I was leaving the gym, and I found pieces of my tail light all over the street.
There was a note under the wiper, with a contact number, and "sorry, I hit your car..." .
It was a Ford F-150 that hit my car.
I have no idea how though, since my car was parallel parked on the street away from other cars.
Looking for an E39 belly pan , passenger front inner fender liner …
Crap, sorry to see that Jason. Sucks that some morons out there just plain cannot drive. At least the idiot was man enough to leave you that note and a contact number. They’re gonna have to cut out the tail light bucket, and the rear body panel, not a hard job, done a few of them before. Just make sure you research the body shop you take it to.
Set the controls for the heart of the sun
They were texting and not paying attention.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks...
I was / am pretty upset about the whole thing.
I know that every body shop wants to replace the rear quarter panel (huge money)....
I know some bmw techs through the years, and one I trust recommended the shop I took the E39 to.
Maybe...
Or just an older guy that wasn't too alert.
I don't know.
Looking for an E39 belly pan , passenger front inner fender liner …
That sux that your car got hit. But at least he left a note with info on it.
I heard a story where a guy backed into a parked car, got out and wrote a note saying "I am writing this note so the people who saw me back into you think I'm writing down my insurance information".
Ed CT
1998 528i
5-Speed
Aspen Silver
Aubergine Leather
Replaced a rear passenger-side window regulator for the second time... During my Monday morning commute some genius dropped a small load of wood in the road which I hit at about 65mph... I heard a clunck from my rear window, which was a quarter of the way down after the clunk and discovered my cable on that regulator snapped. Replacing the regulator again...
V/R Zachary Pullins Sr.
Florida Suncoast Chapter BMWCCA
2016 Cadillac SRX & 1999 E39 540i/Sport
" Vision without resources is just hallucination"
That sux that your car got hit. But at least he left a note with info on it.
It doesn't say whether it's a real phone number or not... hope it is and the guy is actually insured.
Today I was planning to replace the broken R fog light assembly on my 540i/6... post office just delivered a used ebay lamp. Opened the box and both mounting tabs are broken off and missing (not even in the box, so they obviously shipped it that way!) Large volume seller, too. Fortunately ebay refunded my money but still...
'98 740iL E38 201k, TCG at 190k, 5HP24 at 195k
'97 540i/6 E39 Dinan blower & stage 1 suspension 114k
'93 525i E34 "Golf Ball" (hail damaged) 334k
Have been getting System too lean bank 1/2 as well as misfire with low fuel codes. Car has been running very rough at idle due to misfires, but fine on the highway with load. Replaced spark plugs, fuel filter, and did an oil change. I think the actual resolution was the fuel filter being clogged. Only 105k on it so that was odd, but the car had sat for quite some time prior to purchase and while I manual swapped it. I also tried spark plugs first while the front of the car was on jack stands. It felt like it ran even rougher after starting it like that. Since the front of the car was inclined the fuel was having an even harder time getting to the injectors. Popped in the fuel filter and shes smooth as can be aside from the flywheel shakes. Fuel filters almost never resolve any actual issues, but I feel like this one did.
Now the only wobbles/shakes I have are from a old used up DMF and clutch. The thing will jiggle your insides at idle, and can vary as I lay on the throttle a bit. Also shudders really bad when coming back down to idle while stopping. Gonna blast it down to the beach for one last hoo-rah with the old flywheel/clutch then put a new single mass conversion in upon return. Don't have time to do it any other way at this point.
Last edited by WBAD530i; 03-20-2019 at 12:27 PM.
I called the guy that hit the car as soon as I saw the note.
I also called the police and had an officer make sure if everything was ok, or if there was a report needed for insurance.
The guy that hit my car was very nice, and he text me his insurance card which was through State Farm.
Looking for an E39 belly pan , passenger front inner fender liner …
Well as I said its super smooth now, its not Its definitely better, but something still isn't right at idle. My SES is not lit up, but I used my cheapo reader it said no codes found, but if you read them anyway I got Too lean Bank 1 and 2 (P0171 and P0174). I checked for vacuum leaks, and replaced the TB gasket/cleaned ICV. I guess I need to do a good ole DIY smoke test with a vape or something. Could be the intake gasket i suppose. I've already had all this off and replaced the CCV and all hoses/caps, etc.
Last edited by WBAD530i; 03-20-2019 at 03:23 PM.
This.
