something else breaks or gets worse.

    Rear alignment. I imagine this must have been done at the time of rear suspension replacement. If it wasn't, it needs to be done. If it was, maybe try to get a print out of the specs to see what things look like.
    I'm definitely thinking the problem is the rear CV joint on the driveshaft. I've done all things you've mentioned and your symptoms on your gf's E39 are basically what I'm having in my e38. I had already changed the rear section of my driveshaft, but it's possible the replacement had a good u-joint, but a bad CV joint. The CV joint is under $200, so I will probably go that route and hopefully put an end to all this. No point using a used CV joint when it can be replaced fairly easily compared to several other things.

    Quote Originally Posted by RVAE34 View Post
    I had a vibration in my touring that I could not find. I finally realized that the torque had caused one of the rear subframe bushings to pull out (and crack) a tad. Once I replaced them, the vibration was gone. $1300 seems super high for subframe bushings. If the tool is the same as the E39, you can probably rent it from a forum member. It only takes about 2 hours to actually replace them.

    I would also look at the diff bushings, wheel bearings, engine and trans mounts. The last two are very easy to replace IMO.
    Wheel bearings would be my next guess, but I find those highly unlikely to be the problem if they aren't making any noise, which mine aren't. If the front diff bushing hasn't been done, that's a good one to swap out to see if it helps, but usually when it's bad it causes a bad clunk back there, especially when switching from drive to reverse. The rear diff bushings to my knowledge, don't go bad often, much like the subframe bushings. I guess it's possible, but I have replaced my entire subframe with another one and replaced the front diff mount bushing and it didn't change, so I'm thinking those are unlikely.

    -Paul
    2003 "M5" - Full M5 conversion, AMG C63S 6 piston front calipers, Porsche Panamera 4 piston rear calipers, GC Coilovers,
    Eibach ARBs, UUC Evo3/DSSR, Borla Exhaust w/Muffler Delete, BMW NBT with Carplay/Android Auto, Bi-Xenons, e38 Style 37 M-Pars, e60 Hubs 530i 6-speed swap build thread
    2005 Range Rover 4.6is (M62TU Powered) - 4.6is Engine Swap from X5, BMW NBT with Carplay/Android Auto
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  12. #12
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    wish it was 1 of each
    what about the guibo guys. i hear other things being mentioned but has anyone replaced the guibo on their cars?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by inkacola View Post
    what about the guibo guys. i hear other things being mentioned but has anyone replaced the guibo on their cars?
    I think we all have replaced that already, which is why it hasn't been mentioned. I also have replaced and pre-loaded the CSB as well.

    -Paul
    2003 "M5" - Full M5 conversion, AMG C63S 6 piston front calipers, Porsche Panamera 4 piston rear calipers, GC Coilovers,
    Eibach ARBs, UUC Evo3/DSSR, Borla Exhaust w/Muffler Delete, BMW NBT with Carplay/Android Auto, Bi-Xenons, e38 Style 37 M-Pars, e60 Hubs 530i 6-speed swap build thread
    2005 Range Rover 4.6is (M62TU Powered) - 4.6is Engine Swap from X5, BMW NBT with Carplay/Android Auto
    2006 Porsche Cayman S - Soul Performance Competition Headers and Exhaust, H&R Coilovers, 718 Boxster Spyder wheels, Rennline 35mm rear spacers

  14. #14
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    I have this too haha. New tyres, rims balanced to zero, alignment was essentially perfect (all done by guys I know and trust). About 85k miles on the clock, vibration is seemingly harmonic, as in it rolls on and off like this __...---...__ Starts at 100kmh (60mph) and is generally there at almost any speed beyond that). Front brake pads and rotors I replaced myself last year, front end suspension is at this point mostly new (haven't done the sway bar end links but they look and feel good still).

    Really annoying. Hope we can find a cure. I feel the vibration in my seat ever so slightly, but mostly in my steering wheel.

  15. #15
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    Ok, important for everyone to note... If you have vibration that comes and goes, you have more than once source of your vibration.

    Depending on the frequency of the vibrations, the harmonic waves of the vibrations constructively and destructively collide causing that rolling on and off vibration you feel. You have at least two sources of vibration.

