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Thread: E36 M3 Porsche 996 front caliper conversion

  1. #51
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    Yea, the cost of the bigger rotors is why I'll likely shave 12mm and go with standard E46 M3 rotors. Haven't committed either way yet. I wish I knew if the bigger rotors would last a full season of HPDE...they probably would with a cooling duct kit.

    Also, I haven't done the math on what the larger rotors do to the brake bias.
    Last edited by aeronaut; 11-23-2015 at 11:36 AM.

  2. #52
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    They'll definitely shift it forwards, probably back close to stock bias.

    I ran brembo e36 size for 2 years and never had issues, I'd expect the CSL rotors to last 2-3 years for me, but so will E46 rotors. Tig welding on some 12mm spacers is an easy mod to do if you want to do CSL rotors.

  3. #53
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    I get maybe 4-6 HPDE days out of stock E36 rotor before they have deep enough surface cracks that I start getting worried. Are the CSL rotors that much better? I'd expect them to last a bit longer due to additional mass, but I'm concerned they'll only last 8 days or so.

    Back to the topic of bias, yea, 325mm (E46M3) vs 345mm (CSL) means about 6% bias moved towards the front.

  4. #54
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    I don't the expect the CSL rotors to be made from a soft material, most likely something a bit harder than your run of the mill rotors. Also from their increased size, they may last a big longer from the increased thermal capacity.

    I've read mixed reviews, about how the E36 can benefit from a bit more rear bite. So I'm most likely going to pass on the CSL rotors and see how the standard E46 rotors fair. Also, I like the savings of $300!
    Last edited by Inflame; 11-23-2015 at 11:21 PM.

  5. #55
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    ^This is my reasoning also.

  6. #56
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    It's pretty widely reported from e46 M3 guys that the CSL rotors aren't actually that good, lots of complaints over the years about them.

    I just got some 325mm e46 M3 rotors, I should have my setup installed this winter but I won't be testing it until april or may.

  7. #57
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    Ah really, that's good to hear :P just solidifies my decision to stay standard size haha

  8. #58
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    NECRO BUMP!

    I'm looking into inexpensive options for replacing my floating calipers so this mod interests me.

    Does anyone know if the pad sweep area for the 996 calipers is the same on both rotors?

    E46 M3 non-ZCP/CSL 325mm vs ZCP/CSL 345mm rotors

  9. #59
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    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by golgo13 View Post
    NECRO BUMP!

    I'm looking into inexpensive options for replacing my floating calipers so this mod interests me.

    Does anyone know if the pad sweep area for the 996 calipers is the same on both rotors?

    E46 M3 non-ZCP/CSL 325mm vs ZCP/CSL 345mm rotors
    Using the same caliper and pad on either rotor (which is the option with this setup depending if you have the rotor machined or not), yes, sweep area is the same.
    Last edited by aeronaut; 11-01-2017 at 03:07 PM.

  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by aeronaut View Post
    - - - Updated - - -



    Using the same caliper and pad on either rotor (which is the option with this setup depending if you have the rotor machined or not), yes, sweep area is the same.

    Although area is same, I think you would get more torque from the 345mm bigger rotor setup since that swept area is further out from the hub center than the 325mm

  11. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by aeronaut View Post
    Using the same caliper and pad on either rotor (which is the option with this setup depending if you have the rotor machined or not), yes, sweep area is the same.
    Thank you for the quick reply! So then the advantage of the CSL is lighter and more rotor material to help dissipate heat?

    Quote Originally Posted by das borgen View Post
    Although area is same, I think you would get more torque from the 345mm bigger rotor setup since that swept area is further out from the hub center than the 325mm
    Ah, that also makes sense. Thank you.
    Last edited by golgo13; 11-01-2017 at 03:21 PM.

  12. #62
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    Not lighter (likely heavier). But as Das Borgen says, longer radius hence more torque. Therefore it'll have slightly more front brake bias than the same setup with the non CSL rotor.

