"What did you do to your E39 today V2.0."

[taz.]

I'm back baby!!!!

Gave the Taz a good wash yesterday, it was full of salt. Even though I don't drive it much in the winter, except cross Europe if needed, I took it out on a sunny Sunday to go and see Babylon,
When we came out.... bam... snowing.... and of course, Danish being prompt, they have already salted the road. I had only 5 km to home..... the horror!!!!!



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[Jason5driver]

On the wheel?
Is this one of the wheels you've been straightening? Wonder if the bore got deformed.

I am going to order new rear wheel bearings and rear hubs .
1. FCP has Febi-Bilstein rear hubs for $82 each , and FAG rear bearings for $66 each - which totals to around $300 shipped .
2. Rock Auto has Timken rear bearings for $51 each , and " Durago " rear hubs for $30 each - which totals around $200 shipped ...
I am assuming the " Durago " hubs are Chinese ?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=7632&jsn=897
What to do ... ? lol ...

[Burning2nd]

sprayed a mew front M bumper skin... as mine was attacked by a random wildlife animal

and well.. 2001 Mtech bumpers... that are still orginal... yeah.. they shatter

ditching the intensive care,

[computiNATEor]

I am going to order new rear wheel bearings and rear hubs .
1. FCP has Febi-Bilstein rear hubs for $82 each , and FAG rear bearings for $66 each - which totals to around $300 shipped .
2. Rock Auto has Timken rear bearings for $51 each , and " Durago " rear hubs for $30 each - which totals around $200 shipped ...
I am assuming the " Durago " hubs are Chinese ?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=7632&jsn=897
What to do ... ? lol ...

Rear hubs/bearings are a bear of a job, if I understand correctly.

[Jason5driver]

Rear hubs/bearings are a bear of a job, if I understand correctly.

Right !
Fun times ahead for me I guess …. lol
Have you done this job ?

[Nfs021]

Removed each of the wheels one at a time to check over stuff like brakes and suspension. All was well except for this damn rear upper control arm bolt. Was slighty loose. Second time I've discovered this same nut loose in the past several months. Last time I replaced the nut and torqued to spec. However this time I'm just going to replace the nut and the bolt and lather the sucker in Loctite! Will hit the dealer tomorrow for replacements. Right now it's torqued as tight as I feel comfortable tightening it to without snapping the bolt.
140035_Gallery.jpg

Meanwhile while the wheels were off. Ewww...
20230507_131142.jpg

Ahhh, much better.
20230507_132005.jpg

Back on the car and look as good as new!
20230507_133900.jpg

[taz.]

Rear hubs/bearings are a bear of a job, if I understand correctly.

Not really. If you have a lift, it's not that bad, that, if you have the bearings with hubs and don't need to extract the hubs. I think that's the pita. For my comfort, I bought the bearings with hubs. All 4.

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[taz.]

Right !
Fun times ahead for me I guess …. lol
Have done this job ?

Save yourself the pain of getting the bearings out and get them with the hubs. Make life a lot easier when changing them. It's not that bad to change them. Remember to clean the ends of the threads of the bolts holding bearing on the spindle. They get rusty and oxidation forms around also and might give you a headache. I cleaned them thoroughly and gave them some rust looser spray, and they came right out. The new bearings came with new bolts with red loctite on them. While in there, do yourself a favor and paint or replace the brake disk cover plates if needed


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[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

Well shoot, the fronts are easy as hell, the rears are the pain in the butt.

[taz.]

Well shoot, the fronts are easy as hell, the rears are the pain in the butt.

I had no problems with the rear. Did them on the lift, though, and the drive shafts came out without any fuss.

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[Nfs021]

Ugh...nice expired tags too dummy. 181409.jpg

[haolibird]

JimLev,

Being you asked...

New front bushings all around. Poly's.
New tie rod ends.
Rebuilt the sunroof...MF'er!!!
2 weeks, start to finish. (weekender, of course)

Hell, that's enough for a while...

[Nfs021]

Rebuilt the sunroof...MF'er!!!

Replaced mine entirely. Much easier lol.

[StephenVA]

Replace the 528i trunk struts and the wagon hood struts no more ‘French’ body chopper.

[mateo8]

Took the wagon for inspection over the weekend, now completely legal, see y'all at Katies on Saturday morning

[Jason5driver]

Finally got the new rear bearings and rear hubs in from FCP .
I just need to figure out what the best way is to putting the new bearings onto the new hubs ...
1. Hammer the new bearings onto the new hubs using a piece of 2x block of wood / and / or a large socket , or
2. Have the new bearing pressed on to the new hub ?
Has anyone done this DIY , so I can verify ?

