That’s what I wanted, just couldn’t find them anywhere, looks like they don’t make them for my car.
https://www.tirerack.com/suspension/...up=&cat=Shocks
Last edited by JimLev; 07-03-2022 at 12:37 AM. Reason: Added info
Dinan Koni set up
Current Garage Highlights
2003 525iT TiSilver
2002 M5 TiSilver
1998 528i KASCHMIRBEIGE METALLIC (301) (Goldie)
Former Garage Highlights
2005 X5 4.8is
2004 325iTs (2x)
1973 Pantera L
1971 Dodge Dart Swinger "Lite Package"
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 340 Six Pack Alpine White
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 340 Six Pack GoManGo Green
1969 Road Runner 383
1968 Barracuda Formula S 340 Sea Foam Green
Wash and last oil change for Mrs. Ross' '99. It's up for sale after 15 years of service.
Mrs. Ross is a bit sad. Coming from a woman that views cars strictly as appliances this is testimony to this model's ability to win over the driver.
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
Get her another one, simple.
Set the controls for the heart of the sun
A few questions for the E39 brain trust:
1. Is there any common way to fix an RLS (rain sensor)? Maybe a common component goes bad or something needs to be cleaned? My original sensor works every occasionally but mostly when in Position 1 it acts like when in Position 2, that being the slow wiper speed. The lens is firmly adhered to the glass via a gel pad and removing the actual sensor was easy. The the gel pad has to be changed when they replaced the windshield last year. I have a second sensor that was sold on ebay as "working." Unfortunately it doesn't work. When in Position 1 it does nothing. If either of these two sensors can be fixed or if there's a common remedy I'd appreciate knowing.
2. The mounting disc that adheres to the windshield: That's normally glued on via a super glue type adhesive just other manufacturers use? Asking because the mirror came off in my hands and it had a large chunk of black epoxy stuck on it, and the windshield where it goes had s chunk of windshield almost as large or exactly as large as the disc missing. I'm guessing the grunt who installed the new windshield somehow broke it and used the epoxy to complete the job because no one would find the hack job any time soon. I suppose I could rig up a way to mount the mounting disc via the same black epoxy.. but at the angle it's at it wouldn't stay, might even drip. I suppose I could use masking tape to hold it in place till it cures? ORrrr.. I could use quick curing epoxy. I have some A + B two part epoxy putty, the type you knead together? O could push that into the hold and the mounting disc into that.. let it cure and Bob's Your Uncle.. but it's a white and the white would show "white" on the outside of the windscreen.. rather have black of grey putty.. would rather have a new windshield.
3. Last question, promise.. I have a set of new windshield washer nozzles, washer line, and fittings and want to fix my washer system. I notice you can use the regular or intense washer system. Currently when using the regular system I get a weak spurt that travels about 10-12 inches hitting the windshield low on the bottom half. Looks like weak pressure. When it does this it looks like somehow washer fluid from the regular tank travels into the intense tank filling it more. The lines from the intense system that normally goes to the headlight washer are present but not connected because there are no headlight washer nozzles. Any common remedies to look at/for?
Thank you and have a happy July 4th!!!
A great ending is all you'll see..
__________________________________________________ _____________
Get a used RLS from a junkyard and try that. They’re cheap
Yes, just the standard mirror glue any other car uses. I knocked my mirror off in my first 530 with my elbow while vacuuming.
Personally, I’d remove the intensive cleaning system; the double washer line and tank don’t do anything, and the headlight washers, while required in Germany for cars with projectors, don’t do well enough to justify their mess.
Nate J.
(oOO\ (|||)º(|||) /OOo)
Titanium Silver/Black Nappa Full 07-18-2001 E39 M5 Heritage (BZ99672). 198,000mi+. Increasing daily. Engine rebuild thread.
(eŌō\ (||||)º(||||) / ōŌe)
Alpineweiss III/Black Merino Full 03-26-2007 E60 M5 Manual (CX08265). 157,000+. Dead starter -_-
RIP, Seabiscuit. Black Sapphire/Schwarz 03-11-2003 530iA Sport (CK39185). T-boned 03-01-2017 at 155,861mi.
Take 2 "Otto" - Toledo Blue/Sandbeige 04-25-2002 530iA Sport (CH98032). Sold 11-10-2017 at 147,743mi.
Take 3 "Manuel" - Toledo Blue/Grau 10-29-2001 530i5 Sport (CE92358). Sold 02-01-2019 at 217,600mi. I regret that. Build Log
Reliable P.O.S. - Green/gray 1995 Camry V6 LE. 270k mi. Sold for space.
I hate them. I told myself to remove it a few years ago, but just have not gotten to it.
Set the controls for the heart of the sun
Big day tomorrow. Rear suspension overhaul with Bilstein B6 and all new hardware. Using pre-facelift E60/Z8 guide links that have a ball joint instead of a bushing. Part 33326779820 for those wondering. Would've done it last weekend but crappy China Freight spring compressor sucks Donkey Kong. Got a better one and am excited to get it all done. 20220626_121150.jpg
Nice. Did you get the spring perches adjusted?
Nate J.
(oOO\ (|||)º(|||) /OOo)
Titanium Silver/Black Nappa Full 07-18-2001 E39 M5 Heritage (BZ99672). 198,000mi+. Increasing daily. Engine rebuild thread.