  13. #63
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  14. #64
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    It's lighter much lighter actually....The ECS rotors have an aluminum hat. They are true floating rotors I'd recommend them I run them. (In my avatar) They are drilled but I'm sure that really doesn't matter as I've tried cooking them and breaking them lol. I'd also highly recommend a bias controller too even though they do technically give you more front, from experience it's still not quite enough if you go with the 4 wheel 996 calipers. If your keeping stock e36 rears I have no input on that.
    Last edited by Mklock; 11-01-2017 at 06:00 PM.

  15. #65
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    Of course you can buy aftermarket 2 piece rotors that are lighter, but you can get those in non CSL size also. Bottom line, stock E46 M3 CSL rotors are heavier than stock E46 M3 non-CSL rotors.

  16. #66
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    At this time I'm looking at keeping costs down and not shifting brake bias too far forward. To me, that seems like non-CSL OEM E46M rotors (heavy) up front with 996 clappers and OEM E36M rear calipers/rotors.

  17. #67
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    True enough I'd not recommend the stock CSL rotors as theirs plenty of bad reviews on them. The ECS ones are not to much more expensive. Plus they give you a discount when you need new ones.

  18. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mklock View Post
    True enough I'd not recommend the stock CSL rotors as theirs plenty of bad reviews on them. The ECS ones are not to much more expensive. Plus they give you a discount when you need new ones.
    A set of the 325mm rotors are like $100 shipped? The ECS 325mm rotors are $500:

    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part...00505ecs01akt/

    Just trying to keep costs down at the moment. If I had the cash I would spring for a Massive Lee/Wilwood set-up.

  19. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by golgo13 View Post
    At this time I'm looking at keeping costs down and not shifting brake bias too far forward. To me, that seems like non-CSL OEM E46M rotors (heavy) up front with 996 clappers and OEM E36M rear calipers/rotors.
    FYI, do the math (and research). The 996 calipers on front with oem rears will move brake bias slightly more rear.

  20. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by aeronaut View Post
    FYI, do the math (and research). The 996 calipers on front with oem rears will move brake bias slightly more rear.
    I'll look again, in my hasty research I thought I had read that the calipers would move it forward.

    Am I correct in my thinking that this means these calipers are actually a step down in bite and torque from the OEM calipers?

    - - - Updated - - -

    I see, at some point I had gotten 6% to the rear backwards in my mind.

    Thank you for helping me clear that up, aeronaut.

  21. #71
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    Sure thing! And yea, I kinda wish I'd spent the extra for a 4 wheel Wilwood setup. But overall I'm happy with the 996 calipers.

  22. #72
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    Yeah sorry thought you were talking OE csl rotors vs ecs csl rotors. I went with the 4 wheel 996 it works great but needs a bias controller which is not a big deal.

  23. #73
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    How ridiculous is it to run just the 996 on the front?

    What bias controller are you using?

  24. #74
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    Not bad for just the fronts, it's when you throw the 996 rears on it gets crazy. (Runs e46 m3 rear size rotor.)

    http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/63022...kaAt8EEALw_wcB

    Something similar to this pretty much, be warned it's not bolt on but not very complicated either. After you get that working it's all personal preference, go in a parking lot and mash the breaks, if your back tires don't pass your fronts your golden lol. Seriously though set it up correctly or you'll have a dangerous car. This is for all 4 wheels I'm not 100% sure on just fronts, seems a lot of people have had great success.

    You also can throw a set of less grippy pads in the back or more grippe on the front.
    Last edited by Mklock; 11-01-2017 at 09:42 PM.

  25. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mklock View Post
    You also can throw a set of less grippy pads in the back or more grippe on the front.
    This is what a lot of the track folks do to tweak brake bias. Usually it's a really aggressive race pad in the front and a less aggressive race pad or even a performance street pad in the back (to get the bias more forward), but there's tons of options. It can make a big difference in a track setting at those speeds.
    1999 M3/2/5 - Titanium Silver - Track/Weekend Toy


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