I had a quick question. Do you have to replace the timing chain when you replace the guides? My 740 has 161K miles on it and it may be making timing chain noise the the drivers side of the engine.
Thanks in Advance,
Barry
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...t=Timing+chain
I replaced mine 5500 miles later no issues. Changed mine at 160,000 miles
Inspect the chain for any rough edges due to running with bad guides. If it's nicked or gouged up, you should replace it. If not you can reuse the chain. Chances are it's fine since the chain is harder than than aluminum, but take a look.
I reused mine when I did the job on the car with 178k. Turned 187k yesterday.
On the other hand, if it would give you peace of mind, go ahead and replace it. Not talking major $ here.
I replaced mine simply because I was able to eBay my way into buy all three of the IWIS chains for under $60. They do wear but I'm really not are if its enough to matter given that a properly functioning hydraulic tensioner will take up the slack. As was stated above: inspect and decide for yourself. How are tha VANOS units? I recommend you strongly consider installing a rebuilt set before buttoning it all up.
"Let me tell you what Melba Toast is packin' right here, alright. We got 3:15 open differential with an M5 sway-bar outback, a 4.4 liter V-8 with Bosch sequential fuel injection, four cams, 32 valves, VANOS units using Beisan Systems seals, 10 to 1 pistons, a conservative 282 macht schnell horsepower, all planted to the earth with AC Schnitzer Type II Racing Wheels and Michelin PS2s at all four corners, an M5 rear sway-bar outback, and a Strong-Strut tower brace up front. We're talkin' some Deutschland muscle."
I agree with Kurt - do the vanos while you are in there, whether you rebuild them yourself, or buy them already rebuilt. Rebuilding them yourself is really easy. The Beisan procedure makes it seem tricky, but after doing it, it really was cake.
+2 on Kurt's statement on the Vanos gears. Would really suck to do all that work and still have a start up rattle. Secondly, I personally would replace all three chains, they do stretch over time. I replaced them all when I did mine and in checking out the chain differences the original were quite stretched in comparison to new. For ~ $60 in additional parts, it was a no brainer to me.
+1 on Vanos seal
I reused my chains at 177k
But I'm kicking myself for not doing the Vanos transmissions
2000 740i Sport
yes. the chain stretches over time.
Part # on these VANOS, please?
There are no official parts numbers for the Vanos seals, since BMW doesn't sell them. BMW would rather sell you a whole new Vanos unit for a bunch of money. Beisan Systems developed their technique and manufactures their own parts so that you can rebuild the Vanos yourself at home. Here's more info: http://www.beisansystems.com/procedu..._procedure.htm
Rebuilding the Vanos really isn't hard. I did it while sitting comfortably in my kitchen, pressing the Vanos was the only tricky part. I rebuilt the chain guides and Vanos on my 2001 540i. I got a new chain just in case, and it wasn't terribly expensive so I don't regret it. I had zero mechanical experience before doing the rebuild, and it turned out fine. If you can follow directions you can handle it.
1995 525i 5-speed - Thread
Wow, this is one heck of a write up. Thanks! I'm saving this
I did my chains and VANOS a few month ago. It was pretty easy actually. Only hitch was I used the timing tools to set the sensor wheels instead of the holes in the upper timing covers. I got P-codes and finally figured out that while the jigs are close, they don't account for the utc not being in the same exact location every time it is re-attatched. If the utc isn't exactly positioned perfectly, the location of the sensor will be different relative to the wheel. Resetting the wheels to the alignment holes in the utc's solved the problem and the car runs stronger and smoother that ever. Don't forget to do the oil pump chain while you're in there. Or at least re-tension it.
"I wish I grew up in the 50s when people could prosper." -sigtwenty
so what is the process using the timing chain covers?? does it line up with the pin hole on the wheel or one of the blades?
You can obtain rebuilt vanos gears from drvanos.com that uses the Beisan Systems seals. Very quick and efficient. I also used the GAS timing tools and instructions that got me exactly perfect the first time. Dr. Vanos also helps a lot with tips on setting the initial timing of the gears properly.
