The shark bit me

[benjaminfrankln]

With the e21 coilovers from ca tuned they are already welded to the knuckle I believe so it at least is a bolt in. The BC ones you have to weld on yourself.

[MortyCrock]

With the e21 coilovers from ca tuned they are already welded to the knuckle I believe so it at least is a bolt in. The BC ones you have to weld on yourself.

"WELDING Required/ If you want you can send us your E21 hubs and we can weld them in for you= $140 for this service. "

Per CATuned's website.

[pofo]

Well I have been going threw the car and found some issues that needs to be addressed before I start driving the car. The biggest issue is the bad in tank pump that I have already ordered. Then I can try and start the car after removing the bad gas. My hazard switch I think was also faulty because my parking lights are always on even with the key out of the ignition. I played with all the switches and found I was blowing the fuse for the hazard when I pressed it, I believe there is an internal short. I also noticed there is a leak that I have yet to find might be gasket for window, but looks as if there was a leak and rotted the floor out just in a small area on both passenger and drivers side. I have some sheet metal and plan on cutting it out this weekends and replacing the rot. I notice some rot staring on the rear window but none on the front window that is visible that would suggest rust. Maybe the gasket is just bad and leaking, where is the best place to get this from and the tool to install the trim? I also noticed the sunroof will tilt up but will not retract but this is not an issue as the snow is almost here.

[benjaminfrankln]

Not too bad! It will be fun once it's on the road! At least the interior looks great.

[ButteDorFrank]

i'm beginning to think that neither one of you guys know what you're talking about.....

you can not overcome a stiff spring by adjusting rebound and compression, furthermore you can not adjust spring compression with a dampener!

you can not adjust preload with a dampener, that can only be done by adjusting the spring!

preload has little to do with suspension effectiveness, it's used to adjust static sag. however, too much or not enough static sag does effect the suspension's workable travel.

a 3 way adjustable shock allows you to change low speed compression, high speed compression and rebound and that is all!

and I think you don't understand what I am saying ... cause your statement just states the exact same thing I just said in other words .... you're the idiot

[pofo]

Got to love the internet


But I have looked threw a lot more threads on the CAtuned coils and might reconsider to go this route. I am hoping there will be a black Friday sale of some sort

[Tom D]

frank, i didn't understand what you said because what you meant and what you said are not the same thing.

you can slow down the dynamic action of a spring's compression by adding more dampening, but you can not alter the spring's compression or its travel with a dampener, that is the job done with preload and preload occurs when you statically pre-load the spring.

.... you're the idiot......

that's okay, i forgive you.

[Tom D]

1) I don't see what is the advantage of having it 3 way adjustable

2) (3way) except to preload your spring to make it stiffer and travel less ...

3) I've always just seen it with the one threaded sleeve ...

I'll try and help you to understand. motorcycle guys tend to understand suspension springs, preload and dampening better then car guys because it effects them more so you'll find more info at cycle related websites.

1) there is no advantage of a 3 way for his intended use, this is just sold for the bragging rights and is something reserved for serious racing applications. even then the adjustments are for track specific tuning, on the street its of no use and i really doubt the OP's friends have any idea of what they're doing. he'd be best off with a single adjustable shock at most and even then if the shocks are not dyno tuned as a pair then they are worthless.

2) im not so sure you understand what preload is. preload is the amount of compression you place on the spring statically. the preloading does not included the weight of the vehicle, never changes the spring's rating (stiffness) nor does it change the spring's travel and it is never done with the shock.

what preloading does is to allow the tuner to adjust the spring for the amount of static load placed on it. the static load is the amount of vehicle weight that the spring is carrying at rest. the purpose of adjusting for static load is to place the shock's piston in its optimal position to allow for maximum travel of both compression and rebound.

i'll try giving an example. you have a 200 pound per inch spring, a shock with 3 inches of total travel and a vehicle that places 300 lbs. on each spring.

