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Thread: 93' E36 325is 5.0!!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
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    1993 325is

    93' E36 325is 5.0!!

    Alrighty, got my conversion kit from the UPS man today. Turned around and ordered my poly mounts from RevShift right after. The 325 was already being prepped for an LS swap when I bought it. The guy ended up finding an old C10 to put the LS into. So I lucked out with a car that the engine bay was already stripped, wires tucked or wrapped and painted. Tranny tunnel banged out a bit for easier swapping another transmission in. All gauges, electric seats and windows function. Have to get code for radio, and speakers. Interior is the tan leather, a little rough but believe can be stitched and cleaned up decently. Have '98 Explorer 5.0 GT40 heads at shop, converting to carb. Little wilder then stock cam goin in, 1.6 roller rockers, new springs, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake and old Weber 4brl toppin it off. Believe I will swap the headers around and go both dumping forward. May go and speak to local exhaust shop first and get their take, and $$ estimate. This is a BUDGET build. Lookin to be under $3k to get it road ready. More money will go into it over time, mostly cosmetics. Question, has anyone done side exhaust, like just after front wheels? Was thinkin do front dump into y pipe, 3" pipe outta side after passenger front wheel. Feasible?

  2. #2
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    Thinkin fumes in cabin could be an issue, how bout just before rear passenger tire?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    1995 318is with a 95 5.0
    The cheapest way to do the exhaust is to take two passenger side headers to the stock exhaust. Run the header on the driver’s side around the front of the engine to the stock cats. The passenger side header ends 8" from where the stock exhaust would connect to the stock cats. You’re going to have to get a crappy manifold to fit a carb under the e36 hood, not much room for a decent manifold or air cleaner. I spent $3k for my build including the car purchase but I did all the work myself.

  4. #4
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    Thanks man. Kinda just throwing thoughts n ideas out there. There is no stock exhaust on car still. So will be starting totally from scratch with the exhaust system. So was thinking money wise, front dumps wouldnt be noticably more expensive, and seems like finding a regular set of shorties would be easier then finding 2 passenger ones seperately.

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    So far im doin pretty well with the budget. I originally had a '78 LTD I picked up for $200. Pulled the motor and tranny, then parted some stuff out. Made my $200 back, plus enough to cover the Explorer motor and the 325 roller body. So only money out of pocket are the conversion kit, poly mounts and some cash to the builder for the work on the motor.

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    Using the Edelbrock Performer RPM manifold. May have to go with some hood cutting and a cowl.

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    Would be nice if I was able to do more at house, but we are out in the country, no concrete or flat surfaces. Pulling motor outta LTD was interesting. Had plywood under car for the hoist to sit on, outside and it started raining, but wasnt in a good position to stop pulling. That told me doin any major work wasnt gonna happen here.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
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    '97 M3/4/5.0
    If you have to do side exhausts, run them to the front of the rear tires. Many states have this as a legal requirement because you don't want exhaust entering the passenger compartment. Also, if you dump behind the front tires you lose ground clearance and don't have much room for mufflers, and you need mufflers. Open headers are too loud, sound terrible, and are a nuisance to those around you, not to mention damaging to your own hearing.

    There are places to save money and then there are things to do correctly from the start. The chassis is designed for the exhaust to be routed a certain way to exit out the rear. If you go with any other configuration, you're giving up ground clearance and you'll end up smashing the exhaust on speed bumps.

  6. #6
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    Very true. Like I said, just throwin some ideas out there. Im sure every possible mod has been tried and tested, so hoping to benefit from everyone elses trial n errors!!

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    Ugh, the other radiator I have is in no way going to fit. Read on JTR they state that the stock 6cyl radiator, with a good fan, will work just fine. Suggested a Volvo 2 speed fan. Has anyone used this combo?

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    I have the stock radiator in place (it has a sticker on it dated 2008, so I know it's not original). I got a two speed electric fan from a Volvo at the junkyard and replaced the stock (dead) electric fan. I set it up for the fan to come on at 200 degF and turn off at 190 degF, no trouble in 80 to 90 degree weather this summer.