    My Mustang had 3 sources, and after replacing the harmonic damper on the engine, the drive shaft, and accurately balancing the tires, the car is very smooth -- and that's for a 208k mile 30 year old vehicle.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by blackknight530i View Post
    I'm definitely thinking the problem is the rear CV joint on the driveshaft. I've done all things you've mentioned and your symptoms on your gf's E39 are basically what I'm having in my e38. I had already changed the rear section of my driveshaft, but it's possible the replacement had a good u-joint, but a bad CV joint. The CV joint is under $200, so I will probably go that route and hopefully put an end to all this. No point using a used CV joint when it can be replaced fairly easily compared to several other things.
    It is very possible that is your problem. You replaced the rear half of the DS? Did you get it balanced as a unit? If the drive shaft was completely removed and not marked with the diff, sometimes unbolting the drive shaft and turning it 90 degrees to the diff flange can smooth it out.
    Last edited by racer2086; 11-12-2015 at 02:38 AM.
    '98 740il | 9/97 build | schwarz 2 | sandbeige | 5AT | 270k
    '04 330i ZHP sedan | Mystic blue | Alcantara | 6MT | 120k
    '00 540i sport | Titanium silver | Black | 5AT | 152k
    '85 Mustang GT convertible | Medium charcoal metallic | Gray | 5MT | 216k | one owner, all original

    mods: m-pars | Bilsteins & B&G springs | ValentineOne | StealthOne
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by TNe38s View Post
    I have owned this 01 Sport for about 3 years. When I bought the car, I knew it had a slight vibration 65+...it has been tolerable but I also hate it. My recent front end work ended any vibes in the steering wheel. I can feel it in the seat - empty passenger seat noticeably moves. I can feel it at about 45mph, it seems to go away and show back up at 65+. There seems to be a sweet spot when I accelerate smoothly it seems to dissipate slightly, but I can really feel it when coasting there after.

    Over the years I have steadily replaced worn out suspension pieces, each time thinking - that would be the cure. I am running to of things to replace and its irritating. I am hoping you guys might help me find something I have overlooked or have solved a similar problem.

    Over the course of ownership I have replaced:
    driveshaft & flex disc

    front center link, tie rods
    front traction struts
    front control arms
    rear control arms
    rear guide links
    integral links
    rear ball joints
    New tires

    So.....

    I can't think of anything but bent wheel or some bushing - subframe, etc. My new tires have been road force balanced more than once and I am told a bent wheel would show up - no one has ever said anything. Still could be bent - will have to investigate further, but still....

    When doing some research, I notice that subframe bushing replacement is common on E39's. but you rarely here of anyone doing this for E38's. My friend at the BMW dealer said they never remember doing this repair on E38's in the 11 years he has been there. Does this mean they never fail or that people just don't get them replaced. My car has 161K miles, has spend its entire life in TN, so i don't think it has seen any harsh wear like in Northern climates. The job to replace these is not a small or inexpensive undertaking. Is there a way to feel confident the bushings are either shot or good?

    Bad CV joints? they make no noise - and i would have to think the vibration would speed dependent - would increase with the speed of the car- doesn't appear too
    Rear end, ring & pinion? No noises


    I would love to hear your thoughts on what it might be or what else to check
    Thanks in advance...
    I don't think it's a driveshaft issue for the OP.
    2000 740i Sport | 2004 330xi | 1988 325i Vert | 2003 Z4 2.5 | 1995 Ford F150 | 2018 GTI

  17. #17
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    Whoops. Somehow missed that. Hopefully OP used a new CV. It should come with that I imagine...
    '98 740il | 9/97 build | schwarz 2 | sandbeige | 5AT | 270k
    '04 330i ZHP sedan | Mystic blue | Alcantara | 6MT | 120k
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  18. #18
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    I would think it would come with a new CV. I was actually liking your idea as it relates to my vibration and occasional *tink* when I put it in gear.
    2000 740i Sport | 2004 330xi | 1988 325i Vert | 2003 Z4 2.5 | 1995 Ford F150 | 2018 GTI

  19. #19
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    Tink is usually something with the driveshaft. Either play in the u-joint or CV I would imagine.
    '98 740il | 9/97 build | schwarz 2 | sandbeige | 5AT | 270k
    '04 330i ZHP sedan | Mystic blue | Alcantara | 6MT | 120k
    '00 540i sport | Titanium silver | Black | 5AT | 152k
    '85 Mustang GT convertible | Medium charcoal metallic | Gray | 5MT | 216k | one owner, all original

    mods: m-pars | Bilsteins & B&G springs | ValentineOne | StealthOne
    retrofits: full nav | MKIV | bluetooth TCU | BM53 w/ AUX input | video module w/ AV input & backup cam | oem sirius xm | xenon | shades | PDC | rain sensor | BMW DWS TPMS | lighted door handles | front seat heaters | heated steering wheel | euro rear fog lights | ski pass | folding mirrors


  20. #20
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    Well, I didn't read all posts, but if you solved the steering wheel vibration and still have something what shakes your seat, then
    rear wheels, if checked, then
    drive shaft, if replaced but you have to know that if you replaced it with remanufactured one then there is a chance that remanufacturer assembled the driveshaft wrongly (BMW driveshaft get balanced all together, so if you misalign frond part to the rear part, they will vibrate)
    then CV-Joint shafts, if it bent, it will vibrate. Can be bended during rear end works, by replacing the ball joint etc
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  21. #21
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Memphis, TN
    Posts
    167
    My Cars
    2001 740i Sport

    update - still no solutions...

