I have a set of fronts and rears for sale for 200 shipped any where in USA. Brand new. Ended up going with firmer shocks
Sent you a PM would like to purchase your set. Thanks!
1991 BMW 850i
2007 Honda Odyssey
2017 Hyundai Elantra
2013 Honda CRV
2003 MotoGuzzi 850 Jackal
I'm popping back in this thread in regards to the gland nuts. I had not had any luck in finding a suitable replacement at the right size unfortunately. I'm glad to see that these are still popular. If anyone has any questions please feel free to email me at gareth1@fcpeuro.com.
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So if your original gland nut has seen better days and needed to be cut off like mine your somewhat out of luck with these? I just saw this thread since I'm right in the middle of replacing my front shocks with Bilstein inserts that come with the gland nut. Would really like to know what the ride difference is between the Bilstein and TRW inserts considering the Bilstein are more than double the price.
All I know is that I have had Bilsteins on my Volvo since 2005 - about 100,000 miles and they still feel the same as they did when I put them in. About three years now with the revalved set in the 840. Would I stick with an original low pressure shock going forward? Probably not.
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My bargain priced TRW's arrived today as well. I have Bilstein Sports in the Panzer but couldn't pass up the amazing price on the TRW's . They will sit on a shelf until someone locally needs a set. 8-)
91 850 (Panzer), 2012 Mini Cooper Countryman (WifeMobile) www.wuffer.ca
Yeah, thats part of the problem. Im not sure why the original design of these inserts did not include a new gland nut. I think these were originally manufsctuted by Gabriel but when TRW took over they became TRW's product. I'm awaiting on some specs for the factory installed E31 gland nut. I believe since the Bilstein inserts have a thicker piston shaft Bilstein had to supply a replacement as the stock nut would not clearance the shaft.
Lifetime Replacement Guarantee, Free Shipping on $49+, and Hassle-Free Returns.
FCP Euro - OEM & Genuine European Auto Parts Online
Lifetime Replacement Guarantee, Free Shipping on $49+, and Hassle-Free Returns.
FCP Euro - OEM & Genuine European Auto Parts Online
Lifetime Replacement Guarantee, Free Shipping on $49+, and Hassle-Free Returns.
FCP Euro - OEM & Genuine European Auto Parts Online
Yeah if your original gland nut has to be cut off you will need to buy oem replacement at $75 ea.
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You people are obviously daring me to walk into the shop and make some.
Won't happen, not taking the bait.
Unless, of course, they go factory NLA.
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Quite a few people I have talked to in the UK had a pair made by a local machine shop. About 40$
I used a large red pipe wrench to remove the gland nut. As long as the threads are still good, it will use just the right amount of grip to turn it loose. Forget about the large alligator grips because they will keep slipping and hurt your hands.
Last edited by e31bev; 06-04-2016 at 01:24 AM.
Soak it in PB Blaster prior to trying anything.
What "thumbs up" really means
I am getting ready to install the TRW inserts. Well, my mechanic is, sorry!
I see several of you have already installed the TRW's, some with the original salvaged gland nut, some with the E34 OEM nut.
According to Dragon850 the fit was right (Dragon850 can you confirm?) with the E34 nut. No modification needed?
FCPEuro: "These inserts come with a spacer that works with thefactory glandnut". Same with the expensive E34 nut?
I read all the threads about E31 inserts, including the wonderful write-up by Wokke and Hyper on the Koni's. There is some mention of adding oil to the strut to help dissipate heat build up.
Has anybody added/considered adding oil to the TRW's? Is it necessary, recommended by TRW? FCPGroton, can you chime in on this?
Thanks you guys
Jorge
Last edited by Jorge Mazlumian; 09-25-2016 at 01:09 PM.
Jorge Mazlumian
Southern California
1996 328iA
E34 gland nut torqued to 100ft/lb. Clean threads first with wire brush and use blue thread lock. No oil use mentioned in TRW docs.
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Last edited by Dr. T; 09-25-2016 at 01:05 PM.
Thanks for the tips, Dr.T
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That is very reassuring. Of course I'd rather save the $150 and try to reuse the old nuts. And the bump stops.
And heavy oil should be fine, then.
Thanks Dragon850.
Can't wait to have the car back on the ground and drive it.
Will try to swap rotors and pads before the SoCal meet in October.
Jorge Mazlumian
Southern California
1996 328iA
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