(eŌō\ (||||)º(||||) / ōŌe)
Alpineweiss III/Black Merino Full 03-26-2007 E60 M5 Manual (CX08265). 157,000+. Dead starter -_-
RIP, Seabiscuit. Black Sapphire/Schwarz 03-11-2003 530iA Sport (CK39185). T-boned 03-01-2017 at 155,861mi.
Take 2 "Otto" - Toledo Blue/Sandbeige 04-25-2002 530iA Sport (CH98032). Sold 11-10-2017 at 147,743mi.
Take 3 "Manuel" - Toledo Blue/Grau 10-29-2001 530i5 Sport (CE92358). Sold 02-01-2019 at 217,600mi. I regret that. Build Log
Reliable P.O.S. - Green/gray 1995 Camry V6 LE. 270k mi. Sold for space.
Negative. All the local machine shops were either too busy to do it, or didn't want to do it at all out of fear of screwing up, or the shock possibly exploding. Lol yeah ok. There's barely a half inch between the Bilstein perch and lowest perch on the Koni's. Sounds like alot. But considering the car will ride high at first anyways being all new struts/shocks, I don't think it'll raise the car by much. Plus I'm sure the roads here will help wear them in faster lol. I'll give them a month. And if it doesn't work, I'll swap the Koni's back in temporarily while I source a shop that will machine a new groove.
And weirdly, I've only seen one person have the issue of the car riding higher with the B6's. Either something else on his car is off, or maybe his were part of a bad batch or something?
FYI - That A+B epoxy putty did the trick. I had a hard time lining it back on the mount right and ended up tugging on it using the mirror for leverage 4-5 times and it didn't come off. So glad that's done. I didn't put the plastics back on yet, waiting for the new sensor to get here.. hopefully soon. If I was thinking I would have put 5 or so 1/4 holes in the mount for the putty to ride into making it even stronger.. hindsight I guess.
A great ending is all you'll see..
__________________________________________________ _____________
Front and rear suspension 90% complete. Decided I wanted to get new spring perch grooves cut lower in the Bilstein B6 shocks before installing them so the car won't ride so high. So still using the Koni's in the rear. Only real issue was trying to get the new integral link bolted up. Talk about a massive PITA!! But both rear ball joints themselves though took less than 5 mins each with the Bavauto ball joint press tool I bought from ECS. So ridiculously easy, best $65 I ever spent lol.
As for the front, things went well for the most part. Only downside was that I wasn't able to get the wishbone replaced. Forgot my crappy China Freight ball joint popper is too small for the knuckle in that spot. I'll air hammer it out at work. Easy job. Koni struts though are definitely kaput! Making gargling noise as you press down on them lol.
Now to take a much needed rest. Forgot how much suspension work sucks when you don't have a lift. My body is aching everywhere. Need a giant ice pack lol.
Last edited by Nfs021; 07-08-2022 at 03:09 AM.
I’m choosing to avoid the B6s on my E60 M5, despite them being the only real option to keep EDC working.
So yes, I am spending way to much $$$$ on BMW dampers.
Nate J.
(oOO\ (|||)º(|||) /OOo)
Titanium Silver/Black Nappa Full 07-18-2001 E39 M5 Heritage (BZ99672). 198,000mi+. Increasing daily. Engine rebuild thread.
(eŌō\ (||||)º(||||) / ōŌe)
Alpineweiss III/Black Merino Full 03-26-2007 E60 M5 Manual (CX08265). 157,000+. Dead starter -_-
RIP, Seabiscuit. Black Sapphire/Schwarz 03-11-2003 530iA Sport (CK39185). T-boned 03-01-2017 at 155,861mi.
Take 2 "Otto" - Toledo Blue/Sandbeige 04-25-2002 530iA Sport (CH98032). Sold 11-10-2017 at 147,743mi.
Take 3 "Manuel" - Toledo Blue/Grau 10-29-2001 530i5 Sport (CE92358). Sold 02-01-2019 at 217,600mi. I regret that. Build Log
Reliable P.O.S. - Green/gray 1995 Camry V6 LE. 270k mi. Sold for space.
I got lucky and found a passenger seat base in a salvage yard (for $12 CAD - ($9 USD)). It was in near perfect shape. I swapped it to my drivers side:
Seat Bases side by side.jpg
(New Left / Old Right)
New seat base installed.jpg
Installed
The difference in the foam is very noticeable. I'd recommend doing this if you ever have the chance. It's not too difficult and took me maybe 4 - 5 hours. There are no hog rings. It's just leather stretched over prong-like fasteners. This seat base was from a comfort seat. Mine is just standard.
The leather on mine is in great shape. But the foam has been compressed by the passages of time and at least two 400lb owners.. mystery how the leather stayed so nice. I can't find the foam anywhere..
A great ending is all you'll see..
__________________________________________________ _____________
You can order the foam straight from the dealer.
Set the controls for the heart of the sun
I'll give feedback. But can't really compare to the Koni's. Were installed long before I bought my car. So they were already pretty worn when I got it.
I contemplated getting Genuine BMW. But they won't last as long and just not worth the money anymore.
Last edited by Nfs021; 07-08-2022 at 11:30 PM.
The original Sachs struts were gone at 80K (Masshole pothole roads) so I replaced them with Koni FSD’s that were driven on Masshole roads for 60K and the remaining 27K on NM roads. They are now toast with 87K on them.
I just bought Koni adjustable that I need to install soon.
F30A2B38-1C4F-44FC-AA17-26A062AE90F4.jpeg
Bookmarks