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Thread: 1995 540i 6 Speed Clutch / Flywheel Options

  1. #51
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    You could pop the rubber inspection plug in rear of block to check for oily mess. Could even pull slave to have a look for oil.
    Up for a beer sometime? I'm in Bridle Trails.

  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Martinator View Post
    You could pop the rubber inspection plug in rear of block to check for oily mess. Could even pull slave to have a look for oil.
    Up for a beer sometime? I'm in Bridle Trails.
    I didn't know this plug existed.
    Sure, I'm in Lake Hills.

  3. #53
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    How was the condition of your flywheel when you got it disassembled? I have to do my clutch sometime soon in the future, and when I looked through the bellhousing my flywheel looked great. But I'm only looking at the other side of the flywheel so....

  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by 762Armo View Post
    I didn't get a response on my thread, so thought I'd ask here.

    I did my clutch about 4-5 month, 5k miles ago, but something went wrong and clutch started slipping a about a month ago. Thinking it might be the fact that I didn't change the flywheel, or that my rear main seal is leaking (though I didn't notice any oil when I was there).
    Getting a new clutch kit, new flywheel, and rear main seal. What else needs to be changed while I'm down there. I would prefer to not do the job a 3rd time.
    I was thinking the same thing as Martin regarding the clutch slave cylinder; good gauge on pulling the rubber bung off and having a look.

    I assume the flywheel you didn't change was the original dual mass wheel? If so, most of the research I had read suggested that the dual mass flywheels were consumable; meaning that they were best replaced with a clutch replacement and not worth resurfacing. This was due to the wear of the additional moving parts of the DMF. Out of curiosity, how many miles are on the flywheel?

    As far as what else to replace, here is my list (remember, I am doing a swap...):

    - Engine rear main seal and carrier gasket
    - Flywheel and flywheel bolts
    - Clutch kit with new bolts (friction disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing)
    - Master and slave cylinders
    - Clutch line hoses
    - Clutch arm pivot pin and spring
    - Transmission seals: input, output, and shift
    - Various shifter linkage parts
    - Transmission mounts
    - Exhaust hardware
    - Drive shaft guibo, hardware, and CSB
    Rick
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  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by TougeM540 View Post
    How was the condition of your flywheel when you got it disassembled? I have to do my clutch sometime soon in the future, and when I looked through the bellhousing my flywheel looked great. But I'm only looking at the other side of the flywheel so....
    Thought it looked good. Had very little play in it.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Bimmerick View Post
    I was thinking the same thing as Martin regarding the clutch slave cylinder; good gauge on pulling the rubber bung off and having a look.

    I assume the flywheel you didn't change was the original dual mass wheel? If so, most of the research I had read suggested that the dual mass flywheels were consumable; meaning that they were best replaced with a clutch replacement and not worth resurfacing. This was due to the wear of the additional moving parts of the DMF. Out of curiosity, how many miles are on the flywheel?

    As far as what else to replace, here is my list (remember, I am doing a swap...):

    - Engine rear main seal and carrier gasket
    - Flywheel and flywheel bolts
    - Clutch kit with new bolts (friction disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing)
    - Master and slave cylinders
    - Clutch line hoses
    - Clutch arm pivot pin and spring
    - Transmission seals: input, output, and shift
    - Various shifter linkage parts
    - Transmission mounts
    - Exhaust hardware
    - Drive shaft guibo, hardware, and CSB
    It is the dual mass, I don't know the mileage on it, none of the receipts showed that it's been changed. I do have 200k on the car, so I can only assume it had to have been done at some point before.

  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by 762Armo View Post
    I didn't get a response on my thread, so thought I'd ask here.

    I did my clutch about 4-5 month, 5k miles ago, but something went wrong and clutch started slipping a about a month ago. Thinking it might be the fact that I didn't change the flywheel, or that my rear main seal is leaking (though I didn't notice any oil when I was there).
    Getting a new clutch kit, new flywheel, and rear main seal. What else needs to be changed while I'm down there. I would prefer to not do the job a 3rd time.
    Yeah flywheel is probably worn, either that or as you said, rear main is leaking. Or off chance your slave cyl is leaking..

