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Thread: TRW Strut Inserts for the E31 Available from FCP Euro

  1. #76
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    Got em today.. they are made in France.

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    Last edited by BMSman; 05-26-2016 at 11:52 PM.

  2. #77
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    I have a set of fronts and rears for sale for 200 shipped any where in USA. Brand new. Ended up going with firmer shocks

  3. #78
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    Sent you a PM would like to purchase your set. Thanks!
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  4. #79
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    I'm popping back in this thread in regards to the gland nuts. I had not had any luck in finding a suitable replacement at the right size unfortunately. I'm glad to see that these are still popular. If anyone has any questions please feel free to email me at gareth1@fcpeuro.com.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by BMSman View Post
    Got em today.. they are made in France.

    Thank you FCP for a great deal!
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    Lifetime Replacement Guarantee, Free Shipping on $49+, and Hassle-Free Returns.
    FCP Euro - OEM & Genuine European Auto Parts Online


  5. #80
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    So if your original gland nut has seen better days and needed to be cut off like mine your somewhat out of luck with these? I just saw this thread since I'm right in the middle of replacing my front shocks with Bilstein inserts that come with the gland nut. Would really like to know what the ride difference is between the Bilstein and TRW inserts considering the Bilstein are more than double the price.

  6. #81
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    All I know is that I have had Bilsteins on my Volvo since 2005 - about 100,000 miles and they still feel the same as they did when I put them in. About three years now with the revalved set in the 840. Would I stick with an original low pressure shock going forward? Probably not.
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  7. #82
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    My bargain priced TRW's arrived today as well. I have Bilstein Sports in the Panzer but couldn't pass up the amazing price on the TRW's . They will sit on a shelf until someone locally needs a set. 8-)
    91 850 (Panzer), 2012 Mini Cooper Countryman (WifeMobile) www.wuffer.ca


  8. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by toomann View Post
    So if your original gland nut has seen better days and needed to be cut off like mine your somewhat out of luck with these? I just saw this thread since I'm right in the middle of replacing my front shocks with Bilstein inserts that come with the gland nut. Would really like to know what the ride difference is between the Bilstein and TRW inserts considering the Bilstein are more than double the price.
    Yeah, thats part of the problem. Im not sure why the original design of these inserts did not include a new gland nut. I think these were originally manufsctuted by Gabriel but when TRW took over they became TRW's product. I'm awaiting on some specs for the factory installed E31 gland nut. I believe since the Bilstein inserts have a thicker piston shaft Bilstein had to supply a replacement as the stock nut would not clearance the shaft.
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  9. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by toomanyparts View Post
    All I know is that I have had Bilsteins on my Volvo since 2005 - about 100,000 miles and they still feel the same as they did when I put them in. About three years now with the revalved set in the 840. Would I stick with an original low pressure shock going forward? Probably not.
    The yellow body Bilsteins are definitely very durable.
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  10. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wuffer View Post
    My bargain priced TRW's arrived today as well. I have Bilstein Sports in the Panzer but couldn't pass up the amazing price on the TRW's . They will sit on a shelf until someone locally needs a set. 8-)
    I'm sure you'll have no problem selling them when the time comes!
    Lifetime Replacement Guarantee, Free Shipping on $49+, and Hassle-Free Returns.
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  11. #86
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    Yeah if your original gland nut has to be cut off you will need to buy oem replacement at $75 ea.

  12. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by dragon850 View Post
    Yeah if your original gland nut has to be cut off you will need to buy oem replacement at $75 ea.
    That is what I am still trying to find a solution to. I basically came at a dead end but am hopeful this time around I will come up with a solution.
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  13. #88
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    You people are obviously daring me to walk into the shop and make some.
    Won't happen, not taking the bait.
    Unless, of course, they go factory NLA.

  14. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hyper View Post
    You people are obviously daring me to walk into the shop and make some.
    Won't happen, not taking the bait.
    Unless, of course, they go factory NLA.
    Haha. What if we asked really nicely?
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  15. #90
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    I have a feeling you already took the bait

    Quote Originally Posted by Hyper View Post
    You people are obviously daring me to walk into the shop and make some.
    Won't happen, not taking the bait.
    Unless, of course, they go factory NLA.

