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Thread: clutch pedal squeaking...what bushing do i need? Part#?

  1. #1
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    clutch pedal squeaking...what bushing do i need? Part#?

    The ceaking/squeaking noise is driving me crazy. Anybody know the part number?

  2. #2
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  5. #5
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    Where has this thread been all my life... I can finally fix the squeak!

  6. #6
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    Mine also squeaks the moment I put my foot on the clutch. Is this what everyone is experiencing?

  7. #7
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    I just wrote about this very service: http://coupenut.blogspot.com/2015/10...g-service.html
    Jon Maddux

    16 F15 X5d | 08 E90 M3 | 06 M Coupe | 01 M coupe | 99 M coupe
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  8. #8
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    Whatever you do, go with the Bronze ones!!! Do not get the Delrin or other Poly material ones...the potential to have the squeaking problem reoccur still exists with the poly versions. Get the oil-impregnated metal ones...you'll never hear another peep.

    I have no affiliation with any manufacturers, but I also went with the Ireland Engineering 'Oilite Bronze' bushings: https://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/Z3-...Zcltchbsh.html

    ...don't bother with the delrin brake pedal bushings though, they're a royal pain to install without removing the entire pedal assembly, and they made the brake pedal stick (too tight for the return spring to return). I may install a set of the bronze ones on the brake pedal in the future, if necessary.

    "You don't win silver....you lose gold."

  9. #9
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    Another vote for the IE bushings. Replaced a year and a half ago with no sounds or pedal play since.

  10. #10
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    I too like the oilite bronze bushings. I source through fellow coupe owner Ed McKernan, bimmerbum.com


    /.randy

  11. #11
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    I don't know how it works for me, but when the squeak returns to my clutch pedal (once every 5 years or so) I use WD40 and it fixes the squeak - granted new bushings would stop the extra play.. Also should note that it is not easy, usually involving multiple attempts/applications..

    “Great wisdom is generous; petty wisdom is contentious.” 无为

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by danomite View Post
    Whatever you do, go with the Bronze ones!!! Do not get the Delrin or other Poly material ones...the potential to have the squeaking problem reoccur still exists with the poly versions. Get the oil-impregnated metal ones...you'll never hear another peep.

    I have no affiliation with any manufacturers, but I also went with the Ireland Engineering 'Oilite Bronze' bushings: https://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/Z3-...Zcltchbsh.html

    ...don't bother with the delrin brake pedal bushings though, they're a royal pain to install without removing the entire pedal assembly, and they made the brake pedal stick (too tight for the return spring to return). I may install a set of the bronze ones on the brake pedal in the future, if necessary.
    I went with the UUC delrin and applied an ample amount of lubricant (teflon based) about two years ago and it's been silent ever since. However, if I had to do it all over again, I'd probably go the IE route since it essentially self lubricates and is maintenance free.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by rf900rkw View Post
    I too like the oilite bronze bushings. I source through fellow coupe owner Ed McKernan, bimmerbum.com
    +1for oiled bronze, Ed and bimmerbumco

  14. #14
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    Bought a pair from Ed's eBay store. Thanks for the suggestions.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by rf900rkw View Post
    I too like the oilite bronze bushings...
    Am getting ready to have this done, in a new Mason steel pedal. The bushings are an easy fit in the hole.
    I ca't find any discussion of lubing oilite on assembly, but plan to dab the hole and the bushings with gear oil.
    BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405

  16. #16
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    I also used the AKG oilite bronze bushings on both clutch and brake pedals (same bushings work for both). I coated them with lithium grease just because it seemed like a good idea. Clutch and brake pedal feel are awesome now- direct, solid, squeak-free. The 'weak' point in the system now is the aluminum bracket that the pedals mount to, since it flexes a tiny bit.

    I also did Mason clutch pedal at the same time-- I had to file down the area on the Mason pedal a bit where the flanges of the bronze bushings touch the pedal because otherwise the recess for the retaining clip on the pin was hidden by the extra material of the bronze bushings.

    Another source of noise is the little rubber grommets that line the holes where the return springs connect fall apart and you get a skritchy spring noise. Definitely order replacement grommets before you start this project (my originals were all falling apart). I had trouble finding them, ended up ordering from Pelican (added about a week to this project).

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by raubritter View Post
    ... oilite bronze bushings... coated them with lithium grease... Another source of noise is the little rubber grommets that line the holes where the return springs connect... order replacement grommets before you start...
    I thought oil would go better with what's in the oilite.
    I got the spring grommets -- 35 31 1 113 725.
    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/35311113725/
    BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405

  18. #18
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    A similar grease was on there from the factory so I just copied them (plus I don't really ever want to take it apart again to re-lube, so a long-lasting grease seemed like a good idea). Probably not necessary with the oilite, but why not help the bushings out?

    A mistake I made the first time was I filed the pedal only enough to where I could barely jam the clip onto the pin... But I realized afterward that this immobilized the bushings, so that the pedal rotated around the bushings rather than the pedal and bushings rotating around the pin as they are supposed to. So I took it back apart, filed a bit more, and reassembled making sure things could rotate freely.

