clutch pedal squeaking...what bushing do i need? Part#?

[Vintage42]

... Also the pad that your foot pushes was not centered on the pedal shaft. This ended up causing me problems with placing the bolt holes for the pedal covers I put on... ... .

The pad on my Mason is centered. I assume the old rubber cover should just transfer to the pad of the new pedal. Sounds like you drilled the pad for a chrome aftermarket pedal cover.

[raubritter]

Yeah, aftermarket pedal covers (stainless steel AKG with rubber inserts for grip):



The misplaced pad made one hole really difficult to place, but it all turned out well (except I broke one of the bolts and had to find a not-quite-exact replacement). And yes, normally the rubber cover transfers over from the stock pedal to the Mason.

[Vintage42]

... hats off to you for getting that metal plate back in there at all........ I gave up trying to put it back in after the first time I removed it.

Pedal access is much easier after removing some material from that plate.

[raubritter]

Cool... maybe after I get my brake overhaul finished (have replaced pads and rotors and flushed fluid, just need to adjust parking brake now) and other stuff maybe I'll try to get the metal plate to fit again.

So did you get your mason pedal installed? Did you have any issues with the bushings?

[Vintage42]

Good luck with the whole Indy thing--you're a braver man than I.

... So did you get your mason pedal installed? Did you have any issues with the bushings?

The Mason pedal was neatly made with no weld blobs to interfere with the flanges of the bronze bushings, and the bushings fitted perfectly in the bore. I removed the dash panels and plate to reduce the time and risk for the Indy shop. I gave the writer the UUC DIY instructions, but he said the mechanic could ask for them if needed.

It took about 1-1/2 hours while I waited because the mechanic had a problem. The writer said the mechanic broke the plunger on yellow clutch switch, and had to bend a tab on the new pedal to make the new switch work. I am not sure in what order those events happened, maybe he broke the switch trying to make it work with the the tab. It looks like the flat welded tab has been bent to contact the switch sooner. The two switch tabs must be the most critical and difficult part of welding up the Mason clutch pedal.

I was glad the shop had the switch in stock or the car would not start. The mechanic also buggered the spring clip on the bushing mount, and had a new one in stock. It is a major BMW indy that had most of my M44 cooling system in stock when they did that job.

I had a question about why and where they used the UUC bushing shim washers that I had provided just in case. I hoped they were not on the bronze bushings. The mechanic was called to the desk and said he put the shims on the Mason mounting bolt where they seemed needed.

The split plastic bushings in the old pedal were dry with little residue of grease. The grease must have been smeared, not packed.

I got to put about ten miles of city driving on the new pedal. The next day there were a few flurries of snow so the roads got heavily salted. I won't drive again until the salt dust clears, could be a week. The Mason pedal is not dramatically different, but does improve the feel. The long faint quavering squeak is gone, but there is some sound perhaps from the master cylinder as reported in other posts. Between the slave bleeding and the new pedal, engagement feels good; the gear lever goes into 1st gear with some gentle resistance, instead of a hard push followed by an instant nasty pop. I didn't used to like city driving with all the dead stops, and now I will do it just to enjoy shifting the gear box.

[Mr Bingley]

The Mason pedal was neatly made with no weld blobs to interfere with the flanges of the bronze bushings, and the bushings fitted perfectly in the bore. I removed the dash panels and plate to reduce the time and risk for the Indy shop. I gave the writer the UUC DIY instructions, but he said the mechanic could ask for them if needed.

It took about 1-1/2 hours while I waited because the mechanic had a problem. The writer said the mechanic broke the plunger on yellow clutch switch, and had to bend a tab on the new pedal to make the new switch work. I am not sure in what order those events happened, maybe he broke the switch trying to make it work with the the tab. It looks like the flat welded tab has been bent to contact the switch sooner. The two switch tabs must be the most critical and difficult part of welding up the Mason clutch pedal.

I was glad the shop had the switch in stock or the car would not start. The mechanic also buggered the spring clip on the bushing mount, and had a new one in stock. It is a major BMW indy that had most of my M44 cooling system in stock when they did that job.

I had a question about why and where they used the UUC bushing shim washers that I had provided just in case. I hoped they were not on the bronze bushings. The mechanic was called to the desk and said he put the shims on the Mason mounting bolt where they seemed needed.

The split plastic bushings in the old pedal were dry with little residue of grease. The grease must have been smeared, not packed.

I got to put about ten miles of city driving on the new pedal. The next day there were a few flurries of snow so the roads got heavily salted. I won't drive again until the salt dust clears, could be a week. The Mason pedal is not dramatically different, but does improve the feel. The long faint quavering squeak is gone, but there is some sound perhaps from the master cylinder as reported in other posts. Between the slave bleeding and the new pedal, engagement feels good; the gear lever goes into 1st gear with some gentle resistance, instead of a hard push followed by an instant nasty pop. I didn't used to like city driving with all the dead stops, and now I will do it just to enjoy shifting the gear box.

