Dash display - e36 328 Track Car

[BruceT328]

Hi all,

Apologies if this is a duplicate thread. I have searched already but possibly i am using the wrong search words.

I would like to fit a Racetechnologies dash2 to my E36 328i full time Track/race car. I need to work out the following:

- Where can I pick up on water temp
- Where if anywhere can i pick up on oil temp
- Where and how have the dash displays been mounted. I would prefer it behind the steering wheel in front of the standard clocks. I still have the standard steering shaft and standard clocks in place.

If possible please show me pictures of how you have mounted your displays.

Thank you.

[Tom R]

-Water temp can be taken from the ECU with an OBD2 connection; if you don't want to use the OBD2 route it will be easiest to buy a water temp sensor. Alternatively, you can have the DL1 supply current to the OEM water temp sensor, but you will need to determine your own resistance calibration (not worth the effort)
-no oil temp sensor from the factory; you need to supply your own; best to weld one into the oil pan
-dont have a dash2

[BruceT328]

Thank you Tom R.

I have an OBD1 vehicle so would it be similar?

Any dash pictures will be great. Its more about giving me ideas on how to mount it than the actual display.

[dmw16]

For oil temp and pressure a few vendors (Bimmerworld for sure) sells a small plate that goes onto the filter housing and provides 2 (or maybe 3?) NPT holes for sensors. For water temp you can use the hole in the block that feeds the dash board indicator (not the one that goes to the ECU) and just put your dash's sensor in there instead. I think it's between cylinders 1 and 2 or 2 and 3...can't recall.

As for mounting I've seen a lot of different ways. I'm not familiar with the dash you mentioned, but I assume it's at least similar to an AiM? One guy made a carbon fiber bracket from carbon sheet and attached it thru the screw holes that hold the wiper and turn stalks on. Came out nice.

[Tom R]

Thank you Tom R.

I have an OBD1 vehicle so would it be similar?

Any dash pictures will be great. Its more about giving me ideas on how to mount it than the actual display.

OBD1 is not supported by RT so that ECU interface will not work. You will need an additional sensor.

[BruceT328]

OK thank you for the replies.

If anyone has pictures of screens mounted in an e36 please share them with me.

Thanks again.

[dmw16]

OK thank you for the replies.

If anyone has pictures of screens mounted in an e36 please share them with me.

Thanks again.

I don't say this to sound smug, so please don't take it as such. But head over to google and search "Aim dash mount" and then check out the image results. There are lots of ideas there.

[BruceT328]

Thank you dmw16.

sorry I hadnt heard of the Aim until now so will definitely do that

[dmw16]

Thank you dmw16.

sorry I hadnt heard of the Aim until now so will definitely do that

Sure thing. Happy to help.

AiM is pretty much the standard for digital dashboards with data. At least as far as I can tell in the paddock. Their software is very good and they have good support (at least in my part of the US) as far as seminars and such. They also offer a pretty wide array of products from the Solo (which is a portable data logger and lap timer) for $300 up to the AiM MXG which is a full color LCD thing that costs about $2500.

I'm not familiar with the dash you mentioned, but you may at least what to give AiM a look. But ultimately I'd use what everyone else in your paddock uses so you have access to as much support and knowledge as possible.

[BruceT328]

ok thank you.

[osborni]

Water - get an aluminum thermostat housing and tap it for a sensor. It is thin, so you'll want to go slow with the tap. On some engines, there is an unused port under the intake manifold, but I can't remember what vintage. Some also tap into the water line that runs to the throttle body.

Oil T - accessory block that mounts to the oil filter housing. VAC and Bimmerworld sell them IIRC. You Can get a sender that replaces the oil change bung in the pan, but that isn't going to be the same temp as the head.

Oil P - again accessory block.

I run R-T hardware (DL1 and a Dash2) and software. Back when I bought the stuff (~8-10 years ago???) the AIM software frankly sucked. That was a long time ago and I haven't looked again. The other reason that I don't like AIM is the system is closed. It costs money to put your own sensors on it. R-T (and some others) use standard 0-5 VDC sensors with common connections. AIM seams to be plug/play, but you pay for that. Maybe that has changed as well. They all cost about the same (within a few hundred) when it's all done.

[dmw16]

Water - get an aluminum thermostat housing and tap it for a sensor. It is thin, so you'll want to go slow with the tap. On some engines, there is an unused port under the intake manifold, but I can't remember what vintage. Some also tap into the water line that runs to the throttle body.

Oil T - accessory block that mounts to the oil filter housing. VAC and Bimmerworld sell them IIRC. You Can get a sender that replaces the oil change bung in the pan, but that isn't going to be the same temp as the head.

Oil P - again accessory block.

I run R-T hardware (DL1 and a Dash2) and software. Back when I bought the stuff (~8-10 years ago???) the AIM software frankly sucked. That was a long time ago and I haven't looked again. The other reason that I don't like AIM is the system is closed. It costs money to put your own sensors on it. R-T (and some others) use standard 0-5 VDC sensors with common connections. AIM seams to be plug/play, but you pay for that. Maybe that has changed as well. They all cost about the same (within a few hundred) when it's all done.

For water temp it's easier to put whatever sensor you want into the hole that the dash board sensor uses. Works better than taping the housing.

[BruceT328]

Thank you. That helps a lot. I have the DL1 and Dash2 also.
Do you perhaps have a picture of your screen mounting?

I will look at the oil block thing. Does anyone have a link for it? I will obviously try and search for it also.

Thank you again for the information.

[dmw16]

Thank you. That helps a lot. I have the DL1 and Dash2 also.
Do you perhaps have a picture of your screen mounting?

