Thread: "What did you do to your E39 today V2.0."

  1. #9826
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    Quote Originally Posted by jp5Touring View Post
    Turned out very nice,like the new color.
    Thanks! It’s Eastwood Sparkle Silver Hotcoat finished with their Super Gloss Clear. Last owner had them rattle canned black including the bolts. Was messy to strip and clean but worth the effort.

  2. #9827
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    Just few hundred kilometers after valve stem job and old spark plugs look way cleaner than they where before. Looks like the engine isn't burning oil anymore.



    Anyway, new spark plugs when't in.
    Current rides: E65 730dA '04, F10 520dA '11, E34 520iA '91

    Old rides: E46 316Ti, E53 X5, E38 728iA, E39 528iA, E46 318i Touring, E38 730dA, E36 316i, E36 328iA Cabrio, E38 728i, E38 750i, E36/3 320i, E36 318i, E39 530dA Touring, E38 740i, E39 528iA, E34 525iA, E32 750iL, E32 730iL, E34/2 525TDS,
    E34 525i, E28 518i, E34 535i, E34/2 525iA, E30/5 325i, E34 535i, E28 520i https://www.instagram.com/zener__/

  3. #9828
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    Been driving the M5 daily recently trying to get to the bottom of inconsistent oil consumption and CC vacuum pressure. I've come to the conclusion that the lower vacuum hoses for the oil separator are old and sometimes collapse. I plan on changing the lower hoses, and the separators (Uppers have already been done.) Engine pic just 'cause.
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  4. #9829
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    JimLev is offline Artifically Aspirated Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by Twistytee View Post
    Thanks! It’s Eastwood Sparkle Silver Hotcoat finished with their Super Gloss Clear. Last owner had them rattle canned black including the bolts. Was messy to strip and clean but worth the effort.
    They look nice. Wheels are big, what did you use for an oven, hope it wasn't your kitchen oven.
    I've used 7 or 8 different Eastwood powders, much better and more durable than any paint.

  5. #9830
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    DME soft mod... Little more power to lower rpm's. Thinking of buying m54b30 intake cam.
    Current rides: E65 730dA '04, F10 520dA '11, E34 520iA '91

    Old rides: E46 316Ti, E53 X5, E38 728iA, E39 528iA, E46 318i Touring, E38 730dA, E36 316i, E36 328iA Cabrio, E38 728i, E38 750i, E36/3 320i, E36 318i, E39 530dA Touring, E38 740i, E39 528iA, E34 525iA, E32 750iL, E32 730iL, E34/2 525TDS,
    E34 525i, E28 518i, E34 535i, E34/2 525iA, E30/5 325i, E34 535i, E28 520i https://www.instagram.com/zener__/

  6. #9831
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    Pulled out the factory amp and went aftermarket. Lots of wires to splice and route but the system sounds much cleaner now. Keeping the factory HU for the time being but new speakers and subs next on tap.

    Untitled by Twistytee, on Flickr

  7. #9832
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    They look nice. Wheels are big, what did you use for an oven, hope it wasn't your kitchen oven.
    I've used 7 or 8 different Eastwood powders, much better and more durable than any paint.
    Lol. I’d be divorced long ago if the Mrs. caught me using the kitchen oven. I picked-up a discarded convection oven from someone doing a home remodel. It can fit up to 17” wheels but I’d need to build my own PC oven if I wanted to do bigger. I have 220v wired into the garage for a 2-stage compressor or welder so I tap power off the same feed for the oven.

    Eastwood products are nice. I’m restoring another car so I’ve used my blast cabinet and their PC products to do a lot of suspension parts, brakes, pedal assemblies, etc. Not a cheap hobby but it saves money over farming everything out.

  8. #9833
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    Pressing out the ball joints went a little like this:

    IMG_8695-1.jpg

    And this:

    IMG_8698.jpg

    Get the BMW tools kids.

  9. #9834
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    I just hit those with PB Blaster and bang em out with a hammer... works most of the time. Otherwise I use the HF ball joint tool, it works on most of the ball joints. Pickle fork for everything else. If you're replacing the ball joint with the whole arm then you don't really need to be too careful. And if the sleeve comes out, use the ball joint tool to pull it off and pound the sleeve back in before installing the new ball joint.
    1995 525i 5-speed - Thread

  10. #9835
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    Quote Originally Posted by dannyzabolotny View Post
    I just hit those with PB Blaster and bang em out with a hammer... works most of the time. Otherwise I use the HF ball joint tool, it works on most of the ball joints. Pickle fork for everything else. If you're replacing the ball joint with the whole arm then you don't really need to be too careful. And if the sleeve comes out, use the ball joint tool to pull it off and pound the sleeve back in before installing the new ball joint.
    That's exactly the tools I used to replace mine. HF BJ tool and the pickle fork to remove the one sleeve that came out on one side.
    I do not believe in a risk free society where the thrill of living is traded for the safety of existence. Nick Ienatsch

    The law does NOT determine "right" from "wrong". They are unrelated.