Like I said, you're a braver man than I. I so can't let other people work on my cars (with the sole exception of Randy Forbes who is an artist). Reading your post made me cringe and flush. Broke the switch?!? Bent the tab !?! Put the shims on the mounting bolt??? Buggered the spring clip!!! I would have been passed out on the floor.

[Vintage42]

Had no choice. Could not reach or see up under the dash myself except with a camera at arms length. Tried a year ago and took pictures before giving up. http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-Pedal-Bushing
The mechanic was a wiry little guy who could get under there.
The clutch switch tab on the pedal did not depress the switch far enough to let the engine start; I don't know what else I would have done but bend the tab.
The UUC bushing shims are paper thin and add little to the washers provided with the Mason bolt; I guess the mechanic figured they had to go somewhere.
Breaking switches is not unusual; some of the DIYs say a bad brake switch has to be broken to be removed. I guess the mechanic did not realize that switches could be left on their bracket, which is unbolted.

Edit: I don't even think the clutch switch has to be moved to replace the pedal. I think the mechanic broke the plunger trying to pull it out further to contact the tab on the Mason pedal. Then perhaps he realized the tab needed to be bent.

[raubritter]

The way all the switches, brackets, pins, clips fit together is like a 3D puzzle... I took a lot of time just figuring out what to remove in what order, and doing it slowly and carefully. Unfortunately a shop probably has to be in more of a hurry. But doesn't sound like any real harm was done.

I don't blame you for not doing this-- I had to do this work with my head in the footwell, laying down on my back, with my back contorted sideways over the door sill. Very uncomfortable to say the least.

Anyway I'm glad it all worked out!

Reply to your edit: In my case, I had to remove the switches (or more correctly, the bracket that holds the switches). The first time while still figuring it out, I removed the switches, but then immediately afterward had to remove the metal bracket that holds them. So the next time I just removed the whole bracket with the switches still in it.

[Vintage42]

T... The first time while still figuring it out, I removed the switches, but then immediately afterward had to remove the metal bracket that holds them. So the next time I just removed the whole bracket with the switches still in it.

If one does not read the DIYs, it looks like the switches must be removed individually. Especially since it is not evident that they are mounted on a removable bracket, because the bracket's bolt's nut is hidden behind some of that "3D puzzle". My mechanic may have removed the switches individually.

[MORRIE]

Sorry for hijacking your thread, but I did this in 2015 and it was a PITA for me. If I had removed the drivers seat, it would have given me more room making this project much easier. Like I said in my original thread...I would never want to do this again. The squeak is gone but I still have one underneath the car....guessing it's the clutch....been there since 2010...learned to live with it for now anyway.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...lutch+bushings

[Vintage42]

Not my thread, and you are right on topic. In 2015 I removed the seat and the panels. But I could not access or see what I was doing under there, and became afraid of getting the car immobilized in the garage. It would take many people to get it out and up to the street where it could be towed to an indy shop to finish the job. So I just took some big photos and gave up. Until this month.

[raubritter]

Definitely a pain, but also definitely worth the trouble... I really like how the pedals feel and operate now. Not sure what BMW was trying to accomplish with those floppy split plastic bushings that make so little contact with the pedal.

I would say I'm glad I'll never have to mess with this again, but the unfortunate fact is that the pedals probably have to come out to replace those spring grommets, so that will have to be done again at some point in the future. That would probably be a good candidate for a delrin (or some other stiff durable plastic material) replacement... All it really needs to do is keep the metal spring end from scratching against the metal of the pedals and mounting bracket. Maybe a 2-piece snap-in type of thing like eyelets for tarps...

[i.tamdinh]

Hi everyone, I just picked up my M coupe this pass weekend and have been reading a lot in this forum. Based on the PPI, I need to replace the busing for my clutch with the parts number on the picture. I’ve never swapped bushings on a clutch before so want to make sure I’m buying the right parts. Ireland and Rogue seems like good choices right now. But what about the other two parts that’s recommend in the report? Thanks







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[Vintage42]

Those parts are for the accelerator pedal.

I didn't see any of those parts on the diagram at:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=35_0254

I did look up 016 as the PN for a bushing on the accelerator rod:
https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/35411119016/
Shown on diagram at:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=35_0152
And the other two parts are there, too.

[i.tamdinh]

Those parts are for the accelerator pedal.

I didn't see any of those parts on the diagram at:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=35_0254

I did look up 016 as the PN for a bushing on the accelerator rod:
https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/35411119016/
Shown on diagram at:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=35_0152
And the other two parts are there, too.

Good call out! I was confused when I looked up the parts as well because it kept on showing accelerator and I wasn’t sure if the parts are interchangeable. My clutch bushing is definitely worn out. So I would just need to purchase the IE or RE to swap it out right? Nothing else?