  8. #8
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    Awesome! Read that the hoses need to be "spliced" together, the bmw radiator hose to the 5.0 hoses?

  9. #9
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    I went to the auto parts store knowing the shape of hoses that I need. They let me behind the counter to dig through their radiator hoses and find what I needed. I ended up picking out a couple of hoses that I coupled up with the 5.0 hoses using some aluminum tubing.






  10. #10
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    You da man!!!

  11. #11
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    Here's the aluminum tubing I used. I made a tool using a set of vice grips to add a lip to the tube so that the hoses wouldn't blow off.


  12. #12
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    Talked to builder Friday, he has the 5.0 pulled apart. Said internals look really good. Truck it came outta was a 98' with 108k miles, but its a GT40 not a GT40P motor, so as some have said was probably a replaced motor. Looks like much less miles. So he will be doin cam, Edelbrock Performer intake, Weber carb, 1.6 rollers. Then its time to put some $$ towards tranny rebuild. I know my shop guy knows, but im curious, since goin carbed and C4(hush yall!) The only wiring involved will be battery to starter, and ignition to motor correct? Of course block grounds. Speedo is tied into rear I believe, and all other internals are already connected. Will be doin aftermarket tach.

  13. #13
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    '00 540 6.0/4L80e/S480
    Quote Originally Posted by schwerdt1 View Post
    Talked to builder Friday, he has the 5.0 pulled apart. Said internals look really good. Truck it came outta was a 98' with 108k miles, but its a GT40 not a GT40P motor, so as some have said was probably a replaced motor. Looks like much less miles. So he will be doin cam, Edelbrock Performer intake, Weber carb, 1.6 rollers. Then its time to put some $$ towards tranny rebuild. I know my shop guy knows, but im curious, since goin carbed and C4(hush yall!) The only wiring involved will be battery to starter, and ignition to motor correct? Of course block grounds. Speedo is tied into rear I believe, and all other internals are already connected. Will be doin aftermarket tach.
    Making progress! Have you considered using a tach adapter? Dakota digital makes a box that will translate the signal from the engine to whatever the cluster is expecting. Keep up the good work.

  14. #14
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    You're probably better off with the non-P heads, that gives you way more header options, and non-P heads with good headers will make more power than P-heads with crappy headers.

    You'll want to wire up the oil pressure switch and alternator warning light to your gauge cluster.

  15. #15
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    I have seen the Dakota box mentioned before, only like $60 I believe, may have to go that route. The oil and alt, yes good thinkin. Im sure he will discuss those, im just trying to get idea of all that will be goin on. Thanks again. And I have a bid on some FlowTech headers on ebay!.

  16. #16
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    My engine came with the p heads. That's a reason why I was thinking of doing custom long tube headers

  17. #17
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    Long tube, would you have to do a steering swap? Would think be too long for one to dump front.

  18. #18
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    You can make some room by swapping in an E46 steering shaft and relocating the ABS unit to in front of the wheel well. Check out some LS builds to see how those guys do it, most of them run long tube headers.

  19. #19
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    Oh yeah, the poly mounts from RevShift showed other day. Small compared to the stock rubber mounts.

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    http://imgur.com/a/8rj4s

  20. #20
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  21. #21
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    Imgur gives you a link on the right side with the "img" tags for forums, if you copy and paste that text the images will show up inline!


    Last edited by Laminar; 08-25-2015 at 10:03 AM.

  22. #22
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    Ah!! I'll learn... Thanks biggen!!

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    Ha! Got it

  23. #23
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    Went by builders shop, got the full intake system from the GT40 motor, using some Purple Cleaner on it, and posting to craigslist. Dropped off the conversion kit and poly mounts while I was there.

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  24. #24
    Join Date
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    I need a better manifold. I have the stock mustang manifold

  25. #25
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    The Explorer and Cobra are basically same intake system. Suppose to be a step up from the stock Mustang set-up. Hopefully someone on ebay/craigslist hits me up soon, then can put that money back into this build.
    Looks like we are goin custom grind cam for it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ponchiz318 View Post
    I need a better manifold. I have the stock mustang manifold
    Don't you have Explorer motor? Should be the GT40 set up, which is better then Mustang intake.

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