given the above you assemble the strut with 0" of preload and adjust the spring perches so that it holds the shock at maximum extension, you then lower the vehicle onto its wheels. because the spring will collapse 1" for every 200 lbs of load and the load is 300 lbs the spring will compress 1.5" now because the shock has a total travel amount of 3" and you started with the piston at the top of it's travel, it will be 1.5" lower and at the middle of it's stroke. this is the optimum position because it allows the shock both 1.5" of compression as well as 1.5" of rebound before the shock 'bottoms' out on either the top or the bottom of its stroke.

then lets say you remove your M10 and replace it with a 6.5l cast iron V8 that weighs 300 lbs more. doing so will place 150lbs more load on each of the front springs for a total of 450lbs per spring. when you place the vehicle back on it's wheels the spring will compress 2.25" and the shock will have a reduced total travel of 0.75" of compression and an increase total travel of 2.25" of rebound along with the increased possibility of 'bottoming' out.

this is where the beauty of 'preload' comes into play. keeping the spring's upper perch so it holds the shock at maximum extension you then preload 0.75" of compression into the spring. now when you lower the car onto it's wheels the spring will support 150lbs before it starts to compress and the amount that it does compress is only 1.5" . the shock has a total travel of 3" so it's piston is once again 1.5" down, in the middle of it's total stroke and in it's optimum tuning position.

3) in the OP's picture below you can see that there are 2 adjustment nuts. the bottom one is for adjusting the balance (ride height) of the vehicle and the top one is for adjusting the spring preload. in my picture you'll notice that i only have one adjustor nut and that i can only adjust for balance (ride height). i did this deliberately, choosing instead to pick the right springs to carry the fixed amount of the front end load and since i don't ever plan on giving my friends a ride under the hood of my car the weight on the front end will never change and preloading will never be necessary.

Attachment 554468

.....Got to love the internet....

that's alright, i'll forgive you too! but a word of advice, forget all that hocus pocus, it's not going to give you anything but bragging rights, eye candy and i guarantee that you and an army of your friends will never get it dialed in correctly!

[ButteDorFrank]

frank, i didn't understand what you said because what you meant and what you said are not the same thing.

you can slow down the dynamic action of a spring's compression by adding more dampening, but you can not alter the spring's compression or its travel with a dampener, that is the job done with preload and preload occurs when you statically pre-load the spring.



that's okay, i forgive you.

well maybe I should of spent an hour writing a long paragraph similar to what you wrote to exactly explain what I meant, but I was assuming that people already knew all that and would understand (I am also coming from the motorcycle world, you didn't teach me anything in that whole paragraph, just a refresher) ... but thanks for elaborating on the subject ... what you explained is basically what I was saying about the spring, I wasn't talking about damping, but it's ok, very good write up lots of good useful information.

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Well I have been going threw the car and found some issues that needs to be addressed before I start driving the car. The biggest issue is the bad in tank pump that I have already ordered. Then I can try and start the car after removing the bad gas. My hazard switch I think was also faulty because my parking lights are always on even with the key out of the ignition. I played with all the switches and found I was blowing the fuse for the hazard when I pressed it, I believe there is an internal short. I also noticed there is a leak that I have yet to find might be gasket for window, but looks as if there was a leak and rotted the floor out just in a small area on both passenger and drivers side. I have some sheet metal and plan on cutting it out this weekends and replacing the rot. I notice some rot staring on the rear window but none on the front window that is visible that would suggest rust. Maybe the gasket is just bad and leaking, where is the best place to get this from and the tool to install the trim? I also noticed the sunroof will tilt up but will not retract but this is not an issue as the snow is almost here.

the hazard switch is a common problem and there's some info in the FAQ I think to fix this ... I just stuck a screw driver in it and it works for now until I have time to change it

[pofo]

the hazard switch is a common problem and there's some info in the FAQ I think to fix this ... I just stuck a screw driver in it and it works for now until I have time to change it

Well I ordered it and should be in next week along with a new intank pump. I also found out the ECSTuning also supplies the stamped replacement parts. They have the euro tire well and the rear panel and i assume they can get anything else I need. This is a plus because they are a US company and I will not have to pay for international shipping rates. I will starting ordering these part after Christmas. Suspension is first because it is blown and it needs much more low

