1997 840 Build Thread

[toomanyparts]

Small reversible modifications on the inside (radio/console/cruise stalk delete - buttons work), some preventive rustproofing and the grand rear glass sticker.
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I ended up ripping out a majority of the rotted factory sound deadening and using a mass loaded vinyl, closed cell foam, butyl/aluminum tile approach all around the car (except dash and floors). Car is very quiet at speed now and no rattles.

[toomanyparts]

Oh and the engine bay got a little clean up.

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[dragon850]

Just read the thread from the start, did not realize you have gone in such detail when restoring your 840, now I got to see it in person. Hopefully soon!
Car looks amazing!

[toomanyparts]

Thanks Ed. Lot of stuff I didn't post (can't link to Google Photos). Has been a labor of love.

Can't wait to meet you and see your vehicles.

[olinjohnston]

Here is the car back from nearly 18 months with the painter.

-___-

[72tpik5]

Wow! Serious attention to detail. Well done.

[toomanyparts]

Wow! Serious attention to detail. Well done.

Thank you. I try.

[Mike in CT]

Great job!

[SteveCT]

Curious as to why you didn't do the floors with the soundproofing, or how you determined it wasn't necessary.

[toomanyparts]

Curious as to why you didn't do the floors with the soundproofing, or how you determined it wasn't necessary.

I did not feel like pulling the seats. I will probably get around to it when I pull the dash for the heater core. The carpet pad is pretty thick, so I may just focus on the firewall and the center console area.

It's a lot of work just doing the main panels and rear.

[SteveCT]

I did not feel like pulling the seats. I will probably get around to it when I pull the dash for the heater core. The carpet pad is pretty thick, so I may just focus on the firewall and the center console area.

It's a lot of work just doing the main panels and rear.

Your car looks terrific, and I find it to be inspirational!

About to replace a headliner, and while its out was thinking about using some of Sound Deadener Showdown's CLD tiles on the roof, not that I think it is particularly a problem source, but acoustics are funny. Any thoughts?

[toomanyparts]

Your car looks terrific, and I find it to be inspirational!

About to replace a headliner, and while its out was thinking about using some of Sound Deadener Showdown's CLD tiles on the roof, not that I think it is particularly a problem source, but acoustics are funny. Any thoughts?

Thanks, I actually got most of my inspiration from MikeinCT. SDS is the the place to get your stuff - I found that out later. I used a small CLD tile on the headliner in the center itself right behind the sunroof opening since it is much stiffer after the epoxy resin. I also used a small amount of CCF on the backside of the headliner where it comes in contact with the body at the edges.

The big issue with the roof is simply the sunroof itself - you will get some wind noise and there is not much you can do about that. I have seen people use hydrophobic foam in that area as it is light and easily affixed.

In hindsight, I would have done the entire roof sheet metal itself with at least 30-40% coverage (in the recessed areas). I was afraid of causing paint issues with how hot the roof gets on a black car already and did not want any issues with the sunroof getting jammed. There was nothing there from the factory except a couple foam bits at the edges and some foam tape around the visor areas. It is pretty structurally sound, but the metal is fairly thin so keep that in mind if you press anything in place.

When you put your headliner in, make sure you get the rear properly inserted in the slot below the back glass. This was a pain on mine as it wanted to sit above the slot in the recess between the back glass, which means it would not line up right with the runroof opening.

[SteveCT]

Thanks, I actually got most of my inspiration from MikeinCT. SDS is the the place to get your stuff - I found that out later. I used a small CLD tile on the headliner in the center itself right behind the sunroof opening since it is much stiffer after the epoxy resin. I also used a small amount of CCF on the backside of the headliner where it comes in contact with the body at the edges.

The big issue with the roof is simply the sunroof itself - you will get some wind noise and there is not much you can do about that. I have seen people use hydrophobic foam in that area as it is light and easily affixed.

In hindsight, I would have done the entire roof sheet metal itself with at least 30-40% coverage (in the recessed areas). I was afraid of causing paint issues with how hot the roof gets on a black car already and did not want any issues with the sunroof getting jammed. There was nothing there from the factory except a couple foam bits at the edges and some foam tape around the visor areas. It is pretty structurally sound, but the metal is fairly thin so keep that in mind if you press anything in place.

When you put your headliner in, make sure you get the rear properly inserted in the slot below the back glass. This was a pain on mine as it wanted to sit above the slot in the recess between the back glass, which means it would not line up right with the runroof opening.

Thanks for the tip.

Do you have any prior experience with sound-dampening materials like Dynamat? I used that on a couple of different projects 10-15 years ago, and it wasn't that great. The materials you used certainly sound more advanced and more effective.

[toomanyparts]

Thanks for the tip.