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[Vintage42]

The OE bushings are clear Delrin plastic, concave outside as if to hold grease, and slit diagonally as if to allow grease in the concave outside to migrate to the inside. The design allows a bit of play and does not hold the pedal as rigidly and the solid bushings.
The UUC bushings are white Delrin, straight and solid.
The Rogue Engrg bushings are black Delrin, straight and solid.
The Ireland Engrg bushings are Oilite - solid porous sintered bronze impregnated with oil.
New OE bushings came with my Mason steel pedal, and I ordered UUC and Ireland bushings as well. The Ireland Oilite bushings fitted well, so I had the shop use them.
The various bushings are shown here:
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...h-Pedal-Review
I also got the new spring and grommets mentioned in this post:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...8#post29115588

[Vintage42]

Good luck with the whole Indy thing--you're a braver man than I.

The Indy messed up. First the tech broke the clutch switch removing the old pedal. Then he drew a new one from inventory for which the shop charged me. Then he said the ear on the Mason pedal needed to be bent to let the new switch allow the car to start. That was December before the car went into hibernation. I took a trip today and tried the cruise control, which did not work. So the forum came to my aid:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30005521

[BimmerBreaker]

Why are people clearancing that metal plate? It comes off in like 3 minutes with a few 10mm bolts

I swear some of ya'll would clearance your gas filler door if it didn't have a little protrustion to pull it out with

The Indy messed up. First the tech broke the clutch switch removing the old pedal. Then he drew a new one from inventory for which the shop charged me. Then he said the ear on the Mason pedal needed to be bent to let the new switch allow the car to start. That was December before the car went into hibernation. I took a trip today and tried the cruise control, which did not work. So the forum came to my aid:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30005521

So they messed up, charged you for their mess up, then mangled your brand new part, all while breaking a feature of your car and you bring it back to them?

I'm with Ralph on this one...

[Vintage42]

... So they messed up, charged you for their mess up, then mangled your brand new part, all while breaking a feature of your car and you bring it back to them? I'm with Ralph on this one...

They only broke my old clutch switch. The new switch is fine in allowing the car to start, but I suspect its mounting needs a little adjustment to make the CC work. Like, all I have to do is pull on the clutch pedal with my toe once to make it come out a 1/4 inch to make the CC work. And the CC works until I depress the pedal again. If I depress the pedal to downshift, the CC won't work unless the pedal is pulled on again.

So why don't I do this easy adjustment myself? I am 75, 6-1 and 210, stiff as a board, and my tri-focals don't fit upside down ;-)

Mike Johns Import (MJI) shop is the best Indy in the area, is unique in working only on BMWs, and I used them for cooling system and slip ring replacement before the clutch pedal replacement. And the tech told me that the Mason pedal's clutch switch ear did need adjusting to allow starting, so my Mason pedal was not plug and play. He just didn't check his ear adjustment vs full switch travel needed by the CC.

I disagree that I am better off paying a new general import shop to make this adjustment which MJI will correct for free.

[Vintage42]

Better yet, I found I could do it. I taped on some reading glasses to look upward through them, went under the dash, and took a look at adjusting the clutch pedal switch.
Used a very large screwdriver to push on and bend the mounting bracket a bit.
I could see where the tech that installed the Mason pedal had to bend the left ear to engage the starter switch. The right ear also needed bending to make the cruise control work, but it was easier for me to bend the switch bracket.

Mason clutch pedal.jpg

[rf900rkw]

As I said in your parallel thread, the switches are adjustable. No need to bend anything . If you can pull the pedal back, it most likely means your rocket scientist of a technician, the same guy that jammed the adjuster all the way in on the new switch then bent the pedal to match, left the return spring off.

[rf900rkw]

Now that I am on a computer and can see the picture rather than the helpful [attachment] you get on mobile...

The return spring is there, though we can't see if the top is correct. The spring should hold the pedal topped out, if you can pull it back, something is wrong with the installation.

The start switch does indeed have the adjuster bottomed out. This style switch is not unique to the Z3, he should have known how to set it up.

The cruise switch bracket looks bent, still. I suspect he bent it out of the way rather than unbolting it. Bend it over some, not just forward, so the switch is closer and square to the center of the pad.

[Vintage42]

... The cruise switch bracket looks bent, still. I suspect he bent it out of the way rather than unbolting it. Bend it over some, not just forward, so the switch is closer and square to the center of the pad.

I ended up using a very large screwdriver, placed the tip on the bracket showing beside the switch, pushed the clutch pedal down out of the way, and pushed on the screwdriver.
I could not see that I had visibly bent the bracket, but I must have bent it by 1/8-1/4 inch = the tiny play or movement of the pedal when I would pull it out with my toe. Because the cruise control now works properly.