  16. #91
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    Quite a few people I have talked to in the UK had a pair made by a local machine shop. About 40$

  17. #92
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    I used a large red pipe wrench to remove the gland nut. As long as the threads are still good, it will use just the right amount of grip to turn it loose. Forget about the large alligator grips because they will keep slipping and hurt your hands.
    Last edited by e31bev; 06-04-2016 at 01:24 AM.

  18. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by e31bev View Post
    I used a large red pipe wrench to remove the gland nut. As long as the threads are still good, it will use just the right amount of grip to turn it loose. Forget about the large alligator grips because they will keep slipping and hurt your hands.
    I tried a large red pipe wrench on mine also. Apparently 20yrs of Ohio weather was more harsh than in California (go figure). Pipe wrench had no effect. Resorted to the cutoff wheel

  19. #94
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    Soak it in PB Blaster prior to trying anything.
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  20. #95
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    jcs1966 is offline SoCal Eights - CA BMW CCA Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by toomanyparts View Post
    Soak it in PB Blaster prior to trying anything.
    I've used a flat punch and a hammer for the two sets I've installed in the past. Works great and doesn't jack up the threads
    Jeremy Smith
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  21. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by toomanyparts View Post
    Soak it in PB Blaster prior to trying anything.
    Tried soaking as well. Sometimes the only thing left is the cutoff wheel. Was successful in my case and a lot faster. You of course need to be careful. The original gland nuts wall thickness is fairly thin.
    Last edited by toomann; 06-06-2016 at 10:22 AM.

  22. #97
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    I am getting ready to install the TRW inserts. Well, my mechanic is, sorry!
    I see several of you have already installed the TRW's, some with the original salvaged gland nut, some with the E34 OEM nut.
    According to Dragon850 the fit was right (Dragon850 can you confirm?) with the E34 nut. No modification needed?
    FCPEuro: "These inserts come with a spacer that works with thefactory glandnut". Same with the expensive E34 nut?

    I read all the threads about E31 inserts, including the wonderful write-up by Wokke and Hyper on the Koni's. There is some mention of adding oil to the strut to help dissipate heat build up.
    Has anybody added/considered adding oil to the TRW's? Is it necessary, recommended by TRW? FCPGroton, can you chime in on this?
    Thanks you guys
    Jorge
    Last edited by Jorge Mazlumian; 09-25-2016 at 01:09 PM.
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  23. #98
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    TRW Strut Inserts for the E31 Available from FCP Euro

    E34 gland nut torqued to 100ft/lb. Clean threads first with wire brush and use blue thread lock. No oil use mentioned in TRW docs.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Dr. T; 09-25-2016 at 01:05 PM.

  24. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jorge Mazlumian View Post
    I am getting ready to install the TRW inserts. Well, my mechanic is, sorry!
    I see several of you have already installed the TRW's, some with the original salvaged gland nut, some with the E34 OEM nut.
    According to Dragon850 the fit was right (Dragon850 can you confirm?) with the E34 nut. No modification needed?
    FCPEuro: "These inserts come with a spacer that works with thefactory glandnut". Same with the expensive E34 nut?

    I read all the threads about E31 inserts, including the wonderful write-up by Wokke and Hyper on the Koni's. There is some mention of adding oil to the strut to help dissipate heat build up.
    Has anybody added/considered adding oil to the TRW's? Is it necessary, recommended by TRW? FCPGroton, can you chime in on this?
    Thanks you guys
    Jorge
    Yes the fit fine using E34 gland nuts.
    Try to reuse your old gland nuts to save some $$$
    I added heavy weight oil to the strut every time.
    Don't forget the bump stops.

  25. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr. T View Post
    E34 gland nut torqued to 100ft/lb. Clean threads first with wire brush and use blue thread lock. No oil use mentioned in TRW docs.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Thanks for the tips, Dr.T

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by dragon850 View Post
    Yes the fit fine using E34 gland nuts.
    Try to reuse your old gland nuts to save some $$$
    I added heavy weight oil to the strut every time.
    Don't forget the bump stops.
    That is very reassuring. Of course I'd rather save the $150 and try to reuse the old nuts. And the bump stops.
    And heavy oil should be fine, then.
    Thanks Dragon850.
    Can't wait to have the car back on the ground and drive it.
    Will try to swap rotors and pads before the SoCal meet in October.
    Jorge Mazlumian
    Southern California

    1996 328iA

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