    Either way, its gunna require pulling the trans. Itll be a good chance to switch to singlemass so you can resurface in the future. Other then that, you have pretty much all that is needed. You can change clutch fork but if it looks good its not necessary
    "The juice is worth the squeeze"

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  7. #57
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    Hi, I wanted to thank Bimmerick for posting his research on the flywheel/clutch combo. I'm getting my 95 540i 6-speed swap done as we speak and Bimmerick's information saved me a bunch of money. Thanks also to everyone else for chiming in with their experiences and expertise. To the Bellevue guys, there's another manual swap on the eastside, Kirkland.

  8. #58
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    Up for a beer sometime? I'm in Bridle Trails.

  9. #59
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    1995 bmw 540i/6spd
    I have a 1995 e34 540i 6 speed. Not familiar with it to much.. been doing some research. It has a dinan tune, m5 staggered rims and tires. Full Billy boat exhaust. And some other minor upgrades. Anyways! The clutch just went randomly on it the other day. And for the life of me I cannot figure out the cheapest and best clutch/flywheel combo?! Any advice on it in language that I can understand? Lol maybe some links to websites? Well appreciated guys!
    So far I have this https://www.rockauto.com/en/cart

  10. #60
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    It's been a while since this thread has been bumped. Wanted to get some fresh feedback from anyone willing to share.

    I'm looking at doing my clutch/flywheel. I'm at 262K miles now and mines on it way out. I was planning on doing JBR but would like to get more feeback regarding the TTV setup.


  11. #61
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    moroza is offline MORΩN ΛABIA BMW CCA Member
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  12. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by prash View Post
    It's been a while since this thread has been bumped. Wanted to get some fresh feedback from anyone willing to share.

    I'm looking at doing my clutch/flywheel. I'm at 262K miles now and mines on it way out. I was planning on doing JBR but would like to get more feeback regarding the TTV setup.
    I have the 265mm TTV flywheel and stock 265mm Sachs clutch and pressure plate on my e32 740. I haven't driven it yet but should have it on the road in the next week or so. I'll report back with how it performs.


    Quote Originally Posted by moroza View Post
    I know someone working out a solution involving a cheap big Ford clutch. Stay tuned...
    That is interesting! Would this be for the stock flywheel diameter, 240mm, or something custom?

  13. #63
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    TTV flywheel has been good here. I am using the s62 e39 m5 clutch/pressure plate. A sprung clutch would quiet the occasional rattle at idle.

  14. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by prash View Post
    It's been a while since this thread has been bumped. Wanted to get some fresh feedback from anyone willing to share.

    I'm looking at doing my clutch/flywheel. I'm at 262K miles now and mines on it way out. I was planning on doing JBR but would like to get more feeback regarding the TTV setup.
    I ended up going with TTV 265mm flywheel and OEM Clutch Kit a few years ago (you can see my story above).
    I've enjoyed the TTV flywheel. I wished I had gone with the E39 set up for more clutch options, like Martinator.

  15. #65
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    Update: The clutch engagement and feel with the 265mm TTV flywheel and stock clutch and pressure plate is excellent; perfect in my opinion on the m60b40. It's super smooth and linear. No weird 'grabbiness'. However with my particular example of the Getrag 420g, the gear chatter in neutral with the clutch out is absolutely obnoxious. A constant thwack-thwack-thwack-thwack haha. It's really loud even with the windows up and doors closed. It is perfectly quiet when the car is cold and for about 20 minutes into the drive (can't even hear a rattle while kneeling down beside the car), but once it's warmed up it sounds like the gearbox is coming apart. I'm using a 50/50 mix of Redline MT-90 and Redline D4 ATF in my transmission.
    Last edited by m60power; 06-18-2020 at 11:29 PM.

  16. #66
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    moroza is offline MORΩN ΛABIA BMW CCA Member
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    That is why either the clutch or the flywheel (or in the case of some N47 cars, both) must be sprung.

  17. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by moroza View Post
    That is why either the clutch or the flywheel (or in the case of some N47 cars, both) must be sprung.
    Yup! In hindsight, I should have went with the stock dual mass flywheel.

  18. #68
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    Hi Sorry to bump an old thread but I’m having the same issue sourcing a clutch and flywheel for my 540I/6 E34

    It seems like Bimmereck ended up using an E39 M5 clutch and Flywheel on his E34? Did this work, I was under the impression that the output shaft of the E34 540I/6 will not work with the E39 clutch and flywheel.
    88 lachsilber 325is 5spd

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