[Imolarot2]

You guys are way overthinking the suspension... until you have enough power to justify coilovers I don't really see the point



Not tuned: currently 115whp @5900 (fuel cutoff with the Volvo computer); planning to be at 160whp@7000 when I'm tuned. At that point I might finally deal with coilovers. Brakes seem to be an issue already, while my suspension still works fine

[Tom D]

.... until you have enough power to justify coilovers I don't really see the point.....

there are two points, balance and a great selection of spring rates. it's about chassis tuning and has nothing to do with power, but I get your point. what the OP intends to do is way more then he can ever use.

[pofo]

Got a bit of work done

I painted the valve cover, rain tray, air box, and front grills. I also had time to do a bumper tuck, was a bit messy but only took 30 mins and looks so much cleaner, but still wont be happy till I have euro bumpers.






No I have these two connectors that are unplugged and zip tied back, I have no clue what they go to? anyone have an idea?

[Imolarot2]

there are two points, balance and a great selection of spring rates. it's about chassis tuning and has nothing to do with power, but I get your point. what the OP intends to do is way more then he can ever use.

Agreed, but your car is not stock. I assume you swapped engines before installing your coilovers?

[Tom D]

you assume correctly.

there isn't much need for coilovers with a stock M10, I did have an alpina suspension package though.

[Imolarot2]

Yeah. My car is currently on Koni/ST springs so I like the ride quality. I know I'll eventually have to go to coilover, but I don't want to until I have to

Edit: I used to have the BBS progressive springs and Bilsteins, but I prefer the current setup

[pofo]

Coilover are for looks at this point, but I will be swapping a m50 into the car once I get the body back in shape. The suspension in the car is blown and its time for an upgrade along with some bushings. And I think we're over thinking the subject this is a street car it will maybe go to the track 2 or 3 time a year. Though I have a tendency to go over board with my cars.

[Tom D]

pofo, personally I would stay away from a six pot, but if you have to have a M50 then look for one out of a Z3

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I'm also on koni's and like them a whole lot more then the billies I ran for years.

[DavidD123]

pofo, personally I would stay away from a six pot, but if you have to have a M50 then look for one out of a Z3

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I'm also on koni's and like them a whole lot more then the billies I ran for years.

I agree! There's a pretty decent weight difference between the iron and aluminum block M50/52's. An aluminum m52 is roughly 20lbs lighter than an m20.

[OLD MAN]

JP you do not need more power to make use of a better suspension, you just have to learn not to use the brakes so much.....LOL

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The silver car is basically a shock power M10 other then exhaust, intake and coil, still only has / oops had 89 hp at the wheels.

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pofo Weclome to the group - looking forward to up dates of you new toy and the VW is pretty cool too.

[pofo]

pofo, personally I would stay away from a six pot, but if you have to have a M50 then look for one out of a Z3

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I'm also on koni's and like them a whole lot more then the billies I ran for years.

I just dont like the sound of a n/a 4 and I would like a reliable 250hp and with the m50/52 i have the power I want out of the box. I dont know the engine's for bmw that well yet still learning, but I have a 2.0t tsi from a vw tiguan that is sitting in my garage that need to be swapped into something.

[Imolarot2]

JP you do not need more power to make use of a better suspension, you just have to learn not to use the brakes so much.....LOL

Agreed, but I follow the vague Enzo Ferrari logic:

"Aerodynamics are for those who don't know how to build engines"

I'll deal with my suspension when it can't handle what I'm throwing at it. I'm dealing with brakes now because they already needed to be upgraded.

I just dont like the sound of a n/a 4 and I would like a reliable 250hp and with the m50/52 i have the power I want out of the box. I dont know the engine's for bmw that well yet still learning, but I have a 2.0t tsi from a vw tiguan that is sitting in my garage that need to be swapped into something.

I would swap a diesel in before a gas powered VW engine, but honestly you haven't heard a proper M10 if you're issue is you don't like the way they sound.