[Ed CT]

You'll want to press them in. Don't do any hammering on the bearings. I DIY'd mine but can't remember exactly how I pressed the bearings onto the hub, but it's very doable. If there's a thru-hole in the center (which I think there is for the axel), you can take a strut compressor threaded shaft, place it thru the center hole, and tighten it down using a large socket (maybe the 36mm for the axel) and the back of the spring grasp. Just make sure it's all aligned before pressing. And make sure that the socket and spring grasp are pressing on the inner bearing race (the one being pressed over the hub), otherwise the bearing will split apart.

[SW530]

You'll want to press them in. Don't do any hammering on the bearings. I DIY'd mine but can't remember exactly how I pressed the bearings onto the hub, but it's very doable. If there's a thru-hole in the center (which I think there is for the axel), you can take a strut compressor threaded shaft, place it thru the center hole, and tighten it down using a large socket (maybe the 36mm for the axel) and the back of the spring grasp. Just make sure it's all aligned before pressing. And make sure that the socket and spring grasp are pressing on the inner bearing race (the one being pressed over the hub), otherwise the bearing will split apart.

+1 add some heat to make the pop less.

[Nfs021]

This is extremely annoying. 20230518_142213.jpg

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[SW530]

This is extremely annoying. 20230518_142213.jpg

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I had almost exactly the same thing happen with the new set of Conti's we put on the car early last summer. They were still new enough to smell the rubber and need the inventory markings on the sidewalls cleaned. I hadn't even made it home yet, I'd stopped at the local Do It Best hardware store and when I came out there was a screw right where yours is! Enough to make you am unhappy camper for sure. This is when I started asking tire manufacturers the time honored question. Which is better . "plugs or patches?" Which I still don't have a good answer for. I know some states outlaw one and some the other.

[Nfs021]

I had almost exactly the same thing happen with the new set of Conti's we put on the car early last summer. They were still new enough to smell the rubber and need the inventory markings on the sidewalls cleaned. I hadn't even made it home yet, I'd stopped at the local Do It Best hardware store and when I came out there was a screw right where yours is! Enough to make you am unhappy camper for sure. This is when I started asking tire manufacturers the time honored question. Which is better . "plugs or patches?" Which I still don't have a good answer for. I know some states outlaw one and some the other.

Yeah, these were installed last Aug as well. Still looking almost new thanks to the thorough front/rear suspension overhaul last year and alignment.

Luckily I have a warranty which covered tire replacement. Sucks 3 tires now are evenly worn while one is brand new. Oh well, could've been a lot worse.

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[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

Rule is, no shops will repair if the screw, nail, or whatever went in that close to the edge, I don’t know, I would get a patch and patch it myself. Use the tire anyway. And as for that plug vs patch argument, a plug s great when you are out in the middle of no where, but a plug is only considered a temporary fix, as it will start leaking within six months to a year. A patch vulcanized inside of the tire is a permanent fix. The only reason a patch may not take, is because the section to be patched was not prepped properly, and all oils wiped clean before applying the vulcanizing glue.

[scottieducati]

A plug / patch combo is best. Installed from the inside of the tire out.


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[SW530]

Back in the day we'd light the glue on fire, snuff it out, and then immediately apply and roll the patch. Never had one fail. A plug like you say will leak but not suddenly fail.. and a proper application of a patch takes experience and guys with experience don't wan tto work on tires.. so that leaves us with states with different rules.. Mine was plugged and patched. Still fine.

[Jason5driver]

You'll want to press them in. Don't do any hammering on the bearings.
I DIY'd mine but can't remember exactly how I pressed the bearings onto the hub, but it's very doable.
If there's a thru-hole in the center (which I think there is for the axel), you can take a strut compressor threaded shaft, place it thru the center hole, and tighten it down using a large socket (maybe the 36mm for the axel) and the back of the spring grasp. Just make sure it's all aligned before pressing. And make sure that the socket and spring grasp are pressing on the inner bearing race (the one being pressed over the hub), otherwise the bearing will split apart.

Ok , thanks !
How about unbolting the bearing from the main hub ?
The bolts are E14's ... but the space is extremely limited ... I have seen Cnn's write-up using 1/4" e14 socket - is that what you did ?
Or , do you remove the half-shaft / drive axles in order the access the bolt heads ?