Sunroof stopped working months ago, I was able to jam it in the closed position at least, but the back end would drop when driving over bumps. Found a working one in a JY dog for $49. Cleaned it up, swapped the tan slider for the gray one in our car, swapped a few more parts to make sure everything was working great, greased it up and its now in there and working fine.
Used the TIS, and writeups from GG, JimLev and TheAngryBear, along with my previous experience tearing up the JY dog to get the working one out, pretty much the same as my e38 when I swapped the roof lining on that one.
One question, I installed and adjusted the runroof, then performed the calibrating procedure, all works great. While installing the roof liner, I am now not able to install the four small screws that hold up the liner on the rear edge of the runroof opening. The L, R and front are doing a fine job holding it up, but wondering how to get the rear ones in for completeness. The glass does not go far enough back.
Also, while pass seat was out, fixed the seat twist. Tried to fix the up/down twist and was not successful, is there something different for that portion of the seat? I assume all the cable work the same. Used the method where you heat up the fittings with them still installed and just pull the cable and reset it.
02 e39 540i Sport (Son), 01 DINAN 7 (Me), 12 e70 X5 x35i (Mrs), 95 e34 525i (Daughter 2), 01 e46 325Ci vert (Daughter 1)
Nate J.
(oOO\ (|||)º(|||) /OOo)
Titanium Silver/Black Nappa Full 07-18-2001 E39 M5 Heritage (BZ99672). 198,000mi+. Increasing daily. Engine rebuild thread.
(eŌō\ (||||)º(||||) / ōŌe)
Alpineweiss III/Black Merino Full 03-26-2007 E60 M5 Manual (CX08265). 157,000+. Dead starter -_-
RIP, Seabiscuit. Black Sapphire/Schwarz 03-11-2003 530iA Sport (CK39185). T-boned 03-01-2017 at 155,861mi.
Take 2 "Otto" - Toledo Blue/Sandbeige 04-25-2002 530iA Sport (CH98032). Sold 11-10-2017 at 147,743mi.
Take 3 "Manuel" - Toledo Blue/Grau 10-29-2001 530i5 Sport (CE92358). Sold 02-01-2019 at 217,600mi. I regret that. Build Log
Reliable P.O.S. - Green/gray 1995 Camry V6 LE. 270k mi. Sold for space.
The lining goes in before the glass goes in.
Yes, all the cables work the same.
I take the cable out of the motor, pull the inner all the way out, take the fitting off the outer, cut the outer slightly shorter, refit and glue on the fitting, reinsert the inner and then refit the cable to the motor.
So I took off the MAF and filter box. Got a piece of plastic, put some duct tape on the center. Fastened it down to intake boot with o-ring that holds maf. Cut a small hole through tape and shoved a length of hose in. Blew some smoke through it and there was my vacuum leak. From that point I just blew air through and held the hose while it leaked to verify. The CCV hose that connects to valve cover is not seated on the CCV...stupid twist fastener, not a snap on. I replaced the entire CCV with a cold weather kit before manual swap...the insulation makes it very snug so i cant fix it as-is without breaking it. Time to pull the intake manifold again...
Feels good to find it, and we are fixing to road trip the car 7 hours in just a few days.
UPDATE after getting manifold off:
Well i feel dumb now. The hose that was leaking was not the twist fastener. The hose to valve cover is a snap-on...but
...i installed the thing backwards so thats why it wouldnt seat on the CCV all the way. I wondered why it was so tight on the valve cover too...Live and learn. Its not broken or anything so just gonna flip it around and put the manifold back on.
Last edited by WBAD530i; 03-20-2019 at 11:16 PM.
Pretty clean for 181K! Starting to wonder if the guides were already done, looks like a new chain...
Last edited by RuskiE39; 03-21-2019 at 01:00 AM.
E39 WhatsApp Chat Gruppe
I acquired a scan tool from cramazon today (Autophix 7810) that, while isn't the FOXWELL NT510, looks pretty promising for future exploits....
Last edited by 1BlinkGone; 03-21-2019 at 03:32 AM.
98 540i 6, 525 whp, 120 mph 1/4, V3 Si S/C'er @16 psi, W/A I/C, Water/Meth, Supersprint Headers, HJS Cats, 3" Custom Exhaust, UUC Twin Disc, Wavetrac LSD, GC Coil Overs, Monoball TA, AEM FP, Aeromotive FPR, AEM Failsafe AFR/Boost, Style 65's w/275's, M5 Steering Box, Eibach Sways, M3 Shifter, Evans Coolant, 85 Deg Stat, PWM Fan, 10" Subs, B.A. speakers, Grom Aux/BT, Still Rolling as my DD!