    If you put cheap parts on your car, you will soon have a cheap parts car.

  11. #9836
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    Quote Originally Posted by dannyzabolotny View Post
    I just hit those with PB Blaster and bang em out with a hammer... works most of the time. Otherwise I use the HF ball joint tool, it works on most of the ball joints. Pickle fork for everything else. If you're replacing the ball joint with the whole arm then you don't really need to be too careful. And if the sleeve comes out, use the ball joint tool to pull it off and pound the sleeve back in before installing the new ball joint.
    Second picture is pressing the sleeve back in with a gear puller. You don't want to see what the two pickle forks look like now (one is splayed, one is mushroomed)... I hit the joint with blaster, with a four pound sledge, hit the control arm with a four pound sledge, hit the knuckle with the sledge. Didn't really want to burn off the blaster or pop the ball joint with heat. In the end the HF 6" two jaw puller seen in the second picture popped the joint most of the way out before gouging the knuckle (oops, don't cut the joint preemptively, or better yet leave the steel washer in place when pushing it out). Fifteen years in Canadia will do that I suppose. The date code was worn down so I couldn't read it, but with no record of the control arms ever being changed I assume they're original at 120k miles.

    That said HF is not where I'd go for pullers and such. That two jaw puller is just clumsy AF (and is HF's lowest quality tier -- Made in India). This style (https://www.diyauto.com/images/impor...12/09/1088.jpg) looks way more manageable. For the BJ press I bought the OTC unit a while back. It's not super expensive ($40) and I'd trust it way more than any of the HF stuff. HF's newish Maddox line of suspension stuff is all PRC sourced I think. In HF land Taiwan > PRC > India, and for a lot of things at HF you don't want to go much worse than the Taiwanese made stuff .

    Lesson learned, the spendy BMW tools really make life much, much easier. I dropped the coin on the BMW ones for the E46 outer front joint and the 540 pitman+idler arm and don't regret it for a moment (steering crap on the 540 took about an hour by comparison). The OTC one is nice enough but it's bulky. In the end those clamshell type things work way better than everything else IMO. The problem with a pickle fork (or that @#$ gear puller) is that when it works you're pretty well guaranteed to push the sleeve out too. I doused everything with fluid film (lanolin) for good measure before reassembly. Rather than swing a sledge around I'd much rather drop the cash on a press (and I may rent it out if I end up with the BMW one). Maybe I'm just too old, but I think pickle forks are really only good as a last resort (e.g. inner joints on an E46). Work smart, not hard.
    Last edited by blarf; 09-22-2018 at 02:02 PM.

  12. #9837
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    E85 fueled, Eaton m112 supercharged 4.5L M62TU, TTV racing flywheel, Spec stage 2+ clutch, 88c thermostat, eibach sway bars, wavetrac 3.15 lsd, m5 steering box, Quantum 340lph fuel pump, Dinan camber plates, some powerflex bushings, Supersprint headers, M5 cats, 2001 gas pedal upgrade and many other things done. all diy by me

  13. #9838
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    What brand did you buy? Really curious to hear how you like them and performance changes...



    Quote Originally Posted by 1999 540i m View Post

  14. #9839
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    Quote Originally Posted by GotF1 View Post
    What brand did you buy? Really curious to hear how you like them and performance changes...

    Supersprint headers and pipes, with 55k mile m5 cat's
    E85 fueled, Eaton m112 supercharged 4.5L M62TU, TTV racing flywheel, Spec stage 2+ clutch, 88c thermostat, eibach sway bars, wavetrac 3.15 lsd, m5 steering box, Quantum 340lph fuel pump, Dinan camber plates, some powerflex bushings, Supersprint headers, M5 cats, 2001 gas pedal upgrade and many other things done. all diy by me

  15. #9840
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    are rusting away
    My touring rear lights are in a bad shaped, all cracked up and dull, I can't fix the cracking, but I delayed replacing them by polishing them enough to be respectable. Came out really good considering what I started out with, but I bet a professional detailer would be able to get out much more. Still not perfect, I need to polish the edges when I get time to do them:



    Live slow, die whenever

  16. #9841
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    ^^^came out nice MehMan - they look a lot clearer.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Added some sound insulation to the bottom of the rear deck so I could hang subs and minimize the rattle. Nice kit from ebay - included a quality roller and razor knife for doing the install.