    Personally I found that the other grommet 35-41-1-113-728 worked better for the Mason pedal. The 728 grommet is narrower and sturdier (thicker walled), and it seems to me that a too-wide, thinner-walled grommet would be more likely to get torn up by the spring ends. If I remember right, the only place the 725 grommet was needed was the car attachment point for the brake return spring (and of course the clutch pedal if you were staying with the stock pedal). 728 fit better for the other points and I think they will last longer. If you can get them locally or easily, I'd maybe pick up a couple and use whichever type is best when you get it apart.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by raubritter View Post
    ... I had to file down the area on the Mason pedal a bit where the flanges of the bronze bushings touch the pedal because otherwise the recess for the retaining clip on the pin was hidden by the extra material of the bronze bushings...
    Quote Originally Posted by raubritter View Post
    ... A mistake I made the first time was I filed the pedal only enough to where I could barely jam the clip onto the pin... But I realized afterward that this immobilized the bushings, so that the pedal rotated around the bushings rather than the pedal and bushings rotating around the pin as they are supposed to. So I took it back apart, filed a bit more, and reassembled making sure things could rotate freely...
    Is this problem all because the flange of the bronze bushing is thicker than the flanges on the OE and UUC plastic bushings?
    You would think the problem would also occur when the bronze bushing is used in the original plastic clutch pedal. But I see no mention of other people filing on either the OE plastic pedal or the Mason steel pedal to fit the bronze bushing.
    It is worrisome because I am paying an Indy to install the Mason pedal and bronze bushings, and I won't know if things get screwed up.
    In a shop, I can't hang over him, and I can't pay for re-doing things.
    The safest thing might be to use thin-flange plastic bushings in the Mason pedal, either the OE split bushings provided, or the UUC solid bushings that I also have.
    Last edited by Vintage42; 12-03-2017 at 08:19 PM.
    BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405

  20. #20
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    A tip on accessing the pedals:

    The edge of the metal plate comes so close to the console that the upper panel is hard to remove and replace, tending to break its screw tabs. I noticed that last year when I gave up doing the pedal bushing myself. Today when I removed all those panels for access to the pedal, I marked material to be removed from the metal crash plate for clearance. And when I got it out, I found one screw tab has cracked from all the activity.

    I used a bench grinder on the edge of the metal plate to give as much clearance to the console as possible, which should allow the upper panel to slip in without stressing its screw tabs. I ended up taking off more than shown, to make a good gap for inserting the dash panel screw tabs without stressing them. Originally the plate almost touched the console, which had to be pushed and bent to insert the dash panel tabs. I increased the gap by about 3/8".

    And I ordered a Plastex kit to repair the cracked screw tab.


    Z3 dash plate.JPG
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Vintage42; 12-10-2017 at 10:07 AM.
    BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405

  21. #21
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    Good luck with the whole Indy thing--you're a braver man than I.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vintage42 View Post
    Is this problem all because the flange of the bronze bushing is thicker than the flanges on the OE and UUC plastic bushings?
    You would think the problem would also occur when the bronze bushing is used in the original plastic clutch pedal. But I see no mention of other people filing on either the OE plastic pedal or the Mason steel pedal to fit the bronze bushing.
    It is worrisome because I am paying an Indy to install the Mason pedal and bronze bushings, and I won't know if things get screwed up.
    In a shop, I can't hang over him, and I can't pay for re-doing things.
    The safest thing might be to use thin-flange plastic bushings in the Mason pedal, either the OE split bushings provided, or the UUC solid bushings that I also have.
    It's possibly both-- the extra flange thickness and the thickness of the Mason pedal... I didn't try installing the stock pedal with the bronze bushings, but I haven't heard of anyone having trouble with that combo either. I think it could be that the stock pedal fits very loosely, so there's still room for the bronze flanges even with the extra thickness (which wouldn't be surprising, considering how sloppy the stock pedal+bushings feels).

    I mostly filed paint off the Mason pedal, then a small amount of metal. Nothing crazy. If I could see what was happening and get this done, I would think any sort of shop could realize what was happening and do it. I guess if I were in your position I might take a look at the surface on the Mason pedal that the flanges will touch--- is it flat and smooth? Mine wasn't. It had a lot of paint blobs and the metal was uneven. So go ahead and file it so that it's at least a smooth flat surface. Then explain about the issue when you drop it off (and they'll see the area you filed and get the idea). In a way they can't do it wrong because it just can't be reassembled if the recess for the clip is covered on the pin. Something has to be reduced.

    Only if they do what I did the first time, and file only enough to get a too-tight fit so the bushings can't rotate. Even then, not sure it really matters which part is rotating. My Mason pedal was really roughly filed in the bore hole for the pin, so I was afraid it would chew up the bronze bushings if it was rotating over them. That was the main reason I went through the fun of taking it all back apart to get the bushings to be able to rotate on the pin.

    I wouldn't let this stop you from using the bronze bushings- they seem to be the best option. DEFINITELY don't use the horrible split OE plastic bushings......... They are the biggest cause of the floppy un-solid clutch pedal feel.

    PS- hats off to you for getting that metal plate back in there at all........ I gave up trying to put it back in after the first time I removed it.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Bingley View Post
    Good luck with the whole Indy thing--you're a braver man than I.
    75 yrs, 200 lbs, bad joints and tri-focals. Can barely kneel and bend to get the panels off, and then everything is fuzzy looking upward.
    BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by raubritter View Post
    ... take a look at the surface on the Mason pedal that the flanges will touch--- is it flat and smooth? Mine wasn't. It had a lot of paint blobs and the metal was uneven.. PS- hats off to you for getting that metal plate back in there at all........ I gave up trying to put it back in after the first time I removed it.
    My Mason pedal is from the 2016 second group buy and looks perfectly made. No welding blobs to interfere with the bushing flange.

    I've had that steel crash plate out, in, and out again. Going back in after the pedal job should be a breeze after the grinding I did (photo added to post #20).
    Last edited by Vintage42; 12-04-2017 at 09:11 AM.
    BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405

  25. #25
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    Yeah, maybe mine was made on a friday Also the pad that your foot pushes was not centered on the pedal shaft. This ended up causing me problems with placing the bolt holes for the pedal covers I put on... I got mine in early 2017.

    For what it's worth, I measured the thickness of my stock plastic pedal: 39mm.

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