184.7 whp @ 7300rpm - we need to play with the carbs some more so it builds power to 10k rpm

[pofo]

I want something newer that is more reliable sorta the idea behind the restomod. I've had to do a lot of trouble shooting with my jetta with the built motor and turbo set up and just want something stock and maybe cam's. But this is not for a while I still need to get the body back in shape. I am waiting for the sales on Black Friday and if I can get some coilovers that will be awesome if not I am going to start ordering the replacement parts for the rear end.

Now with the front end i'm am at a toss up, I like the motorsport front end but I also like the duckbill lip that some run but cant find what its called.

I like the motorsport bumpers but I can only find them on ebay made in plastic. I am sure they dont fit well for $500 does anyone have any experience with them?



But I also really enjoy the simplicity of this font lip.

[Tom D]

i think that blue car borderlines on tasteless!

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.....dont like the sound of a n/a 4 ....would like a reliable 250hp ....with the m50/52 i have the power .....

ah grasshopper, you have lots to learn!

first of all i can tell you're young and are more concern with impressing your friends then putting together a fun car to drive. i know this because you talk about engine sound, slamming, 250hp, six cylinder swaps, 3way adjustable shocks, motosport dams and next it'll be 17x10' wheels with 195 tires.

these cars are momentum machines and are not meant for laying down rubber across the parking lot. also looking cool while parked in front of the high school gets old after a while, 250hp is too much power for an E21, and 195's on 10" is stupid!

instead save some money and buy a set of billie sport shocks and some H&R springs, do a quick refresh/reseal on the engine, rebuild the brake system, get the hardest compound tires you can find in 185, join the bmwcca and sign up for some high performance driver's education. you'll have a ball and learn things that will probably save your life someday. you'll also start looking at your ex-friends sitting outside the burger king with their rockers in the weeds and shake your head at them, partially because you'll realize how foolish they are and partly because you know how much fun they're missing out on!

[pofo]

i think that blue car borderlines on tasteless!

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ah grasshopper, you have lots to learn!

first of all i can tell you're young and are more concern with impressing your friends then putting together a fun car to drive. i know this because you talk about engine sound, slamming, 250hp, six cylinder swaps, 3way adjustable shocks, motosport dams and next it'll be 17x10' wheels with 195 tires.

these cars are momentum machines and are not meant for laying down rubber across the parking lot. also looking cool while parked in front of the high school gets old after a while, 250hp is too much power for an E21, and 195's on 10" is stupid!

instead save some money and buy a set of billie sport shocks and some H&R springs, do a quick refresh/reseal on the engine, rebuild the brake system, get the hardest compound tires you can find in 185, join the bmwcca and sign up for some high performance driver's education. you'll have a ball and learn things that will probably save your life someday. you'll also start looking at your ex-friends sitting outside the burger king with their rockers in the weeds and shake your head at them, partially because you'll realize how foolish they are and partly because you know how much fun they're missing out on!

Thanks for the advice but I've been around the block once or twice I'm 30. I only have one friend that is into stanced cars and the others have drift cars. I still have the jetta and it is faster than I will ever need it to be and will blow the tires off threw the gears and it's on the ground - So I have all that covered all ready, I like having nice thing for myself and I dont go to car shows so it is not to impress anyone but myself (I cant stand the car show clicks). I understand the concept of motion cars but as said I live really far from Lime rock witch it's just under 4hrs away. This car is for the street, I may go to the track maybe a handful of times and this does not justify setting a car up strictly for the track. So having something with more power to get up to speed is much more enjoyable to me.

But things may have just changed, while searching the internet I found a m90 motor that is not to far from me. It's been stored away for 4 years with harness and ecu and some extra goodies. The guy is asking $300 for the motor and I dont want to pass it up. I did a quick search and they seam to be more rev happy and make very good low end power. Has anyone had any experience with this motor? It may throw off the weight balance of the car but the upside is going sideways will be more fun.

BTW I was planning on going to O'Neil Rally school in the spring as something fun to do and more experience. Though I did take an aggressive driving courses in the past when I was younger with my dad.