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Thread: M70 Rebuild Thread.

  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by NevadaMike View Post
    Have you considered CO2 (Dry Ice) blasting? You should be able to find a place in the Bay Area. I've also found that regular old paint thinner (not lacquer thinner) does a pretty good job dissolving that carbon. Be sure to get the deodorized kind, you'll thank me.
    Ordered gasket remover, alot of guys use it to melt off carbon...

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by fursideup View Post
    That will be fun! I better clean off the pool table so you have a place to lay all those pistons, caps and bearings out.
    Thinking about it.. Don't want to go overboard with this rebuild, probably would make sense to open one up and take a look at the main bearings...
    Wolf has a point on taking the pistons out to soak them outside the block.

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmw528e11 View Post
    When you planning to do that? I might swing by on Saturday morning?
    It wont be this Saturday - I will let you know Dimitri
    84 E31 cylinders - 72 Running

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmw528e11 View Post
    When you planning to do that? I might swing by on Saturday morning?
    I think myself and Jon are busy this weekend, I will text you when we get ready to do it.
    Time is always the big issue...

  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by wokke View Post
    And yes Tim, the bolts are stretch bolts and I highly recommend to use quality bolts and not some super cheap "on sale" crap.
    Thanks Wolf, the reason I asked was due to the discussion on using studs - where stretch bolts are used you can't just swap over to studs as the correct compression of the head gasket relies on the stretch of the head bolts.......
    Timm..2007 E64 650i Individual Sport..1999 E31 840ci Individual Sport..ex owner of 2000 E38 740..1999 E38 740i V8 M62..1998 E38 735i V8..1993 E32 730i V8..1988 E28 518i


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  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by B10 BITURBO View Post
    I really recommend using studs,, thats my opinion,, it is an aluminum block,, i think can get studs that are almost the same dimension,, 10x110 is oem bolts

    here is a comparison,,,

    http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...0-1b/overview/
    The use of studs is a very wise suggestion. In racing where engines are taken down more frequently, studs are used almost exclusively. A much safer and more secure way to attach cylinder heads, and will prevent metal fatigue in the aluminum block. If you are a strong believer in overkill, then ARPs chrome moly connecting rod bolts are worth considering as well. Don't you think Timm, if you torque the head bolts (or studs) by slow degrees in correct sequence,
    the gaskets will be compressed correctly? What do you think Wolf?
    Last edited by garylafortuna; 09-10-2015 at 03:57 PM.

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by garylafortuna View Post
    The use of studs is a very wise suggestion. In racing where engines are taken down more frequently, studs are used almost exclusively. A much safer and more secure way to attach cylinder heads, and will prevent metal fatigue in the aluminum block. If you are a strong believer in overkill, then ARPs chrome moly connecting rod bolts are worth considering as well. Don't you think Timm, if you torque the head bolts (or studs) by slow degrees in correct sequence,
    the gaskets will be compressed correctly? What do you think Wolf?
    Why fix something that's not broken, this is the first time I heard someone saying the threads gave up on an M70 block, actually it was M73. Wolf did say he did 10 engines and NONE had a problem with threads giving up, several had broken head bolts, but those were original bolts I believe. Plus ARP studs are $10 bucks EA. That's $280 just for the bolts. My Victor Reinz head bolts were only $48.

  7. #32
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    Do what Wolf says above and pull the pistons. At this point, you ought to pull everything and have the block hot tanked - that's the best way to clean everything off.
    Also make damned sure you keep track of exactly where everything came from and in which direction
    Forget about head studs, make sure your threads are clean and there is nothing in the holes - then use quality bolts.

  8. #33
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    Head gaskets and head bolts just arrived.


    ForumRunner_20150910_190008.png

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by dragon850 View Post
    Head gaskets and head bolts just arrived.


    ForumRunner_20150910_190008.png
    Great, Now just don't get in a hurry, and as Cartoonz said keep meticulous track of everything, especially cam followers.

  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikekugel View Post

    Great, Now just don't get in a hurry, and as Cartoonz said keep meticulous track of everything, especially cam followers.
    Will do... I thought rocker arms are interchangeable, same design?

  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by dragon850 View Post
    ....
    I will remove Cylinders for soaking and look at the bearings.
    Better remove the pistons. If you remove the cylinders the block is destroyed.

    - - - Updated - - -

    BTW, have you ever considered taking the chance for a M73 upgrade? Used M73 should be dirt cheap in the US and it's really worth it.
    All you actually need is the M73 block incl. it's internals. You can even keep your M70 heads and probably end up at about 340HP due to the slightly hooter cam shafts of the M70.
    And if you go for Schrick cams and a customized engine mapping CSi power is possible.



  12. #37
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    Unfortunately Dragon850 already bought an M70 (i think)..
    $700 in LA and $660 in Texas..


    Wokke, just M73 block with internals, but keeping the exterior parts from M70? what about pcv system, valve covers, and intakes? and what you meant about 'slightly hooter cams'?

  13. #38
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    everything from the headgasket upwards can be used from the M70. And some bits and pieces HAVE to be used from the M70 like timing chain cover and flywheel.

    M70B54 picture thread (lots of pictures)

    Cam data comparison
    Last edited by wokke; 09-11-2015 at 02:24 AM.



  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by wokke View Post
    everything from the headgasket upwards can be used from the M70. And some bits and pieces HAVE to be used from the M70 like timing chain cover and flywheel. M70B54 picture thread (lots of pictures)

    Cam data comparison
    Wolf. Dragon has a supercharger so I guess a m70 is better

  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fatandre View Post
    Wolf. Dragon has a supercharger so I guess a m70 is better
    Oops, I didn't realitze that. I fully agree, M70 is the way to go for FI.



  16. #41
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    I'm all for anything "slightly hooter"....

  17. #42
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    Got almost everything parts wise, now where do I find time to install all of this?!

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  18. #43
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    Heads are off to the local machine shop for cleaning, resurfacing, valve job, new valve guides and seals.

  19. #44
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    Subscribed.

  20. #45
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    I am planning to tackle the same project. Should be good experience. I will also be ready if my supercharger stresses my motor. I will follow your thread.

  21. #46
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    Rockers, basis and hydraulic lifters after ultrasonic cleaning. The lifters will not be reused, I purchased a whole new set. One of the rockers has a wavy pattern on it and will be replaced.

    ForumRunner_20150927_194507.png

    Heads are still in the shop.
    Last edited by dragon850; 09-27-2015 at 10:47 PM.

  22. #47
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    Dragon, Any updates? whats the forecast of your 8 running?

  23. #48
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    Heading out to the machine shop to pick up my reworked heads!
    Will update with pics!


    Quote Originally Posted by bmw528e11 View Post
    Dragon, Any updates? whats the forecast of your 8 running?

  24. #49
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  25. #50
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    For us looking to do something like this for our hybrids rebuild, what does something like this cost? Ball park is fine.
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    11 e90 328i Space Gray
    18 F15 X5 35i XDrive White

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    00 e38 740 i (Auto) Titanium Silver
    94 e31 840 Ci (6 speed conv.) Avus Blau (This car was Awesome!)
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