Current Garage Highlights
2003 525iT TiSilver
2002 M5 TiSilver
1998 528i KASCHMIRBEIGE METALLIC (301) (Goldie)
Former Garage Highlights
2005 X5 4.8is
2004 325iTs (2x)
1973 Pantera L
1971 Dodge Dart Swinger "Lite Package"
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 340 Six Pack Alpine White
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 340 Six Pack GoManGo Green
1969 Road Runner 383
1968 Barracuda Formula S 340 Sea Foam Green
I had two very large stacks of receipts from the previous owner(s) but the guy that I purchased the vehicle off of "flipped" it so he didn't know the entire history of the car and I also did not see anything for receipts on guides.
I'll dig a little deeper later today when I start the VCG on the driver side. The upper timing cover looked really clean, like someone had taken it off and power washed it.
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Today I found the (mainly) driver's side front had been pelted with small rock damage. I did NOT hear this happen while driving it...pretty much the front bumper, hood, and even the leading front fenders in front of the wheel wells...and a few chips as far back as the driver's side read door. With e few exceptions they are small, like the tip of a ballpoint pen. I'm sickened, as the car was NOT like this 2 days ago and the paint was in immaculate condition for its age....it either happened on I80 or some nefarious type with a blower "cleaning" a parking lot....grr....WHY?
valiantly attempted to install an aftermarket temp sensor, while learning that thread sealing tape doesn't really work all that well.
Using an Auto Meter 2283 rad hose temp adapter. it's a decent piece. into it is threaded the temp sensor from a SPAL 195H wiring kit
I've been meaning to do this for months to make my spal puller fan fully functional, as in, not on all the time, only when the car's hot enough for it.
aftermarket temp sensor 1.jpg
It does thread but it's TIGHT. even with a ton of force i can only get like three threads in, with 5 exposed
Of course, like an idiot, i didn't seal the threads and it leaked noticeably on first start, whoops. drain some coolant and try that again but this time with thread sealing teflon tape!
aftermarket temp sensor 2.jpg
and to not take any chances, and because i don't have a vice, one of these situations to get as much torque as possible on that thing!
aftermarket temp sensor 3.jpg
since online there's some concern about losing ground by having the threads covered by tape, i left one thread exposed and used a volt meter for continuity afterwards, looks good
aftermarket temp sensor 4.jpg
but nope, still leaks. way less than before but enough to not be driveable for more than a few hundred miles without another few cups of coolant, you can see the little coolant bead right under the threads here:
aftermarket temp sensor 5.jpg
So i'm kinda stuck, internet wisdom points towards using permatex ultra black since it's real good at stopping liquids but is there something else i should be using instead?
Also the radiator hose adapter comes with this brass coupling nut thing BUT it has a narrow throat, and the bottom of the temp sensor is extremely wide, can't fit through it, so cant thread it on there
interestingly, teflon tape seemed to work in almost identical setups over here
https://forums.bimmerforums.com/foru...has-this-setup
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...coolant-sensor
Last edited by joekitch; 03-22-2019 at 03:01 AM.
Looking for an e39 Touring black carpet set, including the rear cargo cubbies and side sections!
ALSO looking for 540i 6speed manual transmission sets (2001+ pedals with switches, driveshaft, gearbox), for the 6speed swap! Probably not for a while....
GN92489
540i msport touring; jet black on grey
Progress Thread (general)
Progress thread (touring specific)
Yesterday I got the driver side valve cover all ready for removal, I also disconnected the driver side motor mount in preparation to lift the engine a tad so that I can inspect the header bolts and make sure they are torqued down fully. Before wrapping up the day I crawled underneath and visually confirmed that I can access at least (3) of the lower rear bolts from under the car which is some good news. One of the header heater plates did have to be removed but it was only held in place by 3 small screws and easily accessible to remove.
When I return home from work tonight I will remove the valve cover to get some extra clearance and proceed with checking all the bolts and then wrap up the VCG and that should be all the oil leaks for this ol M62TU (and exhaust leaks lawd willing). Then it's onto the power steering leak which appears to just be the crush washer at the pump end.
Last edited by RuskiE39; 03-22-2019 at 12:05 PM.
E39 WhatsApp Chat Gruppe
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