Do you have any prior experience with sound-dampening materials like Dynamat? I used that on a couple of different projects 10-15 years ago, and it wasn't that great. The materials you used certainly sound more advanced and more effective.

Dynamat/Hushmat/etc. are no different than the SDS CLD tiles - butyl with a layer of aluminum. The SDS stuff is just the best quality you can get and does not have a marketing budget to cover, so it is priced lower than the competition.

You basically have three weapons - CLD tiles to deaden large panels by changing resonance. CCF (closed cell foam) to decouple panels from once another. Finally, MLV (mass loaded vinyl) to block road noise. Typically you are looking at a CLD coverage from 30-100% followed by a layer of CCF and finally some MLV. Not every area of the car will be treated the same or with all three in my experience. Structurally braced areas generally do not get much benefit from the CLD.

It takes a bit more planning than sticking CLD tiles across every surface, but it will make a difference. My goal for CLD was more for heat insulation. The MLV is expensive but makes the biggest difference. My focus was on the rear quarter panels, deck and trunk area - probably the worst areas of the car as far as noise. The original stuff was rotting away, so I did not have much of choice as I ripped it all out. I also put a small patch of CLD on the back of each speaker enclosure. I am happy with the results.

You can probably do the whole car for less than $500 with reasonable results. I added maybe 30 lbs to the car in total.

You can read up more here: https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.co...rea-treatments

[SteveCT]

Many Thanks!

--Steve

[toomanyparts]

Many Thanks!

--Steve

No problem. If I did it again, I would probably just use the CLD tiles and hydrophobic melamine foam in the doors. The MLV is great for the rear shelf, trunk and the rear wheel well areas. The SDS CCF is nice because it has the adhesive right on it. Would not dare use an spray on products similar to undercoating.

[SteveCT]

Appreciate these tips as well!

S

[toomanyparts]

When I had the car stripped, I went ahead and redid the wiring harness for the trunk lights by crimping in a new section of wiring with a new sheath. Here is the end result of everything all patched up.
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Still working on fixing a few things. Car has to go back to the paint shop for them to correct a few issues. Leveled out the trunk lights and will shim the bumper brackets to get rid of an annoying sag towards the wheel arch on each side.
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[toomanyparts]

Moving along. Driver's seat is starting to look bad. I found a nice passenger seat cheap, so after 200+ miles, I stripped it all down and will be installing with a new seat belt. I think it cleaned up nice.

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Car is almost how I want it.

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[toomanyparts]

Exhaust was free, but a little rust. Spent forever removing as much as possible and painted with POR15. Looks like tin foil going on, dries to a semi-flat silver. If you look at the pipes ahead of the mufflers you can see the paint before it has dried. Good enough for me.

Exhaust Bruh.jpgRust Exhaust Bruh.jpg

Couple more shots of the car. I went to town with a wheel brush in the engine bay and I probably shed 5 lbs in body shop dust. I will delay interior pics showing the refurbished wood until the new seat covers are in.

Shit Car.jpgShine like a diamond bruh.jpgDetail more bruh.jpg

[toomanyparts]

Wrapping up on my seat project, just need to finish the staples for the sides to the frame this weekend. Foam on this seat is still perfect, so simply used a steam gun to firm it up a bit. Added some felt and reinforcement to the famous "wear to hole" sections of the sides. Overall very happy. Will finally be able to put the new seat back covers, tilt handles and driver's side seat belt that I have been storing for years in the car. Lots of other small items replaced as well.

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Decided to remove all the plastics and strip them for refinishing. Oven cleaner and Purple Power soak to release what is left of the soft touch coating that had mostly turned to goo. Since I got one out, decided to pull the passenger seat to do the reinforcement on the foam mentioned above. No major wear, but I want to keep it that way.

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[toomanyparts]

Spent a few hours cleaning and then refinishing the steering wheel. Tested my efforts on the handbrake first before applying them to a few (mostly invisible) spots on the seats. Wasn't happy with the wheel, so I am redoing it, but this gives you an idea. Prep is not just key, it is the only way it actually works.

Repair 2.jpgHandbrake.jpgWheel.jpg

While the seats were out, I spent a few more hours (yes, hours) vacuuming, spot cleaning and steaming the carpets. To say they were filthy would be an understatement. So much dust from the bodyshop, I wish I had just stripped the entire interior bare. Lesson learned.

Carpet 1.jpgSeats 4.jpg

[olinjohnston]

So much dust from the bodyshop, I wish I had just stripped the entire interior bare.

Or perhaps not left it wide open for a year and a half, especially while sanding it...

[toomanyparts]

Or perhaps not left it wide open for a year and a half, especially while sanding it...

Ugh. I remember now.

[toomanyparts]

Moving along...

Here is how the seat came out. Hope to have it back in by Friday.

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