    Went to have the tires re-balanced last week... told they were all pretty close. None more than an ounce off. They also told me my rims where straight and everything ran true...


    the hwy vibes are still there - no better. I have a friend with some spare wheels - we are going to do a wheel swap - just to be sure.


    I got under the car today to have a look around. I checked to make sure my driveshaft was installed correctly (about 6 months old) - flex disc is lined up correct - still looks in great shape. New trans mounts look good - everything seems to be tight, can't move it. Rear CV joint of driveshaft looks good. Do the rear control arm bushings go bad? - the look fine...but you can't tell by looking unless they are really bad I suppose.


    Jacked up the car, rears spin freely and quietly no noises at all. I am stumped...It does feel like it is a driveline or in the rear, I can feel it in the seat.


    I called Drive Shaft Specialist of Texas to talk to them-They seem to be some good people - they have offered to send me a another driveshaft since I have just about run out of options. They did offer this advice - check to see if it is Torque Converter related. Since hwy speed is when everything is "locked up" it could be a source of vibration and not affect the around town stuff. Do you guys have any thoughts of this? What are the symptoms of a TC problem? Car shifts fine and smooth. They said to get out on the hwy at a steady speed and just barely touch the brake pedal enough to make the brake lights come on and this should release the lock up on the converter. If the vibration goes away - might be a symptom of TC trouble. What say you?

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    9,266
    My Cars
    03 M5/05 RR/06 Cayman S
    Quote Originally Posted by TNe38s View Post
    Went to have the tires re-balanced last week... told they were all pretty close. None more than an ounce off. They also told me my rims where straight and everything ran true...


    the hwy vibes are still there - no better. I have a friend with some spare wheels - we are going to do a wheel swap - just to be sure.


    I got under the car today to have a look around. I checked to make sure my driveshaft was installed correctly (about 6 months old) - flex disc is lined up correct - still looks in great shape. New trans mounts look good - everything seems to be tight, can't move it. Rear CV joint of driveshaft looks good. Do the rear control arm bushings go bad? - the look fine...but you can't tell by looking unless they are really bad I suppose.


    Jacked up the car, rears spin freely and quietly no noises at all. I am stumped...It does feel like it is a driveline or in the rear, I can feel it in the seat.


    I called Drive Shaft Specialist of Texas to talk to them-They seem to be some good people - they have offered to send me a another driveshaft since I have just about run out of options. They did offer this advice - check to see if it is Torque Converter related. Since hwy speed is when everything is "locked up" it could be a source of vibration and not affect the around town stuff. Do you guys have any thoughts of this? What are the symptoms of a TC problem? Car shifts fine and smooth. They said to get out on the hwy at a steady speed and just barely touch the brake pedal enough to make the brake lights come on and this should release the lock up on the converter. If the vibration goes away - might be a symptom of TC trouble. What say you?
    The TC wouldn't be my problem as I have a manual.

    -Paul
    2003 "M5" - Full M5 conversion, AMG C63S 6 piston front calipers, Porsche Panamera 4 piston rear calipers, GC Coilovers,
    Eibach ARBs, UUC Evo3/DSSR, Borla Exhaust w/Muffler Delete, BMW NBT with Carplay/Android Auto, Bi-Xenons, e38 Style 37 M-Pars, e60 Hubs 530i 6-speed swap build thread
    2005 Range Rover 4.6is (M62TU Powered) - 4.6is Engine Swap from X5, BMW NBT with Carplay/Android Auto
    2006 Porsche Cayman S - Soul Performance Competition Headers and Exhaust, H&R Coilovers, 718 Boxster Spyder wheels, Rennline 35mm rear spacers

  23. #23
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Memphis, TN
    Posts
    167
    My Cars
    2001 740i Sport
    Quote Originally Posted by blackknight530i View Post
    The TC wouldn't be my problem as I have a manual.
    i wondered about you manual guys...just went for a quick blast down the hwy in sport mode - Vibes are the same...at least i don't have TC trouble! (knocks on wood)

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Thousand Oaks, CA
    Posts
    6,031
    My Cars
    2007 Alpina B7
    if u replaced all suspension parts but still have vibrations the answer is easy....uneven Tire Patches on the tires....It could be re balanced only on a HUNTERS Tire balancing machine...
    2000 740i Sport

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Chicago, Il / Denver, Co
    Posts
    6,412
    My Cars
    '01 DINAN7 '03 M5
    Or simply he have bigger center bore on his rims
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    Your current situation is not your final destination

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