It should work with no issues.You`ll...soon..enjoy..smooth..acceleration. .again!Originally Posted by I have found the above mentioned 3/5/7 Series Pedal Module for sale for $70, so I might try this route instead (and maybe also get better throttle response in the deal). All the parts are also available at ECS Tuning.
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it will be even quicker with Sprint Booster
https://www.ecstuning.com/News/BMW_S...ooster_E31F01/
2000 740i Sport
2000 740i Sport
I ended up purchasing (ebay, $41 w/ shipping) a used/tested 'E46 M Accelerator Pedal Assembly' including mounting base and a wire pigtail (looks about 12-18 inches long or so), so I'll just need to to cut the other connector / wire pigtail from my spare (old style) Potentiometer and solder / shrink wrap the two pigtails together and I should be good to go...
The Pedal is due to arrive early next week so once I try this out I will post my results.
If all goes well I will also post on the Z3 forum with a link to here for those 'drive-by-wire' Z3 owners (the 3.0 M54B30 engine 2001/2002, should also work on Z3 M models with the S54 engine I would think).
Last edited by wfidrock; 03-24-2017 at 12:34 PM.
Well I got a e39 pedal in today and also the base. Now I just need to find the pigtail. I can get started.
right on, please report back
get..cutting..then,lol
the hard part? is getting the old pedal off the carpet...I sweated tears trying to get it off...Not much room to get the angle and View...
remember theres a lever to flap open then u have to stick 2( BENT )Flatheads inward from the back to DISLODGE it from the Floor board metal welded mount..How did I finally get it off? I sliced the Pedal off from base and then removed the BASE that was stuck on for dear life, lol
55536_x800.jpgIMG_4857.jpgIMG_4858.jpg
2000 740i Sport
What a timely update! I've have an occasional engine failsafe due to the throttle potentiometer in my 99 e38. I was going to the junkyard anyway today, so I checked the inventory online and they have a correct year X5 in the yard (they also had a 04 3 series, too.) I got the pedal assembly, the base plate, the bolt, the wiring harness, and went to a 2000 e38 I knew they had in there, so I chopped the wiring harness off of it's potentiometer while I was there. That way I still have mine intact just in case. Getting the pedal assembly off the base plate was easy, if you remember you need to pry the tab twice because there are two sets of catches. Getting the base plate off the floor, that was a little more difficult since no one mentioned it was a problem! Then I didn't realize how well an X5 carpet is molded to the floor and I forgot to bring a knife with me to cut it, so it took a bit of time to get the harness out of there. I think I'll like the operation of the pedal better, much better feedback at the end of the pedal travel.
So I'm mostly done with this 'mod', but a shower is passing through, so I'll add some thoughts here. The hardest part so far seems to be removing the old gas pedal. There are three tabs holding it in, The center one does most of the holding, I found it easiest to pry up the front lip of the pedal, and push the tab back from the front of the pedal. I was then able to pull from side to side to get it free.
I soldered the harness connector from a junkyard car so I didn't have to cut the wiring on my car. As noted in the initial write up post, the colors on the new potentiometer don't match the wire colors on the old potentiometer. However, they do match the wiring colors on the car side of the harness connector. Since I chopped the entire connector from the parts car, it was easy to match up the wires. I've already tested the pedal in the car, seems to work fine, no error messages, and no coding required, either.
Last edited by ConvGeorge; 03-28-2017 at 07:07 PM.
Just took it out for a test spin, I like it better already. I can actually predict when it's going to downshift now. It was always sorta a guess before.
Last edited by ConvGeorge; 03-28-2017 at 07:08 PM.
As for getting the old pedal free - I found (at least on my Z3) that you can use a screwdriver (or other like instrument) to push down (compress) the carpet/padding enough to see the tabs as they 'hold' onto the metal base plate. I used one hand to compress carpet with a screwdriver and the other hand to push the plastic tab and free it from the base plate (although a bit tricky to keep one tab from re-locking while working on the tab on the other end, took a few tries).
For anyone looking to do this mod on a Z3 (with 3.0 M54B30 and fly-by-wire):
I completed this pedal mod on my 2001 Z3 3.0i roadster - only issue is that the metal base plate on the floor is at a slight angle compared to the bolt hole (where pedal stop was, and now used to hold pedal bracket). This means that the pedal bracket is bending/twisting slightly to slide down over the metal floor plate while also being bolted further up the bracket. I tightened the bolt first, then slid the pedal assembly onto the bracket and THEN twisted and pushed the bottom of the bracket down onto the base plate on the floor.
I will investigate a little further when I get a chance, and look at how the base plate mounts to the floor. Carpet was blocking my view but it kinda looked like maybe the base plate had studs running down into / through the floor. A quick glance under the vehicle at this spot revealed a cover plate that I would have to remove to investigate further. If indeed the base plate is not welded to the floor, and instead bolted, then it should be possible to drill new hole(s) and align the base plate better with the bolt location used to bolt the bracket to the floor.
