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Thread: TPM question again- sorry

  1. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
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    Aberdeen, NC (yes, again)
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    E39M5, E500 4WD
    If the part actually comes from a dealership, it USUALLY has a BMW part number on it somewhere. Often, that's printed as a SEVEN digit number, without the first 4 (3610 in this case). (Realoem recognizes 7 digit numbers, and will provide the 11 digit number which other (supplier) websites will recognize.

    To best utilize realoem for such a quest, you punch in the last seven digits of your VIN, then you look up the part, then you click on the part number shown in blue. This will take you to the part description, and it will show any superceding which has been done.

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  2. #27
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    United States
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    2010 BMW 328i
    Quote Originally Posted by dworthy View Post
    When there is such a big list, it can be confusing, just stick with the newest one available.

    So the key here is that you can use all of the ones listed except for 846, that is non exchangeable. I am sure you are wonder why so many different P/N? Well as BMW figures out that one doesn't work or there is a design flaw, they make a newer version. Well it seems with this RDC module, it took 10 times to get it right!
    Darin,
    You are absolutely right: stick with the latest version. That's why I bought it from the dealer. But the weird thing is that these p/ns doesn't match any number marked on the real RDC. So, when you look at a real RDC, you can't figure out what the p/n is. But you mentioned: it took 10 times to get it right! This worries me a little bit. I haven't got my new RDC programmed yet. It is scheduled on next Monday. When I bought the RDC at dealer, I asked guy were many people buy this? He said not from this counter, mostly the service department technician used it. So, this TPMS problem seems quite common, but most car owners just let dealer do it, not DIY type. To assemble the connector needs some patient and experience, though. Fortunately, I have done lot of electronics stuff, so it wasn't difficult for me at all.

  3. #28
    dworthy's Avatar
    dworthy is offline Wagon meister :) BMW Tech Expert
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
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    Grafenwoehr, Germany
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    16 220i 05 325it 05 M3
    That can be the manufacturer's part number. There has been times where I have seen different numbers on parts that didn't show up on the parts catalog.
    Darin
    Current:
    16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
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    M-Flight Member

  4. #29
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    United States
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    13
    My Cars
    2010 BMW 328i
    Quote Originally Posted by bmwdirtracer View Post
    If the part actually comes from a dealership, it USUALLY has a BMW part number on it somewhere. Often, that's printed as a SEVEN digit number, without the first 4 (3610 in this case). (Realoem recognizes 7 digit numbers, and will provide the 11 digit number which other (supplier) websites will recognize.

    To best utilize realoem for such a quest, you punch in the last seven digits of your VIN, then you look up the part, then you click on the part number shown in blue. This will take you to the part description, and it will show any superceding which has been done.
    Chris,
    Thanks so much. You are right! The p/n does marked on the RDC. What confused me was it doesn't include the leading digits 3610. That answers my question. I'm happy now. My new RDC has a large number 6 868 194-02, which matches the dealer p/n once 3610 is added. The -02 I guess is a second design of that version, miner change.

  5. #30
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    United States
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    13
    My Cars
    2010 BMW 328i
    Wow, I just looked at my old bad RDC with the guideline Chris provided and it is just the odd one, which is "Nonexchangeable retrospectively". I'm not sure if this will cause any problem during programming. Let's see.

  6. #31
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    St. Joseph, Mo.
    Posts
    3,000
    My Cars
    95 m3+, 03 ZHP, Mk4 Tdi
    it won't be an issue - parts are revised constantly - all the time. shouldn't be any big deal. the tech will click yes a few times on a screen and that should be it...
    '95 325iS - auto to manual swap done!

  7. #32
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    United States
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    13
    My Cars
    2010 BMW 328i
    Murphy's law! So, totally frustrated! The local BMW specialized guy total me: There was still no communication with my new RDC!!! There seems to be some other problem. He recommend me to go to a bmw dealer. And he said if the problem is isolated and I let them to the job, they still need to get a new RDC from dealer. That means all the $$ I spent went to sewer line. I don't think I should go to dealer at this moment. I need to take some time to think. I've been doing electronic for decades. I know if I let the dealer fix it at beginning at $900, they would have come back to me saying "there were more problems (and sure more $$)". So, here is the fact everyone should know: when you spend money to ask someone to diagnose your car, they don't guarantee the result is correct. The issue finally can become uncontrollable! Especially, if the problem is in some electronics. Nowadays, electronics stuff is a real mess, where software and hardware problems tangled together. Unfortunately, electronic is used more and more now. I met a lady at that garage. Her car has a problem with I-drive display. She told me dealer said it was not fixable and had to replace the whole module at $4000+. That is how dealer do: replace, replace, replace!!! Actually, I had some clue on the problem of my car. When I disassembled the broken connector, I saw that the corrosion caused shorting between the +5v pin and the other pin which is either signal-in or signal-out. This shorting may hurt the circuit on both sides: the computer in the car or the RDC. But I don't like this "guess", because based on my knowledge, the circuits in signal-in and signal-out should be able to stand with +5v. So, the other possibility is the guy did the job for my car were not very good at it or their instrument was compatible with my car, some version problems or ....Anyway, I need to think what will be my next move. Thanks for listening my story.

  8. #33
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    United States
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    13
    My Cars
    2010 BMW 328i
    Finally got RDC programmed at a dealer. The major problem was the corroded connector shorted the +12v and blew out a 5A fuse, F-27. Once the new fuse was installed, RDC responded properly and could be programmed.
    TPMS RDC of 2010 and 2011 328i is very different from those in 2009 or earlier. In the cars made in 2010 and 2011, there is no trigger module in each wheel well. There is only one RDC, which has antenna in it, that directly talk to 4 wheels. So, the new TPMS is much simpler than old one. This new RDC has 4 pins, in which pin 2 (red/blue wire) is for +12v and from fuse F27. Make sure that fuse is good before trying program a new RDC, and pin 1 and 3 are data lines to a bus, pin 4 is ground.

  9. #34
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Seneca, SC
    Posts
    9
    My Cars
    2019 X5 40i, 2012 X5 35i
    Perhaps this RDC repair video will help someone viewing this thread: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Vu7GTFcZjU&t=26s

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