    Untitled by Twistytee, on Flickr

  17. #9842
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    Since I don't have my e39 but still have my M62 X5 I feel this is relevant...

    Day 2 today of replacing my valley pan, wasn't planning on doing the rear coolant transfer pipe but I found that the CCV return line was ripped underneath it so I had to remove it to reach the hose to remove and replace. I guess i'm glad I did it since now I have 2 fresh new gaskets on that as well... one less thing to worry about leaking.

    I'm working on it little by little after work a few hours a night so should hopefully have it all put back together soon.
    E39 WhatsApp Chat Gruppe

  18. #9843
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    JimLev is offline Artifically Aspirated Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by Twistytee View Post
    ^^^came out nice MehMan - they look a lot clearer.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Added some sound insulation to the bottom of the rear deck so I could hang subs and minimize the rattle. Nice kit from ebay - included a quality roller and razor knife for doing the install.

    Untitled by Twistytee, on Flickr
    I'm using that and some heat reflecting stuff I bought from DEI on my '33 Hotrod.

  19. #9844
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    CDV delete (with the CDV from UUC)

    God does it make a huge difference! My shifting is so smooth now!


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    e39 520i ´99, shifter 5+1

    Modifications done:
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  20. #9845
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    Bjorn got an oil change. Then we noticed one FR roll bar end link full on broke and the other was about to.
    And the rear tires were bald.
    That was quick ... *shakes head*
    Maybe we should leave the ASC on?
    Then it's rear brakes tho
    Hang up & Drive!
    Jerry .. 85 Toyo MR2 140K .. ( 20V wiring gremlins *grrrr* )
    Björn .. 03 BMW 540i///M 148K .. ( beat up allstar *oof* )
    Gerta .. 03 BMW 540iT&A 151K .. ( chain guide triage *shakes head* )
    Franz .. 96 BMW 318ti 207k .. ( the new, new daily *GRIN* )
    Wendy .. 20 Honda Refrigerator 28k .. ( for the wife and kids, has flappy paddles? *squint* )
    Resistance was Futile...

    "Now, it takes me three months just to fix a door lock because .. crying babies" - rammstein





  21. #9846
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    Quote Originally Posted by paul p View Post
    Bjorn got an oil change. Then we noticed one FR roll bar end link full on broke and the other was about to.
    And the rear tires were bald.
    That was quick ... *shakes head*
    Maybe we should leave the ASC on?
    Then it's rear brakes tho
    Brake pads are less expensive than new tires. Lol...
    I do not believe in a risk free society where the thrill of living is traded for the safety of existence. Nick Ienatsch

    The law does NOT determine "right" from "wrong". They are unrelated.

    If you put cheap parts on your car, you will soon have a cheap parts car.

  22. #9847
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    Quote Originally Posted by Santaclaus4 View Post
    Brake pads are less expensive than new tires. Lol...
    Just pads, yes. Rotors and a time=money labor differential, it gets close. And ASC off is certainly more fun w/ M62 anyway.
    Can't complain really since Sumitomo HTRZ3s are still only $96 in 235-17 from the Rack. Not old either, production 43rd week of 2017.
    Hang up & Drive!
    Jerry .. 85 Toyo MR2 140K .. ( 20V wiring gremlins *grrrr* )
    Björn .. 03 BMW 540i///M 148K .. ( beat up allstar *oof* )
    Gerta .. 03 BMW 540iT&A 151K .. ( chain guide triage *shakes head* )
    Franz .. 96 BMW 318ti 207k .. ( the new, new daily *GRIN* )
    Wendy .. 20 Honda Refrigerator 28k .. ( for the wife and kids, has flappy paddles? *squint* )
    Resistance was Futile...

    "Now, it takes me three months just to fix a door lock because .. crying babies" - rammstein





  23. #9848
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    Quote Originally Posted by MehMan View Post
    Those amber tails look really slick on the touring.

  24. #9849
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    Installed the rear hatch shocks and glass struts today.

  25. #9850
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    Installed Junkyard sourced aftermarket gloss black kidney grilles, new rear suspension control arms, pressure washed the engine compartment, and replaced the valve cover gaskets.
    now off to get it inspected this afternoon.

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