Unfortunately, for me, upgrading to the new pedal did not solve my issue with the engine cutting out...
I have changed out the throttle body with a new unit and the pedal with a used upgrade but I still get an intermittent issue at steady speed where the engine cuts out for 1/2 a second or so, repeatedly. I was getting (before swap of pedal and throttle body) a 'plausibility' code error on the accelerator pedal - I will drive the car some more and then check if I am still getting the same codes or something new.
Thanks cazal for posting this, I just completed this upgrade, it's a nice improvement
E85 fueled, Eaton m112 supercharged 4.5L M62TU, TTV racing flywheel, Spec stage 2+ clutch, 88c thermostat, eibach sway bars, wavetrac 3.15 lsd, m5 steering box, Quantum 340lph fuel pump, Dinan camber plates, some powerflex bushings, Supersprint headers, M5 cats, 2001 gas pedal upgrade and many other things done. all diy by me
Hi guys,
Does anyone have the wiring colours to the pin assignments in the 6 pin plug that connects to the accelerator. I have done the mod and followed wiring exactly but have engine failsafe mode coming up. Only item I can't verify is the plug to the pedal - from a salvage yard.
Failing that anyone have the pin to action allocation, i.e pin 1 = pot 1 +, pin 4 = pot 1 -.
My pin assigments/colours are:
1. Brown/Green trace
2. Brown/Blue trace
3. Yellow/Blue trace
4. White/Green trace
5. Yellow/Green trace
6. White/Blue trace
Thanks in advance guys.
Dale
All good now guys, process of elimination works wonders.
This mod is freaking awesome! I can't believe the differance out of the hole. My wifes 525i has always been snappy off idle. When I pulled out of the driveway the first time the traction control kicked in. Everyone should do this mod, its better than a 3.15 diff.
Getting the old pedal out of the floor was a PITA. I cut the pedal off and dug the darn thing out with a screwdriver. I got confused with wiring but Calzul was right on. The colors for the for the new pedal (mine came out of an X3) match the colors on the car not on the old pedal wiring. Confirmed in the Bentley's manual. When you grab the new pedal out of the wrecking yard get all the wire that you can. I had to solder in about 18" because I cut mine to short.
01' 750il Chromeline
95 M3 LS swapped
07 M5 Manual
06' M5, Spartan wheels and a 507hp V10
00' 740il Dinan, CAI, Romulus exhaust, Stage 5 engine and transmission tune, 750 brakes, camber plates, strut tower brace. Sold
00' 323i wagon for daughter
03' 525i wagon for the wife, sold
98' 740i for the daughter, wrecked
92' 525i with over 200k, wrecked
02' R1200 CLC, hit by a bus and broken in half. That one made the news!
It's like herpes there is no cure but if treated properly you can live with it for the rest of your life
The pedal removal is one of those "not so hard once you see whats inside after the fact and you know what you're trying to do 'blind', but seems impossible when you haven't done it before" kinda things. I've done it numerous times but if too much time goes by I always have to go remind myself how the clip/groove/etc system works.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
BTW the comments about connections needing to be solid are all spot on but I'd also say that doesn't necessarily mean solder splices.
Fully agree that the cheapo hardware store crimp connectors are no good (well OK I use them for non-critical crap but... not here...), but, there are absolutely types of high-quality crimp butt connectors that make super high quality connections - aviation spec is for crimped connectors not solder by the way, so that gives you an indicator that some of the best connections can be made by crimps.
The 'good ones' aren't a stamped thin little crappy shell of metal inside a crappy inflexible PVC sleeve, but are a solid tube (or at least a brazed-seam tube that is effectively a solid tube) which you crimp down on the wire. Totally different than the hardware store crap.
They are fantastic, I love these things, esp when combined with a good heat shrink covering. Definitely can be as good or better than solder connections, without the flux/solder/melting-stuff issues. When you have to do stuff in the car where soldering is a PITA or near impossible, this is the way to go. Once you get down with them, you might find you use them a lot more than that too...
Some examples:
These are the 'bare' basic ones, you can use your own heat-shrink on top...
https://www.delcity.net/store/Non!In...01870.h_801871
Step-down versions that are excellent for mating 2 different sized wires...
https://www.delcity.net/store/Non!In...01887.h_801888
These have integral heat-shrink... I use these a lot...
https://www.delcity.net/store/Heat-S...05404.h_801795
Some that come with heat shrink that you slip over the crimp after its done...
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...esAWG16-12.php
These look "cool", no heat required, might have to get some...
https://www.delcity.net/store/Cool!S...02081.h_801718
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
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