I will look at the oil block thing. Does anyone have a link for it? I will obviously try and search for it also.

Thank you again for the information.

Here are the options for the oil sensors.

Block - http://store.bimmerworld.com/bimmerw...ock-p1250.aspx
Lid - https://store.vacmotorsports.com/vac...s54-p1065.aspx

You only need one or the other. The lid is easier to install, but the block (I think) provides better data. The cap sits over the filter so I think the pressure and temps may be a little off. But both are good options and plenty of racers out there using both of these.

[BruceT328]

Thank you dmw16 thats a great help. Do you know if the block will allow for connection of the vanos oil feed line?

[dmw16]

Thank you dmw16 thats a great help. Do you know if the block will allow for connection of the vanos oil feed line?

The block doesn't interfere with any of the factory lines. Lots of VANOS motors running them with no issues. The block would be my suggestion as the way to go. Tho the cap looks trick (especially in orange) I think the block is the better option.

[BruceT328]

Excellent. Thank you again for all the info. I will be ordering the block.

[BruceT328]

Thanks very much for the advice.

I managed to mount the dash and data logger and its working with the basic stuff (speed, revs, sector, lap and predictive times). Its not the neatest bracket as it was made with very basic tools but it will do. Will be adding water and oil pressure and temps as soon as I get the bits needed to do so.

WP_20151017_005.jpg

[dmw16]

Looks good. In the history of dash board installs there have been far worse ones. My first bracket for my AiM MXL was way worse.

[BruceT328]

Thank you. Now to remove all the wiring thats not needed. Most of the guys I race with also laugh at me as I still have electric front windows but in the last race it was over 30C/+-90F, so to be able to open a a window after the race was a blessing.

[dmw16]

Thank you. Now to remove all the wiring thats not needed. Most of the guys I race with also laugh at me as I still have electric front windows but in the last race it was over 30C/+-90F, so to be able to open a a window after the race was a blessing.

Interesting that you're allowed to have front windows closed during a race. In the US front windows have to be removed (in a race car) or down (for doing track days) and obviously for racing a window net is required. It's a safety thing. Funny how things are different in different places.

Be careful with the wiring harness. I started trying to prune mine and got carried away, now I'm building an entire chassis harness from scratch. It's a very slippery slope. Personally I'd leave the wiring alone until you're ready to commit to building a full harness.

[BruceT328]

Yes i think that is probably the safest idea. I plan on just removing stuff like the airconditioner, radio and interior fan wiring.

It is strange how the rules change. Here most people prefer closed windows so you dont get covered in stones, dust and water if you go off but a safety net is not a requirement. I still have the standard glass windows but it is recommended that they be replaced with perpex (is that the correct name?)
Im still learning and developing as I go along.
(you can see some pics and videos on my page here: www.facebook.com/groups/bruised - dont laugh too much)

[fbirch]

Here are the options for the oil sensors.

Block - http://store.bimmerworld.com/bimmerw...ock-p1250.aspx
Lid - https://store.vacmotorsports.com/vac...s54-p1065.aspx

You only need one or the other. The lid is easier to install, but the block (I think) provides better data. The cap sits over the filter so I think the pressure and temps may be a little off. But both are good options and plenty of racers out there using both of these.

Bumping an old thread here. I currently have the Bimmerworld OBD for oil temp and pressure. Pressure works fine, but I'm suspicious of the oil temp readings from the ODB. On my car the water temp gets up to its equilibrium value very rapidly, but it takes forever for the oil temperature to do the same and I'm wondering if that is an artifact of reading temp from the ODB block.

The oil column that contacts the temp sensor through the ODB is a dead end path with this block. So there is no oil flow past the sensor tip. The block also has a small amount of mass and gets blasted with air flow through the engine bay, which means it sheds heat, likely lowering the indicated temperature.

Can anyone comment on the performance of the VAC cap - how quickly does the oil temp come up to equilibrium?

[ScotcH]

Bumping an old thread here. I currently have the Bimmerworld OBD for oil temp and pressure. Pressure works fine, but I'm suspicious of the oil temp readings from the ODB. On my car the water temp gets up to its equilibrium value very rapidly, but it takes forever for the oil temperature to do the same and I'm wondering if that is an artifact of reading temp from the ODB block.

The oil column that contacts the temp sensor through the ODB is a dead end path with this block. So there is no oil flow past the sensor tip. The block also has a small amount of mass and gets blasted with air flow through the engine bay, which means it sheds heat, likely lowering the indicated temperature.

Can anyone comment on the performance of the VAC cap - how quickly does the oil temp come up to equilibrium?

Interesting thought … I think the oil will heat regardless of flow, just by conduction (is that the right word?). Might be slower, but oil heats slower for sure. What do you mean by forever? We have our remote mounted, and I think it takes maybe 5-10 minutes minutes to get fully up to temp on the track?

[NeilM]

On my car the water temp gets up to its equilibrium value very rapidly, but it takes forever for the oil temperature to do the same and I'm wondering if that is an artifact of reading temp from the ODB block.

Nope, it's a function of how long it actually takes the oil to come up to temperature on these engines. Big cast iron block plus generous oil capacity equals lots of thermal mass.

I've measured mine both at an oil distribution block on the oil filter housing and in the oil pan. Readings aren't very different between the two places, so it's more a matter of convenience. The oil filter housing area was a bit crowded when I had both oil temp and pressure senders there, plus the low oil pressure warning switch and the VANOS line, so I found it tidier to remote mount the oil pressure and move oil temp to the pan. YMMV.

Neil