I know I must sound presumptous by asking this question BUT.....I'm mechanically inclined but I've never done anything like this before. I really want to do the work myself. Anyone on the WestCoast willing to take the time and help a fellow DIYer? My resources are limited up here.
- - - Updated - - -
Hey brother...do you know of anyone that would be willing to do this job?? I'm mechanically inclined but would love to learn.
Canadian or US west coast?
"Let me tell you what Melba Toast is packin' right here, alright. We got 3:15 open differential with an M5 sway-bar outback, a 4.4 liter V-8 with Bosch sequential fuel injection, four cams, 32 valves, VANOS units using Beisan Systems seals, 10 to 1 pistons, a conservative 282 macht schnell horsepower, all planted to the earth with AC Schnitzer Type II Racing Wheels and Michelin PS2s at all four corners, an M5 rear sway-bar outback, and a Strong-Strut tower brace up front. We're talkin' some Deutschland muscle."
Hello
I'm in Vancouver, Canada...its about two hours north of Seattle. But I'm willing to make the drive somewhere on the west coast to do some wrenching. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have a 2001 740IL Anthrazit Metallic with about 260,000 kms which equates to 165,000 miles I believe. I's been sitting for some time for the fear I have about the infamous Timing Chain Guides. I have lots of new parts that I want to replace at the same time; the Guides, Vanos upgrade repair kit from Beisan , belts and what not. I have family down in San Ramon but they don't know of any BMW gear heads in the area. I'd love to turn this into a wrenchfest and see my older brother and nephews. It's been three years since I visited last.
George
Agreed with the consensus in terms of rebuilding the vanos units. I used Dr. Vanos ( a vanos rebuild service out of Texas)-- which I regret. For the what he charged and his lack of communication, I wish I would've replaced them myself. When I did my timing chain guides, I replaced the chains and secondary chain tensioners too. In hindsight, I could've avoided replacing the chains and secondary chain tensioners ( but I dropped one and damaged it so I decided to play it safe by replacing both).
KRAWDADDY, if you want a good shop to do this for you I highly recommend DUDMD here on this forum. Dima is a supporting member and a sharp guy to boot (he owns a shop in Auburn, WA about 3 1/2 hour south of Vancouver, BC. I rented his timing tools to do the job myself because I wanted the challenge... But, I think his shop rate is very fair and I know he does good work.)
Ian White
Spokane, Washington
2001 740 Short M Sport, 225k miles
1999 Dodge 2500 Cummins, 196k miles
2000 VW Jetta TDi 5-Speed, 169K miles
There is a little screw plug on the front of each UTC. You use a dowel (or drill bit) of appropriate size through that hole and into the hole on the wheels, not one of the blades. The same hole as the jigs would use - yes the pin hole. Use a crowsfoot and torque to spec being sure to calculate up for the crowsfoot.
Last edited by JaxMustang50; 09-14-2015 at 10:32 AM.
"I wish I grew up in the 50s when people could prosper." -sigtwenty
Thank you Ian.....much appreciated. I'll send him a message.
I'm writing you because I'm hoping you can help me with an issue..
I just had my timing chain guides replaced and my car still rattles when cold on startup.
Has new everything, vanos solenoids, new style chain tensioner, etc.
I had it done by a BMW indy shop. 30 years in biz.
My question is, after having this work done, should I still have a cold start rattle? Thanks, Mike
One often overlooked part are the check valves in the heads directly beneath the Vanos solenoids. They hold oil from draining back out of the Vanos units. On higher mileage or
sludged up engines these can stick open, allowing oil to drain away. Rattle on cold start is noticed until oil pressure builds. Check your build receipt to see if they were included.
A simple procedure to replace them if not done.
Our higher mileage engines benefit from a higher viscosity oil, also. After the rebuild at 154K I had quick rattle at start and a flickering oil pressure light at idle in gear after full warm up.
An increase to 20w/50 Mobil One cured both concerns and brought the oil pressure up to specs.
Certainly the clearances are increased due to wear at the mileages we look at. Tough engines for sure.
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